120V/8.10KW AC induction motor controller for EV
Hi guys i'm new here and need some help here..... i got a motor (10kw 96v) and with it come this controller. i don't have the manual for the controller so i try to get the hole harness from the motor following where the wire go but i was only able to identified 3 Throttle wire cable. the rest was not possible to find out. i open the controller to see where every cable go and made this drawing. What i need to know is 1: how to activate the controller 2: how to switch from frond to reverse . Any help will be highly appreciated
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I need a machinist, or access to a milling machine to make a gearbox for my electric motor. Preferably someone in Virginia. Recommendations, please.
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Re: Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
I did ask, and I really appreciate the information, Dave. Very helpful!!
MC
On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 10:52 PM Dave Yamakuchi via <dyamakuchi= [email protected]> wrote: Chris, well, you asked bud :-)
They don't tin the harnesses on cars because: cost.? I'd bet if you pulled apart a Bentley's wiring harness, you find it, but cheap cars drive many years on salted roads and along coasts without failures.? Tinning's not the be all end all, it's just another of the million variables.? The connections are _way_ more important.? Tinning costs a few bucks.? On a lot of wire, that can add significant cost.
Stranding is another variable.? The same gage conductors can have almost an infinite variety of stranding options.? Especially with big wires.? The tiny strands fail by corrosion much faster than the larger ones.? That evil green chews right through small strands.? Yet, there's a lot more of them, the extra surface area reduces inductance, and they're more flexible too, so they'll also last _longer_ against repeated flexing.??
There's no one right answer. A simple, 'design' perspective might be:? Corrosion is an exposed surface area phenomenon.
As a practical matter, catastrophic failures are maybe 80-90% _connection_ failures, at least re: corrosion. With essentially all types of electrical systems.? Maybe even 95%. Depending. I'm estimating, obviously.??
'Ageing' of the conductors themselves is the one wire sales people talk about naturally, but that's the 5%, not the 90%.
There's crazy factors too if you really want extreme, extreme.? For instance: if you temperature cycle widely far below zero C, particularly, but not exclusively,?in a vacuum, then tin pest is a big problem, and tinning will likely have you needing to place physical barriers, like conformal coating, like shrinkwrap in such a way as to prevent it.? Thank NASA for figuring that one out.? The tin 'grows tin whiskers,' which is just like it sounds.? Not what you want conductors doing.? But mostly only on satellites, and at the poles.
If you want to eliminate most of the downside of having bare copper wire vs. tinned:
1) Mechanically connect good, watertight terminals to the bare copper wire.? Crimp, screw, whatever they gotta do.? You want a good mechanical grip on the copper somehow.? First.
2)? Then, get a big enough iron and solder the connections. If you're not good at soldering then get help. You _must_ connect them, without solder, first though.? I cannot stress this enough.? Connections can get very hot at high current.? Yes, hot enough to melt solder.? Mechanical connection is essential.
3) Clean the connections after soldering with isopropyl alcohol really, really good. Rosin flux is somewhat corrosive, but soulble in iso. (An old toothbrush is helpful for this.). Do not use acid core.? That's bad.
4) Make sure you shrinkwrap those suckers afterwards.? Keeping the moisture/environment away from the bare? is the key.? Shrink tube helps.
That said, usually most insulation is pretty much completely watertight at least until it's got even so much as a pinhole.? So, protect your conductors well, like for instance in a conduit, and the moisture can only get in through the ends, and would then still have to migrate past your tinned area first.
I hope this helps! On Thu, Jan 13, 2022 at 12:26 PM, Chris Hill Ah, yeah - mine does, too: "#4 SAE COPPER 105 CENTIGRADE." ? I took off the heat shrink and discovered that it isn't tinned copper, so it will fail sooner. Here is an article I found on a quick search:
Technically, SAE
(Society of Automotive Engineering) cable would work, but it is not the most appropriate solution.?
I'd be interested in any other input on this issue. I'm a bit concerned that these components are being sold as solutions for aquatic/marine environments. -MC
MC I've checked and the jacket says copper.?
Jorge?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 1/12/22 21:52 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Hey Jorge --
I am also doing a conversion with a kit from Thunderstruck.
Did you happen to check the? cables they sent to see if it's tinned copper or just copper? Thanks!
MC
Dan, thanks for the post. The details are very helpful indeed. I'm in the process of doing a diesel to electric conversion using the 10kw Thunderstruck sail boat kit. I have a question for you what length and gage wire are you using for the connection from batteries to controller.? Thanks,? Jorge?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 12/31/21 01:37 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Thanks for the comments.? Happy to give back a little of what I have gotten from this group.?
I spent some time this evening adding more info and photos.? I'll likely split this all into smaller pages but for now it all starts here:
Dan Pfeiffer
On 2021-12-30 4:58 pm, Günter W?ckener wrote:
Dan, thank you very much for information and data.
--
-- "What a strange machine man is!
You fill him with bread, wine, fish, and
radishes,
and out come sighs, laughter, and dreams."
-Nikos Kazantzakis,
poet and novelist
(18 Feb 1883-1957)
|
Re: Electric Drive Update
My solar cat is in Key Largo Florida.?
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Re: Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Chris, well, you asked bud :-)
They don't tin the harnesses on cars because: cost.? I'd bet if you pulled apart a Bentley's wiring harness, you find it, but cheap cars drive many years on salted roads and along coasts without failures.? Tinning's not the be all end all, it's just another of the million variables.? The connections are _way_ more important.? Tinning costs a few bucks.? On a lot of wire, that can add significant cost.
Stranding is another variable.? The same gage conductors can have almost an infinite variety of stranding options.? Especially with big wires.? The tiny strands fail by corrosion much faster than the larger ones.? That evil green chews right through small strands.? Yet, there's a lot more of them, the extra surface area reduces inductance, and they're more flexible too, so they'll also last _longer_ against repeated flexing.??
There's no one right answer. A simple, 'design' perspective might be:? Corrosion is an exposed surface area phenomenon.
As a practical matter, catastrophic failures are maybe 80-90% _connection_ failures, at least re: corrosion. With essentially all types of electrical systems.? Maybe even 95%. Depending. I'm estimating, obviously.??
'Ageing' of the conductors themselves is the one wire sales people talk about naturally, but that's the 5%, not the 90%.
There's crazy factors too if you really want extreme, extreme.? For instance: if you temperature cycle widely far below zero C, particularly, but not exclusively,?in a vacuum, then tin pest is a big problem, and tinning will likely have you needing to place physical barriers, like conformal coating, like shrinkwrap in such a way as to prevent it.? Thank NASA for figuring that one out.? The tin 'grows tin whiskers,' which is just like it sounds.? Not what you want conductors doing.? But mostly only on satellites, and at the poles.
If you want to eliminate most of the downside of having bare copper wire vs. tinned:
1) Mechanically connect good, watertight terminals to the bare copper wire.? Crimp, screw, whatever they gotta do.? You want a good mechanical grip on the copper somehow.? First.
2)? Then, get a big enough iron and solder the connections. If you're not good at soldering then get help. You _must_ connect them, without solder, first though.? I cannot stress this enough.? Connections can get very hot at high current.? Yes, hot enough to melt solder.? Mechanical connection is essential.
3) Clean the connections after soldering with isopropyl alcohol really, really good. Rosin flux is somewhat corrosive, but soulble in iso. (An old toothbrush is helpful for this.). Do not use acid core.? That's bad.
4) Make sure you shrinkwrap those suckers afterwards.? Keeping the moisture/environment away from the bare? is the key.? Shrink tube helps.
That said, usually most insulation is pretty much completely watertight at least until it's got even so much as a pinhole.? So, protect your conductors well, like for instance in a conduit, and the moisture can only get in through the ends, and would then still have to migrate past your tinned area first.
On Thu, Jan 13, 2022 at 12:26 PM, Chris Hill <m.chris.hill@...> wrote: Ah, yeah - mine does, too: "#4 SAE COPPER 105 CENTIGRADE." ? I took off the heat shrink and discovered that it isn't tinned copper, so it will fail sooner. Here is an article I found on a quick search:
Technically, SAE
(Society of Automotive Engineering) cable would work, but it is not the most appropriate solution.?
I'd be interested in any other input on this issue. I'm a bit concerned that these components are being sold as solutions for aquatic/marine environments. -MC
MC I've checked and the jacket says copper.?
Jorge?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 1/12/22 21:52 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Hey Jorge --
I am also doing a conversion with a kit from Thunderstruck.
Did you happen to check the? cables they sent to see if it's tinned copper or just copper? Thanks!
MC
Dan, thanks for the post. The details are very helpful indeed. I'm in the process of doing a diesel to electric conversion using the 10kw Thunderstruck sail boat kit. I have a question for you what length and gage wire are you using for the connection from batteries to controller.? Thanks,? Jorge?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 12/31/21 01:37 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Thanks for the comments.? Happy to give back a little of what I have gotten from this group.?
I spent some time this evening adding more info and photos.? I'll likely split this all into smaller pages but for now it all starts here:
Dan Pfeiffer
On 2021-12-30 4:58 pm, Günter W?ckener wrote:
Dan, thank you very much for information and data.
--
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Re: Electric Drive Update
I just added a bunch of photos and descriptions of the mechanical parts in my drive unit here:
There's links to the other stuff at the top.
Still more to come as I find time to post it...
Dan Pfeiffer
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On 2022-01-14 4:54 pm, john winterrowd via groups.io wrote:
Pics please, im starting our catamaran repower in a few weeks, need all the components and where you bought them. I will post pics of our project as it happens.?
?
?
-------- Original message --------
From: Dan Pfeiffer <dan@...>
Date: 1/14/22 3:48 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update
?
The Kubota motor was removed from a brand new Kubota excavator that was converted to all-electric.? So it is used with maybe 1hr of running time.? 2019 dates on the tags.?
?
The Motenergy ME1616 motor is water cooled.? Same motor I am using for propulsion.?? I also have a closed circuit FWC system with heat exchanger as I do for the drive motor.?
Where are you located?? I am in USA, OH on Lake Erie.?
Dan Pfeiffer
On 2022-01-14 3:21 pm, Reuben Trane via groups.io wrote:
I did much the same. I used a Motenergy motor direct to the flywheel of a Farymann diesel I salvaged from a Westerbeke 4kW generator. At 3,600 RPM it didn't get high enough voltage to charge.?
then I purchased a PMAC generator on ebay and belted it to the Farymann producing plenty of volts. Over the summer the Farymann froze up solid - so out she came.?
Next was a cheap gas "range extender" from AliExpress. It worked fine until it caught on fire.?
I assume that your Kubota is used? Or new? Is the Motenergy Motor ?water cooled? My drive motors are water cooled so I have a closed circuit fresh water cooled by a heat exchanger using SES water and 2 pumps.?
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Re: Electric Drive Update
Pics please, im starting our catamaran repower in a few weeks, need all the components and where you bought them. I will post pics of our project as it happens.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Dan Pfeiffer <dan@...> Date: 1/14/22 3:48 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update
The Kubota motor was removed from a brand new Kubota excavator that was converted to all-electric.? So it is used with maybe 1hr of running time.? 2019 dates on the tags.?
?
The Motenergy ME1616 motor is water cooled.? Same motor I am using for propulsion.?? I also have a closed circuit FWC system with heat exchanger as I do for the drive motor.?
Where are you located?? I am in USA, OH on Lake Erie.?
Dan Pfeiffer
On 2022-01-14 3:21 pm, Reuben Trane via groups.io wrote:
I did much the same. I used a Motenergy motor direct to the flywheel of a Farymann diesel I salvaged from a Westerbeke 4kW generator. At 3,600 RPM it didn’t get high enough voltage to charge.?
then I purchased a PMAC generator on ebay and belted it to the Farymann producing plenty of volts. Over the summer the Farymann froze up solid - so out she came.?
Next was a cheap gas “range extender” from AliExpress. It worked fine until it caught on fire.?
I assume that your Kubota is used? Or new? Is the Motenergy Motor ?water cooled? My drive motors are water cooled so I have a closed circuit fresh water cooled by a heat exchanger using SES water and 2 pumps.?
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Re: Electric Drive Update
The Kubota motor was removed from a brand new Kubota excavator that was converted to all-electric.? So it is used with maybe 1hr of running time.? 2019 dates on the tags.?
?
The Motenergy ME1616 motor is water cooled.? Same motor I am using for propulsion.?? I also have a closed circuit FWC system with heat exchanger as I do for the drive motor.?
Where are you located?? I am in USA, OH on Lake Erie.?
Dan Pfeiffer
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Show quoted text
On 2022-01-14 3:21 pm, Reuben Trane via groups.io wrote:
I did much the same. I used a Motenergy motor direct to the flywheel of a Farymann diesel I salvaged from a Westerbeke 4kW generator. At 3,600 RPM it didn’t get high enough voltage to charge.?
then I purchased a PMAC generator on ebay and belted it to the Farymann producing plenty of volts. Over the summer the Farymann froze up solid - so out she came.?
Next was a cheap gas “range extender” from AliExpress. It worked fine until it caught on fire.?
I assume that your Kubota is used? Or new? Is the Motenergy Motor ?water cooled? My drive motors are water cooled so I have a closed circuit fresh water cooled by a heat exchanger using SES water and 2 pumps.?
|
Re: Electric Drive Update
I did much the same. I used a Motenergy motor direct to the flywheel of a Farymann diesel I salvaged from a Westerbeke 4kW generator. At 3,600 RPM it didn’t get high enough voltage to charge.?
then I purchased a PMAC generator on ebay and belted it to the Farymann producing plenty of volts. Over the summer the Farymann froze up solid - so out she came.?
Next was a cheap gas “range extender” from AliExpress. It worked fine until it caught on fire.?
I assume that your Kubota is used? Or new? Is the Motenergy Motor ?water cooled? My drive motors are water cooled so I have a closed circuit fresh water cooled by a heat exchanger using SES water and 2 pumps.?
|
Re: Electric Drive Update
Basic goal of diesel genset is to provide enough continuous power to run at 6 knots.??? That's 85% hull speed.
When I was still conceiving my system I estimated it would take 7200 watts for 6 knots.? I purchase a Kubota 722 3cyl engine rated at 12kW (16HP) @ 2200RPM and a 12kW ME1616 motor that is rated at .026V/rpm as a 3 phase generator (if I am interpreting that rating correctly).?? Charging voltage would be about 57 volts so that's 2192 RPM.? A very good match.? Output from this BLDC generator could be in the 95% efficiency range as I understand it.? So I should be able to get 10kW from this setup accounting for losses from rectifier and regulator.?
After building my electric drive I found it to be more efficient than predicted and I can make 6 knots at about 5000 Watts. So perhaps I could get 6 knots with a 6kW generator rather than 10.? But it would be running at close to 100% to do that.? I would rather be able to back off a bit to 65 or 70% where the diesel will still be happy but I have some headroom.? So my 10kW unit still makes sense.
In general I think the entire electric drive system should be designed so you don't need to run at 100% to get the speed you need.? And you need to be realistic about that speed.? Loafing along at 3 knots is not practical unless all you need is daysailing from a protected small boat harbor with no real current or ship traffic to deal with.?
So far I have about $3300 in the components for my genset.? I don't expect it would go much past $5000 total and I should be good for 10kW?? I have more research to do for that and I need to source a rectifier and regulator and fabricate a cooling system.
Dan Pfeiffer
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On 2022-01-14 1:04 pm, Reuben Trane via groups.io wrote:
What are your 48VDC generator goals? KW? Marine diesel HP? I have fooled around trying to do the same with a spotty record of success.?
I have found a company doing a 200A/48VDC (10kW) with a snazzy iPad app to control LFP charging. Quoted 8,000 Euros. Much better price than the Fischer Panda 11kW 48vdc unit. ._,_._,
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Re: Electric Drive Update
What are your 48VDC generator goals? KW? Marine diesel HP? I have fooled around trying to do the same with a spotty record of success.?
I have found a company doing a 200A/48VDC (10kW) with a snazzy iPad app to control LFP charging. Quoted 8,000 Euros. Much better price than the Fischer Panda 11kW 48vdc unit.?
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Re: Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Ah, yeah - mine does, too: "#4 SAE COPPER 105 CENTIGRADE." ? I took off the heat shrink and discovered that it isn't tinned copper, so it will fail sooner. Here is an article I found on a quick search:
Technically, SAE
(Society of Automotive Engineering) cable would work, but it is not the most appropriate solution.?
I'd be interested in any other input on this issue. I'm a bit concerned that these components are being sold as solutions for aquatic/marine environments. -MC
MC I've checked and the jacket says copper.?
Jorge?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 1/12/22 21:52 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Hey Jorge --
I am also doing a conversion with a kit from Thunderstruck.
Did you happen to check the? cables they sent to see if it's tinned copper or just copper? Thanks!
MC
Dan, thanks for the post. The details are very helpful indeed. I'm in the process of doing a diesel to electric conversion using the 10kw Thunderstruck sail boat kit. I have a question for you what length and gage wire are you using for the connection from batteries to controller.? Thanks,? Jorge?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 12/31/21 01:37 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Thanks for the comments.? Happy to give back a little of what I have gotten from this group.?
I spent some time this evening adding more info and photos.? I'll likely split this all into smaller pages but for now it all starts here:
Dan Pfeiffer
On 2021-12-30 4:58 pm, Günter W?ckener wrote:
Dan, thank you very much for information and data.
--
|
Re: Electric Drive Update
I had the same thing in mind regarding the coupler when I was considering the Thunderstruck drive unit.? Alignment becomes more critical but that is not hard and worth the effort.?
Dan Pfeiffer
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On 2022-01-13 11:20 am, jesper.malmberg86@... wrote:
On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 11:27 AM, Dan Pfeiffer wrote:
ater efficiency loss but is easier to source parts I think.?? DC is simpler parts wise and you don't need as large a charger.?? But I still need to sort out what I will d
Thanks for that explanation, looking forward to follow your progress on the genset. I was looking at this as well but as you say there are very few economical DC gensets, especially at 48v. I recall seeing something on aliexpress that would fit the bill but not sure about the quality. Good input on the shaft bearings, I will have a look at those. I didn't end up using the chain-coupler from TS and went with a solid one and a flexible insert instead. Thank you, Jesper
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Re: Electric Drive Update
On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 11:27 AM, Dan Pfeiffer wrote:
ater efficiency loss but is easier to source parts I think.?? DC is simpler parts wise and you don't need as large a charger.?? But I still need to sort out what I will d
Thanks for that explanation, looking forward to follow your progress on the genset. I was looking at this as well but as you say there are very few economical DC gensets, especially at 48v. I recall seeing something on aliexpress that would fit the bill but not sure about the quality. Good input on the shaft bearings, I will have a look at those. I didn't end up using the chain-coupler from TS and went with a solid one and a flexible insert instead. Thank you, Jesper
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Re: Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
MC I've checked and the jacket says copper.?
Jorge?
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-------- Original message -------- From: Chris Hill <m.chris.hill@...> Date: 1/12/22 21:52 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Hey Jorge --
I am also doing a conversion with a kit from Thunderstruck.
Did you happen to check the? cables they sent to see if it's tinned copper or just copper? Thanks!
MC
Dan, thanks for the post. The details are very helpful indeed. I'm in the process of doing a diesel to electric conversion using the 10kw Thunderstruck sail boat kit. I have a question for you what length and gage wire are you using for the connection from batteries to controller.? Thanks,? Jorge?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 12/31/21 01:37 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Thanks for the comments.? Happy to give back a little of what I have gotten from this group.?
I spent some time this evening adding more info and photos.? I'll likely split this all into smaller pages but for now it all starts here:
Dan Pfeiffer
On 2021-12-30 4:58 pm, Günter W?ckener wrote:
Dan, thank you very much for information and data.
-- "What a strange machine man is!
You fill him with bread, wine, fish, and
radishes,
and out come sighs, laughter, and dreams."
-Nikos Kazantzakis,
poet and novelist
(18 Feb 1883-1957)
|
Re: Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Hey Jorge --
I am also doing a conversion with a kit from Thunderstruck.
Did you happen to check the? cables they sent to see if it's tinned copper or just copper? Thanks!
MC
Dan, thanks for the post. The details are very helpful indeed. I'm in the process of doing a diesel to electric conversion using the 10kw Thunderstruck sail boat kit. I have a question for you what length and gage wire are you using for the connection from batteries to controller.? Thanks,? Jorge?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 12/31/21 01:37 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Update - end of season inspection
Thanks for the comments.? Happy to give back a little of what I have gotten from this group.?
I spent some time this evening adding more info and photos.? I'll likely split this all into smaller pages but for now it all starts here:
Dan Pfeiffer
On 2021-12-30 4:58 pm, Günter W?ckener wrote:
Dan, thank you very much for information and data.
-- "What a strange machine man is!
You fill him with bread, wine, fish, and
radishes,
and out come sighs, laughter, and dreams."
-Nikos Kazantzakis,
poet and novelist
(18 Feb 1883-1957)
|
Re: Electric Drive Update
I don't know what an acceptable runout would be but I would minimize it any way I could.? If you can add a bearing that sounds like a good idea.? Those bearings (like I used for the pilot bearing) are available in SS.? Either just SS for the bearing unit or SS for the bearing unit and the mounting block.? Thy are from food industry applications. ??
Look at these mounts.? Note the way the bearings are mounted.?
I think that chain coupler on the Thunderstruck kit might also be a vibration issue at high RPM?? I have never seen one running in person.
Dan Pfeiffer
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On 2022-01-12 12:15 pm, jesper.malmberg86@... wrote:
Another question,
I see that you managed to get the runout down to 0.001" on the shaft from the motor. I have the thunderstruck reducer and it's not as sturdy looking as what you have manufactured and it sits at about 0.005" runout. I'm getting some vibration at higher RPMs but I'm pretty sure it's from the propeller which will be replaced next haulout. Would you say this runout is acceptable though? I was considering adding a pillow block style bearing in order to stabilize the shaft a bit.
Regards,
Jesper
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Re: Electric Drive Update
Good question.? I will expand that on the write up.?
I am building a 48VDC generator that will charge the batteries directly.? You can do AC and run through the chargers and that is a very good option with some advantages.? AC generators are more readily available, you can use it to power AC house loads directly, the higher output voltage means less amps through the genset output wiring.?? But, if you want to run on the generator at sustained speeds of 0.85x to .90x hull speed (my target) you will need enough charging capacity to put that much power from the genset through to the batteries/motor.?? And you have an extra stage where you loose efficiency (going through charger).? But it can certainly be done.
There is a very nice AC setup on a boat in Seattle by someone who was on this forum?? Boat was sold last year.? He has a 240VAC genset and 3x of the Thunderstruck chargers which can run at 2500 watts each at 240V input.? So he has 7500 watts out of the chargers (assuming the genset can deliver that much).?? The ad is still out there on the interwebs:
AC to chargers has a bit greater efficiency loss but is easier to source parts I think.?? DC is simpler parts wise and you don't need as large a charger.?? But I still need to sort out what I will do for rectifying the genset output to DC and regulating it.? I could end up changing to AC of that is too much of a problem.?
Fischer Panda makes a 5 or 6 kW DC genset with a 48V output.? Probably $12K???? Kind of blows up the economics of the electric conversion the same way a 14kWh Battleborn battery bank would??? I am at $3300 so far for my DC genset (engine and gen head).? Still need a bunch of stuff (rectifier, regulator, cooling system, mounts,...) but I don't think that will cost $9000 more?? I hope to be under $5K and have a 8 or 10 kW unit. Dan Pfeiffer
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On 2022-01-12 12:01 pm, jesper.malmberg86@... wrote:
Well done Dan and thanks for the detailed writeup. Looks like you got a very well executed project!
I saw on your blog that you were looking at getting a diesel genset. In what direction are you leaning, traditional genset and increase the charger outputs or are you looking at 48V or possibly building your own?
Regards,
Jesper
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Re: Electric Drive Update
Another question,
I see that you managed to get the runout down to 0.001" on the shaft from the motor. I have the thunderstruck reducer and it's not as sturdy looking as what you have manufactured and it sits at about 0.005" runout. I'm getting some vibration at higher RPMs but I'm pretty sure it's from the propeller which will be replaced next haulout. Would you say this runout is acceptable though? I was considering adding a pillow block style bearing in order to stabilize the shaft a bit.
Regards,
Jesper
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Re: Electric Drive Update
Well done Dan and thanks for the detailed writeup. Looks like you got a very well executed project!
I saw on your blog that you were looking at getting a diesel genset. In what direction are you leaning, traditional genset and increase the charger outputs or are you looking at 48V or possibly building your own?
Regards,
Jesper
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Reuben Trane