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Almus-
The diagram is in the pics section, and the text file is in the files
section. The only factory wiring diagram I have is the little 4 inch
one glued to the inside of the electrical panel. Did you check to see
if yours is still there?

Dave




--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "almus_kenter" <akenter@...> wrote:

-

and tidy them up. Do you have remote inputs for forward, reverse

and 2

preset frequencies on your drive?

Look on the inside of the electrical box door for the wiring diagram.

Dave-

Thanks Dave. I will look at the specs for the VFD this evening.


Do you have wiring diagrams for the S11?
I am trying to avoid buying manuals from BR
as the stuff I got from them before looked
like it was made on an old Soviet era
photo-copier.



-Almus

-

and tidy them up. Do you have remote inputs for forward, reverse and 2
preset frequencies on your drive?

Look on the inside of the electrical box door for the wiring diagram.

Dave-

Thanks Dave. I will look at the specs for the VFD this evening.


Do you have wiring diagrams for the S11?
I am trying to avoid buying manuals from BR
as the stuff I got from them before looked
like it was made on an old Soviet era
photo-copier.



-Almus

The vendor is right. You don't want to switch downstream of the
drive. I routed the power going to the drive through the safety
disconnect. The barrel switch has been reconfigured to switch the the
drive via the remote inputs, and the output of the drive goes directly
to the motor. The remote input refernce voltage can also be routed
through the door interlock safety switch. Your vendor would approve of
the setup. OSHA and NEC would even approve. I'll get my notes tonight
and tidy them up. Do you have remote inputs for forward, reverse and 2
preset frequencies on your drive?

Look on the inside of the electrical box door for the wiring diagram.

Dave-

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "davedamouth" <ddamouth@...> wrote:

Almus, there is a pic in the photo section of the VFD installed in the
stock electrical panel. I managed to use the stock switches. Let me
know if I need to summarize how I arranged the jumpers on the barrel
switch.

The control panel on this drive can be remotely mounted, might make it
easier to run other than the stock 2 speeds.

It will be summer before I find out if a fan needs to be added to the
door of the panel to keep it cool enough. I'm guessing it won't need
a fan.

Thanks for the interesting photo. The vendor who sold me the VFD
said the worst thing I could do was to turn the lathe off then
on with the switch while the VFD was on. Turning it off was fine
but that the "back on" would cause the VFD to reset, He didn't say
that it would hurt the VFD but he didn't seem to think it was
that great of an idea.

Please do let me know how you configured the jumpers.

I don't have any (wiring) diagrams for my lathe.

-Almus

Almus, there is a pic in the photo section of the VFD installed in the
stock electrical panel. I managed to use the stock switches. Let me
know if I need to summarize how I arranged the jumpers on the barrel
switch.

The control panel on this drive can be remotely mounted, might make it
easier to run other than the stock 2 speeds.

It will be summer before I find out if a fan needs to be added to the
door of the panel to keep it cool enough. I'm guessing it won't need
a fan.

Glad I am not the only one that thinks Blueridge is expensive. I
thought of buying standard gears and machining the bore. Eric

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "almus_kenter" <akenter@...>
wrote:

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Eric Wilson" <ericdwilson@>
wrote:

Thanks Almus, I spoke with Blueridge on some other parts mostly
handles & division collars (measurement - not sure of the

correct

term)... Not inexpensive. I thought there might be another
source. Eric

There is a video that shows how to make gears with a hobb. I forgot
the name of the guy who does it. I have a copy of the thing.
Not very professional in regards to the editting, but the
overall content and information is excellent. The video/dvd
is available from Littlemachineshop....Myabe the guy's
name is Jose Rodriguez ?? You need a mill + HV rotary table
and it shows you how to make the calculations, and then
make a hobb then make the gears. I have watched the video
and nothing portrayed is too complicated. I have not
made any gears yet...If I had to do it I could but
I try to avoid mission creep; Where you start out needing
a widget, then before you know it you are making a tool to
make a tool to make a tool so you can make the widget.

On the other hand I have heard that Boston gear has a tremendous
selection of gears and you can get something and then modify it.
It has been a while since I have looked at the Boston gear
catalog.

Blue Ridge is crazy expensive for some stuff...for the prices
they charge you can practically find someone to make stuff custom
for you.


-Almus

I am still looking for a manual for the S11.
If anyone has a decent copy I would gladly pay costs
for copy/mailing.
The Blue Ridge ones are way too crappy to pay 25.00
for.


-Almus Kenter

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Eric Wilson" <ericdwilson@...>
wrote:

Thanks Almus, I spoke with Blueridge on some other parts mostly
handles & division collars (measurement - not sure of the correct
term)... Not inexpensive. I thought there might be another
source. Eric

There is a video that shows how to make gears with a hobb. I forgot
the name of the guy who does it. I have a copy of the thing.
Not very professional in regards to the editting, but the
overall content and information is excellent. The video/dvd
is available from Littlemachineshop....Myabe the guy's
name is Jose Rodriguez ?? You need a mill + HV rotary table
and it shows you how to make the calculations, and then
make a hobb then make the gears. I have watched the video
and nothing portrayed is too complicated. I have not
made any gears yet...If I had to do it I could but
I try to avoid mission creep; Where you start out needing
a widget, then before you know it you are making a tool to
make a tool to make a tool so you can make the widget.

On the other hand I have heard that Boston gear has a tremendous
selection of gears and you can get something and then modify it.
It has been a while since I have looked at the Boston gear
catalog.

Blue Ridge is crazy expensive for some stuff...for the prices
they charge you can practically find someone to make stuff custom
for you.


-Almus

I added two photos in regard to my Hardinge QC tool post in the photos section under my
folder 'Dan Falck'. The first photo is a shot of one of the tool holders getting milled for a
lower center height to work with the compound.

Dan

Thanks Almus, I spoke with Blueridge on some other parts mostly
handles & division collars (measurement - not sure of the correct
term)... Not inexpensive. I thought there might be another
source. Eric

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "almus_kenter" <akenter@...>
wrote:

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Eric Wilson" <ericdwilson@>
wrote:

Anyone know where is the best place to purchase change gears for

a

V10P would be? Or is it better to buy commercial gears and make

them

fit?
Eric

Try Blue Ridge. They might have them. But I would recommend
that you call them several times to get them to check.

Otherwise watch and wait on ebay. I have a full set for
my V10P.

-Almus

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Eric Wilson" <ericdwilson@...>
wrote:

Anyone know where is the best place to purchase change gears for a
V10P would be? Or is it better to buy commercial gears and make them
fit?
Eric

Try Blue Ridge. They might have them. But I would recommend
that you call them several times to get them to check.

Otherwise watch and wait on ebay. I have a full set for
my V10P.

-Almus

Anyone know where is the best place to purchase change gears for a
V10P would be? Or is it better to buy commercial gears and make them
fit?
Eric

Hello Barrie and Group,

Not a proud owner yet, but hoping to find a V10 in the not too distant
future... Any leads would be gratefully received.

Currently I use a couple of Unimat SL1000s: an old Selecta badged cast
iron model from the 50s (built like a tank), and a light-weight alloy
model from the late 60s.
Also I have a couple of old EW lathes from the 50s one of which
supplied parts for the refurbisnment of the other. They are just a
little bigger than the SLs at 2?"x10". The refurbed one is a rare gap
bed version which adds a little extra capacity for occassional
faceplate work.

But as usually happens (or so I'm told...) I find the need of something
with a bigger turning and milling capacity. Due to space and cash
limitations I think the V10 would be ideal.

Regards
础苍诲谤é


--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Barrie Lever" <lancia038@...>
wrote:

Welcome to this group for enthusiasts of the fine Emco V10 series of
lathes, I will post as much information as I can into the files and
photos sections.

New members will have to be approved, this is only to try and filter
out the spam merchants, also the first message from new members will
have to be approved for the same reasons, I hope this will prevent the
rubbish that can be seen in some of the yahoo forums.

Please feel free to contribute or add information, the more the better
the group will be.

Barrie Lever

Sorry, I don't have a S11, but I do have some experience with the Bison 5C chuck on the
V10P. I use the screw on adapter plate. Instead of making everything a line to line fit and
worrying about the collets repeating every time I put the chuck on the spindle, I made a
sloppy fit and I indicate in the collet, if the work requires it. So, instead of buying the 'Set
Tru' backplate, I just slightly loosen the 3 capscrews that hold the chuck down to the
backplate slightly and then tap the chuck in while placing an indicator on a dowel pin in a
collet. It works well for me.

Dan

What are the options for 5c collets
in the S11? Royal no longer makes a
manual draw-bar....not that I wanted
to pay that kind of money.

So do I need to go to one of those Bison
5c collet chucks? My understanding
though is that collets that run in
the spindle are more accurate.

Blue ridge has a fast action 5c bar for
the lathe but the cost is ++insane++

Does anybody make a draw bar set up?

I see someone offers plans for one
on ebay but I think that they are just
lifted from an article from Projects
in Metal magazine. Has anyone seen this?


Thanks.

-Almus

Check the maximum amp setting on the 1 hp. If it will do 4.7 amps,
you can use it temporarily to put power to your new toy. Mine is
running on my 1 hp mill drive temporarily. I'd use the 2hp long term
though.

The Westinghouse drives have a good following. I'd pay extra for
something I was more familiar with.

The short version:

Bypass all the switches, wire the VFD outputs directly to terminals 1,
2 and 3 in the motor junction box. Leave 4, 5 and 6 unconnected.
This is the low speed side of the motor. At 60 hz, you have all the
same speeds as your low settings. Spin it to 120hz, and you have your
high speed settings. Added bonus, you have any range in between,
which is nice because its a large gap from 1100 to 2200.

This works nicely, and the motor is obviously rated for 3320 rpm,
which is what you are turning at 120 hz. You pull around 1.4 hp
across the entire speed range. If you jumper across from 4 to 5 and 5
to 6, you can make a bit more power at 60 hz, but you have to run 30
to 60 rpm. At 30 rpm on the high speed circuit, you'll be making less
than 1 hp. Using the low speed circuit is a better way to go.

I'm thinking the stock switches can be used for control. Hopefully in
the next few days I'll figure out the pinout on the big barrel switch
(B1). Should be able to use the safety disconnect to shut off power
to the drive, and use the speed selector switch to move the VFD
through preset 60 and 120 hz settings in forward and reverse. I'll
let you know when I figure out which pins will work.

If you haven't purchased a VFD yet, I'd give consideration to making
sure it has two options: remote inputs (for wiring though the barrel
switch or other switches for preset frequency) and the ability to use
a braking resistor. Threading in close to a shoulder gets easier when
you have a braking resistor.

Let me know if you want some info on how to deal with the 2 speed motor.

Sorry for all the postings. Yes how do you deal with the 2spd
motor?


-Almus

I'm using an Automation Direct GS2-22P0 from www.automationdirect.com.
Let me know if you want some info on how to deal with the 2 speed
motor.

I looked at that VFD unit. Pretty reasonable cost @235.00

I was thinking of getting a Westinghouse unit as I
have a 1hp unit already and figured on making use
of already having beaten the learning curve...though
the 2hp unit is 275.00


-a

Here is a QC tool post that looks like it would fit:



Though I am not sure how "Quick" it is given
that you use a wrench.


Even the blurb says it fits the V10


-Almus