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Nice setup, Steve !You wrote :??"places the biggest bearing where it will take the forward thrust".Ther might be situations, where you will need the use of full reverse (when anchoring), but

Carsten, That'll do. Always good to know. Thanks. At first glance to my novice eye the specs the material you specified looks fairly tough to machine. Is the comparative machining issue with SS due to

Amazing thoughts! Thank you so much for all this information. I'm plodding along an slowly progressing.? Here are my existing thoughts. Dan, I'm planning on riffing from your plans, spinning the

Hey guys FaceTime my understanding of working with springs for many years I would worry about stress corrosion machining stainless steel and using it underwater unless you passivated after. Any pieces

Educated machinist at a nuclear test facility in Denmark. Worked as production planner and programmer of CNC multiple axis lathes and milling machines for 18 yearsSwitched to large marine producers,

I found this info: https://steelnavigator.ovako.com/steel-grades/34crnimo6/ Is a 4340 a similar alloy? I can get that from McMaster. Cost is the about the same as SS. How hard will it machine in my

We used the thrust bearing from Aqua Drive on 25kW motors. http://www.aquadriveusa.com/articles/pdf/passagemaker_may-june2008-aqd.pdf

Hi, Dan I will suggest 34CrNiMo6 alloy for your shaft.

That drawing I sent was a bit old. There are ongoing revisions as I sort out design issues. MOUNTING PLATE I chose aluminum for the motor plate/reduction gear for a couple reasons. Mostly it's easier

Dan, I have reviewed your drawings. Very interesting, a hybrid boat ! When you are using a toothbelt drive, you actually don't need a Drivesaver, as the toothbelt will slip or break in a crash-stop

Carsten, Can you elaborate? What kind of steel would you recommend for the short shaft on the reduction gear? And you thin the SS hub is not worth the added expense? I can certainly paint all this

Eniquest in Australia may be able to help. [email protected]> wrote:

Dan, this is an incredibly useful reply! Thank you!! I really like your approach, especially since I don't have an intermediate location to put an inline thrust bearing. (Although it wouldn't be hard

Either that, or your reduction ratio is not right. Need to get your motor turning a fast as possible when fully loaded. This will reduce motor amps which equates to heat. At full load I see around 40

Your speed / amp draw chart looks right on. My 10 kwt system on 48 volts starts *heating* up above 3.5 knots and 20 min. on my 34 foot trawler turning the big prop. Had a conversation with Canadian

Thanks, Dan ! Save your money on stainless (exept the shaft part from cutless bearing to prop).You have an inboard, and mechanical properties of good ol "rusty" steel are usually better than ss. Could

I have also spent a lot of time looking for thrust bearing options. That Python Drive looks like a great solution where there is room to fit it. Looks like it will leave some room in the wallet too.

(sorry if this is a repeat - I posted it 8hrs ago and it never showed up) I have also spent a lot of time looking for thrust bearing options. That Python Drive looks like a great solution where there

I've been searching for a used telcom generator but haven't found a deal yet. 48V DC generators aren't that common but I've still got time. Can't buy anything until I sell the house.

Have you sourced the 8kW 48vdc generator?