Re: V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
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A second hand dehydrator from Craig's list or Facebook marketplace should be pretty cheap
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All good advice. I think I can maintain the resolution I need with a .6mm nozzle, and the reduction in print time has been a lifesaver. I probably won't go any bigger than that though.
Printing with a raft is one of the next things I'm going to try. Also, it is conspicuous that my first print (sealed and dry from the factory) turned out the best. I put it back in the packaging when I was done, but no idea how much moisture it absorbed
between then and now.
Unfortunately I don't have a filament dryer, and I'm not too keen on drying this stuff in the oven I share with my food... Anyway, a dehydrator may be on the list of upcoming upgrades as well.
Ryan
A cardboard box is a workable enclosure, provided you're around to put out a fire should anything go wrong. Soak the inside before printing, you can blast the thing with a hairdryer to get it up to temp quickly.
You can add as much surface contact as you need, either with a raft or by adding a solid block under your part. Just make sure you have solid layers on the boundary of the final part and turn the rest off in the lathe. Depending on how good your printer
actually is, boring the center hole might not be a bad idea as well.
You'll want to print Nylon bone dry... some say even a few hours in the open will turn it into a mess.
Larger nozzle is gonna decrease your resolution, which might be counterproductive. Normally you can print 0.25mm layers with 0.4mm nozzle without problems.
Also, don't forget the parts shrink somewhat. Depending on your slicer it might be already compensated for, but adding a datum you can measure on the part directly or doing a test piece will let you know for sure.
On Tue, Mar 25, 2025 at 8:57?PM Ryan Harmon via
<ryanjharmon1= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jay,
I have a Prusa Mk3s, the original nylon test gear was printed with no enclosure on a warm day with the window open to avoid fumes. That one printed extremely well, but it definitely lulled me into a false sense of confidence on how easy it would be to
print the final versions out of nylon.
My replica gears for the lathe have much less surface contact with the bed, and I've had some issues with warping, plus some other less than ideal blotches showing up in the prints. The 61 tooth gear (which is the one I really need) is also a lot thicker,
which just gives more time for it to cool and have issues.
Currently working on improving this, I've been using PEI sheets, a larger nozzle diameter, and a basic enclosure, but it's not quite there yet. It's also getting warmer around here, I may go back to printing it in the open on a hot day just to see if that
was the secret to it all ?
I've got versions printed out of PETG and I'm tempted to put the lathe back together with those to at least validate my dimensions are correct, but TBD on that. Happy to share the cad/stl files in the meantime if someone else wants to give it a go!
Ryan
Ryan, this is a really interesting read. Thanks for all of the information!?
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What printer did you use for the nylon gears? I've been thinking about doing something similar, but unsure if my open-frame printer would be up to the job.
?
Jay
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