Markings mean different things on your dial and on the calculator.?
Calculator simply marks positions 1 through 6 at 360/6=60¡ã apart. It then lists which of those positions you can use for which pitch.
On the dial (and more importantly the Emco list)
markings
are organized differently
1 is 360¡ã, one full rotation between
engagements
1, 2 (engage on either) is 180¡ã so only half rotation between engagements
1, 3
(engage on either)
is 120¡ã? -> 1/3 rotation between
1, 2, 4
(engage on either)
is 90¡ã-> 1/4 rotation between
Note there is no just 2 or 2, 3 or 1, 3, 4 etc. as those combinations don't make sense, just as 1,2,5 wouldn't make sense in the calculator because they would produce uneven intervals.
If they had space on the dial, 1 would have 3 markings
1
2
3
4
2 would have 2 markings
2
4
Then the table would only say stop on each 2 or stop on each 4 etc.
In other words , these would then represent in how many sections a full revolution is divided.
Long story short, you have to make a translation table to get from one to another, and to do that you
first
have to realize Emco actually has 12 divisions but not all of them are shown. This is because you have both 1/3 and 1/4 circle divisions and you have to include both, so you have to go to 1/12 or 12 divisions in the calculator convention. Also note the calculator doesn't actually list the positions Emco omitted so you're good there. Here's a picture to make it a bit more clear.
Having run the calc for 6mm leadscrew
and for the 3mm
It quickly becomes obvious why S11 has 3 gears, but your V13 only needs 2 - with a finer leadscrew you need 16T gear to cut 0.8, 4 and 8mm pitches, but on the coarser V13 leadscrew you only need 16T gear for 8mm pitch which they probably concluded you don't need anyway.
NOTE, however that 3mm calculator doesn't completely agree with Emco table, for instance, calculator claims 0.4 can be cut with 14T gear, while Emco table says you have to use 16T. One of them must be wrong but I don't know which one. Thread carefully - pun intended :)
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025 at 9:20?PM manolis sikalhs via <manolhs_sikalhs=[email protected]> wrote:
I tried to work with this specific program ? to generate a small table, but what confused me in the process is the part where you declare how many lines the dial has. The division of the lines when I choose 6 lines is not the same as mine
Hi Ryan ,thank you for info ,today i was ask one company which sale tufnol what glue should be use for bound with steel and they say "epoxy 1200 ". i will try make original gears from tufnol ,in this moment i have just material and i have to find somebody who will make it for me, or i have to make some jig and try make it my self ,? it is still long way?:-D
I used CA glue (aka super glue). One thing I will say about the original gears, when I was pressing them off of the splines it took a decent amount of force before I felt a pop,
which I took as the glue breaking, and then they slid off quite easily. I'm thinking the originals had something much stronger than super glue.
Only time will tell how well this whole experiment will work, only way to find out though is to go use the lathe some more and see what happens ?
I will keep you all posted.
Ryan
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 12:24?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Rey, thanks for sharing your work on the gears, the gears look really good, I would like to ask you what kind of glue did you use to stick them to the original spline center? I am curious how the gears will behave under load, chipping, or fatigue from friction with a metal wheel and working in oil, I would see that as the second phase of this experiment, I will definitely keep my fingers crossed that everything works as it should. Best regards, Roman . ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 29. 3. 2025 21:24:14 P?edm¨§t: Re: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Update time - the gears have been printed, lathe reassembled, and so far so good. After several weeks of not being able to use the lathe, it is finally back in good running order, this time with all of its speeds available.
With the enclosure, filament dehydrator, PEI sheets, larger nozzle, rain dance and a little prayer, I've finally got things printing good enough for the job.
There's still a bit of gunk that forms on the inner ring, which is unsightly, but that can be scraped off. The parts that I really care about for accuracy and smoothness, the teeth, seem to be all good. So at this point I decided to send it.
Everything pressed on very cleanly. I put a ring of CA glue around it just because, but it really does not feel like this is coming off (famous last words perhaps).
Final products here.
It's been a long saga, but if you missed the beginning, I actually have a
brand new 56 tooth gear to put in the lathe, so I didn't need to print a
replacement. This new one was invaluable however for determining proper dimensions. As far as I can tell there is just a bit of profile shift on these gears. Both of my gears were printed with a profile shift of 0.4 which gets me very very close to the dimensions of my originals.
It seems I've hit the limit for photo attachment size here, I'll send a few more in a followup
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 6:32?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
Trouble with silica gel based units is you still have to have a way to dry silica gel :) Depending on whether it has moisture indicator and what chemistry it's based on, some are supposedly safe to put in the oven, while others are not. I wouldn't put either one in the oven I use for food :)
I print PLA as-is and never had any serious issues re moisture, though I see people documenting their woes from time to time. I went through 2-3 spools of PLA I bought from some random guy who kept it in a garage (price was phenomenal). Since I didn't care I stuck it in my (decidedly huimid) garage. When I finally came to them (at that point 4-5 years old filament) it printed like a champ and these were open spools, no bag, no desiccant, nothing. I do notice however that old PLA spools I have (5y+)? tend to get super brittle. Think just short of almost uncooked spaghetti brittle. They print fine if they don't snap in the reverse bowden tube.
Regards
Vedran
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 3:14?PM Doug White via <gwhite=[email protected]> wrote:
I use a food dehydrator to dry out my filament & desiccant packs.? The BEST thing I've come across is the Stacker F-Box:
?
?
This allows you to keep your filament dry ON the printer.? Depending on how crazy life it, I can take a month or two to go through a roll of filament.? If it sat open on the printer, even with PLA, I would get lousy print quality by the end.? Nylon would probably go to hell a lot faster.? I have some small hygrometers from Amazon and a 3D printed bracket that goes inside:??
?
?
I've had a spool of PLA on the printer for a month, and it's still at 14% humidity.? Admittedly, it's winter, but I've seen similar results when the dehumidifier in my shop runs around 40%.
?
I can also take a filament roll off the printer and swap it out, dry box and all, and leave it in the F-Box.? It makes changing partial rolls of filament much easier
?
There are two catches:? 1) They aren't cheap (my wife is always looking for gift ideas, and is delighted to help me in this regard), and 2) Stacker no longer sells them.
?
Apparently, Stacker sold the product line to Printed Solid, and they should have received their first shipment of parts about now.? I sent PS an email, and they said they expect them to be available again around the end of April.
I tried to work with this specific program ? to generate a small table, but what confused me in the process is the part where you declare how many lines the dial has. The division of the lines when I choose 6 lines is not the same as mine
If you have the dial indicator at least similar to the one I posted, then you'll need to multiply/divide the numbers by two but in general it should work. If you have a single gear thread dial than you won't be able to cut most of the pitches. Also check
how many teeth your gear has, if it's not 14,15 and 16T you'll also have some conversion factor to apply. You should pick one of the more convoluted combinations and try what you get
Regards
Vedran
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 10:25?PM cwlathes via
<carvelw=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi
Manolis (?)
Trying to figure out what¡¯s what with the thread dial indicator for a V13 according to the manual
Did you get the indicator with the lathe or add it afterwards ?
Can you maybe take a picture of it for us ?
Many thanks
Carvel
?
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of manolis sikalhs via Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2025 6:18 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Emco maximat v 13 thread dial indicator chart
If you have the dial indicator at least similar to the one I posted, then you'll need to multiply/divide the numbers by two but in general it should work. If you have a single gear thread dial than you won't be able to cut most of the pitches. Also check how many teeth your gear has, if it's not 14,15 and 16T you'll also have some conversion factor to apply. You should pick one of the more convoluted combinations and try what you get
Regards
Vedran
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 10:25?PM cwlathes via <carvelw=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Manolis (?)
Trying to figure out what¡¯s what with the thread dial indicator for a V13 according to the manual
Did you get the indicator with the lathe or add it afterwards ?
Can you maybe take a picture of it for us ?
Many thanks
Carvel
?
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of manolis sikalhs via Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2025 6:18 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Emco maximat v 13 thread dial indicator chart
If you have the dial indicator at least similar to the one I posted, then you'll need to multiply/divide the numbers by two but in general it should work. If you have a single gear thread dial than you won't be able to cut most of the pitches. Also check how many teeth your gear has, if it's not 14,15 and 16T you'll also have some conversion factor to apply. You should pick one of the more convoluted combinations and try what you get
I used CA glue (aka super glue). One thing I will say about the original gears, when I was pressing them off of the splines it took a decent amount of force before I felt a pop,
which I took as the glue breaking, and then they slid off quite easily. I'm thinking the originals had something much stronger than super glue.
Only time will tell how well this whole experiment will work, only way to find out though is to go use the lathe some more and see what happens ?
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 12:24?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Rey, thanks for sharing your work on the gears, the gears look really good, I would like to ask you what kind of glue did you use to stick them to the original spline center? I am curious how the gears will behave under load, chipping, or fatigue from friction with a metal wheel and working in oil, I would see that as the second phase of this experiment, I will definitely keep my fingers crossed that everything works as it should. Best regards, Roman . ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 29. 3. 2025 21:24:14 P?edm¨§t: Re: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Update time - the gears have been printed, lathe reassembled, and so far so good. After several weeks of not being able to use the lathe, it is finally back in good running order, this time with all of its speeds available.
With the enclosure, filament dehydrator, PEI sheets, larger nozzle, rain dance and a little prayer, I've finally got things printing good enough for the job.
There's still a bit of gunk that forms on the inner ring, which is unsightly, but that can be scraped off. The parts that I really care about for accuracy and smoothness, the teeth, seem to be all good. So at this point I decided to send it.
Everything pressed on very cleanly. I put a ring of CA glue around it just because, but it really does not feel like this is coming off (famous last words perhaps).
Final products here.
It's been a long saga, but if you missed the beginning, I actually have a
brand new 56 tooth gear to put in the lathe, so I didn't need to print a
replacement. This new one was invaluable however for determining proper dimensions. As far as I can tell there is just a bit of profile shift on these gears. Both of my gears were printed with a profile shift of 0.4 which gets me very very close to the dimensions of my originals.
It seems I've hit the limit for photo attachment size here, I'll send a few more in a followup
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 6:32?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
Trouble with silica gel based units is you still have to have a way to dry silica gel :) Depending on whether it has moisture indicator and what chemistry it's based on, some are supposedly safe to put in the oven, while others are not. I wouldn't put either one in the oven I use for food :)
I print PLA as-is and never had any serious issues re moisture, though I see people documenting their woes from time to time. I went through 2-3 spools of PLA I bought from some random guy who kept it in a garage (price was phenomenal). Since I didn't care I stuck it in my (decidedly huimid) garage. When I finally came to them (at that point 4-5 years old filament) it printed like a champ and these were open spools, no bag, no desiccant, nothing. I do notice however that old PLA spools I have (5y+)? tend to get super brittle. Think just short of almost uncooked spaghetti brittle. They print fine if they don't snap in the reverse bowden tube.
Regards
Vedran
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 3:14?PM Doug White via <gwhite=[email protected]> wrote:
I use a food dehydrator to dry out my filament & desiccant packs.? The BEST thing I've come across is the Stacker F-Box:
?
?
This allows you to keep your filament dry ON the printer.? Depending on how crazy life it, I can take a month or two to go through a roll of filament.? If it sat open on the printer, even with PLA, I would get lousy print quality by the end.? Nylon would probably go to hell a lot faster.? I have some small hygrometers from Amazon and a 3D printed bracket that goes inside:??
?
?
I've had a spool of PLA on the printer for a month, and it's still at 14% humidity.? Admittedly, it's winter, but I've seen similar results when the dehumidifier in my shop runs around 40%.
?
I can also take a filament roll off the printer and swap it out, dry box and all, and leave it in the F-Box.? It makes changing partial rolls of filament much easier
?
There are two catches:? 1) They aren't cheap (my wife is always looking for gift ideas, and is delighted to help me in this regard), and 2) Stacker no longer sells them.
?
Apparently, Stacker sold the product line to Printed Solid, and they should have received their first shipment of parts about now.? I sent PS an email, and they said they expect them to be available again around the end of April.
I am not familiar with the V13 so maybe one of our members who has one can help
I have a couple of spares lists for it? . .? the one doesn¡¯t show the thread dial indicator at all , while the other only shows one with a single gear
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Vedran via groups.io Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2025 2:44 AM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Emco maximat v 13 thread dial indicator chart
?
dunno about v13but this is the one for s11
if your leadscrew has the same 3mm pitch and your dial has 14, 15 and 16T gears than this should work
?
good luck
?
Regards
?
Vedran
?
?
On Sat, Mar 29, 2025 at 5:44?PM manolis sikalhs via <manolhs_sikalhs=[email protected]> wrote:
Hello. I have in my possession an EMCO Maximat V13 lathe and I have the original thread dial indicator. My lathe is metric, and I do not have the small chart for the thread dial indicator. Does anyone have this specific chart and could provide it to me?
Hi Rey, thanks for sharing your work on the gears, the gears look really good, I would like to ask you what kind of glue did you use to stick them to the original spline center? I am curious how the gears will behave under load, chipping, or fatigue from friction with a metal wheel and working in oil, I would see that as the second phase of this experiment, I will definitely keep my fingers crossed that everything works as it should. Best regards, Roman .
Update time - the gears have been printed, lathe reassembled, and so far so good. After several weeks of not being able to use the lathe, it is finally back in good running order, this time with all of its speeds available.
With the enclosure, filament dehydrator, PEI sheets, larger nozzle, rain dance and a little prayer, I've finally got things printing good enough for the job.
There's still a bit of gunk that forms on the inner ring, which is unsightly, but that can be scraped off. The parts that I really care about for accuracy and smoothness, the teeth, seem to be all good. So at this point I decided to send it.
Everything pressed on very cleanly. I put a ring of CA glue around it just because, but it really does not feel like this is coming off (famous last words perhaps).
Final products here.
It's been a long saga, but if you missed the beginning, I actually have a
brand new 56 tooth gear to put in the lathe, so I didn't need to print a
replacement. This new one was invaluable however for determining proper dimensions. As far as I can tell there is just a bit of profile shift on these gears. Both of my gears were printed with a profile shift of 0.4 which gets me very very close to the dimensions of my originals.
It seems I've hit the limit for photo attachment size here, I'll send a few more in a followup
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 6:32?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
Trouble with silica gel based units is you still have to have a way to dry silica gel :) Depending on whether it has moisture indicator and what chemistry it's based on, some are supposedly safe to put in the oven, while others are not. I wouldn't put either one in the oven I use for food :)
I print PLA as-is and never had any serious issues re moisture, though I see people documenting their woes from time to time. I went through 2-3 spools of PLA I bought from some random guy who kept it in a garage (price was phenomenal). Since I didn't care I stuck it in my (decidedly huimid) garage. When I finally came to them (at that point 4-5 years old filament) it printed like a champ and these were open spools, no bag, no desiccant, nothing. I do notice however that old PLA spools I have (5y+)? tend to get super brittle. Think just short of almost uncooked spaghetti brittle. They print fine if they don't snap in the reverse bowden tube.
Regards
Vedran
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 3:14?PM Doug White via <gwhite=[email protected]> wrote:
I use a food dehydrator to dry out my filament & desiccant packs.? The BEST thing I've come across is the Stacker F-Box:
?
?
This allows you to keep your filament dry ON the printer.? Depending on how crazy life it, I can take a month or two to go through a roll of filament.? If it sat open on the printer, even with PLA, I would get lousy print quality by the end.? Nylon would probably go to hell a lot faster.? I have some small hygrometers from Amazon and a 3D printed bracket that goes inside:??
?
?
I've had a spool of PLA on the printer for a month, and it's still at 14% humidity.? Admittedly, it's winter, but I've seen similar results when the dehumidifier in my shop runs around 40%.
?
I can also take a filament roll off the printer and swap it out, dry box and all, and leave it in the F-Box.? It makes changing partial rolls of filament much easier
?
There are two catches:? 1) They aren't cheap (my wife is always looking for gift ideas, and is delighted to help me in this regard), and 2) Stacker no longer sells them.
?
Apparently, Stacker sold the product line to Printed Solid, and they should have received their first shipment of parts about now.? I sent PS an email, and they said they expect them to be available again around the end of April.
On Sat, Mar 29, 2025 at 5:44?PM manolis sikalhs via <manolhs_sikalhs=[email protected]> wrote:
Hello. I have in my possession an EMCO Maximat V13 lathe and I have the original thread dial indicator. My lathe is metric, and I do not have the small chart for the thread dial indicator. Does anyone have this specific chart and could provide it to me?
Seems the last bit of my message got cut off... Not having a good day with all these attachments.
Anyways, moral of the story at this point is that things are working so far, but I'm not ready to claim victory just yet. It's just very nice to have a running lathe again!
On Sat, Mar 29, 2025 at 3:42?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Continuing
?
Gears went into the headstock, it was a bit of an adventure getting everything back together, but in the end, everything worked out. Fit is smooth and everything turns without binding or too much backlash (of course I have nothing to compare to, but still)
?
Brand new oil was added, and I started by running the lathe at each of the gear ratios for 5 or so minutes just to break it in. I'll probably drain and replace soon, no doubt there's a bit of plastic floating around now. But overall, everything seemed to run great.
?
I've done a few cuts just to check. Aluminum was no problem, I took some heavy cuts and some finishing passes and seems fine. I have some half inch steel that I took some reasonably sized roughing cuts at 315 rpm, still going
Gears went into the headstock, it was a bit of an adventure getting everything back together, but in the end, everything worked out. Fit is smooth and everything turns without binding or too much backlash (of course I have nothing to compare to, but still)
?
Brand new oil was added, and I started by running the lathe at each of the gear ratios for 5 or so minutes just to break it in. I'll probably drain and replace soon, no doubt there's a bit of plastic floating around now. But overall, everything seemed to run great.
?
I've done a few cuts just to check. Aluminum was no problem, I took some heavy cuts and some finishing passes and seems fine. I have some half inch steel that I took some reasonably sized roughing cuts at 315 rpm, still going
Update time - the gears have been printed, lathe reassembled, and so far so good. After several weeks of not being able to use the lathe, it is finally back in good running order, this time with all of its speeds available.
With the enclosure, filament dehydrator, PEI sheets, larger nozzle, rain dance and a little prayer, I've finally got things printing good enough for the job.
There's still a bit of gunk that forms on the inner ring, which is unsightly, but that can be scraped off. The parts that I really care about for accuracy and smoothness, the teeth, seem to be all good. So at this point I decided to send it.
Everything pressed on very cleanly. I put a ring of CA glue around it just because, but it really does not feel like this is coming off (famous last words perhaps).
Final products here.
It's been a long saga, but if you missed the beginning, I actually have a
brand new 56 tooth gear to put in the lathe, so I didn't need to print a
replacement. This new one was invaluable however for determining proper dimensions. As far as I can tell there is just a bit of profile shift on these gears. Both of my gears were printed with a profile shift of 0.4 which gets me very very close to the dimensions of my originals.
It seems I've hit the limit for photo attachment size here, I'll send a few more in a followup
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 6:32?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
Trouble with silica gel based units is you still have to have a way to dry silica gel :) Depending on whether it has moisture indicator and what chemistry it's based on, some are supposedly safe to put in the oven, while others are not. I wouldn't put either one in the oven I use for food :)
I print PLA as-is and never had any serious issues re moisture, though I see people documenting their woes from time to time. I went through 2-3 spools of PLA I bought from some random guy who kept it in a garage (price was phenomenal). Since I didn't care I stuck it in my (decidedly huimid) garage. When I finally came to them (at that point 4-5 years old filament) it printed like a champ and these were open spools, no bag, no desiccant, nothing. I do notice however that old PLA spools I have (5y+)? tend to get super brittle. Think just short of almost uncooked spaghetti brittle. They print fine if they don't snap in the reverse bowden tube.
Regards
Vedran
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 3:14?PM Doug White via <gwhite=[email protected]> wrote:
I use a food dehydrator to dry out my filament & desiccant packs.? The BEST thing I've come across is the Stacker F-Box:
?
?
This allows you to keep your filament dry ON the printer.? Depending on how crazy life it, I can take a month or two to go through a roll of filament.? If it sat open on the printer, even with PLA, I would get lousy print quality by the end.? Nylon would probably go to hell a lot faster.? I have some small hygrometers from Amazon and a 3D printed bracket that goes inside:??
?
?
I've had a spool of PLA on the printer for a month, and it's still at 14% humidity.? Admittedly, it's winter, but I've seen similar results when the dehumidifier in my shop runs around 40%.
?
I can also take a filament roll off the printer and swap it out, dry box and all, and leave it in the F-Box.? It makes changing partial rolls of filament much easier
?
There are two catches:? 1) They aren't cheap (my wife is always looking for gift ideas, and is delighted to help me in this regard), and 2) Stacker no longer sells them.
?
Apparently, Stacker sold the product line to Printed Solid, and they should have received their first shipment of parts about now.? I sent PS an email, and they said they expect them to be available again around the end of April.
