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As mentioned above, your BMS is not functioning properly if it let you drive any cells lower than 2.5v. also, and sorry if this is dumb, but you never mention charging voltages. It almost sounds like

Thanks for this. After my initial post and comments from members I decided to break down the 16 cells into groups of 4, charge them with a Victron 12v charger to 3.5 volts and then put them all back

I have a JK BMS on the 48v motor bank, 24v house bank, and 12v outboard electric motor bank. Both the 12v and 24v work fine and I don't use them for balancing. I inadvertently killed the JK BMS on the

I agree with your general opinion of Daly products, and I usually avoid them like the plague. But I did find a few reviews that said the smart balancer worked on the larger cells. I was skeptical,

While all "DIY" style BMS's have issues, I highly recommend staying away from Daly. The parameters they use for balancing are such that a typical pack will likely never get balanced. That's just the

Peter OK, first, your BMS is not doing its job. The primary job of a BMS is to disconnect the battery if any of the individual cells go lower or higher than what the settings are, and / or the cells

First, do not charge the cells to 3.7, especially at that low rate. Stop at 3.55 or 3.6 at most. Second, the math is the math. As others have pointed out, if you parallel all the cells,

there is a relatively new youtube channel called Fantasia Sailing (from Australia) that shows him running and comparing his cat with one diesel and one electric motor. He does speed and power tests

Peter By now I’m sure you have got your batteries charged but I will try to explain for others to maybe learn from. For a battery to charge, the charger voltage must be higher than the battery

Riding style will depend on who’s riding. ?Older people will most likely be more steady. ?Younger will be more erratic I would guess. ?Not going to let anyone be wild though! ?I will assume a

Hi, John How will your sailing style be ?Accelerating/decelerating all the time (young and wild rider),?or a short startup and then cruising rest of the time ? Most power goes from 0 to

LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) is the same as LFP (Lithium Ferrophosphate): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery I'm using 180Wh/Kg to arrive at ~250lbs.? That's the best

Thanks. ?Have seen that video and you are correct, would be way underpowered (is also very nice but very expensive).

Was planning on using LiFePO4 (assume same as LFP?) as I am reading they are supposed to be the safest. ?By eliminating the gas power head and gas tank I save maybe 112lbs. ?With the new motor, etc.

I don’t think this setup will have near enough power for you, but it’s an interesting study of converting a gas outboard to electric: Converting a Gas Outboard to Electric Made

Let's assume 24hp is good for 'cruising speed'? That's 18kW at the prop, but considering drivetrain losses, let's go with 20kW input.? The real number is probably higher. So 20kWh of battery will

I’m in the process of building a combination hydroplane/jetski (1988 Popular Mechanics plans) which calls for a 35 hp outboard maximum. ?I have an old outboard which needs work so I thought I’d

Peter, I send you a longer reply directly. ?Don't know why you can't find me, 'cause I've been mostly lurking here for years. My short answer is that the little, inexpensive device will work, even

Hi Thomas,? I absolutely would be very interested in the specifics. Unfortunately, don't know your email address and can't find you in the "Directory". Can you reply with your email address, or, here

I bought one of those too, a while back. It will NOT do what I understand you're wanting to do with it.? More specially, it will work, but it will take waaaaay too long per cell. Email me directly if