Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I use a food dehydrator to dry out my filament & desiccant packs.? The BEST thing I've come across is the Stacker F-Box:
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This allows you to keep your filament dry ON the printer.? Depending on how crazy life it, I can take a month or two to go through a roll of filament.? If it sat open on the printer, even with PLA, I would get lousy print quality by the end.? Nylon would probably go to hell a lot faster.? I have some small hygrometers from Amazon and a 3D printed bracket that goes inside:??
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I've had a spool of PLA on the printer for a month, and it's still at 14% humidity.? Admittedly, it's winter, but I've seen similar results when the dehumidifier in my shop runs around 40%.
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I can also take a filament roll off the printer and swap it out, dry box and all, and leave it in the F-Box.? It makes changing partial rolls of filament much easier
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There are two catches:? 1) They aren't cheap (my wife is always looking for gift ideas, and is delighted to help me in this regard), and 2) Stacker no longer sells them.
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Apparently, Stacker sold the product line to Printed Solid, and they should have received their first shipment of parts about now.? I sent PS an email, and they said they expect them to be available again around the end of April.
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Doug White
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Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Sounds like me, 100%. There is nothing like needing something on Friday after hours. Necessity is the mother of all invention.
Get
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Show quoted text
No question, dedicated dryer is easier to use (some of them are not better though - look for heated units)... it's just I'm cheap and also usually need things on friday night when there's no place to buy them.
Looking at Amazon, I see that a filament dryer is only 65 dollars.
Maybe getting a dedicated drying unit is not such a terrible?idea, unless you have to dry multiple colors at the same time.
Get
Simplest way to do it is to stick the whole role on the printer bed, maybe put it on some sort of standoff so it's not directly on the bed and get it to 50 or so for pla, and I guess 80C for Nylon should be fine. Then let it cook for 5-6 hours. You'll
need an enclosure obviously, but the cardboard box will do fine again.? You'll want a few small holes in the enclosure - some on the bottom some on top - to let the hot wet air from inside get out and fresh be sucked in. Obviously, doing this on a dry day
or in an AC environment will help as general air humidity will be down.
Really wet nylon pops when it prints and the printed surface is rough - both from water bubbling as it gets hot.
A second hand dehydrator from Craig's list or Facebook marketplace should be pretty cheap
Get
All good advice. I think I can maintain the resolution I need with a .6mm nozzle, and the reduction in print time has been a lifesaver. I probably won't go any bigger than that though.
Printing with a raft is one of the next things I'm going to try. Also, it is conspicuous that my first print (sealed and dry from the factory) turned out the best. I put it back in the packaging when I was done, but no idea how much moisture it absorbed
between then and now.
Unfortunately I don't have a filament dryer, and I'm not too keen on drying this stuff in the oven I share with my food... Anyway, a dehydrator may be on the list of upcoming upgrades as well.
Ryan
A cardboard box is a workable enclosure, provided you're around to put out a fire should anything go wrong. Soak the inside before printing, you can blast the thing with a hairdryer to get it up to temp quickly.
You can add as much surface contact as you need, either with a raft or by adding a solid block under your part. Just make sure you have solid layers on the boundary of the final part and turn the rest off in the lathe. Depending on how good your printer
actually is, boring the center hole might not be a bad idea as well.
You'll want to print Nylon bone dry... some say even a few hours in the open will turn it into a mess.
Larger nozzle is gonna decrease your resolution, which might be counterproductive. Normally you can print 0.25mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle without problems.
Also, don't forget the parts shrink somewhat. Depending on your slicer it might be already compensated for, but adding a datum you can measure on the part directly or doing a test piece will let you know for sure.
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 8:57?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to
print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker,
which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that
was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
No question, dedicated dryer is easier to use (some of them are not better though - look for heated units)... it's just I'm cheap and also usually need things on friday night when there's no place to buy them.
Looking at Amazon, I see that a filament dryer is only 65 dollars.
Maybe getting a dedicated drying unit is not such a terrible?idea, unless you have to dry multiple colors at the same time.
Get
Simplest way to do it is to stick the whole role on the printer bed, maybe put it on some sort of standoff so it's not directly on the bed and get it to 50 or so for pla, and I guess 80C for Nylon should be fine. Then let it cook for 5-6 hours. You'll
need an enclosure obviously, but the cardboard box will do fine again.? You'll want a few small holes in the enclosure - some on the bottom some on top - to let the hot wet air from inside get out and fresh be sucked in. Obviously, doing this on a dry day
or in an AC environment will help as general air humidity will be down.
Really wet nylon pops when it prints and the printed surface is rough - both from water bubbling as it gets hot.
A second hand dehydrator from Craig's list or Facebook marketplace should be pretty cheap
Get
All good advice. I think I can maintain the resolution I need with a .6mm nozzle, and the reduction in print time has been a lifesaver. I probably won't go any bigger than that though.
Printing with a raft is one of the next things I'm going to try. Also, it is conspicuous that my first print (sealed and dry from the factory) turned out the best. I put it back in the packaging when I was done, but no idea how much moisture it absorbed
between then and now.
Unfortunately I don't have a filament dryer, and I'm not too keen on drying this stuff in the oven I share with my food... Anyway, a dehydrator may be on the list of upcoming upgrades as well.
Ryan
A cardboard box is a workable enclosure, provided you're around to put out a fire should anything go wrong. Soak the inside before printing, you can blast the thing with a hairdryer to get it up to temp quickly.
You can add as much surface contact as you need, either with a raft or by adding a solid block under your part. Just make sure you have solid layers on the boundary of the final part and turn the rest off in the lathe. Depending on how good your printer
actually is, boring the center hole might not be a bad idea as well.
You'll want to print Nylon bone dry... some say even a few hours in the open will turn it into a mess.
Larger nozzle is gonna decrease your resolution, which might be counterproductive. Normally you can print 0.25mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle without problems.
Also, don't forget the parts shrink somewhat. Depending on your slicer it might be already compensated for, but adding a datum you can measure on the part directly or doing a test piece will let you know for sure.
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 8:57?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to
print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker,
which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that
was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Looking at Amazon, I see that a filament dryer is only 65 dollars.
Maybe getting a dedicated drying unit is not such a terrible?idea, unless you have to dry multiple colors at the same time.
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Simplest way to do it is to stick the whole role on the printer bed, maybe put it on some sort of standoff so it's not directly on the bed and get it to 50 or so for pla, and I guess 80C for Nylon should be fine. Then let it cook for 5-6 hours. You'll
need an enclosure obviously, but the cardboard box will do fine again.? You'll want a few small holes in the enclosure - some on the bottom some on top - to let the hot wet air from inside get out and fresh be sucked in. Obviously, doing this on a dry day
or in an AC environment will help as general air humidity will be down.
Really wet nylon pops when it prints and the printed surface is rough - both from water bubbling as it gets hot.
A second hand dehydrator from Craig's list or Facebook marketplace should be pretty cheap
Get
All good advice. I think I can maintain the resolution I need with a .6mm nozzle, and the reduction in print time has been a lifesaver. I probably won't go any bigger than that though.
Printing with a raft is one of the next things I'm going to try. Also, it is conspicuous that my first print (sealed and dry from the factory) turned out the best. I put it back in the packaging when I was done, but no idea how much moisture it absorbed
between then and now.
Unfortunately I don't have a filament dryer, and I'm not too keen on drying this stuff in the oven I share with my food... Anyway, a dehydrator may be on the list of upcoming upgrades as well.
Ryan
A cardboard box is a workable enclosure, provided you're around to put out a fire should anything go wrong. Soak the inside before printing, you can blast the thing with a hairdryer to get it up to temp quickly.
You can add as much surface contact as you need, either with a raft or by adding a solid block under your part. Just make sure you have solid layers on the boundary of the final part and turn the rest off in the lathe. Depending on how good your printer
actually is, boring the center hole might not be a bad idea as well.
You'll want to print Nylon bone dry... some say even a few hours in the open will turn it into a mess.
Larger nozzle is gonna decrease your resolution, which might be counterproductive. Normally you can print 0.25mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle without problems.
Also, don't forget the parts shrink somewhat. Depending on your slicer it might be already compensated for, but adding a datum you can measure on the part directly or doing a test piece will let you know for sure.
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 8:57?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to
print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker,
which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that
was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Simplest way to do it is to stick the whole role on the printer bed, maybe put it on some sort of standoff so it's not directly on the bed and get it to 50 or so for pla, and I guess 80C for Nylon should be fine. Then let it cook for 5-6 hours. You'll need an enclosure obviously, but the cardboard box will do fine again.?
You'll want a few small holes in the enclosure - some on the bottom some on top - to let the hot wet air from inside get out and fresh be sucked in. Obviously, doing this on a dry day or in an AC environment will help as general air humidity will be down.
Really wet nylon pops when it prints and the printed surface is rough - both from water bubbling as it gets hot.
A second hand dehydrator from Craig's list or Facebook marketplace should be pretty cheap
Get
All good advice. I think I can maintain the resolution I need with a .6mm nozzle, and the reduction in print time has been a lifesaver. I probably won't go any bigger than that though.
Printing with a raft is one of the next things I'm going to try. Also, it is conspicuous that my first print (sealed and dry from the factory) turned out the best. I put it back in the packaging when I was done, but no idea how much moisture it absorbed
between then and now.
Unfortunately I don't have a filament dryer, and I'm not too keen on drying this stuff in the oven I share with my food... Anyway, a dehydrator may be on the list of upcoming upgrades as well.
Ryan
A cardboard box is a workable enclosure, provided you're around to put out a fire should anything go wrong. Soak the inside before printing, you can blast the thing with a hairdryer to get it up to temp quickly.
You can add as much surface contact as you need, either with a raft or by adding a solid block under your part. Just make sure you have solid layers on the boundary of the final part and turn the rest off in the lathe. Depending on how good your printer
actually is, boring the center hole might not be a bad idea as well.
You'll want to print Nylon bone dry... some say even a few hours in the open will turn it into a mess.
Larger nozzle is gonna decrease your resolution, which might be counterproductive. Normally you can print 0.25mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle without problems.
Also, don't forget the parts shrink somewhat. Depending on your slicer it might be already compensated for, but adding a datum you can measure on the part directly or doing a test piece will let you know for sure.
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 8:57?PM Ryan Harmon via
<ryanjharmon1= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to
print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker,
which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that
was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
A second hand dehydrator from Craig's list or Facebook marketplace should be pretty cheap
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
All good advice. I think I can maintain the resolution I need with a .6mm nozzle, and the reduction in print time has been a lifesaver. I probably won't go any bigger than that though.
Printing with a raft is one of the next things I'm going to try. Also, it is conspicuous that my first print (sealed and dry from the factory) turned out the best. I put it back in the packaging when I was done, but no idea how much moisture it absorbed
between then and now.
Unfortunately I don't have a filament dryer, and I'm not too keen on drying this stuff in the oven I share with my food... Anyway, a dehydrator may be on the list of upcoming upgrades as well.
Ryan
A cardboard box is a workable enclosure, provided you're around to put out a fire should anything go wrong. Soak the inside before printing, you can blast the thing with a hairdryer to get it up to temp quickly.
You can add as much surface contact as you need, either with a raft or by adding a solid block under your part. Just make sure you have solid layers on the boundary of the final part and turn the rest off in the lathe. Depending on how good your printer
actually is, boring the center hole might not be a bad idea as well.
You'll want to print Nylon bone dry... some say even a few hours in the open will turn it into a mess.
Larger nozzle is gonna decrease your resolution, which might be counterproductive. Normally you can print 0.25mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle without problems.
Also, don't forget the parts shrink somewhat. Depending on your slicer it might be already compensated for, but adding a datum you can measure on the part directly or doing a test piece will let you know for sure.
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 8:57?PM Ryan Harmon via
<ryanjharmon1= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to
print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker,
which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that
was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
All good advice. I think I can maintain the resolution I need with a .6mm nozzle, and the reduction in print time has been a lifesaver. I probably won't go any bigger than that though.
Printing with a raft is one of the next things I'm going to try. Also, it is conspicuous that my first print (sealed and dry from the factory) turned out the best. I put it back in the packaging when I was done, but no idea how much moisture it absorbed between then and now.
Unfortunately I don't have a filament dryer, and I'm not too keen on drying this stuff in the oven I share with my food... Anyway, a dehydrator may be on the list of upcoming upgrades as well.
Ryan
A cardboard box is a workable enclosure, provided you're around to put out a fire should anything go wrong. Soak the inside before printing, you can blast the thing with a hairdryer to get it up to temp quickly.
You can add as much surface contact as you need, either with a raft or by adding a solid block under your part. Just make sure you have solid layers on the boundary of the final part and turn the rest off in the lathe. Depending on how good your printer actually is, boring the center hole might not be a bad idea as well.
You'll want to print Nylon bone dry... some say even a few hours in the open will turn it into a mess.
Larger nozzle is gonna decrease your resolution, which might be counterproductive. Normally you can print 0.25mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle without problems.
Also, don't forget the parts shrink somewhat. Depending on your slicer it might be already compensated for, but adding a datum you can measure on the part directly or doing a test piece will let you know for sure.
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 8:57?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker, which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: Anyone live in North Florida or South Georgia?
Sorry about my moderator misunderstanding Vedran. That is more impressive to me.?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with this group. It is really appreciated!
Regards, Mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 25, 2025, at 6:26?PM, Vedran via groups.io <vedran.groups@...> wrote:
? Glad to help... not a moderator though. Not angling to become one either :)
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 11:23?PM Michael OConnor via <moconnor329= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you Vedran!
I didn’t know that Keith Rucker was in Tifton, Georgia. Thought he was in the Carolinas. B That is great to know as it is only 75 miles from our place.?
We actually drive through Tifton quite often when we drive to Western NY to visit family. That is where the I-75 interchange is after driving through Georgia backroads.?
Have followed Keith Rucker on YouTube and his Vintage Machinery website is a real treasure.
Adam Booth is a few hours west in Pensacola, Florida. Was hoping to meet him during a Richard King scraping class a few years ago, but it didn’t happen due to COVID.
Vedran, you may be the best Moderator of all time. So knowledgeable in so many areas. You help everyone that you can.?
So much respect for you Sir!
Kind regards, Mike ? Just an idea, you have Keith Rucker of Vintage Machinery fame in Tifton, GA
I know claiming to "know" someone from watching his videos is naive at best, but he seems to be a decent guy and he often has viewers help him in his restoration of old machines. You might want to try contacting him and see where it goes from there. He's certainly close enough to you.
Good luck
Mike,
A few years back I lived in Bradfordville area off US319 and probably would have been close enough to drop by and chat over chips with you, but in 2010 I moved to northeast Georgia. Well Georgia is kinda odd shaped, I’m near the southern northeast corner. I wish I knew of another hobbiest close by.?
Bill Nite V10P
|
Re: Anyone live in North Florida or South Georgia?
Glad to help... not a moderator though. Not angling to become one either :)
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 11:23?PM Michael OConnor via <moconnor329= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you Vedran!
I didn’t know that Keith Rucker was in Tifton, Georgia. Thought he was in the Carolinas. B That is great to know as it is only 75 miles from our place.?
We actually drive through Tifton quite often when we drive to Western NY to visit family. That is where the I-75 interchange is after driving through Georgia backroads.?
Have followed Keith Rucker on YouTube and his Vintage Machinery website is a real treasure.
Adam Booth is a few hours west in Pensacola, Florida. Was hoping to meet him during a Richard King scraping class a few years ago, but it didn’t happen due to COVID.
Vedran, you may be the best Moderator of all time. So knowledgeable in so many areas. You help everyone that you can.?
So much respect for you Sir!
Kind regards, Mike ? Just an idea, you have Keith Rucker of Vintage Machinery fame in Tifton, GA
I know claiming to "know" someone from watching his videos is naive at best, but he seems to be a decent guy and he often has viewers help him in his restoration of old machines. You might want to try contacting him and see where it goes from there. He's certainly close enough to you.
Good luck
Mike,
A few years back I lived in Bradfordville area off US319 and probably would have been close enough to drop by and chat over chips with you, but in 2010 I moved to northeast Georgia. Well Georgia is kinda odd shaped, I’m near the southern northeast corner. I wish I knew of another hobbiest close by.?
Bill Nite V10P
|
Re: Anyone live in North Florida or South Georgia?
Thank you Vedran!
I didn’t know that Keith Rucker was in Tifton, Georgia. Thought he was in the Carolinas. B That is great to know as it is only 75 miles from our place.?
We actually drive through Tifton quite often when we drive to Western NY to visit family. That is where the I-75 interchange is after driving through Georgia backroads.?
Have followed Keith Rucker on YouTube and his Vintage Machinery website is a real treasure.
Adam Booth is a few hours west in Pensacola, Florida. Was hoping to meet him during a Richard King scraping class a few years ago, but it didn’t happen due to COVID.
Vedran, you may be the best Moderator of all time. So knowledgeable in so many areas. You help everyone that you can.?
So much respect for you Sir!
Kind regards, Mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 25, 2025, at 6:02?PM, Vedran via groups.io <vedran.groups@...> wrote:
? Just an idea, you have Keith Rucker of Vintage Machinery fame in Tifton, GA
I know claiming to "know" someone from watching his videos is naive at best, but he seems to be a decent guy and he often has viewers help him in his restoration of old machines. You might want to try contacting him and see where it goes from there. He's certainly close enough to you.
Good luck
Mike,
A few years back I lived in Bradfordville area off US319 and probably would have been close enough to drop by and chat over chips with you, but in 2010 I moved to northeast Georgia. Well Georgia is kinda odd shaped, I’m near the southern northeast corner. I wish I knew of another hobbiest close by.?
Bill Nite V10P
|
Re: Anyone live in North Florida or South Georgia?
Just an idea, you have Keith Rucker of Vintage Machinery fame in Tifton, GA
I know claiming to "know" someone from watching his videos is naive at best, but he seems to be a decent guy and he often has viewers help him in his restoration of old machines. You might want to try contacting him and see where it goes from there. He's certainly close enough to you.
Good luck
Mike,
A few years back I lived in Bradfordville area off US319 and probably would have been close enough to drop by and chat over chips with you, but in 2010 I moved to northeast Georgia. Well Georgia is kinda odd shaped, I’m near the southern northeast corner. I wish I knew of another hobbiest close by.?
Bill Nite V10P
|
Re: Anyone live in North Florida or South Georgia?
Hi Bill,
Yes, we would have been neighbors. That’s interesting.?
Thanks for replying. Seems I am not the only one who would love to find like minded people interested in machining and model engineering.
Regards, Mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 25, 2025, at 3:55?PM, Bill Nite via groups.io <bill431nite@...> wrote:
? Mike,
A few years back I lived in Bradfordville area off US319 and probably would have been close enough to drop by and chat over chips with you, but in 2010 I moved to northeast Georgia. Well Georgia is kinda odd shaped, I’m near the southern northeast corner. I wish I knew of another hobbiest close by.?
Bill Nite V10P
|
Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
A cardboard box is a workable enclosure, provided you're around to put out a fire should anything go wrong. Soak the inside before printing, you can blast the thing with a hairdryer to get it up to temp quickly.
You can add as much surface contact as you need, either with a raft or by adding a solid block under your part. Just make sure you have solid layers on the boundary of the final part and turn the rest off in the lathe. Depending on how good your printer actually is, boring the center hole might not be a bad idea as well.
You'll want to print Nylon bone dry... some say even a few hours in the open will turn it into a mess.
Larger nozzle is gonna decrease your resolution, which might be counterproductive. Normally you can print 0.25mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle without problems.
Also, don't forget the parts shrink somewhat. Depending on your slicer it might be already compensated for, but adding a datum you can measure on the part directly or doing a test piece will let you know for sure.
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 8:57?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker, which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: vfd load reactor suggestions?
I agree with all that Carvel said and would add that sample of 1 (well two in Carl's case) is hardly a representative one. And it works both ways, if say 99% of the motors are known to run for years on VFD without a hitch and you happen to be the owner of the one that packs it up, it's not gonna make a difference to you that the other 99 are fine. As far as I know, there were 3 manufacturers of these motors, in small series over a long time. It's quite possible each unit is completely different in how much VFD (ab)use it can take. Running a VFD adds a bit of risk, but so does running a machine tool at all. You accept it, mitigate it or reject it (by not using a VFD). Unfortunately we don't have good enough data to tell you how big of the risk it actually is. Plan on the contingency where it might be possible your motor burns up. I personally don't think it's a big issue in a hobby shop, but I'm first to point out that my opinion is based more on wishful thinking than on hard data :)
I can recommend adding a surge protection device at the electric panel for whole house protection.?
Put one of these on and if your house or utility power supply cable gets hit by lightning, this will save all your appliances and tools. Immediately after the lightning strike remove and replace the protector as it will likely be used up.
Get
Hi Len
Some VFD’s are noisier than others so you seem to have made a fortunate choice
It also depends on the motor’s history
The Emco motor tends to run hot so if it was previously in an environment where it was used a lot , then the insulation might also have suffered over time and be more prone to VFD or other spike damage
Lightning is also a hazard so not a good idea to use your machines in a storm?
. .? also unplug them when not in use if in a lightning prone area like the one I live in
? ?
Regards,
Carvel
?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Len Sherman via
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2025 5:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] vfd load reactor suggestions?
?
Maybe I've been living dangerously, but I've run that same motor (on a VP10) from a VFD with no load filter for 10 years with no hint of a problem. I also have a VFD on an old BP clone mill of similar age, also with no issues.
|
Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker, which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: Anyone live in North Florida or South Georgia?
Mike,
A few years back I lived in Bradfordville area off US319 and probably would have been close enough to drop by and chat over chips with you, but in 2010 I moved to northeast Georgia. Well Georgia is kinda odd shaped, I’m near the southern northeast corner. I wish I knew of another hobbiest close by.?
Bill Nite V10P
|
Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
?
What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
|
Re: vfd load reactor suggestions?
I can recommend adding a surge protection device at the electric panel for whole house protection.?
https://a.co/d/2GwZnZX
Put one of these on and if your house or utility power supply cable gets hit by lightning, this will save all your appliances and tools. Immediately after the lightning strike remove and replace the protector as it will likely be used up.
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Len
Some VFD’s are noisier than others so you seem to have made a fortunate choice
It also depends on the motor’s history
The Emco motor tends to run hot so if it was previously in an environment where it was used a lot , then the insulation might also have suffered over time and be more prone to VFD or other spike damage
Lightning is also a hazard so not a good idea to use your machines in a storm?
. .? also unplug them when not in use if in a lightning prone area like the one I live in
? ?
Regards,
Carvel
?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Len Sherman via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2025 5:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] vfd load reactor suggestions?
?
Maybe I've been living dangerously, but I've run that same motor (on a VP10) from a VFD with no load filter for 10 years with no hint of a problem. I also have a VFD on an old BP clone mill of similar age, also with no issues.
|
Re: vfd load reactor suggestions?
Hi Len
Some VFD’s are noisier than others so you seem to have made a fortunate choice
It also depends on the motor’s history
The Emco motor tends to run hot so if it was previously in an environment where it was used a lot , then the insulation might also have suffered over time and be more prone to VFD or other spike damage
Lightning is also a hazard so not a good idea to use your machines in a storm? . .? also unplug them when not in use if in a lightning prone area like the one I live in ? ?
Regards,
Carvel ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Len Sherman via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2025 5:10 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] vfd load reactor suggestions? ? Maybe I've been living dangerously, but I've run that same motor (on a VP10) from a VFD with no load filter for 10 years with no hint of a problem. I also have a VFD on an old BP clone mill of similar age, also with no issues.
|
Re: vfd load reactor suggestions?
Maybe I've been living dangerously, but I've run that same motor (on a VP10) from a VFD with no load filter for 10 years with no hint of a problem. I also have a VFD on an old BP clone mill of similar age, also with no issues.
|
Jay