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We installed an Elco system in a Tartan 34C a few years back. It was a great system and Elco customer service was excellent.

I have an Electric Yacht QT2.5 (no longer offered publicly, but likely still available if you contact EY) installed on a 3200 lb. catboat for the past three years, and have had no issues with the

I recently pulled out a frozen Volvo Penta from a Santana 30/30 GP, so I am also doing research for an 10kw electric propulsion system to get me in and out of a small inland cove marina. I have spent

I purchased my motors, controllers and motor mounts from www.thunderstruck-EV.com ( http://www.thunderstruck-EV.com ). They are great to deal with and sell complete kits. You’ll need to calculate

I also went electric for my 10M with parts from Thunderstruck. I fabricated my own motor mounting and reduction drive. See all sorts of details

Check out thunderstruct_ev.com. I got my motor and controller from them and I'm pretty happy with it.

Hello, New to this group. I just purchased a Pearson P27 1989 model last spring.? The engine is shot.? I pulled it out and had a mechanic take it apart.? He said it is a goner. Since I only have a

I produced this table from the first row and it looks like 48V might be a better solution. I was basing the 24V suggestion off of your statement that 4kW can hit hull speed. But that's with no

Dear Bobkart, thanks again. I understand your reasoning on the 24v / 2:1 reducing IF full throttle is for cruising speed at 600 rpm. But I want full throttle to be hull speed, say about 1100rpm. so

It does seem like you were experience more than 15% slip with the diesel. Elwin's idea of just assuming you'll need a reduction and putting one in is a good one.? It doesn't look like direct drive

just to add, I remember from earlier research that a 4kw engine would probably be fine to bring the boat to hull speed. (10,5kmh, 1000/1100 rpm). would that imply that 1200 watt would be enough for

Elwin, My advice would be to not over think it. You are most likely going to need some kind of reduction gearing so set up a simple pully system using #50 motorcycle chain and sprockets which are

Thanks Bobkart, I only have references below on 'power consumption', so not really. This if what I measured with my old diesel engine. 340rpm is almost neutral. 9.3 kmh is not far from max speed. rpm

600 RPM at 11-inch pitch will come to around 8.5mk/h (allowing 15% slip). Unsure if your motor will have enough torque though.? Seems like it will only be putting out ~2kW at that RPM. If you have

hi, last summer I started this post, now a bit further in the process - I've purchased a used set, the best I could afford now - knowing that I need to do some adjustments to make it fit my

hi all, i just bought the kit as described, got it for 2500 euros. let's see if it has been a good deal... i hope you can give me some input to get me started. What is missing is the forward/reverse

thanks! I was not afraid for the 1003 motor, glad to hear the Altrax will probably be fine too. The kit of motor and controller seem to be available new for about 1500 euros, battery charger about

Twenty (20) years later and I’m still driving my boat with the ETEK brush motor I bought new in 2003. I went thru 3 sets of brushes in that time (and no new sets were available until this past

Just to add to the chorus - don’t buy the used AGM batteries. Wait til you can afford LFP. As for the brushed motor : I’ve met plenty of folks with older diy electric setups with brushed motors

Elwin, I've been using what is essentially a brushed, series wound golf cart motor on steroids in the Arc for over 12 years and thousands of miles and it's still going strong in the marine