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advice not on sailing boat
dear knowledgable members, I maybe have 20-ish trips a year, also of 1,5-2hours, so say 50 hours a year - all in all an expensive hobby, but with friend on the canals, with a beer or wine and some snacks, cruising to the take-away pizza on the canal, romantic candlelight tours - it makes it worth it (well as long as you can help me do this electrification....) The boat is docked next to my houseboat so charging is no problem. no need for a lot of power but i do need be able to break quickly and have some manoeuvre power, also when i have 8 friends on board. I was hoping on some recommendations on;
I realise most of the converstaions here have been on sailboats and mine is different, still i hope you can educate me with your expertise, Thanks, Elwin |
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On 8/3/22 05:37, looije@... wrote:
I converted a 5m fiberglass half-cabin 'launch' of similar hull shape. Mine previously had a 5.5hp 2-stroke 2 cylinder petrol engine. I did the conversion over 10 years ago now, so the tech has matured more now. In particular there are multiple repower kits now available. Focused on sail auxiliaries, but an inboard is an inboard. |
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I would consider lithium batters only 48 volt bank the prices are coming down and the last longer .
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I think you should really look at the sail boat system there bench marks are way more geared to hill speed or slower Here is a video I made of how I figured out what I had and need Right wrong or indifferent this works for my little boat 22 footer DIY Electric Inboard -Tails of Speed, Torque, and Prop Pitch On Mar 7, 2022, at 5:48 PM, Matthew Geier <matthew@...> wrote: |
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i've been a bit distracted the past couple of weeks but have some data on the current propellor and rpm.? I have a (odd) 400 mm diameter , 290mm prop.? also I thought to find an engine with a low rpm to make it work without a reduction (less elements, less costs, less noice).? Any thoughts? |
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Trying to save money by avoiding an efficient motor and speed controller will force you to spend more than you need to on batteries. I recommend that, to minimize the overall system costs while achieving your performance goals, aim for an efficient design rather than trying to cut corners too early in the process.
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开云体育I agree with this.? And the battery is the only part of the system that is scalable.? You can save some now with? smaller battery bank and expand that later.? On 2022-04-30 6:16 am, Randy Cain wrote:
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hi, last summer I started this post, now a bit further in the process - I've purchased a used set, the best I could afford now - knowing that I need to do some adjustments to make it fit my situation.
Can you share your thoughts on setting up my system? I like to keep most parts in tact, of course, but can imagine changing some elements may be the best option.? what there is now; an?16x11 inch prop?400 mm diameter , 290mm prop., there is room to fit a bigger one.? my most used speed will be around 6,5kmh, around 500-700 rpm on the shaft? good fit or replace?. I bought a I think to powerful, but works 12-72v. As per their site, the ME1003 is designed to run 3000rpm at 72v, "This ME1003 is a Brush-Type, Permanent Magnet DC motor with very high efficiency. Capable of 11.5 KW continuous and 20 KW for 30 seconds (at 72 VDC). For voltages from 12 to 72 VDC input and 200 amps continuous (400 amps for 30 seconds ). " I have 8 6volt 330ah batteries AGM It may not be an ideal mix, but It's not a sailing boat, I just like to cruise the Amsterdam canals for a couple of hours.? Need some power to manoeuvre when it's busy, and when crossing the river.? I read a lot about higher efficiency at higher RPM, that would suggest reduction. But is that effluence difference significant? would a direct connection to the ax be nicer, as it requires less rpm (less noise)? Should I make this a 24 or 48 volt set-up? (I'll probably want to change to Litium batteries when the AGM batteries I have die (in a couple of years?)). How can I determine if I have enough power (torque?) in on 24vollt?? is cabling for lower voltage a significant costs compared to a higher voltage?? hope you can help me some pieces of this puzzle, thanks! |
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600 RPM at 11-inch pitch will come to around 8.5mk/h (allowing 15% slip).
Unsure if your motor will have enough torque though.? Seems like it will only be putting out ~2kW at that RPM. If you have a previous reference for power consumption at various speeds for your boat, that would help. Thinking you want closer to 8" pitch, then you can bring RPM up somewhat, which will get more total power out of the motor. Yes, prop efficiency will suffer somewhat, but without more torque from the motor, something has to give. The above is all assuming direct drive to the prop.? A 2:1 reduction helps with the total power issue, allowing use of 24V instead of just 12V.? Obvious downsides of more complexity, noise, and drivetrain losses. |
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Thanks Bobkart,?
I only have references below on 'power consumption', so not really. This if what I measured with my old diesel engine. 340rpm is almost neutral. 9.3 kmh is not far from max speed.
S0 maybe there is more slip? I've added some photos of the boat. You're suggesting a smaller prop, so I can make more rpm, so the engine will be efficient, right? if max rpm on 48v is 2250 (according to Monterey) then 24v will be 1125, right?? That's not that far off on the max rpm I expect I need with this prop. If cruising on 50% of that max rpm @ 24v, is that a situation that needs to be improved?? by a smaller prop with direct drive or with the same prop with a 2:1 reduction at 48v?? is my thinking correct?? and what would be smart to do :-) thanks again elwin i? |
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Elwin, My advice would be to not over think it. You are most likely going to need some kind of reduction gearing so set up a simple pully system using #50 motorcycle chain and sprockets which are very cheap and start with about a 2:1 or 3:1 reduction ratio and see what happens. Then you can easily change it with some different sprockets. The nice thing about chain and sprocket is it's easy and inexpensive to change up? Once you find the sweet spot you can switch to a synchronous belt drive if you want to reduce the noise or just put a shroud over the assembly and listen to it grind a little as you go down the canal.? That's what I did.?? The diesel on the Arc suffers from the same phenomenon that you are experiencing, that is, as soon as you put it in gear it wants to go faster than you like. For me it's about 3.5 mph at idle speed so when maneuvering in tight spaces when docking with the diesel the ship is lurching forwards and backwards and when you're dealing with a 20 ton boat surrounded by a million dollars in liability on all sides it give you a lot of pucker factor. It's also very hard on the transmission. The best thing about the electric drive is the rheostatic control of your speed. If you want to come in at .1 mph you can and adjust accordingly. Then all you have to worry about is wind and current.? Everything happens a lot slower and you know the first rule of mooring? is never approach a dock faster than you're prepare to run into at.? With the smaller electric motor you will likely not reach the speeds you did with the diesel but you said that is not your goal anyway. Nice little boat btw. Please show us some pictures of the engine and drive line too.? Capt. Carter www.shipofimagination.com?
On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 04:34:39 PM EDT, <looije@...> wrote:
Thanks Bobkart,? I only have references below on 'power consumption', so not really. This if what I measured with my old diesel engine. 340rpm is almost neutral. 9.3 kmh is not far from max speed.
S0 maybe there is more slip? I've added some photos of the boat. You're suggesting a smaller prop, so I can make more rpm, so the engine will be efficient, right? if max rpm on 48v is 2250 (according to Monterey) then 24v will be 1125, right?? That's not that far off on the max rpm I expect I need with this prop. If cruising on 50% of that max rpm @ 24v, is that a situation that needs to be improved?? by a smaller prop with direct drive or with the same prop with a 2:1 reduction at 48v?? is my thinking correct?? and what would be smart to do :-) thanks again elwin i? |
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just to add,?
I remember from earlier research that a 4kw engine would probably be fine to bring the boat to hull speed. (10,5kmh, 1000/1100 rpm). would that imply that 1200 watt would be enough for cruise speed? I have trouble understanding the graph of the ME1002, but at 24v (rpm range would fit), would the efficiency then drop If on cruise speed (and is that a problem?) ? Thanks |
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It does seem like you were experience more than 15% slip with the diesel.
Elwin's idea of just assuming you'll need a reduction and putting one in is a good one.? It doesn't look like direct drive will give you enough power (overpropped). Keep in mind that lower prop RPM is usually more efficient.? I.e. the efficiency hit of a prop mostly comes from drag through the water, which goes up faster than linear.? Keep RPM lower and pitch on the high side and you'll win compared to less pitch and more RPM (generally).? The challenge with direct drive and your current motor is that your target prop speed of ~600mph is too low for your motor power-wise.? This is actually a general challenge for electric boat motors, and why axial-flux motors are brought into play.? If you end up needing a different motor, that'd be a good direction to consider (Lynch for example). Once you have the ability to introduce nearly any reduction ratio you want to try, various combinations of battery voltage and reduction ratios can be experimented with.? If 4kW can hit hull speed, it sounds like 24V and 2:1 reduction seems close to ideal. As a final consideration, you may be very close to being able to hit a decent cruising speed (~6km/h) at full throttle.? But, you usually want some headroom, and not run at maximum current 'all the time'.? Wind/current/heavy-load will be more difficult to handle if you're at max power just cruising.? So 24V / 2:1 seems like the obvious first thing to try. |
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Dear Bobkart, so that would either be 48v with 2:1, or, 24v without gear reduction. That brings me back to the questions, would this me1003 engine be terribly inefficient at 500-600 rpm ? ?Or what other parts influence the lower or higher voltage use (Peukert effect?)
Thanks elwin |
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I produced this table from the first row and it looks like 48V might be a better solution.
I was basing the 24V suggestion off of your statement that 4kW can hit hull speed. But that's with no headroom for current/wind/heavy-loads: 72V 3,000rpm 11.5kW
60V 2,500rpm? 9.6kW
48V 2,000rpm? 7.7kW
36V 1,500rpm? 5.8kW
24V 1,000rpm? 3.8kW
12V? ?500rpm? 1.9kW
And 48V is a much more common electric boat battery size compared to 24V. With around 2:1 reduction you should be able to hit hull speed.? You may actually be a bit underpropped though, if more like 1,200 prop RPM is needed.? So just cut the reduction down to more like 1.8:1.? You'll be mainly operating in the lower half of the 0A-200A motor current range, so not that hard on it or the controller. There shouldn't be much inefficiency running the motor at less than 72V.? Possibly they have a published spec for efficiency versus input voltage?? Too-low voltages mostly suffer from needing more current and thus resistance goes up, unless you go big on conductors (but inside the motor/controller are out of reach).? I would think that 48V is pretty close to the sweet spot for the motor (if it even has one). Here's my 10kWh 48V battery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmk1_ynLdwI |