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Just as another reference point, I use a 50# thrust Minkota I bought on Craigslist? for $100 on my San Juan 21 at the lake and it pushes it very well. Will run hard for almost half a day on a Group

I've got one of these. Another guy on this list has one and said it was still running a year later. I'm still building the boat so haven't tested it yet. It looks well built. The video of 2 fat

Better fitting power range: https://plugboats.com/electric-outboards-less-than-5-kw/ ( https://plugboats.com/electric-outboards-less-than-5-kw/ )

Greg, Most any 55 lb. trolling motor will do the job for you, especially if you are using it for maneuvering, etc. If you might need to cruise 5+ miles regularly under power, then Torqueedo and

Take a look here: https://plugboats.com/guide-to-electric-saildrive-pod-boat-motors/ Jeff

I just got a 15' sailboat that wants to have an electric motor in a 14" x 7" well 13" deep. I need something in the 2-3 hp range. I have been looking at the Torqueedo website, specifically the 603C.

I'm using M6x30 grub screws in carbon steel, less reactive to aluminum and I have no exposure to salt air (sealed battery box).

Yes, but I won't use either. Going with grub screws and machined 6101 aluminum bars.

Mine included buss bars, studs and nuts. But the buss bars only fit with cells parallel not end to end. And for my application (16P, 200 amps max) I thought they were a little light so I made my

Thanks Randy! Sent via phone and big thumbs

Did it included buss bars and nuts?Cheers

Dongguan Lightning Energy Technology Co., Ltd. on Alibaba. I've made other purchases from Alibaba and trust them. I purchased 134 of the 280Ah LiFePO4 cells for $95 each including shipping and

Hey Randy, I like what you are saying. I am planning to order 32 - 3.2v 280ah EVE 280ah's, or their equivalent, but there seems to be more than one option/location to choose from when searching

I suppose you could do the safety wire on the terminal studs or nuts on the bus bar between adjacent cells. Or you could put a hole in the bus bar as the anchor point for the wire. Care would be

How exactly does the safety wire go on the battery terminal studs or nuts? What does it anchor to? It cannot go to any other battery terminal because that would be a short. Can you give a link to

I'm all in for brass bolts and nuts ! As an aircraft mech (hobby), I would do like this :If you want all the contact you can get, avoid Loctite and use safety wire (stainless soft wire, not the one

Dear group members - I will have to commit to the actual battery bank purchase for my boat build sometime in the next few months, and as a complete newbie to electric boating I struggle to decide

Guys, please post a few photos of your setups? ;-)"A photo says more than a thousand words". Cheers,Carsten P? s?n., den 22. aug. 2021 klokken 19:16, Randy Cain<randylcain@...> skrev:

The loctite is only for thread locking to prevent turning and any chance of galling. I insulate the post threads that protrude from the terminal up to the point where the nut covers them because

That's an interesting point about resistance in the studs on terminal that I had not considered. It seems like a pretty unlikely problem but I will run it by my "electrical engineering department".