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Re: 48V system cirucuit breakers? Vs. Fuses?
I saw some similar breakers to those on Amazon.? The ones you mention below have a 50V rating.? The peak charging voltage for a 48V battery system is ~56V.? ? I'm reluctant to use a breaker that's only rated to 50V in a system that will regularly hit and slightly exceed that rating. I ended up ordering this one from Amazon, with a rating of 12V - 72V: Though, that one will take a couple of weeks to arrive.? I was thinking of temporarily putting a 30A inline fuse in the circuit while I wait.? ?And then....? discovered all the public boat ramps are still closed.? The fully qualified breaker may be here before I can get good access to a boat ramp. The first test was to run the motor in a garbage can filled with water.? But that only allowed me to get the motor up to 100W (~2A).? ? The next test will be to back the boat down a boat ramp so that the motor is in the water, and run the motor at the dock for about an hour at about 900W.? I'll be watching the voltage on the motor, and probably taking data points every 5-10 min.? At 900W (~18A) to 1000W (~20A@50V) - I am expecting that I'll end the test due to low battery voltage before I hit an hour.? ? But this will give me a good idea of how well the battery is working compared to the advertised rating.? ?And it will also give me confidence that I can run the boat a long enough to take it off the trailer and putz around. From previous tests with AGM batteries, 600W got me about 4mph, while 960W only increased that another half mph.? ?Cruising at 500-600W? (~10-12A) should be about the sweet spot for this boat, and should hopefully get me well over an hour of cruising on a 20Ah battery, with some margin to spare. John
On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 09:29:26 PM CDT, sw via groups.io <v1opps@...> wrote:
Maybe these will work for you? https://www.ebay.com/itm/30A-300A-AMP-Circuit-Breaker-Fuse-Manual-Switch-12-48V-DC-Car-Boat-Waterproof-/143422006751
On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 05:27:43 PM PDT, john via groups.io <oak_box@...> wrote:
I'm using a 48V E-bike battery pack in a proof of concept type experiment. The battery pack is rated at 20Ah, with a discharage of 50A, and max discharge of 100A. The electric motor can pull up to 100A - so I'd like to put a circuit breaker in line with the battery, with the idea being that if someone accidentally gets too excited on the throttle, the circuit breaker would trip long before the BMS does.? ?(This is especially after the relevant post about the BMS protection circuits being an unknown quantity in sealed battery systems!) Questions: 1) What is a good circuit breaker for a 48V system?? I'm thinking around 25-30A.? ?Most seem rated for 12V, some up to 48V.? I've only found one so far that is rated for 72V. 2)? Can I use a "48V (max?)" rated circuit breaker?? ?Is that intended for a 48V system that really goes up to 56-58V at peak charge, or is it really strictly limited for 48V (and intended for 32V systesms)?? 3)? Is a standard 30A blade fuse ok to use in a 48V circuit?? Many don't seem to have voltage ratings... Thanks, John |
Re: 48V system cirucuit breakers? Vs. Fuses?
Maybe these will work for you? https://www.ebay.com/itm/30A-300A-AMP-Circuit-Breaker-Fuse-Manual-Switch-12-48V-DC-Car-Boat-Waterproof-/143422006751
On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 05:27:43 PM PDT, john via groups.io <oak_box@...> wrote:
I'm using a 48V E-bike battery pack in a proof of concept type experiment. The battery pack is rated at 20Ah, with a discharage of 50A, and max discharge of 100A. The electric motor can pull up to 100A - so I'd like to put a circuit breaker in line with the battery, with the idea being that if someone accidentally gets too excited on the throttle, the circuit breaker would trip long before the BMS does.? ?(This is especially after the relevant post about the BMS protection circuits being an unknown quantity in sealed battery systems!) Questions: 1) What is a good circuit breaker for a 48V system?? I'm thinking around 25-30A.? ?Most seem rated for 12V, some up to 48V.? I've only found one so far that is rated for 72V. 2)? Can I use a "48V (max?)" rated circuit breaker?? ?Is that intended for a 48V system that really goes up to 56-58V at peak charge, or is it really strictly limited for 48V (and intended for 32V systesms)?? 3)? Is a standard 30A blade fuse ok to use in a 48V circuit?? Many don't seem to have voltage ratings... Thanks, John |
48V system cirucuit breakers? Vs. Fuses?
I'm using a 48V E-bike battery pack in a proof of concept type experiment. The battery pack is rated at 20Ah, with a discharage of 50A, and max discharge of 100A. The electric motor can pull up to 100A - so I'd like to put a circuit breaker in line with the battery, with the idea being that if someone accidentally gets too excited on the throttle, the circuit breaker would trip long before the BMS does.? ?(This is especially after the relevant post about the BMS protection circuits being an unknown quantity in sealed battery systems!) Questions: 1) What is a good circuit breaker for a 48V system?? I'm thinking around 25-30A.? ?Most seem rated for 12V, some up to 48V.? I've only found one so far that is rated for 72V. 2)? Can I use a "48V (max?)" rated circuit breaker?? ?Is that intended for a 48V system that really goes up to 56-58V at peak charge, or is it really strictly limited for 48V (and intended for 32V systesms)?? 3)? Is a standard 30A blade fuse ok to use in a 48V circuit?? Many don't seem to have voltage ratings... Thanks, John |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
The distributor is General Electronics. I found them on Alibaba.com. I have attached the spec sheet. My batteries are due in to Toronto in the next day or so and when I get them I will post something about them. Phil
On Thursday, April 30, 2020, 05:15:32 p.m. EDT, georgeh3ci <george@...> wrote:
Hey Phil, Can you share your China source of LifePo4?? That looks like a great price! If I¡¯m doing my math right that¡¯s over 800 AH at 12v?? Or am I missing something? Thanks, ? g ? ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Phil Boyer via groups.io
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 12:15 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [electricboats] AGM or LiFePo4 ? I have 10KW of LifePo4 batteries on order from China and are due to land in Toronto first week of May. My cost so far was $2600 Canadian or $1900 US. I have not cleared customs yet so not sure what the duty and taxes will be. ? On Monday, April 27, 2020, 11:49:32 a.m. EDT, L Schmitz via groups.io <terminalift@...> wrote: ? ? Hello Pat,? I did the upgrade last year. I went from 4? 12v 220 ah agm to? ?lifepo4? ? I put together 4 battery boxes with? 3.2v 90ah cylinder cells. 4P4S for each box. Then in series for 48v system. You will need a bms and a different? charger? This is a cool upgrade and not too difficult.. I am able to monitor the batteries in charge and discharge mode at any given time with my I phone.? I have great continuous run time and overnite charging with? my dock power. I can suggest a couple sources depending on east or west coast usa.;? I hope this helps.? thank you? best regards Larry Schmitz ? ?Terminalift LLC 9444 Mission Park Place Santee, CA 92071 Ph: (619) 562-0355 F: (619) 562-2060 ? ? On Monday, April 27, 2020, 08:03:54 AM PDT, sw via groups.io <v1opps@...> wrote: ? ? Is that 24v or 48v? Can buy surpluses Tesla ,?leaf or other?packs too On Monday, April 27, 2020, 07:43, greenpjs04 <forums@...> wrote:
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Re: AGM or LiFePo4
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHey Phil, Can you share your China source of LifePo4?? That looks like a great price! If I¡¯m doing my math right that¡¯s over 800 AH at 12v?? Or am I missing something? Thanks, ? g ? ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Phil Boyer via groups.io
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 12:15 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [electricboats] AGM or LiFePo4 ? I have 10KW of LifePo4 batteries on order from China and are due to land in Toronto first week of May. My cost so far was $2600 Canadian or $1900 US. I have not cleared customs yet so not sure what the duty and taxes will be. ? On Monday, April 27, 2020, 11:49:32 a.m. EDT, L Schmitz via groups.io <terminalift@...> wrote: ? ? Hello Pat,? I did the upgrade last year. I went from 4? 12v 220 ah agm to? ?lifepo4? ? I put together 4 battery boxes with? 3.2v 90ah cylinder cells. 4P4S for each box. Then in series for 48v system. You will need a bms and a different? charger? This is a cool upgrade and not too difficult.. I am able to monitor the batteries in charge and discharge mode at any given time with my I phone.? I have great continuous run time and overnite charging with? my dock power. I can suggest a couple sources depending on east or west coast usa.;? I hope this helps.? thank you? best regards Larry Schmitz ? ?Terminalift LLC 9444 Mission Park Place Santee, CA 92071 Ph: (619) 562-0355 F: (619) 562-2060 ? ? On Monday, April 27, 2020, 08:03:54 AM PDT, sw via groups.io <v1opps@...> wrote: ? ? Is that 24v or 48v? Can buy surpluses Tesla ,?leaf or other?packs too On Monday, April 27, 2020, 07:43, greenpjs04 <forums@...> wrote:
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Re: AGM or LiFePo4
Interesting discussion. I hadn't considered the current draw of a balancing BMS on a LiFePO4 pack. I had thought about the (slight) risk of a balancing MOSFET failing and bringing down the pack, so I bought a simple battery monitoring system, which only provides high/low voltage and high temperature cutoff. It's always powered, and draws a few microamps. My little 4s pack loses maybe 10mV sitting in the boat over the winter with no charging at all. I'm a fan of bottom balancing, which makes sense for a traction pack, whose main purpose is to be drained by a motor and then recharged. I'm going into my third season, and the cell voltages have drifted very little. I wanted to know the cell voltages at a glance, but? didn't want powered volt meters draining them. I found little voltage display modules on eBay for two dollars each, and wired one across each cell with a push-button switch. It takes 3 seconds for a module to boot and display the cell voltage. I also wired the solar charger to the pack through a double throw switch so I could charge the pack through the BMS (normal setting), or directly to the cells, in case I ever need to recover from a low voltage shutdown. The switch also lets me disconnect the charger completely for all those sunny days when the boat just sits there and the battery is already at a good state of charge. My thought about commercial batteries that are bricked by their BMSs: if the warranty is expired, cut open the case and clip on a charger. Commercial failure? DIY recovery opportunity. |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
Thank you for the info Everybody was telling me to just keep the bms powered all the time I wasn¡¯t sure so I added switches to the bms power so I can switch them off Since I¡¯m usually gone a lot But since home a lot now I leave it on and can see it every few days Once?Was gone for a few month and came back and saw pack was near zero All that I know was on was a volt meter ( could be a pre charge on too since I didn¡¯t see a separate pre charge switch,unless built in relay via the key) Lost at least one battery (6 cells) from that .... As I mentioned I just use the bms to balance the cells since I draw too much power to run it through the bms Don¡¯t want to burn up the bms Cheers
On Tuesday, April 28, 2020, 09:47:21 AM PDT, Myles Twete <matwete@...> wrote:
I¡¯m not so sure that ¡°the BMS should only be used in case the charger fails¡±---if the charger fails ON, even a BMS will probably be useless to stop it.? Same story for a charger that fails by allowing pack to discharge into the charger after shutting down.? Ignoring the charger failure scenarios, a BMS is useful during charging in 2 or 3 ways: ¡¤?????? Identifying that a cell has reached a maximum voltage and informing the charger so it can shut charge current OFF ¡¤?????? Cell balancing (typically by bypassing current around full cells) ¡¤?????? Allowing charging to restart after cell imbalance corrected ? The basic CV/CI charger is blind to what is happening at the individual cell level, while a BMS cell monitor/manager is cognizant at that level.? And while it is important that the BMS is commonly referred to as being used to ¡°balance¡± all the cells, they often can and should provide critical information, data or control to the charging system to ensure against overcharging a single cell.? Yes, wildly out-of-balance cells should not be expected if a BMS has been managing cells regularly or at least occasionally.? But they can happen.? Fortunately, the outliers are usually ¡°leaky¡± or perhaps most common, self-discharging or discharging thru leaky BMS mosfets.? And so a single or a few low cells won¡¯t cause much of an increase in charged cell voltage for the rest of the majority of cells at the final charge voltage. ?If, however there were widespread self-discharging but a small number that did not, then those few cells are at risk if a blind charger does not respond to cell voltage reaching a maximum first.? And so, a BMS sending out a stop command to the charger can be useful, and not because the charger itself has failed. ? In my case, I have some 240 cell pairs, all with BMS connections but only maybe once every 12-18months do I ever power these BMS circuits.? I also have not generally been using the BMS to control and limit charging.? Mostly I charge with a CV/CI power supply, start it charging and come back the next day to shut it off.? I do make sure ahead of time that there are no outlier cells that are significantly higher voltage than the rest or that there are too many low outliers which would add up to allow the high cells to get overcharged. ?And I stop charging at 46-48v while the pack is rated for over 49v. ? While this may sound crazy, I also only am charging the pack about once per 2-3months, so we¡¯re only talking 4-9 charge cycles.? I trust the cells themselves more than I trust the leakiness risk of the BMS mosfets (and standby power). ?The downside is that I do see 6 out of 240 cell pairs that significantly drift (again, either self-discharging or discharging thru an unpowered mosfet/load resistor).? And 3 of these are significant---between 100 and 350mv decay in voltage over a year.? It¡¯s important (given I am not powering the BMS circuits always) to consider these decay magnitudes when letting my pack voltage drop to its lower levels.? Yes, I could just trust the BMS cards, and I do, but I do not want to stress them for no reason and risk my pack life due to failed BMS self-discharge.? I personally think it¡¯s more risky to power these BMS cards 365+ days when I really only need to power them before or after the few times I¡¯m going to charge the pack. ? I recently found myself speaking on the phone with a sales engineer for a noted lithium battery manufacturer.? I thought it was an engineer working for my company so I was frank in my opinion about the batteries in question.? I was quite vocal about my opinion that ¡°no self-respecting engineer would design a built-in BMS that is always powered and will self-discharge a battery before the box was ever opened, sitting on the shelf¡±.? The sales engineer for the battery manufacturer appreciated my frankness.? I said, it¡¯s fine to have a BMS that monitors cells when there are no loads on the battery, however it¡¯s not fine to design a system that continues such loading to the point that the low cell voltage is reached. ?Worse, these common 12v lithium batteries will at that point, either blow a fuse or open a mosfet internally that denies ever being able to recharge the cells or use them again.? I.E. the BMS itself ¡°bricks¡± the lithium battery.? I pointed out that even the cheapest of kids toys where ¡°batteries are included¡± include a plastic tab that the user has to pull out before use.? This is to ensure the battery doesn¡¯t self-discharge thru the toy/lamp/whatever.? I also pointed out that this was a ¡°design choice¡± and that a responsible design would instead open up a mosfet that disallowed any further discharge (even internally), but would allow charging.? Laptop computer batteries at least do this somewhat. ? Many or most modern sealed 12v lithium batteries w/self-contained BMS have this same design flaw.? And they internally draw enough current that within 1-2years on the shelf, they become bricks.? So much for long life of lithium. Our BMS circuits will similarly draw power and one needs to consider this.? Mine draw about 1watt each.? If I kept all BMS cards powered continuously, a full pack in my boat would discharge thru the BMS cards in 1500 hours (not to mention the DCDC losses to make the 12v for the BMS cards).? While this sounds like a lot of time, it¡¯s only 2 months!? So it¡¯s important to understand when your BMS is powered, what power it takes, how often you really need it powered and can you sensibly power it only when it¡¯s needed. ? -MT ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Matt Foley
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 8:00 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [electricboats] AGM or LiFePo4 ? To piggy back on what Tom said,? ? Its best practice to have two means of protecting batteries. On the charge side, the charger have the correct charge profile and the BMS is secondary and should only be used as back up in case the charger fails. On the discharge side, the motor controller/inverter should be programmed with the correct voltage settings and the BMS is the failsafe.? ? Unless you are charging at a high C rate (most of us in DIY electric boats are not) you do not need to worry about CVCC. You can just charge with CV and stop. Unlike lead acid, which prefer to be fully charged and even over charged occasionally, lithium prefers to be less than fully charged. They would be perfectly happy sitting at 50% SOC for years.? If using a lead acid charger, turn off the float charge or make it as low as possible. Be certain it does not have an equalization charge. Overcharging lithium just once can and most likely will ruin them, sometimes in a dramatic way.? ? For lifepo4 I stop charging at 3.5 VPC. There is almost no capacity above that voltage. ?If you look at a discharge chart you will see what I mean.?Lifpo4 voltages should not be confused with lithium chemistries with a 4.2 VPC cutoff? ? I typically use? 90% as upper limit and 10% on the low end.? ? ? ? Matt Foley? Sunlight Conversions Perpetual Energy, LLC 201-914-0466 ? ? ? On Tuesday, April 28, 2020, 09:40:12 AM EDT, THOMAS VANDERMEULEN <tvinypsi@...> wrote: ? ? MARTIN: Since you have expertise, I hope you'll agree that the acronym 'BMS' stands for battery management system, but that what some people are referring to as a BMS is actually a battery protection system. |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýTo clarify, I meant you should always use the correct charger with the correct settings and not solely rely on a BMS as your only means of not overcharging on at the pack level. Individual cell monitoring is a whole other discussion.?Matt Foley Sunlight Conversions? 1-201-914-0466 Sunlightconversions.com WeChat: Mattymoonshine Sent from mobile device? On Apr 28, 2020, at 12:47 PM, Myles Twete <matwete@...> wrote:
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Re: AGM or LiFePo4
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI¡¯m not so sure that ¡°the BMS should only be used in case the charger fails¡±---if the charger fails ON, even a BMS will probably be useless to stop it.? Same story for a charger that fails by allowing pack to discharge into the charger after shutting down.? Ignoring the charger failure scenarios, a BMS is useful during charging in 2 or 3 ways: ¡¤?????? Identifying that a cell has reached a maximum voltage and informing the charger so it can shut charge current OFF ¡¤?????? Cell balancing (typically by bypassing current around full cells) ¡¤?????? Allowing charging to restart after cell imbalance corrected ? The basic CV/CI charger is blind to what is happening at the individual cell level, while a BMS cell monitor/manager is cognizant at that level.? And while it is important that the BMS is commonly referred to as being used to ¡°balance¡± all the cells, they often can and should provide critical information, data or control to the charging system to ensure against overcharging a single cell.? Yes, wildly out-of-balance cells should not be expected if a BMS has been managing cells regularly or at least occasionally.? But they can happen.? Fortunately, the outliers are usually ¡°leaky¡± or perhaps most common, self-discharging or discharging thru leaky BMS mosfets.? And so a single or a few low cells won¡¯t cause much of an increase in charged cell voltage for the rest of the majority of cells at the final charge voltage. ?If, however there were widespread self-discharging but a small number that did not, then those few cells are at risk if a blind charger does not respond to cell voltage reaching a maximum first.? And so, a BMS sending out a stop command to the charger can be useful, and not because the charger itself has failed. ? In my case, I have some 240 cell pairs, all with BMS connections but only maybe once every 12-18months do I ever power these BMS circuits.? I also have not generally been using the BMS to control and limit charging.? Mostly I charge with a CV/CI power supply, start it charging and come back the next day to shut it off.? I do make sure ahead of time that there are no outlier cells that are significantly higher voltage than the rest or that there are too many low outliers which would add up to allow the high cells to get overcharged. ?And I stop charging at 46-48v while the pack is rated for over 49v. ? While this may sound crazy, I also only am charging the pack about once per 2-3months, so we¡¯re only talking 4-9 charge cycles.? I trust the cells themselves more than I trust the leakiness risk of the BMS mosfets (and standby power). ?The downside is that I do see 6 out of 240 cell pairs that significantly drift (again, either self-discharging or discharging thru an unpowered mosfet/load resistor).? And 3 of these are significant---between 100 and 350mv decay in voltage over a year.? It¡¯s important (given I am not powering the BMS circuits always) to consider these decay magnitudes when letting my pack voltage drop to its lower levels.? Yes, I could just trust the BMS cards, and I do, but I do not want to stress them for no reason and risk my pack life due to failed BMS self-discharge.? I personally think it¡¯s more risky to power these BMS cards 365+ days when I really only need to power them before or after the few times I¡¯m going to charge the pack. ? I recently found myself speaking on the phone with a sales engineer for a noted lithium battery manufacturer.? I thought it was an engineer working for my company so I was frank in my opinion about the batteries in question.? I was quite vocal about my opinion that ¡°no self-respecting engineer would design a built-in BMS that is always powered and will self-discharge a battery before the box was ever opened, sitting on the shelf¡±.? The sales engineer for the battery manufacturer appreciated my frankness.? I said, it¡¯s fine to have a BMS that monitors cells when there are no loads on the battery, however it¡¯s not fine to design a system that continues such loading to the point that the low cell voltage is reached. ?Worse, these common 12v lithium batteries will at that point, either blow a fuse or open a mosfet internally that denies ever being able to recharge the cells or use them again.? I.E. the BMS itself ¡°bricks¡± the lithium battery.? I pointed out that even the cheapest of kids toys where ¡°batteries are included¡± include a plastic tab that the user has to pull out before use.? This is to ensure the battery doesn¡¯t self-discharge thru the toy/lamp/whatever.? I also pointed out that this was a ¡°design choice¡± and that a responsible design would instead open up a mosfet that disallowed any further discharge (even internally), but would allow charging.? Laptop computer batteries at least do this somewhat. ? Many or most modern sealed 12v lithium batteries w/self-contained BMS have this same design flaw.? And they internally draw enough current that within 1-2years on the shelf, they become bricks.? So much for long life of lithium. Our BMS circuits will similarly draw power and one needs to consider this.? Mine draw about 1watt each.? If I kept all BMS cards powered continuously, a full pack in my boat would discharge thru the BMS cards in 1500 hours (not to mention the DCDC losses to make the 12v for the BMS cards).? While this sounds like a lot of time, it¡¯s only 2 months!? So it¡¯s important to understand when your BMS is powered, what power it takes, how often you really need it powered and can you sensibly power it only when it¡¯s needed. ? -MT ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Matt Foley
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 8:00 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [electricboats] AGM or LiFePo4 ? To piggy back on what Tom said,? ? Its best practice to have two means of protecting batteries. On the charge side, the charger have the correct charge profile and the BMS is secondary and should only be used as back up in case the charger fails. On the discharge side, the motor controller/inverter should be programmed with the correct voltage settings and the BMS is the failsafe.? ? Unless you are charging at a high C rate (most of us in DIY electric boats are not) you do not need to worry about CVCC. You can just charge with CV and stop. Unlike lead acid, which prefer to be fully charged and even over charged occasionally, lithium prefers to be less than fully charged. They would be perfectly happy sitting at 50% SOC for years.? If using a lead acid charger, turn off the float charge or make it as low as possible. Be certain it does not have an equalization charge. Overcharging lithium just once can and most likely will ruin them, sometimes in a dramatic way.? ? For lifepo4 I stop charging at 3.5 VPC. There is almost no capacity above that voltage. ?If you look at a discharge chart you will see what I mean.?Lifpo4 voltages should not be confused with lithium chemistries with a 4.2 VPC cutoff? ? I typically use? 90% as upper limit and 10% on the low end.? ? ? ? Matt Foley? Sunlight Conversions Perpetual Energy, LLC 201-914-0466 ? ? ? On Tuesday, April 28, 2020, 09:40:12 AM EDT, THOMAS VANDERMEULEN <tvinypsi@...> wrote: ? ? MARTIN: Since you have expertise, I hope you'll agree that the acronym 'BMS' stands for battery management system, but that what some people are referring to as a BMS is actually a battery protection system. |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
To piggy back on what Tom said,? Its best practice to have two means of protecting batteries. On the charge side, the charger have the correct charge profile and the BMS is secondary and should only be used as back up in case the charger fails. On the discharge side, the motor controller/inverter should be programmed with the correct voltage settings and the BMS is the failsafe.? Unless you are charging at a high C rate (most of us in DIY electric boats are not) you do not need to worry about CVCC. You can just charge with CV and stop. Unlike lead acid, which prefer to be fully charged and even over charged occasionally, lithium prefers to be less than fully charged. They would be perfectly happy sitting at 50% SOC for years.? If using a lead acid charger, turn off the float charge or make it as low as possible. Be certain it does not have an equalization charge. Overcharging lithium just once can and most likely will ruin them, sometimes in a dramatic way.? For lifepo4 I stop charging at 3.5 VPC. There is almost no capacity above that voltage. ?If you look at a discharge chart you will see what I mean.?Lifpo4 voltages should not be confused with lithium chemistries with a 4.2 VPC cutoff? I typically use? 90% as upper limit and 10% on the low end.? Matt Foley? Sunlight Conversions Perpetual Energy, LLC 201-914-0466 ![]()
On Tuesday, April 28, 2020, 09:40:12 AM EDT, THOMAS VANDERMEULEN <tvinypsi@...> wrote:
MARTIN: Since you have expertise, I hope you'll agree that the acronym 'BMS' stands for battery management system, but that what some people are referring to as a BMS is actually a battery protection system. A BMS that's suitable for a 16 cell, LiFePO4 prismatic pack, such as might be found aboard a sailboat -- such as the Orion Jr. or the Dilithium BMSC from Thunderstruck -- would provide for measuring and reporting individual cell voltages; balancing the cell voltages within the pack; and also often the ability to measure cell or pack temperature.? The Orion Jr even implements charger control in a single unit, while the Dilithium units from Thunderstruck separate the two functions -- BMS & charge control -- into two different units, but enables using two different modes of communication between the two devices, including CAN. in contrast, the typical "BMS" that's embedded in 48v battery packs used for electric bicycles, for instance, provides only for the overcharge protection to shut off charging when voltage reaches the safe operating limit, and low voltage protection to shut off discharging to load when voltage drops to the safe operating level for that battery pack. In the case of battery protection circuits, it's possible for individual cells to get out of balance relative to one another, such that one cell will reach full charge voltage before the others in a pack.? The protection circuit cuts off charging due to the high cell voltage cut-off, and the remaining cells will be less than fully charged. Many of the ElectricBoat members are familiar with everything I've just mentioned, but it may be useful to repeat the information as new members come aboard. Fair Winds to all! [-tv] Tom VanderMeulen "Grace O'Malley" Cape Dory 27 Monroe, Michi. |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
MARTIN: Since you have expertise, I hope you'll agree that the acronym 'BMS' stands for battery management system, but that what some people are referring to as a BMS is actually a battery protection system.
A BMS that's suitable for a 16 cell, LiFePO4 prismatic pack, such as might be found aboard a sailboat -- such as the Orion Jr. or the Dilithium BMSC from Thunderstruck -- would provide for measuring and reporting individual cell voltages; balancing the cell voltages within the pack; and also often the ability to measure cell or pack temperature.? The Orion Jr even implements charger control in a single unit, while the Dilithium units from Thunderstruck separate the two functions -- BMS & charge control -- into two different units, but enables using two different modes of communication between the two devices, including CAN. in contrast, the typical "BMS" that's embedded in 48v battery packs used for electric bicycles, for instance, provides only for the overcharge protection to shut off charging when voltage reaches the safe operating limit, and low voltage protection to shut off discharging to load when voltage drops to the safe operating level for that battery pack. In the case of battery protection circuits, it's possible for individual cells to get out of balance relative to one another, such that one cell will reach full charge voltage before the others in a pack.? The protection circuit cuts off charging due to the high cell voltage cut-off, and the remaining cells will be less than fully charged. Many of the ElectricBoat members are familiar with everything I've just mentioned, but it may be useful to repeat the information as new members come aboard. Fair Winds to all! [-tv] Tom VanderMeulen "Grace O'Malley" Cape Dory 27 Monroe, Michi. |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
Some bms can be customized to have a high and low bms cut offs like the ant bms I use But since I draw too many amps I cannot use it unless I add an external contactor (maybe one day...) So I just use it for balance From the little I know u need cc-cv charger (I think even lead acid chargers use cc-cv but different bulk charging?) I had a old lead acid charger that the manufacture changed to lithium charger, so it can be done? Not sure how it was done.. If your happy with like 5-10 ? amps charging there are solar buck/boost green chargers u can buy off eBay for 30-40$ that can use variable dc input like old computer power supply and give you variable dc cc-cv output? Ant bms..I use 32s but don¡¯t need to use all of them. ?? Charger. ? I¡¯m no expert but these have worked for me and my budget?
On Tuesday, April 28, 2020, 03:32:01 AM PDT, greenpjs04 <forums@...> wrote:
Wow!? Thank you for all the responses.? I will investigate all your suggestions further.? One topic that came up but has me confused is the BMS needed for LiFePo4 batteries.? From past research, I know that some cells offered for sale are just that - cells without any BMS.? To use those, I would have to add a BMS designed for LiFePo4 chemistry.? DualPro's website says their chargers "can" be programmed for LiFePo4 but I doubt that applies to my 10 year old AGM charger. So, moving on to the LiFePo4 battery packs with built in BMS's, how does one charge those?? I found very little detail mentioned. Just things like "Includes BMS!" and similar claims.? Can any charger with a voltage above the battery voltage be used to charge these batteries?? In other words, does the internal BMS fully protect the batteries by handling charge rate and monitoring state of charge to avoid over-charging? Pat |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMartin, Thank you.? You have answered a lot of my questions.? Regarding my AGM charger, it may be even worse than "sub-optimal".? That charger finishes its charging cycle with a desulfation process that would be of no use to LiFePo4 batteries.? In addition, that charger is known to shut down when the battery doesn't act as expected.? It might just assume the new battery is a bad AGM battery once the internal BMS stops accepting a charge. ? On 4/28/2020 7:58 AM, martin Thacker
wrote:
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Re: AGM or LiFePo4
I've been working on a team in Germany developing some lithium?batteries and BMS for outdoor and marine usage. There are huge differences in BMS quality and feature sets but what almost every Lithium BMS would do for you is to cut off charging to the batteries when they reach a??pre determined?100% charge level to prevent you from overcharging the?pack. For LiFePO4 this will be about 3.65v for a single cell or for a 4 Series 12.8V pack that would be 14.6V.? ?? I don't have so much experience with AGM but your AGM charger is probably putting out 14.4 - 14.8V which is so close to the 14.6V that it would not be a big problem for you I would think,?not dangerous in any case.? Your BMS will shut off the charge to your batteries so that they don't go above that 14.6 level once it has been reached so?there is no risk of over charging the battery.? ?Your AGM charger will probably try to taper the charge according to a profile set for AGM so it would be sub optimal for LiFePO4.?? On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 12:31 PM greenpjs04 <forums@...> wrote: Wow!? Thank you for all the responses.? I will investigate all your |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
Wow!? Thank you for all the responses.? I will investigate all your suggestions further.? One topic that came up but has me confused is the BMS needed for LiFePo4 batteries.? From past research, I know that some cells offered for sale are just that - cells without any BMS.? To use those, I would have to add a BMS designed for LiFePo4 chemistry.? DualPro's website says their chargers "can" be programmed for LiFePo4 but I doubt that applies to my 10 year old AGM charger.
So, moving on to the LiFePo4 battery packs with built in BMS's, how does one charge those?? I found very little detail mentioned. Just things like "Includes BMS!" and similar claims.? Can any charger with a voltage above the battery voltage be used to charge these batteries?? In other words, does the internal BMS fully protect the batteries by handling charge rate and monitoring state of charge to avoid over-charging? Pat |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
Bill Farina
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýValence 12.8V are going for $350ea at Thunderstruck. The BMS is $250. For the batteries, this seems high.On 4/27/2020 2:27 PM, Brian wrote:
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Re: AGM or LiFePo4
I still use flooded lead acid --- on a 1920 Milburn electric car I own.
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Its Interstate golf cart (T105 style) batteries are pushing 9 years now (time flies). Last year I wanted to drive the ol' car to work (16mi one way) and back. But I didn't have much confidence in the batteries. Over a weekend, I charged the batteries, first with golf-cart 25amp chargers (one 48v, the other 36v---pack is 84v) but the charging stopped without too many amp-hours put in. So I switched to my nom. 106v current-limited power supply, which didn't add a whole lot either. Checking the cells, I found that the electrolyte levels weren't very good at all. What could I do? Well, get my 50amp current limited 12v charger and put it across each 6v battery, that's what! Actually, that charger had recently had something go out on it so it was not voltage-limiting at 14-15v and was instead putting out maybe 20v. So after rebuilding the charger's cables to handle the 50amps, I turned on this charger and clipped it across each pair or triplet of series batteries, pumping high current into them until I just started to smell outgassing, or the "burping" in the cells was getting too lively or contacts getting warm or the volts per cell changes suggested it's time to disconnect. I repeated for each of the 7 pairs of batteries. The result: After doing this, driving the car around, then repeating this treatment, the electrolyte levels of every cell returned to the GOOD range. And the ordinary golf cart chargers then did their job better after. Ultimately, there was plenty of juice to get me to the car show at work, where the car one Best In Show :-). I drove it to work another day or two later also. Bottom line: Don't ignore the risks of sulfation of PbA batteries that are not cycled with any regularity. And to recover these, you need to do more than put a standard charger on them since the voltage-limitation will not allow the clearing of the sulfation. Some badly sulfated batteries appear completely dead unless hit with 50-150vDC (current limited of course) to get the current to start flowing. And even then, if you monitor the voltage, you'll find that the voltage actually "drops" as the battery charges. Be very mindful of temperature and outgassing, particularly if you are trying to bring capacity back to a sealed- or AGM battery. Any sulfur released is not coming back---and you need that sulfuric acid. -MT -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Matthew Geier Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 1:47 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [electricboats] AGM or LiFePo4 On 28/4/20 12:43 am, greenpjs04 wrote: . The Torqeedo would shut down due to "depleted batteries", but I was always able to turn it off and then back on where upon I could return home at a slower pace.I'm in the same position, after 10 years my Trojan flooded T145s are showing 'voltage depression' rather rapidly. They will have to be replaced before next season. I'm sort of in the sane position, replace the Trojans with the same or switch to one of the modern Li chemistries. |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
On 28/4/20 12:43 am, greenpjs04 wrote:
. The Torqeedo would shut down due to "depleted batteries", but I was always able to turn it off and then back on where upon I could return home at a slower pace.I'm in the same position, after 10 years my Trojan flooded T145s are showing 'voltage depression' rather rapidly. They will have to be replaced before next season. I'm sort of in the sane position, replace the Trojans with the same or switch to one of the modern Li chemistries. |
Re: AGM or LiFePo4
It was explained to me by a local battery authority that Charging method changes. Constant voltage is agm charge method.? ?Constant current -constant voltage is lifepo4 charge method. It can charge with either method but gains cycle life with the cc-cv method.? I hope this helps? ?thank? you? ?kind regards Larry Schmitz
?Terminalift LLC 9444 Mission Park Place Santee, CA 92071 Ph: (619) 562-0355 F: (619) 562-2060
On Monday, April 27, 2020, 09:50:23 AM PDT, Phil Boyer via groups.io <philaboyer@...> wrote:
I have 10KW of LifePo4 batteries on order from China and are due to land in Toronto first week of May. My cost so far was $2600 Canadian or $1900 US. I have not cleared customs yet so not sure what the duty and taxes will be. My question is why do you need a different charger as mentioned below? The LifePo4 cells can be charged to 3.65 volts max so is there another factor I am not thinking of? Phil
On Monday, April 27, 2020, 11:49:32 a.m. EDT, L Schmitz via groups.io <terminalift@...> wrote:
Hello Pat,? I did the upgrade last year. I went from 4? 12v 220 ah agm to? ?lifepo4? ? I put together 4 battery boxes with? 3.2v 90ah cylinder cells. 4P4S for each box. Then in series for 48v system. You will need a bms and a different? charger? This is a cool upgrade and not too difficult.. I am able to monitor the batteries in charge and discharge mode at any given time with my I phone.? I have great continuous run time and overnite charging with? my dock power. I can suggest a couple sources depending on east or west coast usa.;? I hope this helps.? thank you? best regards Larry Schmitz
?Terminalift LLC 9444 Mission Park Place Santee, CA 92071 Ph: (619) 562-0355 F: (619) 562-2060
On Monday, April 27, 2020, 08:03:54 AM PDT, sw via groups.io <v1opps@...> wrote:
Is that 24v or 48v? Can buy surpluses Tesla ,?leaf or other?packs too On Monday, April 27, 2020, 07:43, greenpjs04 <forums@...> wrote:
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