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We have a Calex 3000 bidirectional 48-12 converter, max 3000w. Great idea, but it does need a 48v on high side and 12v on low side before it turns on, so it doesn't take the place of a 12v system -

Hey Matt, thanks for all that. As always on this group, it’s nice to hear the opinions of folks who know what they’re doing. Nice website by the way! We do have a rather large LifeP04 house

Your gut is correct. 2x12kw at 48v is fine. Your top speed will likely be around 7.5 knots. There are some efficiency gains at 72 or 96v but definitely not worth the hassle, especially on a

Okay, I'm just going to keep spinning off my original thread with another tangential question...hope that's okay.? This question is regarding the motor "size" to go with...really just the voltage.?

On a sidenote, manufacturing parts like this is really straightforward. Just measure accurately, watch some YouTube on how to use CAD software, libreCAD is open source and free. Design your parts and

I’m running same motors on my 12m/39’6” power cat. I have a 48v/1,000AH pack with Winston 1,000AH cells. 1. ?Going for 48v/600AH pack makes sense - you should be able to power your domestic

Thanks all!? Some good solutions and good points there.? Great to see some of that up close.? Somewhat unrelated question (though they're all really related) regarding batteries.? My plan at the

Great job.? I plan for something similar, so really appreciate you sharing.

A very fine installation Jesper! Well done. Dan Pfeiffer Links: ------ [1] /g/electr

Yes, the detent in the Curtis throttle is a bit light to me and there isn't a detent in my lever control on the pedestal. Of course you have a wee little knob like on a transistor radio to control

Found another picture of the body after I removed the original bracket. Not sure if links work here but I also took a short video showing how it works. Shifter cable is still attached in this video

I kept the old throttle body and throttle cable but removed the shifter cable. As the throttle moves in the same direction whether or not in forward or reverse (on a diesel) I had a bracket fabricated

Thanks Dan, just seeing the Curtis in detail clears that up for me.? So it sounds like, other than needing a more solid detent for neutral, the action on it is pretty smooth then?? I'll probably

I have the Curtis throttle and connected it by Morse-type cable to the original diesel gear shift lever on the steering pedestal. Single cable. Original shifting configuration was FWD-Neutral-REV.

Hey all, As mentioned in my earlier post, we're converting our 30-year old 48' cat to electric using a Thunderstruck kit (s)...long way to go, still in the planning phase.? I have a question

https://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/temo-electric-outboard-motor-tested-71589

Hello, all! A flood tide raises all boats, so I hope you'll be glad to see this link to the article PBO commissioned from us after we did our conversion and got as far as the Azores from the

John, Great thought with a notion to "mount the motor with a belt drive to the propeller shaft, so you can relatively cheaply adjust the "gear" ratio to match the propeller for best efficiency and

Where are you located, Mogjib? I assume you want to replace the gas engine of an existing longtail setup with an electric motor, on a boat type common in your locality. Many such boats are long,

There are a lot of variables. Do you know how fast and how far you need it to go? This will determine your design. If you want to go 4-5 knots for an hour or two, then a small electric outboard and