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I had the same symptoms as jeffsschwartz@... ( /g/electricboats/topic/102443567 ) 2 years ago (motor didn't turn but vibrated slightly on activation of the throttle) and it

It would be surprising if a locked up system was the result of poor contact, but for something as simple as cleaning connections I recommend Deoxit D5.? I have a small (5 oz) aerosol can.? The stuff

Hi Tim, I had the same problem a couple of years back with my Sevcon/Motenergy combo (purchased from Thunderstruck).? It all worked great when I benched it and then it stopped working later on (the

I have similar motor and Sevcon. Your issue is new to me, but when I have issues, I unplug all connections and clean them with a small diamond bit I have for my Dremel. Usually this fixes my issues.

Have you checked the 35-pin connector? Is the SEVCON GEN4 controller correctly connected and locked? Can you connect the controller to the CAN bus via an IXXAT USB-to-CAN interface? With the DVTC

I have installed an electric drive on my sailboat using a kit supplied by Electric Drive Engineering in Western Australia. It uses a Motenergy 10kw motor in conjunction with a Sevcon Gen 4 size 4

Thanks for the info Dan. I love this list. Always good stuff.

While it may be difficult to determine state of charge of a LiFePo4 bank just from voltage, I do think if my voltage was essentially unchanged from November to the following May (according to Victron

https://www.patreon.com/posts/83745741?utm_campaign=postshare_creator Here's a link to how that motor and the battery pack fit into the space that used to hold a Yanmar 3GM. We have a lot of data up

Good afternoon from the Azores! I have that exact motor. We went with Eve cells through Docan, and I've been incredibly happy with their performance while shaking down in Florida then crossing 2/3 of

So LiFePo stays fairly high voltage until it nears the very end but the older Lithium Ion chemistries have a slow drop of voltage until near the end so it's easier to determine the remaining capacity

Not all lithium acts like this. While a fairly flat discharge curve is seen with Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo or LiPo), it is not the case for Lithium Ion chemistries. As example, the batteries in

George, Your example very much highlights the quality of "name brand" prismatics, such as CALB.? But as I'd subbested to Dan, mine are not of that quality and I feel need a little babying.? That

Replying to Thomas V and others who report removing batteries in the cold north winters- I believe you all are being overly cautious and lithium iron phosphate cells can certainly handle extreme cold

Unless I'm wrong, my understanding is that lithium doesn't drop in voltage as you deplete them like lead acid and the voltage stays high right up until they reach capacity. So the only accurate way

Very interesting, Dan.? Thank you for the information.? No doubt your batteries are of nobler pedigree than mine.? I was always over-protective of our kids as they were growing up, but it never did

Why do you need to remove the batteries from the boat for winter storage? I have a 48V 280AH battery that I built from prismatic cells (cost about $2,700 including BMS). I have left it on the boat

That should say “are not apples to apples”

Your life will be much simpler purchasing 48v units. The options you posted though are. It apples to apples: Dakota lithium is mined and made in the USA, has great local support, and a fantastic

David, You're installing batteries in a 27-foot boat, so I assume your physical space is limited.? That's certainly what I found repowering our 27-foot Cape Dory.? Living and sailing in Michigan