On Sep 2, 2020, at 7:15 PM, Lee Chrystal <lee@...> wrote:

?

Lots of us are refitting older boats, aside from the electric motor itself noises and vibration will most certainly come from

Worn Cutless bearings. (Vibration)

Shaft misalignment.??? (Vibration and certainly chain coupler noise, early parts retirement)

Bent, Worn out shaft.? (Causing worn Cutless bearing, Noisy coupler, Early parts retirement)

Bent props.???????????????????? ( all the above).

?

IMHO before installing your kit pull the shaft so you can inspect the surface where the Cutless bearing has been in contact with the shaft.

I could tell my Cutless bearing was worn before I even removed it by jiggling the shaft at the prop, I could move the shaft up and down a bit. Its when I pulled the shaft I found the shaft worn where the bearing contacts it.? I know a guy and had my shaft built up and polished and luckily it wasn’t bent.

?

On a 1978 Balboa sailboat as I have I am glad I went through all the final drive components first as I found the issues described above… and if you had to change the Cutless bearing later it will change the alignment again slightly and you will likely get a little noise and vibration all over again, Crap…

?

Put the shaft in with the new parts including new shaft packing in the nut but don’t screw on the packing nut yet.

?

You now will know where the shaft will be.

?

Then mount only the reduction plate with the lower pulley and the supplied shaft attached (Like it came out of the box from T-Struck) so it will be easier to play with the angle.

?

The two angles that bolt to the adaptor plate and connect to the engine rails could have a ? inch rubber pad under them, Reducing vibration through the hull. I have taken this approach.

?

The reduction plate has a variety of holes to get the system to the elevation you need for your specific boat and when I found which pre drilled holes I needed to use I bolted the angles on with SS Bolts ,Washers and Locknuts and then tig welded a few spots between the reduction plate and the angle to keep them from moving.

?

ALWAYS drill the correct size holes for the bolts so you reduce potential movement over time of any attached component. Smaller bolts than holes are bad!

?

You will now be able to make smaller slight adjustments up/down by compressing the rubber after you get it lined up as best as you can with as few shims as possible (Good rubber not a stack of old soft rubber bike tubes).

?

I used SS bolts washers and locknuts throughout the install when applicable anyway and now wont loose sleep over components ever becoming separated.

?

At the same time that you set your two braces to hold the reduction plate in place at the correct angle you need to line up the shafts without the chain coupler in the way so you can verify exact alignment with a straightedge, like a T-Square or metal rule. Top, Bottom, Side to side.

When you get it perfect as can be, and don’t settle for not perfect just slide the shaft out a bit and install the coupler.

?

At this point i was able to spin the system with one hand and have it continue spinning a little bit (Inertia) so I feel its aligned nicely.

?

Now set your packing nut, install the motor, top pulley (again aligned as best as can be, Install the belt and you should be good.

?

Keep in mind that a chain coupler is very very tough so I used it, there are quieter and less durable ways to connect shafts,

I want tough! as quiet as that can allow for is fine by me.

That said a good quality solid collar type coupler would create no noise and be tougher. (INSERT IDEA BULB) I may change to that type I just never thought of it till now. That should be used only if you really get things aligned exactly.

I presume T-Struck provides the kit with Chain couplers and I feel it’s a good idea is so a wider range of folks can get it handled DIY albeit a bit noisier than a solid link.

?

I hope I never missed anything and these are just my thoughts and experiences gathered during my 40 year career as a boat loving welder and millwright, your experiences/results may differ.

?

Best of luck and I hope to see you not hear you out there…

Lee Chrystal

Marsh Specialty HVAC LTD

Box 5061 STN Main

Leduc Alberta T9E-6L5

Cell: (780) 975-6801

?

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of THOMAS VANDERMEULEN
Sent: September 2, 2020 2:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [electricboats] No Vibration? - How did you get there?

?

This question is to Thunderstruck motor kit users who are NOT having a problem with vibration.? How did you manage it?? Learning what works from someone who's made it work would be terrific!
Are you using the chain-and-sprocket shaft coupling arrangement T'struck provides, or some other coupling arrangement?? Did you use standard motor mounts, or did you hard mount the reduction gear rails more or less directly to the hull?

I have a T'struck kit operating nicely on a test bench, and have not yet started an installation.? Our local installer, as recommended by T'struck, told me on the phone that they would need to use motor mounts and some other items not provided by T'struck that he did not detail in that conversation.

So, the few reports in this group over the past few weeks by skippers of recently launched e-boats of uncomfortable levels of vibration who are using the Thunderstruck motor kit, and T'struck reduction gear got me wondering again about the best way to mount the system, and also to couple it to my shaft prop.

The chain-and-sprocket arrangement is not common in this application.? It's stated that this arrangement can help compensate for slight misalignment between reduction shaft and prop shaft, but I'm skeptical.? Can that approach be as good as, for example, a flexible shaft coupling such as those from R&D Marine or from Vetus?? (These are more expensive, I recognize.)

My existing diesel motor mounts are shot so I can't reuse them.? And my existing shaft coupling is a solid-style, split type, so would require precision alignment.? Would using new motor mounts allow enough adjustment to ensure a precision alignment?

Any success stories out there?

[-tv]
Tom VanderMeulen
"Grace O'Malley"
Cape Dory 27
Monroe, MI

?

Lots of us are refitting older boats, aside from the electric motor itself noises and vibration will most certainly come from

Worn Cutless bearings. (Vibration)

Shaft misalignment.??? (Vibration and certainly chain coupler noise, early parts retirement)

Bent, Worn out shaft.? (Causing worn Cutless bearing, Noisy coupler, Early parts retirement)

Bent props.???????????????????? ( all the above).

?

IMHO before installing your kit pull the shaft so you can inspect the surface where the Cutless bearing has been in contact with the shaft.

I could tell my Cutless bearing was worn before I even removed it by jiggling the shaft at the prop, I could move the shaft up and down a bit. Its when I pulled the shaft I found the shaft worn where the bearing contacts it.? I know a guy and had my shaft built up and polished and luckily it wasn’t bent.

?

On a 1978 Balboa sailboat as I have I am glad I went through all the final drive components first as I found the issues described above… and if you had to change the Cutless bearing later it will change the alignment again slightly and you will likely get a little noise and vibration all over again, Crap…

?

Put the shaft in with the new parts including new shaft packing in the nut but don’t screw on the packing nut yet.

?

You now will know where the shaft will be.

?

Then mount only the reduction plate with the lower pulley and the supplied shaft attached (Like it came out of the box from T-Struck) so it will be easier to play with the angle.

?

The two angles that bolt to the adaptor plate and connect to the engine rails could have a ? inch rubber pad under them, Reducing vibration through the hull. I have taken this approach.

?

The reduction plate has a variety of holes to get the system to the elevation you need for your specific boat and when I found which pre drilled holes I needed to use I bolted the angles on with SS Bolts ,Washers and Locknuts and then tig welded a few spots between the reduction plate and the angle to keep them from moving.

?

ALWAYS drill the correct size holes for the bolts so you reduce potential movement over time of any attached component. Smaller bolts than holes are bad!

?

You will now be able to make smaller slight adjustments up/down by compressing the rubber after you get it lined up as best as you can with as few shims as possible (Good rubber not a stack of old soft rubber bike tubes).

?

I used SS bolts washers and locknuts throughout the install when applicable anyway and now wont loose sleep over components ever becoming separated.

?

At the same time that you set your two braces to hold the reduction plate in place at the correct angle you need to line up the shafts without the chain coupler in the way so you can verify exact alignment with a straightedge, like a T-Square or metal rule. Top, Bottom, Side to side.

When you get it perfect as can be, and don’t settle for not perfect just slide the shaft out a bit and install the coupler.

?

At this point i was able to spin the system with one hand and have it continue spinning a little bit (Inertia) so I feel its aligned nicely.

?

Now set your packing nut, install the motor, top pulley (again aligned as best as can be, Install the belt and you should be good.

?

Keep in mind that a chain coupler is very very tough so I used it, there are quieter and less durable ways to connect shafts,

I want tough! as quiet as that can allow for is fine by me.

That said a good quality solid collar type coupler would create no noise and be tougher. (INSERT IDEA BULB) I may change to that type I just never thought of it till now. That should be used only if you really get things aligned exactly.

I presume T-Struck provides the kit with Chain couplers and I feel it’s a good idea is so a wider range of folks can get it handled DIY albeit a bit noisier than a solid link.

?

I hope I never missed anything and these are just my thoughts and experiences gathered during my 40 year career as a boat loving welder and millwright, your experiences/results may differ.

?

Best of luck and I hope to see you not hear you out there…

Lee Chrystal

Marsh Specialty HVAC LTD

Box 5061 STN Main

Leduc Alberta T9E-6L5

Cell: (780) 975-6801

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

?

This question is to Thunderstruck motor kit users who are NOT having a problem with vibration.? How did you manage it?? Learning what works from someone who's made it work would be terrific!
Are you using the chain-and-sprocket shaft coupling arrangement T'struck provides, or some other coupling arrangement?? Did you use standard motor mounts, or did you hard mount the reduction gear rails more or less directly to the hull?

I have a T'struck kit operating nicely on a test bench, and have not yet started an installation.? Our local installer, as recommended by T'struck, told me on the phone that they would need to use motor mounts and some other items not provided by T'struck that he did not detail in that conversation.

So, the few reports in this group over the past few weeks by skippers of recently launched e-boats of uncomfortable levels of vibration who are using the Thunderstruck motor kit, and T'struck reduction gear got me wondering again about the best way to mount the system, and also to couple it to my shaft prop.

The chain-and-sprocket arrangement is not common in this application.? It's stated that this arrangement can help compensate for slight misalignment between reduction shaft and prop shaft, but I'm skeptical.? Can that approach be as good as, for example, a flexible shaft coupling such as those from R&D Marine or from Vetus?? (These are more expensive, I recognize.)

My existing diesel motor mounts are shot so I can't reuse them.? And my existing shaft coupling is a solid-style, split type, so would require precision alignment.? Would using new motor mounts allow enough adjustment to ensure a precision alignment?

Any success stories out there?

[-tv]
Tom VanderMeulen
"Grace O'Malley"
Cape Dory 27
Monroe, MI

?

I ended up? bolting my motor to a Browning gear drive with c-face adapter. It's very similar to a Electro Prop system. The drive sits on a drop pan that can be adjusted by 4 motor mounts just like an ICE. This allows you to really aline the output shaft of the drive to the prop shaft. I used typical flanged & bolted couplings to connect everything. In my opinion no matter what coupler one uses to connect the prop shaft to the drive, alignment is critical to prevent vibration. When I did my conversion I also installed a new shaft & cutlass bearing.?

Bob

?

This question is to Thunderstruck motor kit users who are NOT having a problem with vibration.? How did you manage it?? Learning what works from someone who's made it work would be terrific!
Are you using the chain-and-sprocket shaft coupling arrangement T'struck provides, or some other coupling arrangement?? Did you use standard motor mounts, or did you hard mount the reduction gear rails more or less directly to the hull?

I have a T'struck kit operating nicely on a test bench, and have not yet started an installation.? Our local installer, as recommended by T'struck, told me on the phone that they would need to use motor mounts and some other items not provided by T'struck that he did not detail in that conversation.

So, the few reports in this group over the past few weeks by skippers of recently launched e-boats of uncomfortable levels of vibration who are using the Thunderstruck motor kit, and T'struck reduction gear got me wondering again about the best way to mount the system, and also to couple it to my shaft prop.

The chain-and-sprocket arrangement is not common in this application.? It's stated that this arrangement can help compensate for slight misalignment between reduction shaft and prop shaft, but I'm skeptical.? Can that approach be as good as, for example, a flexible shaft coupling such as those from R&D Marine or from Vetus?? (These are more expensive, I recognize.)

My existing diesel motor mounts are shot so I can't reuse them.? And my existing shaft coupling is a solid-style, split type, so would require precision alignment.? Would using new motor mounts allow enough adjustment to ensure a precision alignment?

Any success stories out there?

[-tv]
Tom VanderMeulen
"Grace O'Malley"
Cape Dory 27
Monroe, MI

?

?

I like your stacking platform.? I have 2 of the four batteries in front of the motor and the other two to the side where the gas tank used to live but now I'm thinking I need to look at a platform.? I will also look at mounting additional supports on the top of the gear reduction mount.

?

As a side note I was disappointed with the performance of? my 10KW Thunderstruck system with a top speed of 4 knows drawing 100amps.? I had a diver go down and clean the prop and the speed went up .3 knots but the current draw dropped from 104 amps to 51 full throttle.? I still think I need to change props but this was a big improvement.

John

On 8/31/2020 3:08 PM, Ryan Sweet wrote:

Well your basic power curve looks very similar to mine. I haven’t been able to make adjustments yet but will report when I do.?

?

I have the Thunderstruck gear reduction/engine mount and am using 2:1.?

?

I tensioned the belt to where it could just barely be deflected by hand.?

?

I was able to greatly reduce vibration by connecting the top nuts on the reduction frame with 1”x 1/4” steel plates at an angle to the other mount. (Pic below) They were thin enough to bend into place but vertically rigid. I put a rubber grommet in between the plate and the reduction. That stopped the top of the reduction frame from shaking back and forth.?

?

I think to fix my angle I am going to take out the lags that are going through the horizontal angle-iron and cut the wood away a bit, then install post bolts and lock nuts that I can use to adjust the angle up and down. my worry is that then more of the vibration will transfer through the bolt into the hull but if I can get the alignment right that seems preferable to destroying the cutlass bearing and stuffing box. ?I have a cover to fit over the exposed batteries and wiring in the pic below, but showing basically I built a platform for the batteries where the old engine was, keeping the weight as much in the same place (low and central) as possible. With the thunderstruck reduction the new engine sits entirely aft of where the old one was, but having removed all of the old exhaust system etc there is still tons of room.?

?

I haven’t noticed the motor whining but the shaft is pretty loud still. ?Equally irritating is that my Noco Genius 48v battery charger makes a very high pitches whine whenever it is running.?

?

<image.jpg>

?

<image0.jpeg>

On Aug 31, 2020, at 10:46, Myles Twete <matwete@...> wrote:

?

Sounds like a data range/wraparound issue---could be a parameter isn’t configured right or perhaps the wrong shunt or ???

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of MATT
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [electricboats] First run

?

Hi Ryan,?

We also just launched a couple weeks ago after our big conversion.? Right now, we are using the CAN translator and the Torque app on my android tablet which is supposed to show amps out, watts, and SOC% but none of those are working correctly.? When I get up to 16 amps, it resets to 0 and starts counting up again.? Since the watts are calculated from the amps, they also reset at about 1250 and start back at 0.? ?It is hard to trust the numbers when it's doing that.? I'm in touch with Thunderstruck to try and figure out the issue but nothing yet.? We use the Curtis battery monitor to show the SOC and it works pretty well.? Link .

We also are having a hard time getting the alignment just right.? Pretty much exactly as you said, the shafts look aligned but the prop shaft is not perfectly straight through the cutlass.? We get some vibration, especially at higher RPM.? What surprises us the most is the very high pitched whine that comes from the motor.? It's far from silent.? I don't know if it's normal or if maybe the belt is too tight.? Do you have a gear reduction???

Here are our very very preliminary numbers considering the watts I'm showing are slightly untrustworthy.? We are also in the puget sound where it's damn near impossible to get away from any currents and our speed log doesn't work, so we are relying on SOG.? Boat is a 39', 20k lb, sloop with the motenergy 1616 at 72V and 180ah (13kw) bank.? 17'' 2 blade maxprop.??

WATTS? ?RPMS? ? SOG(KTS)
1000? ? ? ?1500? ? ? ?3.1
2100? ? ? ?2000? ? ? ?3.7
3600? ? ? ?2500? ? ? ?4.5
6000? ? ? ?3000? ? ? ?5.6

Let us know how your shaft alignment goes.

?

?

I like your stacking platform.? I have 2 of the four batteries in front of the motor and the other two to the side where the gas tank used to live but now I'm thinking I need to look at a platform.? I will also look at mounting additional supports on the top of the gear reduction mount.

?

As a side note I was disappointed with the performance of? my 10KW Thunderstruck system with a top speed of 4 knows drawing 100amps.? I had a diver go down and clean the prop and the speed went up .3 knots but the current draw dropped from 104 amps to 51 full throttle.? I still think I need to change props but this was a big improvement.

John

On 8/31/2020 3:08 PM, Ryan Sweet wrote:

Well your basic power curve looks very similar to mine. I haven’t been able to make adjustments yet but will report when I do.?

?

I have the Thunderstruck gear reduction/engine mount and am using 2:1.?

?

I tensioned the belt to where it could just barely be deflected by hand.?

?

I was able to greatly reduce vibration by connecting the top nuts on the reduction frame with 1”x 1/4” steel plates at an angle to the other mount. (Pic below) They were thin enough to bend into place but vertically rigid. I put a rubber grommet in between the plate and the reduction. That stopped the top of the reduction frame from shaking back and forth.?

?

I think to fix my angle I am going to take out the lags that are going through the horizontal angle-iron and cut the wood away a bit, then install post bolts and lock nuts that I can use to adjust the angle up and down. my worry is that then more of the vibration will transfer through the bolt into the hull but if I can get the alignment right that seems preferable to destroying the cutlass bearing and stuffing box. ?I have a cover to fit over the exposed batteries and wiring in the pic below, but showing basically I built a platform for the batteries where the old engine was, keeping the weight as much in the same place (low and central) as possible. With the thunderstruck reduction the new engine sits entirely aft of where the old one was, but having removed all of the old exhaust system etc there is still tons of room.?

?

I haven’t noticed the motor whining but the shaft is pretty loud still. ?Equally irritating is that my Noco Genius 48v battery charger makes a very high pitches whine whenever it is running.?

?

<image.jpg>

?

<image0.jpeg>

On Aug 31, 2020, at 10:46, Myles Twete <matwete@...> wrote:

?

Sounds like a data range/wraparound issue---could be a parameter isn’t configured right or perhaps the wrong shunt or ???

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of MATT
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [electricboats] First run

?

Hi Ryan,?

We also just launched a couple weeks ago after our big conversion.? Right now, we are using the CAN translator and the Torque app on my android tablet which is supposed to show amps out, watts, and SOC% but none of those are working correctly.? When I get up to 16 amps, it resets to 0 and starts counting up again.? Since the watts are calculated from the amps, they also reset at about 1250 and start back at 0.? ?It is hard to trust the numbers when it's doing that.? I'm in touch with Thunderstruck to try and figure out the issue but nothing yet.? We use the Curtis battery monitor to show the SOC and it works pretty well.? Link .

We also are having a hard time getting the alignment just right.? Pretty much exactly as you said, the shafts look aligned but the prop shaft is not perfectly straight through the cutlass.? We get some vibration, especially at higher RPM.? What surprises us the most is the very high pitched whine that comes from the motor.? It's far from silent.? I don't know if it's normal or if maybe the belt is too tight.? Do you have a gear reduction???

Here are our very very preliminary numbers considering the watts I'm showing are slightly untrustworthy.? We are also in the puget sound where it's damn near impossible to get away from any currents and our speed log doesn't work, so we are relying on SOG.? Boat is a 39', 20k lb, sloop with the motenergy 1616 at 72V and 180ah (13kw) bank.? 17'' 2 blade maxprop.??

WATTS? ?RPMS? ? SOG(KTS)
1000? ? ? ?1500? ? ? ?3.1
2100? ? ? ?2000? ? ? ?3.7
3600? ? ? ?2500? ? ? ?4.5
6000? ? ? ?3000? ? ? ?5.6

Let us know how your shaft alignment goes.

On Aug 31, 2020, at 14:17, John Theune <jatheune@...> wrote:

?

I like your stacking platform.? I have 2 of the four batteries in front of the motor and the other two to the side where the gas tank used to live but now I'm thinking I need to look at a platform.? I will also look at mounting additional supports on the top of the gear reduction mount.

As a side note I was disappointed with the performance of? my 10KW Thunderstruck system with a top speed of 4 knows drawing 100amps.? I had a diver go down and clean the prop and the speed went up .3 knots but the current draw dropped from 104 amps to 51 full throttle.? I still think I need to change props but this was a big improvement.

John

On 8/31/2020 3:08 PM, Ryan Sweet wrote:

Well your basic power curve looks very similar to mine. I haven’t been able to make adjustments yet but will report when I do.?

I have the Thunderstruck gear reduction/engine mount and am using 2:1.?

I tensioned the belt to where it could just barely be deflected by hand.?

I was able to greatly reduce vibration by connecting the top nuts on the reduction frame with 1”x 1/4” steel plates at an angle to the other mount. (Pic below) They were thin enough to bend into place but vertically rigid. I put a rubber grommet in between the plate and the reduction. That stopped the top of the reduction frame from shaking back and forth.?

I think to fix my angle I am going to take out the lags that are going through the horizontal angle-iron and cut the wood away a bit, then install post bolts and lock nuts that I can use to adjust the angle up and down. my worry is that then more of the vibration will transfer through the bolt into the hull but if I can get the alignment right that seems preferable to destroying the cutlass bearing and stuffing box. ?I have a cover to fit over the exposed batteries and wiring in the pic below, but showing basically I built a platform for the batteries where the old engine was, keeping the weight as much in the same place (low and central) as possible. With the thunderstruck reduction the new engine sits entirely aft of where the old one was, but having removed all of the old exhaust system etc there is still tons of room.?

I haven’t noticed the motor whining but the shaft is pretty loud still. ?Equally irritating is that my Noco Genius 48v battery charger makes a very high pitches whine whenever it is running.?

<image.jpg>

<image0.jpeg>

On Aug 31, 2020, at 10:46, Myles Twete <matwete@...> wrote:

?

Sounds like a data range/wraparound issue---could be a parameter isn’t configured right or perhaps the wrong shunt or ???

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of MATT
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [electricboats] First run

?

Hi Ryan,?

We also just launched a couple weeks ago after our big conversion.? Right now, we are using the CAN translator and the Torque app on my android tablet which is supposed to show amps out, watts, and SOC% but none of those are working correctly.? When I get up to 16 amps, it resets to 0 and starts counting up again.? Since the watts are calculated from the amps, they also reset at about 1250 and start back at 0.? ?It is hard to trust the numbers when it's doing that.? I'm in touch with Thunderstruck to try and figure out the issue but nothing yet.? We use the Curtis battery monitor to show the SOC and it works pretty well.? Link .

We also are having a hard time getting the alignment just right.? Pretty much exactly as you said, the shafts look aligned but the prop shaft is not perfectly straight through the cutlass.? We get some vibration, especially at higher RPM.? What surprises us the most is the very high pitched whine that comes from the motor.? It's far from silent.? I don't know if it's normal or if maybe the belt is too tight.? Do you have a gear reduction???

Here are our very very preliminary numbers considering the watts I'm showing are slightly untrustworthy.? We are also in the puget sound where it's damn near impossible to get away from any currents and our speed log doesn't work, so we are relying on SOG.? Boat is a 39', 20k lb, sloop with the motenergy 1616 at 72V and 180ah (13kw) bank.? 17'' 2 blade maxprop.??

WATTS? ?RPMS? ? SOG(KTS)
1000? ? ? ?1500? ? ? ?3.1
2100? ? ? ?2000? ? ? ?3.7
3600? ? ? ?2500? ? ? ?4.5
6000? ? ? ?3000? ? ? ?5.6

Let us know how your shaft alignment goes.

Well your basic power curve looks very similar to mine. I haven’t been able to make adjustments yet but will report when I do.?

I have the Thunderstruck gear reduction/engine mount and am using 2:1.?

I tensioned the belt to where it could just barely be deflected by hand.?

I was able to greatly reduce vibration by connecting the top nuts on the reduction frame with 1”x 1/4” steel plates at an angle to the other mount. (Pic below) They were thin enough to bend into place but vertically rigid. I put a rubber grommet in between the plate and the reduction. That stopped the top of the reduction frame from shaking back and forth.?

I think to fix my angle I am going to take out the lags that are going through the horizontal angle-iron and cut the wood away a bit, then install post bolts and lock nuts that I can use to adjust the angle up and down. my worry is that then more of the vibration will transfer through the bolt into the hull but if I can get the alignment right that seems preferable to destroying the cutlass bearing and stuffing box. ?I have a cover to fit over the exposed batteries and wiring in the pic below, but showing basically I built a platform for the batteries where the old engine was, keeping the weight as much in the same place (low and central) as possible. With the thunderstruck reduction the new engine sits entirely aft of where the old one was, but having removed all of the old exhaust system etc there is still tons of room.?

I haven’t noticed the motor whining but the shaft is pretty loud still. ?Equally irritating is that my Noco Genius 48v battery charger makes a very high pitches whine whenever it is running.?

On Aug 31, 2020, at 10:46, Myles Twete <matwete@...> wrote:

?

Sounds like a data range/wraparound issue---could be a parameter isn’t configured right or perhaps the wrong shunt or ???

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of MATT
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [electricboats] First run

?

Hi Ryan,?

We also just launched a couple weeks ago after our big conversion.? Right now, we are using the CAN translator and the Torque app on my android tablet which is supposed to show amps out, watts, and SOC% but none of those are working correctly.? When I get up to 16 amps, it resets to 0 and starts counting up again.? Since the watts are calculated from the amps, they also reset at about 1250 and start back at 0.? ?It is hard to trust the numbers when it's doing that.? I'm in touch with Thunderstruck to try and figure out the issue but nothing yet.? We use the Curtis battery monitor to show the SOC and it works pretty well.? Link .

We also are having a hard time getting the alignment just right.? Pretty much exactly as you said, the shafts look aligned but the prop shaft is not perfectly straight through the cutlass.? We get some vibration, especially at higher RPM.? What surprises us the most is the very high pitched whine that comes from the motor.? It's far from silent.? I don't know if it's normal or if maybe the belt is too tight.? Do you have a gear reduction???

Here are our very very preliminary numbers considering the watts I'm showing are slightly untrustworthy.? We are also in the puget sound where it's damn near impossible to get away from any currents and our speed log doesn't work, so we are relying on SOG.? Boat is a 39', 20k lb, sloop with the motenergy 1616 at 72V and 180ah (13kw) bank.? 17'' 2 blade maxprop.??

WATTS? ?RPMS? ? SOG(KTS)
1000? ? ? ?1500? ? ? ?3.1
2100? ? ? ?2000? ? ? ?3.7
3600? ? ? ?2500? ? ? ?4.5
6000? ? ? ?3000? ? ? ?5.6

Let us know how your shaft alignment goes.

On Aug 31, 2020, at 10:46, Myles Twete <matwete@...> wrote:

?

Sounds like a data range/wraparound issue---could be a parameter isn’t configured right or perhaps the wrong shunt or ???

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of MATT
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [electricboats] First run

?

Hi Ryan,?

We also just launched a couple weeks ago after our big conversion.? Right now, we are using the CAN translator and the Torque app on my android tablet which is supposed to show amps out, watts, and SOC% but none of those are working correctly.? When I get up to 16 amps, it resets to 0 and starts counting up again.? Since the watts are calculated from the amps, they also reset at about 1250 and start back at 0.? ?It is hard to trust the numbers when it's doing that.? I'm in touch with Thunderstruck to try and figure out the issue but nothing yet.? We use the Curtis battery monitor to show the SOC and it works pretty well.? Link .

We also are having a hard time getting the alignment just right.? Pretty much exactly as you said, the shafts look aligned but the prop shaft is not perfectly straight through the cutlass.? We get some vibration, especially at higher RPM.? What surprises us the most is the very high pitched whine that comes from the motor.? It's far from silent.? I don't know if it's normal or if maybe the belt is too tight.? Do you have a gear reduction???

Here are our very very preliminary numbers considering the watts I'm showing are slightly untrustworthy.? We are also in the puget sound where it's damn near impossible to get away from any currents and our speed log doesn't work, so we are relying on SOG.? Boat is a 39', 20k lb, sloop with the motenergy 1616 at 72V and 180ah (13kw) bank.? 17'' 2 blade maxprop.??

WATTS? ?RPMS? ? SOG(KTS)
1000? ? ? ?1500? ? ? ?3.1
2100? ? ? ?2000? ? ? ?3.7
3600? ? ? ?2500? ? ? ?4.5
6000? ? ? ?3000? ? ? ?5.6

Let us know how your shaft alignment goes.

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of MATT
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [electricboats] First run

?

Hi Ryan,?

We also just launched a couple weeks ago after our big conversion.? Right now, we are using the CAN translator and the Torque app on my android tablet which is supposed to show amps out, watts, and SOC% but none of those are working correctly.? When I get up to 16 amps, it resets to 0 and starts counting up again.? Since the watts are calculated from the amps, they also reset at about 1250 and start back at 0.? ?It is hard to trust the numbers when it's doing that.? I'm in touch with Thunderstruck to try and figure out the issue but nothing yet.? We use the Curtis battery monitor to show the SOC and it works pretty well.? Link .

We also are having a hard time getting the alignment just right.? Pretty much exactly as you said, the shafts look aligned but the prop shaft is not perfectly straight through the cutlass.? We get some vibration, especially at higher RPM.? What surprises us the most is the very high pitched whine that comes from the motor.? It's far from silent.? I don't know if it's normal or if maybe the belt is too tight.? Do you have a gear reduction???

Here are our very very preliminary numbers considering the watts I'm showing are slightly untrustworthy.? We are also in the puget sound where it's damn near impossible to get away from any currents and our speed log doesn't work, so we are relying on SOG.? Boat is a 39', 20k lb, sloop with the motenergy 1616 at 72V and 180ah (13kw) bank.? 17'' 2 blade maxprop.??

WATTS? ?RPMS? ? SOG(KTS)
1000? ? ? ?1500? ? ? ?3.1
2100? ? ? ?2000? ? ? ?3.7
3600? ? ? ?2500? ? ? ?4.5
6000? ? ? ?3000? ? ? ?5.6

Let us know how your shaft alignment goes.

On Aug 26, 2020, at 09:52, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan@...> wrote:

?I am working on a larger write up but thought I would share some results from my first run.

Main concern: it was too loud! I think the cutlass bearing was too worn when I started The project and there was too much motion up and down. I think that the shaft is aligned with the motor well, but that it’s at to much of an angle with respect to the Cutlass bearing. This is also putting pressure on the stuffing box.

So I need to adjust the angle.

But I was able to get some preliminary numbers

The boat is a 1979s 30 foot fiberglass hulled ketch (Rawson 30). Hull speed is 6.9ish

Power consumption is almost logarithmic, as expected ~20a @ 3.2kn, ~55a @ 4.5kn, 115a@ 5.5kn

Don’t yet know how much to trust that meter.

What do you guys use to monitor battery capacity? I have a little meter that I ordered from Amazon but it recorded 100% capacity at the end of the run and when I plugged in the charger, it recorded between 50 and 75%. unfortunately the charger doesn’t give me a better number than that.