开云体育

The short version:

Bypass all the switches, wire the VFD outputs directly to terminals 1,
2 and 3 in the motor junction box. Leave 4, 5 and 6 unconnected.
This is the low speed side of the motor. At 60 hz, you have all the
same speeds as your low settings. Spin it to 120hz, and you have your
high speed settings. Added bonus, you have any range in between,
which is nice because its a large gap from 1100 to 2200.

This works nicely, and the motor is obviously rated for 3320 rpm,
which is what you are turning at 120 hz. You pull around 1.4 hp
across the entire speed range. If you jumper across from 4 to 5 and 5
to 6, you can make a bit more power at 60 hz, but you have to run 30
to 60 rpm. At 30 rpm on the high speed circuit, you'll be making less
than 1 hp. Using the low speed circuit is a better way to go.

I'm thinking the stock switches can be used for control. Hopefully in
the next few days I'll figure out the pinout on the big barrel switch
(B1). Should be able to use the safety disconnect to shut off power
to the drive, and use the speed selector switch to move the VFD
through preset 60 and 120 hz settings in forward and reverse. I'll
let you know when I figure out which pins will work.

If you haven't purchased a VFD yet, I'd give consideration to making
sure it has two options: remote inputs (for wiring though the barrel
switch or other switches for preset frequency) and the ability to use
a braking resistor. Threading in close to a shoulder gets easier when
you have a braking resistor.