From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of teamricky.m via groups.io Sent: Friday, May 23, 2025 10:10 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] New Chat: Head stock alignments #chat-notice
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Hi Carvel,
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I did use a very good micrometer to check the diameter in a few spots along its length, I did remember I used it to set up the mill spindle and it measured evenly with that first test by and large , I think I was chasing a bit on the lathe spindle due to dirt in the taper ¡. It wasn¡¯t great !
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What I did not do on the mill spindle was to spin it for run out at the end of the bar from memory so that needs a go over :)
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So spoiler the lathe is fixed now and set up !
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What I had to do was take off the motor, Access the head stock bolts and grub screws and have at it ¡?
It was miles out! The grub screws audibly clicked when the tension was released, It took around 10 small adjustments-checking with the bar and dti each time..
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I got the left to right or in and out depending to within 3 microns at the end of the test bar , Well happy with that, The vertical plane is not perfect around 4 times that but I decided not to shim anything just yet-set up the tail stock and get to testing what I have.
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The conclusion after taking a cut along a 10mm bar approximately 75mm long (with several spring passes) gave an error of 5 microns but interestingly not a taper but a very slight wave so the bed wear is influencing the cut very slightly! But the accuracy now is very much ok and manageable if maximum accuracy is needed.
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I personally would use tail support as often as possible so I would be able to get slightly better results again, All in I think I¡¯m set once the mill motor is returned to be re-fitted !
I did use a very good micrometer to check the diameter in a few spots along its length, I did remember I used it to set up the mill spindle and it measured evenly with that first test by and large , I think I was chasing a bit on the lathe spindle due to dirt in the taper ¡. It wasn¡¯t great !
?
What I did not do on the mill spindle was to spin it for run out at the end of the bar from memory so that needs a go over :)
?
So spoiler the lathe is fixed now and set up !
?
What I had to do was take off the motor, Access the head stock bolts and grub screws and have at it ¡?
It was miles out! The grub screws audibly clicked when the tension was released, It took around 10 small adjustments-checking with the bar and dti each time..
?
I got the left to right or in and out depending to within 3 microns at the end of the test bar , Well happy with that, The vertical plane is not perfect around 4 times that but I decided not to shim anything just yet-set up the tail stock and get to testing what I have.
?
The conclusion after taking a cut along a 10mm bar approximately 75mm long (with several spring passes) gave an error of 5 microns but interestingly not a taper but a very slight wave so the bed wear is influencing the cut very slightly! But the accuracy now is very much ok and manageable if maximum accuracy is needed.
?
I personally would use tail support as often as possible so I would be able to get slightly better results again, All in I think I¡¯m set once the mill motor is returned to be re-fitted !
Not sure what test bar you are using but saying that you hand lapped it suggests it is not a commercial test bar
The fact that it runs true on its end doesn¡¯t mean that the bar itself is not tapered
To get a referenceable starting point I would suggest you get a commercially available ground MT-3 test bar and dial that from left to right horizontally and vertically to get an idea of where we are? . .?
The bar will also be useful for future setups and checking so a worthwhile investment
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of teamricky.m via groups.io Sent: Friday, May 23, 2025 3:58 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] New Chat: Head stock alignments #chat-notice
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Hi,
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I¡¯m using a test bar in the head stock taper¡.
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I have polished the inside of the spindle and removed any traces of dirt, Then I removed the run out at the far end of the bar by hand lapping the test bar off of the machine being careful to mark the high spots with dye!
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I then carried on until I had .001mm - .002 run out at the long end - so I know the bar is good?
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Then using the carriage with the dti trammed the bar and found the error !!
0.125mm taper over 125mm cut with spring passes¡. I¡¯m ok with how to test but rather than trying to move the headstock without asking seems to be a problem!
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Im hoping others here have done the set up and could point me in the right direction ;)
I recently bought a v10p from Houston that had the milling attachment and a pretty good selection of tooling. I paid $2000. My only frame of reference going in was a v10 I saw (not p version) with almost no tooling that sold for $2500 on facebook marketplace in my area.
I don't see these listed too often in the U.S. so it's hard to get a good estimate compared to a South Bend or Craftsman, but I would think you could expect something in the 2-3k range if everything is in good condition. That's my guess anyway
On Fri, May 23, 2025 at 8:40?AM Carey via <itmfluter=[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks for the reply Roman. I thought I would join and make an initial post to confirm everything is hooked up properly, I will post some photos soon. In the meantime, here's a video that shows what I mostly did with the lathe.?
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Thanks again,?
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Carey
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Emco V10P new 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have decided to sell the lathe. Anyone interested, or interested in more information please let me know.?
This subject has been posted on previously. Often, resulting taper is caused by other factors rather than head-stock alignment. Did you put an indicator at tool height (after cutting) to check that your piece runs true when turning the spindle, and then stroke along the length of your part to verify the indicator run-out is zero? This is always the first thing to do when you have unexpected taper on a lathe part.
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If you did this, and the indicator actually does run zero, then you should search the forum for "alignment" to learn more. Honestly though, that is quite a short piece to be seeing so much taper, or to use as a check mandrel for any alignment comparison.
I know I will be measuring bed wear as I sweep across the test bar but at this stage it seems a stable decline across the bar with no sudden jumps near the chuck end :)
I have polished the inside of the spindle and removed any traces of dirt, Then I removed the run out at the far end of the bar by hand lapping the test bar off of the machine being careful to mark the high spots with dye!
?
I then carried on until I had .001mm - .002 run out at the long end - so I know the bar is good?
?
Then using the carriage with the dti trammed the bar and found the error !!
Thanks for the reply Roman. I thought I would join and make an initial post to confirm everything is hooked up properly, I will post some photos soon. In the meantime, here's a video that shows what I mostly did with the lathe.?
?
?
?
Thanks again,?
?
Carey
--
Emco V10P new 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have decided to sell the lathe. Anyone interested, or interested in more information please let me know.?
0.125mm taper over 125mm cut with spring passes¡. I¡¯m ok with how to test but rather than trying to move the headstock without asking seems to be a problem!
?
Im hoping others here have done the set up and could point me in the right direction ;)
Hi Carey ,for atract more potentional buyers would be fantastic if you can provide lot of sharp pictures of lathe also tooling ,some details on lathe bed ,gears inside carriage atcc .
Emco V10P new 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have to sell or move the lathe. I only have a basement for it to go in, and the steps down are in the middle of the house. Not ideal. I don't use it much anymore so maybe it's time for it to be re-homed.
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I am in Fort Myers, FL. Anyone buying it would have to come get it. I rented a Penske truck in Dayton and three of us loaded it and I drove it to Fort Myers.?
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Can anyone give me an idea what some recent sale prices have been? I have a lot of tooling and tool steel ready to grind. Four-jaw chuck. other goodies. The stand needs painted since it stood in storm surge from a hurricane. The lathe was inscathed, but I lost my backup control box guts!!??
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I have a neighbor who will take it if I don't find? a buyer or decide to move it. Our movers charge by the pound, so not taking it would save some?
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Anyone have price advice, or interested in more information please let me know.?
Emco V10P new 1984 from my wife's uncle. I brought it to Florida from Dayton in 2006 and have used it to turn plastic, brass, aluminum and the odd steel part. It all works. I am moving and have to sell or move the lathe. I only have a basement for it to go in, and the steps down are in the middle of the house. Not ideal. I don't use it much anymore so maybe it's time for it to be re-homed.
?
I am in Fort Myers, FL. Anyone buying it would have to come get it. I rented a Penske truck in Dayton and three of us loaded it and I drove it to Fort Myers.?
?
Can anyone give me an idea what some recent sale prices have been? I have a lot of tooling and tool steel ready to grind. Four-jaw chuck. other goodies. The stand needs painted since it stood in storm surge from a hurricane. The lathe was inscathed, but I lost my backup control box guts!!??
?
I have a neighbor who will take it if I don't find? a buyer or decide to move it. Our movers charge by the pound, so not taking it would save some?
?
Anyone have price advice, or interested in more information please let me know.?
You need to press the shaft out about 20mm as a unit more or less, and then take the gears off one by one. On my metric machine, the bearing on the right side (by the big gear) is a slip fit on the shaft, while the other one is a press fit. It's therefore best to push from right to left, and apply pressure on the shaft only (not the whole bearing). Left hand side bearing gets pushed out of the casting in the process, the right one stays in the casting. There's no way IMHO to do this in a bearing friendly way without a press, so best to replace (at least the left one) on reassembly if you tap the thing out with a hammer.
I've uploaded two relevant reassembly videos. They are not edited - sorry - but should give you an idea :)
Just don't go banging on the stuff as I did, I was young(er) and stupid when I did this... made me cringe when I watched it now :)
On Thu, May 22, 2025 at 2:23?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Tim could you send some photo ? Hmm i was look in spare part list and is nothing what should hold this shaft in ,similar problem on bought side when you try take off ? Ok the shaft can go out only on leadscrew side at least on left side smallest one can pass bearing hole in body ,it is interesting- bearings has not lock rings , check up all gears are freely move during you try take off shaft also i would try move out bearing on quadrand side from inside out if you have acces ,time to time also can have shaft on ends smole mashrum when you try nock in ,let us know if and what help to take out it?
regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Tim D Schomer <rototype@...> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 21. 5. 2025 19:49:16 P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] Norton box Strip/Rebuild
Ahoj v?ichni,
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Je ?as za?¨ªt pracovat na Blue V10, abych ji mohl p?ipravit k prodeji (pot?ebuji m¨ªsto) a pot?ebuji vym¨§nit vnit?ky Nortonov?ch box?.
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Pokud si pamatujete, p?ed p¨¢r lety jsem si po?¨ªdil V10P ve velmi p¨§kn¨¦m stavu, to byl Imperial. Zat¨ªmco jsem ho ?istil a p?elakoval, vym¨§nil jsem ho za metrick? s pou?it¨ªm n¨§kter?ch d¨ªl? z modr¨¦ V10. Poda?ilo se mi sehnat metrickou Nortonovou p?evodovku V10p, co? mi to usnadnilo, ale te? mus¨ªm p?estav¨§t V10 na Imperial (proto?e ostatn¨ª d¨ªly v metrick?ch soustav¨¢ch nem¨¢m) a bez pomoci n¨¢hradn¨ª Nortonov¨¦ p?evodovky Imperial V10 mus¨ªm vyndat ozuben¨¢ kola z Imperial V10p Norton a vym¨§nit je za metrickou V10 Norton. (Doufejme, ?e to nakonec p?inese i n¨¢hradn¨ª metrickou p?evodovku V10p, je tu n¨§kdo, kdo by o ni st¨¢l za slu?nou cenu?)
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Zat¨ªm m¨¢m p?evodovku V10 pr¨¢zdnou a u V10p zbyla jen sedmistup¨¾ov¨¢ osa, ale tu prost¨§ nem??u vyndat.
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M¨¢m oba v¨¢lcov¨¦ ?epy vyta?en¨¦ z h?¨ªdele a kdy? na ni poklepu z obou konc?, h?¨ªdel se trochu pohybuje, ale po asi 2 mm se to prost¨§ zastav¨ª. Boj¨ªm se, ?e kdy? to ut¨¢hnu p?¨ªli? siln¨§, zlom¨ªm odlitek.
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M¨¢te n¨§jak¨¦ n¨¢vrhy, co bych mohl p?ehl¨¦dnout, nebo je to jen p?¨ªpad tlaku/n¨¢razu a p?¨ªpadn¨§ tepla, aby se to dostalo ven?
Hi Tim could you send some photo ? Hmm i was look in spare part list and is nothing what should hold this shaft in ,similar problem on bought side when you try take off ? Ok the shaft can go out only on leadscrew side at least on left side smallest one can pass bearing hole in body ,it is interesting- bearings has not lock rings , check up all gears are freely move during you try take off shaft also i would try move out bearing on quadrand side from inside out if you have acces ,time to time also can have shaft on ends smole mashrum when you try nock in ,let us know if and what help to take out it?
Je ?as za?¨ªt pracovat na Blue V10, abych ji mohl p?ipravit k prodeji (pot?ebuji m¨ªsto) a pot?ebuji vym¨§nit vnit?ky Nortonov?ch box?.
?
Pokud si pamatujete, p?ed p¨¢r lety jsem si po?¨ªdil V10P ve velmi p¨§kn¨¦m stavu, to byl Imperial. Zat¨ªmco jsem ho ?istil a p?elakoval, vym¨§nil jsem ho za metrick? s pou?it¨ªm n¨§kter?ch d¨ªl? z modr¨¦ V10. Poda?ilo se mi sehnat metrickou Nortonovou p?evodovku V10p, co? mi to usnadnilo, ale te? mus¨ªm p?estav¨§t V10 na Imperial (proto?e ostatn¨ª d¨ªly v metrick?ch soustav¨¢ch nem¨¢m) a bez pomoci n¨¢hradn¨ª Nortonov¨¦ p?evodovky Imperial V10 mus¨ªm vyndat ozuben¨¢ kola z Imperial V10p Norton a vym¨§nit je za metrickou V10 Norton. (Doufejme, ?e to nakonec p?inese i n¨¢hradn¨ª metrickou p?evodovku V10p, je tu n¨§kdo, kdo by o ni st¨¢l za slu?nou cenu?)
?
Zat¨ªm m¨¢m p?evodovku V10 pr¨¢zdnou a u V10p zbyla jen sedmistup¨¾ov¨¢ osa, ale tu prost¨§ nem??u vyndat.
?
M¨¢m oba v¨¢lcov¨¦ ?epy vyta?en¨¦ z h?¨ªdele a kdy? na ni poklepu z obou konc?, h?¨ªdel se trochu pohybuje, ale po asi 2 mm se to prost¨§ zastav¨ª. Boj¨ªm se, ?e kdy? to ut¨¢hnu p?¨ªli? siln¨§, zlom¨ªm odlitek.
?
M¨¢te n¨§jak¨¦ n¨¢vrhy, co bych mohl p?ehl¨¦dnout, nebo je to jen p?¨ªpad tlaku/n¨¢razu a p?¨ªpadn¨§ tepla, aby se to dostalo ven?
It's come around time to start working on the Blue V10 so I can get her ready to sell (I need the space) and I need to swap the innards of the Norton boxes.
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If you remember a few years ago I got a V10P in very nice condition that was Imperial and while I was cleaning it up & repainting it I swapped it over to Metric using some of the parts from the Blue V10, I managed to pick up a Metric V10p norton box so that made things easier but now I need to put the V10 to Imperial (because I don't have the other parts in Metric) and without the aid of a spare Imperial V10 Norton box I need to strip the gears out of the Imperial V10p Norton and swap them with the Metric V10 Norton. (hopefully this will also yield a spare V10p Metric box at the end of this, any takers for a fair price?).
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So far I have the V10 gearbox empty and the V10p just has the 7-gear spindle left in it but I just can't get it out.
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I have both of the roll pins out of the shaft and there's a small amount of movement of the shaft when I tap it with a drift from either end but after about 2mm it just stops, I'm afraid if I belt it too hard I'll break the casting.
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Any suggestions of anything I might have missed or is it just a case of pressure/impact and possibly heat to get it out?
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Many Thanks
Tim
(Hereford, UK)
Re: TOOL POST GRINDER - NEW original grinding wheels for sale
Hi Vedran i find out even cheaper solution help me one guy on facebook he send me pages in Austria directky for emco and you can order this wheel for 7.20eu ,problem is they have only 15 grind disk left and probably no more order for top up stock postage around europe at least for me too is +- 25 eu so i am not sure wher your live ,also i hihly recomendet to speek with lady name BEATRICE BULL because she speak english ,the other lady name AGNIESZKA speek only German and Polish , but you can send email and make order by email and she will translate it here are all details about pages and order no.?
i have email only for the lady who dos not speek english A.Ludkiewicz@...
here is the grinde wheel she sent me? - articul no. 112400??
i hope it help and make this proces for buying ,more faster like from TYROLIT Co. where you have to wait minimum 8 weeks befor will wheels ready for shipping, let me know please ,my reegards Roman
If I'm reading this correctly, it's medium hardness, brown Al oxide, open structured wheel, good up to 11000 RPM. Emco TP grinder goes up to 12000 RPM, but going by the manual, we're only supposed to use slow gear (4500 RPM) for OD grinding so it should be fine.
I don't really need them either, but sign me up for 3 pieces Roman
Regards
Vedran
On Sat, May 17, 2025 at 11:37?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi James this is like i hope specification on material a grit for grinding wheel?
more specification i will know at monday when everybody will in job .by the way like they pointed ,when i put order for manufacture it take maximum 8 weeks? but i will questioned too if it can be shorter time.
?my regards Roman
---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: James via <jchaiefx=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 17. 5. 2025 0:38:21 P?edm¨§t: Re: [emcoV10lathe] TOOL POST GRINDER - NEW original grinding wheels for sale
Hi Roman
Some more information would be useful, what kind of stones are they, Alummium Oxide ?
Considering that grinding wheels that fit the 16mm arbor of the Emco toolpost grinder
are discontinued, are these new manufactured or new old stock ?
I guess they're flat wheels ? Any cup wheels ?
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James
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Re: TOOL POST GRINDER - NEW original grinding wheels for sale
Hi Andrei i find out even cheaper solution help me one guy on facebook he send me pages in Austria directky for emco and you can order this wheel for 7.20eu ,problem is they have only 15 grind disk left and probably no more order for top up stock postage around europe at least for me too is +- 25 eu so i am not sure wher your live ,also i hihly recomendet to speek with lady name BEATRICE BULL because she speak english ,the other lady name AGNIESZKA speek only German and Polish , but you can send email and make order by email and she will translate it here are all details about pages and order no.?
i have email only for the lady who dos not speek english A.Ludkiewicz@...
here is the grinde wheel she sent me? - articul no. 112400??
i hope it help and make this proces for buying ,more faster like from TYROLIT Co. where you have to wait minimum 8 weeks befor will wheels ready for shipping, let me know please ,my reegards Roman
Roman, I just wore out my original wheel and have been unsuccessful trying to find a replacement here in the states. Please place me on your list for 3 Wheels. Either M80 or M60 is ok for me. Your email comes at an opportune
time, Clyde Jones
On Friday, May 16, 2025 at 04:41:33 AM EDT, roman fox via groups.io <romanfox68@...> wrote:
Hello all ,guys I have the opportunity to buy original size ,grinding wheels from the renowned company TYROLIT 65x6x16 mm ( grid M80, M60 depends on what we want, but only one type of grid for all wheels ), unfortunately the minimum quantity is 50 pieces,
the price for one including taxes is 12 eu, I would like to ask if anyone is interested, and how many pieces you will require ?? Thank you all for quick answer ,my regards Roman
ImWolf
Carey
Tim D Schomer