开云体育

I finially got some photos uploaded. I don't know
why they still say "0" by my album, but they are
there. These are in reference to my message # 20,
way-back last year. The hull and stopsides are awlgrip
paint. This spring I want to non-skid the decks anad add
some varnished teak trim. I just put it on a trailer
before Christmas and moved it home for the winter.
<br><br>It might interest some of you in knowing this is a
low budget yacht. I have less than $2,000 invested so
far, including a $300 trailer I had to purchase. It
took most of the summer getting it ready to use, but
it was worth it. My wife and i like leisurely
cruises down the Sassafras River. It fits us just
perfect.<br><br>My project over the winter is a 24 volt
go-cart.<br><br>Best wishes to everyone during the upcoming New
Year.<br><br>Zinger

Jim,<br>Good job of recycling, I'm sure that
you'll enjoy her. do you have any actual performance
data you'd like to share with us. Crusing speed, top
speed range etc. I'm sure we'd all like to let you brag
a little about her.<br><br>Don

I have an Autohelm ST30 knotlog installed. I
cruise at 4 knots and max at 5.5 knots. I only have 2
speeds right now. I run at 18 volts or 36 volts. Low
speed range is 8-9 hours. Hi speed is 4-4.5 hours. I
haven't run a constant 8 hours yet. I have done 5 or 6
one hour cruises with lots of power to spare, without
having to recharge. By the way, I am using an extra #27
gel-cell just for my electronics and motor control
circuits. That way I don't waste any of my main battery
power for radio, controlls, speedo, bilge pump, etc.

What prop did you settle on. In your original message (#20) you mentioned that you were using a 12 x 10 prop. In you Photos you mention a 12 x 6 three bladed prop.

I'm sorry for the confusion. I had planned on a
12x10 two blade prop. Then I found a 3 blade 12x6,
(which I didn't notice had a 7/8" bore). I ended up
using a 12x8 two blade sail boat prop. I have a 2:1
reduction on my motor. I need to check my rpm this year. I
started out with a chain drive (2:1 reduction also). It
worked great, but it made to much noise. When I went to
belt drive I think the extra friction cut my speed
down a little. <br><br>I hope to find time this winter
to write a short story about how I went about my
conversion. I have a few more picture I want to post some
time soon also.<br><br>Thanks for all the various info
you guys are posting here at the club.<br><br>Jim
"Zinger"

Jim,<br> Consider using a "Timing Belt" it will
offer the positive drive of a chain with the quite
operation of a belt. These are used in industry all the
time and offer long life with no maintence and they
don't slip. I have used hundreds of them to drive
printing presses. Look in your phone book under "power
transmission equiptment" or look for a "Browning" distributer
under bearing houses and they will help you out. They
are not as cheap as "V" belts but they will give you
the best of both worlds.

Thanks for the info on cog belts. I looked into
it at the beginning of my project. The prices and
the problem of choosing the proper size gears and
belts scared me away. I made the mistake of mounting my
motor to close to the prop shaft. This limited the
clearance for adjusting the belt. I still haven't figured
out how they size the belts. I wish I could just go
into a store and pick one up off the shelf. In the
beginning I used a 350 chevy timing gear and chain set.
This was very economical and gave me the 2:1 reduction
I wanted. It also gave me the lack of clearance
problem. Some day I would like to consider a new motor
with the integrated reduction gear and thrust bearing
setup. My budget still cringes at the idea and so far my
old golf cart motor is running ok.<br><br>If any one
is in the Eastern shore part of Maryland, I work at
the Georgetown Yacht Basin marina, on the Sassafras
River. I would be happy to say "Hi", and give you a tour
of whats going on.<br><br>Jim "Zinger"

Jim,<br>I would be happy to size the belt and
sheives for you and give you the part numbers so that you
can buy them. I do this for my clients all of the
time so its no big deal for me. I have all of the
catalogs at my fingure tips. I believe that you may need
to mount an ideler for tensioning but that should
not present a big problem based on you picture. If
you go to the "Elco" site and look at the picture of
there retrofit motor they use an adler also. What is
you shaft center distance.<br><br>Don

There is an electric boat at the Center for
Wooden Boats in Seattle which uses some kind of a
"cogged" belt for it's drive. While I gather slippage is
not a problem, it is pretty noisy. Does this sound
like the same belt? Any opinion about relative noise
from the timing belt application?<br><br>Larry

Properly applied a "timing Belt should be no
noiser than a V Belt that is not slipping. THat and the
lach of required lubrication is why they are so widely
used in industrial machine. Large customer like
"Budweiser" , "3M" and many other don't allow any other type
of drive system that is not a direct drive. If
someone has one that is noisey it is because they dont
have it tensioned properly and it is "Skipping" its
coges on one or both of the drive pullies. They
probubly don't have an idler installed for proper tension
adjustment and they are loosing the advantage of having one.
According to most manufacturers. The belts should be
tensioned to no more than 1/64 the span between pullies.
That is with a 32" span the belt should deflect 32/64
or 1/2". anymore than this and the belt will slip
any less and and it is to tight and can cause
excessive bearing side loading. The other reason why a belt
might slip is if the smaller pulley does not have
enough teeth in contact with the sheive. There should be
no less than 1/3 of the teeth of the pulley in
contact at any time. This can be cause by the center
distance not being enough or a improperly applyed
idler.<br><br>Properly applyed a timing belt "is the most efficient way
of coupling two shafts next to a direct drive."