I really like TouchDRO and did this set up on my V10P because I wanted it be as small and out of the way as possible: https://lensprojects.com/2015/09/27/touchdro-machine-position-digital-readout/
Hi Carey beautifull job till end of your videos i was curiouse what it will be and probably 1 min befor end i catch it :)) beautiful flaut , i am heard lathe but not flaut :))?
Thanks for the reply Roman. I thought I would join and make an initial post to confirm everything is hooked up properly, I will post some photos soon. In the meantime, here's a video that shows what I mostly did with the lathe.?
?
?
?
Thanks again,?
?
Carey
--
Emco V10P new 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have decided to sell the lathe. Anyone interested, or interested in more information please let me know.?
I'm up in Greeley. If you're moving to Colorado you might be interested in the "Colorado Society of Model and Experimental Engineers" (CSMEE). We get together once or twice a year to chat about projects we're working on; the group has a pretty wide range of interests. Shawn Leloup (presidentcsmee@...) is the main contact for that group.
Thanks for the thoughts on pricing.? Where are you in Colorado? We are moving to Broomfield!??
?
Take care,
?
Carey
?
?
--
Emco V10P new 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have decided to sell the lathe. Anyone interested, or interested in more information please let me know.?
Thanks Ryan, ?is another way I spend my time.? And thanks for the price points.?
?
Carey
--
Emco V10P new 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have decided to sell the lathe. Anyone interested, or interested in more information please let me know.?
I over spent a bit due to a bad mill motor and chuck ! So I decided to use :
?
Msure linear mag scales with various displays for the 3 axis I¡¯m looking for ¡
?
Msure is a uk company with very cost effective products , They have 3 main types for lathes and mills ,?
1) First one looks like a calliper without jaws and the read out is small and ends up tucked away a bit fir the Z axis of the lathe, This one worked well on my mini proxxon.
?
2) Second type has a transverse display great for cross slide as the display oriented correctly.
?
3) Type three has a remote display with magnets and features Abs/Inc ¡ This one suits the Z axis of the lathe and comes in up to 600mm travel !
?
So all in 3 scales were ?110 delivered!
?
limitations :
?
Resolution 0.01 mm only (all types)
?
fairly bad accuracy over 300mm or so but workable with caliper checks on your part if it¡¯s long¡. Over 100mm it¡¯s pretty good (within 0.01mm) which for most jobs is good enough..
?
Displays not in one location but the magnetic remote display type is very flexible..
?
No PCD function?
?
So if you¡¯re on a tight budget and sneak up on dimensions I think it¡¯s a good solution and the product vs price is exceptional!!
Thanks for the offer Vedran but I don't think it'll help, What I really need is someone with a V10 with that section in bits who can count the teeth for me. Or as a long shot the parts advertised with the number of teeth listed.
I can scrounge up videos of my metric machine but from what I gather that won't really help you. Let me know if you need them. Regards Vedran On Fri, May 23, 2025 at 10:54?PM Tim D Schomer via groups.io < groups.io> <rototype@... <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Many thanks for the help on this so far... Well, I managed to get both gearboxes stripped down, as anticipated I'll need a couple of new bearings when I reassemble the V10p box but I've either got these (6201) or they're on order (6301). I now have another issue that can't be solved by impact. The outpur gear that connects to the leadscrew - apparently there's a Metric and an Imperial variant. Obviously I have the Metric one, however I need an Imperial one (or at least the number of teeth so I can get one made up. The Metric one has 32 teeth but this feels just a fraction too big to fit and get the bolts in the 'bearing block'* I have. (the gearbox output gear might also be different - they have subtly different part numbers). Basically what I need to know is what the numbers of teeth the little gear on the end of the Norton Gearbox output shaft and the 'Leadscrew Drive Gear (English)* have, once I know what these are I can either buy or make replacements. Tim (Hereford, UK) * that's the description in the parts list On 22/05/2025 01:47, Vedran via groups.io <> wrote: > You need to press the shaft out about 20mm as a unit more or less, and > then take the gears off one by one. On my metric machine, the bearing on > the right side (by the big gear) is a slip fit on the shaft, while the > other one is a press fit. It's therefore best to push from right to > left, and apply pressure on the shaft only (not the whole bearing). Left > hand side bearing gets pushed out of the casting in the process, the > right one stays in the casting. There's no way IMHO to do this in a > bearing friendly way without a press, so best to replace (at least the > left one) on reassembly if you tap the thing out with a hammer. > > I've uploaded two relevant reassembly videos. They are not edited - > sorry - but should give you an idea :) > Just don't go banging on the stuff as I did, I was young(er) and stupid > when I did this... made me cringe when I watched it now :) > <> < <>> > <> < <>> > > Regards > > Vedran > > > On Thu, May 22, 2025 at 2:23?AM roman fox via groups.io < groups.io> < > groups.io <>> <romanfox68@... <mailto:[email protected]> <mailto:[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>> > wrote: > >? ? ?Hi Tim could you send some photo ? Hmm i was look in spare part list >? ? ?and is nothing what should hold this shaft in ,similar problem on >? ? ?bought side when you try take off ? Ok the shaft can go out only on >? ? ?leadscrew side at least on left side smallest one can pass bearing >? ? ?hole in body ,it is interesting- bearings has not lock rings , check >? ? ?up all gears are freely move during you try take off shaft also i >? ? ?would try move out bearing on quadrand side from inside out if you >? ? ?have acces ,time to time also can have shaft on ends smole mashrum >? ? ?when you try nock in ,let us know if and what help to take out it >? ? ?regards Roman >? ? ?---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- >? ? ?Od: Tim D Schomer <rototype@... <mailto:rototype@...> >? ? ?<mailto:rototype@... <mailto:rototype@...>>> >? ? ?Komu: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> <mailto:[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> >? ? ?Datum: 21. 5. 2025 19:49:16 >? ? ?P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] Norton box Strip/Rebuild > >? ? ? ? ?Ahoj v?ichni, >? ? ? ? ?Je ?as za?¨ªt pracovat na Blue V10, abych ji mohl p?ipravit k >? ? ? ? ?prodeji (pot?ebuji m¨ªsto) a pot?ebuji vym¨§nit vnit?ky >? ? ? ? ?Nortonov?ch box?. >? ? ? ? ?Pokud si pamatujete, p?ed p¨¢r lety jsem si po?¨ªdil V10P ve velmi >? ? ? ? ?p¨§kn¨¦m stavu, to byl Imperial. Zat¨ªmco jsem ho ?istil a >? ? ? ? ?p?elakoval, vym¨§nil jsem ho za metrick? s pou?it¨ªm n¨§kter?ch >? ? ? ? ?d¨ªl? z modr¨¦ V10. Poda?ilo se mi sehnat metrickou Nortonovou >? ? ? ? ?p?evodovku V10p, co? mi to usnadnilo, ale te? mus¨ªm p?estav¨§t >? ? ? ? ?V10 na Imperial (proto?e ostatn¨ª d¨ªly v metrick?ch soustav¨¢ch >? ? ? ? ?nem¨¢m) a bez pomoci n¨¢hradn¨ª Nortonov¨¦ p?evodovky Imperial V10 >? ? ? ? ?mus¨ªm vyndat ozuben¨¢ kola z Imperial V10p Norton a vym¨§nit je za >? ? ? ? ?metrickou V10 Norton. (Doufejme, ?e to nakonec p?inese i >? ? ? ? ?n¨¢hradn¨ª metrickou p?evodovku V10p, je tu n¨§kdo, kdo by o ni >? ? ? ? ?st¨¢l za slu?nou cenu?) >? ? ? ? ?Zat¨ªm m¨¢m p?evodovku V10 pr¨¢zdnou a u V10p zbyla jen >? ? ? ? ?sedmistup¨¾ov¨¢ osa, ale tu prost¨§ nem??u vyndat. >? ? ? ? ?M¨¢m oba v¨¢lcov¨¦ ?epy vyta?en¨¦ z h?¨ªdele a kdy? na ni poklepu z >? ? ? ? ?obou konc?, h?¨ªdel se trochu pohybuje, ale po asi 2 mm se to >? ? ? ? ?prost¨§ zastav¨ª. Boj¨ªm se, ?e kdy? to ut¨¢hnu p?¨ªli? siln¨§, ³ú±ô´Ç³¾¨ª³¾ >? ? ? ? ?odlitek. >? ? ? ? ?M¨¢te n¨§jak¨¦ n¨¢vrhy, co bych mohl p?ehl¨¦dnout, nebo je to jen >? ? ? ? ?p?¨ªpad tlaku/n¨¢razu a p?¨ªpadn¨§ tepla, aby se to dostalo ven? >? ? ? ? ?Mnohokr¨¢t d¨§kuji >? ? ? ? ?Tim >? ? ? ? ?(Hereford, Spojen¨¦ kr¨¢lovstv¨ª) > >
To add some data points: I purchased a v10p in November 2024 for ~$2K. Another recently sold in my area (Colorado) for the same amount.?
?
When I was looking for a lathe, part of my thought process was "how much it would cost to purchase a new lathe with similar specs?"?
The two other lathes I was looking at in November were the Precision Matthews 10" x 22" (or 10" x 36") and Grizzly 10" x 22" (though they're not exactly equivalent and in many respects I prefer the v10p). Both of those have gone up in price quite a bit in the last couple months and are now ~$4-4.5K once you've paid tax and shipping. Asking more than $2K may be reasonable, especially if it's well equipped and in good condition.
On Fri, May 23, 2025 at 10:54?PM Tim D Schomer via <rototype=[email protected]> wrote:
Many thanks for the help on this so far...
Well, I managed to get both gearboxes stripped down, as anticipated I'll
need a couple of new bearings when I reassemble the V10p box but I've
either got these (6201) or they're on order (6301).
I now have another issue that can't be solved by impact. The outpur gear
that connects to the leadscrew - apparently there's a Metric and an
Imperial variant. Obviously I have the Metric one, however I need an
Imperial one (or at least the number of teeth so I can get one made up.
The Metric one has 32 teeth but this feels just a fraction too big to
fit and get the bolts in the 'bearing block'* I have. (the gearbox
output gear might also be different - they have subtly different part
numbers).
Basically what I need to know is what the numbers of teeth the little
gear on the end of the Norton Gearbox output shaft and the 'Leadscrew
Drive Gear (English)* have, once I know what these are I can either buy
or make replacements.
Tim
(Hereford, UK)
* that's the description in the parts list
On 22/05/2025 01:47, Vedran via wrote:
> You need to press the shaft out about 20mm as a unit more or less, and
> then take the gears off one by one. On my metric machine, the bearing on
> the right side (by the big gear) is a slip fit on the shaft, while the
> other one is a press fit. It's therefore best to push from right to
> left, and apply pressure on the shaft only (not the whole bearing). Left
> hand side bearing gets pushed out of the casting in the process, the
> right one stays in the casting. There's no way IMHO to do this in a
> bearing friendly way without a press, so best to replace (at least the
> left one) on reassembly if you tap the thing out with a hammer.
>
> I've uploaded two relevant reassembly videos. They are not edited -
> sorry - but should give you an idea :)
> Just don't go banging on the stuff as I did, I was young(er) and stupid
> when I did this... made me cringe when I watched it now :)
> <>
> <>
>
> Regards
>
> Vedran
>
>
> On Thu, May 22, 2025 at 2:23?AM roman fox via <http://
> > <romanfox68=[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
> wrote:
>
>? ? ?Hi Tim could you send some photo ? Hmm i was look in spare part list
>? ? ?and is nothing what should hold this shaft in ,similar problem on
>? ? ?bought side when you try take off ? Ok the shaft can go out only on
>? ? ?leadscrew side at least on left side smallest one can pass bearing
>? ? ?hole in body ,it is interesting- bearings has not lock rings , check
>? ? ?up all gears are freely move during you try take off shaft also i
>? ? ?would try move out bearing on quadrand side from inside out if you
>? ? ?have acces ,time to time also can have shaft on ends smole mashrum
>? ? ?when you try nock in ,let us know if and what help to take out it
>? ? ?regards Roman
>? ? ?---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------
>? ? ?Od: Tim D Schomer <rototype@...
>? ? ?<mailto:rototype@...>>
>? ? ?Komu: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
>? ? ?Datum: 21. 5. 2025 19:49:16
>? ? ?P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] Norton box Strip/Rebuild
>
>? ? ? ? ?Ahoj v?ichni,
>? ? ? ? ?Je ?as za?¨ªt pracovat na Blue V10, abych ji mohl p?ipravit k
>? ? ? ? ?prodeji (pot?ebuji m¨ªsto) a pot?ebuji vym¨§nit vnit?ky
>? ? ? ? ?Nortonov?ch box?.
>? ? ? ? ?Pokud si pamatujete, p?ed p¨¢r lety jsem si po?¨ªdil V10P ve velmi
>? ? ? ? ?p¨§kn¨¦m stavu, to byl Imperial. Zat¨ªmco jsem ho ?istil a
>? ? ? ? ?p?elakoval, vym¨§nil jsem ho za metrick? s pou?it¨ªm n¨§kter?ch
>? ? ? ? ?d¨ªl? z modr¨¦ V10. Poda?ilo se mi sehnat metrickou Nortonovou
>? ? ? ? ?p?evodovku V10p, co? mi to usnadnilo, ale te? mus¨ªm p?estav¨§t
>? ? ? ? ?V10 na Imperial (proto?e ostatn¨ª d¨ªly v metrick?ch soustav¨¢ch
>? ? ? ? ?nem¨¢m) a bez pomoci n¨¢hradn¨ª Nortonov¨¦ p?evodovky Imperial V10
>? ? ? ? ?mus¨ªm vyndat ozuben¨¢ kola z Imperial V10p Norton a vym¨§nit je za
>? ? ? ? ?metrickou V10 Norton. (Doufejme, ?e to nakonec p?inese i
>? ? ? ? ?n¨¢hradn¨ª metrickou p?evodovku V10p, je tu n¨§kdo, kdo by o ni
>? ? ? ? ?st¨¢l za slu?nou cenu?)
>? ? ? ? ?Zat¨ªm m¨¢m p?evodovku V10 pr¨¢zdnou a u V10p zbyla jen
>? ? ? ? ?sedmistup¨¾ov¨¢ osa, ale tu prost¨§ nem??u vyndat.
>? ? ? ? ?M¨¢m oba v¨¢lcov¨¦ ?epy vyta?en¨¦ z h?¨ªdele a kdy? na ni poklepu z
>? ? ? ? ?obou konc?, h?¨ªdel se trochu pohybuje, ale po asi 2 mm se to
>? ? ? ? ?prost¨§ zastav¨ª. Boj¨ªm se, ?e kdy? to ut¨¢hnu p?¨ªli? siln¨§, ³ú±ô´Ç³¾¨ª³¾
>? ? ? ? ?odlitek.
>? ? ? ? ?M¨¢te n¨§jak¨¦ n¨¢vrhy, co bych mohl p?ehl¨¦dnout, nebo je to jen
>? ? ? ? ?p?¨ªpad tlaku/n¨¢razu a p?¨ªpadn¨§ tepla, aby se to dostalo ven?
>? ? ? ? ?Mnohokr¨¢t d¨§kuji
>? ? ? ? ?Tim
>? ? ? ? ?(Hereford, Spojen¨¦ kr¨¢lovstv¨ª)
>
>
Well, I managed to get both gearboxes stripped down, as anticipated I'll need a couple of new bearings when I reassemble the V10p box but I've either got these (6201) or they're on order (6301).
I now have another issue that can't be solved by impact. The outpur gear that connects to the leadscrew - apparently there's a Metric and an Imperial variant. Obviously I have the Metric one, however I need an Imperial one (or at least the number of teeth so I can get one made up. The Metric one has 32 teeth but this feels just a fraction too big to fit and get the bolts in the 'bearing block'* I have. (the gearbox output gear might also be different - they have subtly different part numbers).
Basically what I need to know is what the numbers of teeth the little gear on the end of the Norton Gearbox output shaft and the 'Leadscrew Drive Gear (English)* have, once I know what these are I can either buy or make replacements.
You need to press the shaft out about 20mm as a unit more or less, and then take the gears off one by one. On my metric machine, the bearing on the right side (by the big gear) is a slip fit on the shaft, while the other one is a press fit. It's therefore best to push from right to left, and apply pressure on the shaft only (not the whole bearing). Left hand side bearing gets pushed out of the casting in the process, the right one stays in the casting. There's no way IMHO to do this in a bearing friendly way without a press, so best to replace (at least the left one) on reassembly if you tap the thing out with a hammer. I've uploaded two relevant reassembly videos. They are not edited - sorry - but should give you an idea :) Just don't go banging on the stuff as I did, I was young(er) and stupid when I did this... made me cringe when I watched it now :) <> <> Regards Vedran On Thu, May 22, 2025 at 2:23?AM roman fox via groups.io < groups.io> <romanfox68@... <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Hi Tim could you send some photo ? Hmm i was look in spare part list and is nothing what should hold this shaft in ,similar problem on bought side when you try take off ? Ok the shaft can go out only on leadscrew side at least on left side smallest one can pass bearing hole in body ,it is interesting- bearings has not lock rings , check up all gears are freely move during you try take off shaft also i would try move out bearing on quadrand side from inside out if you have acces ,time to time also can have shaft on ends smole mashrum when you try nock in ,let us know if and what help to take out it regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Tim D Schomer <rototype@... <mailto:rototype@...>> Komu: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> Datum: 21. 5. 2025 19:49:16 P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] Norton box Strip/Rebuild Ahoj v?ichni, Je ?as za?¨ªt pracovat na Blue V10, abych ji mohl p?ipravit k prodeji (pot?ebuji m¨ªsto) a pot?ebuji vym¨§nit vnit?ky Nortonov?ch box?. Pokud si pamatujete, p?ed p¨¢r lety jsem si po?¨ªdil V10P ve velmi p¨§kn¨¦m stavu, to byl Imperial. Zat¨ªmco jsem ho ?istil a p?elakoval, vym¨§nil jsem ho za metrick? s pou?it¨ªm n¨§kter?ch d¨ªl? z modr¨¦ V10. Poda?ilo se mi sehnat metrickou Nortonovou p?evodovku V10p, co? mi to usnadnilo, ale te? mus¨ªm p?estav¨§t V10 na Imperial (proto?e ostatn¨ª d¨ªly v metrick?ch soustav¨¢ch nem¨¢m) a bez pomoci n¨¢hradn¨ª Nortonov¨¦ p?evodovky Imperial V10 mus¨ªm vyndat ozuben¨¢ kola z Imperial V10p Norton a vym¨§nit je za metrickou V10 Norton. (Doufejme, ?e to nakonec p?inese i n¨¢hradn¨ª metrickou p?evodovku V10p, je tu n¨§kdo, kdo by o ni st¨¢l za slu?nou cenu?) Zat¨ªm m¨¢m p?evodovku V10 pr¨¢zdnou a u V10p zbyla jen sedmistup¨¾ov¨¢ osa, ale tu prost¨§ nem??u vyndat. M¨¢m oba v¨¢lcov¨¦ ?epy vyta?en¨¦ z h?¨ªdele a kdy? na ni poklepu z obou konc?, h?¨ªdel se trochu pohybuje, ale po asi 2 mm se to prost¨§ zastav¨ª. Boj¨ªm se, ?e kdy? to ut¨¢hnu p?¨ªli? siln¨§, ³ú±ô´Ç³¾¨ª³¾ odlitek. M¨¢te n¨§jak¨¦ n¨¢vrhy, co bych mohl p?ehl¨¦dnout, nebo je to jen p?¨ªpad tlaku/n¨¢razu a p?¨ªpadn¨§ tepla, aby se to dostalo ven? Mnohokr¨¢t d¨§kuji Tim (Hereford, Spojen¨¦ kr¨¢lovstv¨ª)
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of teamricky.m via groups.io Sent: Friday, May 23, 2025 10:10 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] New Chat: Head stock alignments #chat-notice
?
Hi Carvel,
?
I did use a very good micrometer to check the diameter in a few spots along its length, I did remember I used it to set up the mill spindle and it measured evenly with that first test by and large , I think I was chasing a bit on the lathe spindle due to dirt in the taper ¡. It wasn¡¯t great !
?
What I did not do on the mill spindle was to spin it for run out at the end of the bar from memory so that needs a go over :)
?
So spoiler the lathe is fixed now and set up !
?
What I had to do was take off the motor, Access the head stock bolts and grub screws and have at it ¡?
It was miles out! The grub screws audibly clicked when the tension was released, It took around 10 small adjustments-checking with the bar and dti each time..
?
I got the left to right or in and out depending to within 3 microns at the end of the test bar , Well happy with that, The vertical plane is not perfect around 4 times that but I decided not to shim anything just yet-set up the tail stock and get to testing what I have.
?
The conclusion after taking a cut along a 10mm bar approximately 75mm long (with several spring passes) gave an error of 5 microns but interestingly not a taper but a very slight wave so the bed wear is influencing the cut very slightly! But the accuracy now is very much ok and manageable if maximum accuracy is needed.
?
I personally would use tail support as often as possible so I would be able to get slightly better results again, All in I think I¡¯m set once the mill motor is returned to be re-fitted !
I did use a very good micrometer to check the diameter in a few spots along its length, I did remember I used it to set up the mill spindle and it measured evenly with that first test by and large , I think I was chasing a bit on the lathe spindle due to dirt in the taper ¡. It wasn¡¯t great !
?
What I did not do on the mill spindle was to spin it for run out at the end of the bar from memory so that needs a go over :)
?
So spoiler the lathe is fixed now and set up !
?
What I had to do was take off the motor, Access the head stock bolts and grub screws and have at it ¡?
It was miles out! The grub screws audibly clicked when the tension was released, It took around 10 small adjustments-checking with the bar and dti each time..
?
I got the left to right or in and out depending to within 3 microns at the end of the test bar , Well happy with that, The vertical plane is not perfect around 4 times that but I decided not to shim anything just yet-set up the tail stock and get to testing what I have.
?
The conclusion after taking a cut along a 10mm bar approximately 75mm long (with several spring passes) gave an error of 5 microns but interestingly not a taper but a very slight wave so the bed wear is influencing the cut very slightly! But the accuracy now is very much ok and manageable if maximum accuracy is needed.
?
I personally would use tail support as often as possible so I would be able to get slightly better results again, All in I think I¡¯m set once the mill motor is returned to be re-fitted !
Not sure what test bar you are using but saying that you hand lapped it suggests it is not a commercial test bar
The fact that it runs true on its end doesn¡¯t mean that the bar itself is not tapered
To get a referenceable starting point I would suggest you get a commercially available ground MT-3 test bar and dial that from left to right horizontally and vertically to get an idea of where we are? . .?
The bar will also be useful for future setups and checking so a worthwhile investment
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of teamricky.m via groups.io Sent: Friday, May 23, 2025 3:58 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] New Chat: Head stock alignments #chat-notice
?
Hi,
?
I¡¯m using a test bar in the head stock taper¡.
?
I have polished the inside of the spindle and removed any traces of dirt, Then I removed the run out at the far end of the bar by hand lapping the test bar off of the machine being careful to mark the high spots with dye!
?
I then carried on until I had .001mm - .002 run out at the long end - so I know the bar is good?
?
Then using the carriage with the dti trammed the bar and found the error !!
0.125mm taper over 125mm cut with spring passes¡. I¡¯m ok with how to test but rather than trying to move the headstock without asking seems to be a problem!
?
Im hoping others here have done the set up and could point me in the right direction ;)
I recently bought a v10p from Houston that had the milling attachment and a pretty good selection of tooling. I paid $2000. My only frame of reference going in was a v10 I saw (not p version) with almost no tooling that sold for $2500 on facebook marketplace in my area.
I don't see these listed too often in the U.S. so it's hard to get a good estimate compared to a South Bend or Craftsman, but I would think you could expect something in the 2-3k range if everything is in good condition. That's my guess anyway
On Fri, May 23, 2025 at 8:40?AM Carey via <itmfluter=[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks for the reply Roman. I thought I would join and make an initial post to confirm everything is hooked up properly, I will post some photos soon. In the meantime, here's a video that shows what I mostly did with the lathe.?
?
?
?
Thanks again,?
?
Carey
--
Emco V10P new 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have decided to sell the lathe. Anyone interested, or interested in more information please let me know.?
This subject has been posted on previously. Often, resulting taper is caused by other factors rather than head-stock alignment. Did you put an indicator at tool height (after cutting) to check that your piece runs true when turning the spindle, and then stroke along the length of your part to verify the indicator run-out is zero? This is always the first thing to do when you have unexpected taper on a lathe part.
?
If you did this, and the indicator actually does run zero, then you should search the forum for "alignment" to learn more. Honestly though, that is quite a short piece to be seeing so much taper, or to use as a check mandrel for any alignment comparison.
I know I will be measuring bed wear as I sweep across the test bar but at this stage it seems a stable decline across the bar with no sudden jumps near the chuck end :)
Joe Thomas
Carey
Tim D Schomer
ImWolf