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"They are the most reliable motors on the boat.? Unless you hand crank the diesels (no electric starter), gravity fed fuel (no electric fuel pump) hand bilge pumps (no electric bilge pumps)" These

Sailing Uma talked about this in one of their episodes. The problem is that you have to energize an AC motor which requires some draw on the system. Until the prop is spinning fast enough to generate

I have zero electronic components in my boat except portable waterproof radio, plotter and cellphone. Thousands of automotive ECUs fail from the twin evils of moisture and vibration, despite the

Eric, I concur.? Over 600 conversions on ocean going sailboats up to 40000lbs.? If you do it right with quality marine components you will have a safe and reliable system.? Yes you can cross oceans

Has it just been 12 years, Eric? :) I seem to recall you having gone electric about when I did (2003). You certainly were on the leading edge of sailboat conversions and I may have been one of the

“ I was specifically referring to over computerized systems on smaller boats, susceptible to humid, salty atmosphere. . If the installation is kept more rudimentary and simpler, it can assumed it

For $3190? Yikes! I think that is an order of magnitude too steep for the use case. They look like an interesting vendor though!

Gotta admit you guys are definitely pushing the edge of the envelope & taking EP in a direction that to me is mindboggling. Nice work!

Oof, that thing costs more than the cells to make the pack. Looks like a nice unit though! Regarding all the issues pointed out about our fast switching bank idea, all completely correct - noise,

Jeff, have a search for Safiery and their Scotty product. It’s a 2-way DC-DC 12-48 buck boost for 3kW. It would provide your 12v tap (up to 3kW).

Oh, I would be very interested in your current draw vs speed in different conditions - flat, 1m seas. Are you running 48v? Thanks [email protected]> wrote:

I was specifically referring to over computerized systems on smaller boats, susceptible to humid, salty atmosphere. . If the installation is kept more rudimentary and simpler, it can assumed it

Yep, any marine drive system greater than 50V should consider the ABYC T-30 specifications. ?If the installation meets these “higher voltage” system specifications, then an insurance company

“Anyone considering going all electric propulsion in the salty ocean environment is being naive. The IC and computer components will corrode unless sealed circuit board tech, like in military,

I have a 12m cat displacing over 20,000# and have installed a pair of Motenergy 10kW water-cooled motors from thunderstruck-ev.com. Their motor mount/reduction made installation straight forward. I

Hi all, Very interesting discussions going on, thank you for your inputs. I was told that AC induction motors like mine are very bad /useless for regen. Would you agree? Aren't AC induction motors

Cycling through 4x series-connected 12v batteries will require a high current, isolated multiplexing circuit. The loss generated by the switching components will likely be as great a loss as a buck

* I did wonder but haven’t tried to figure out if you could run the DCDC converters in parallel, do you know? For sure you can parallel modules/converters that are designed to allow that. As

I think there are two issues that electric yachters have to address and the answers will likely be different for different kinds of users. 1: What is the fastest speed I can go and for how

Any voltage system above 50V is very hard to get boat insurance for. Kai