Gear reduction 3D printed bracket. #3D #GR
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Just preliminary working on a 3D plastic Real Bull motor bracket.
I cannot see why it would not work, this would remove the process of machining from aluminum billet. The bearing bores x 2 would be finished by fine boring to size and position. I will keep the forum regularly posted of my progress. B -- John |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýLooks good, and sounds like a good plan. What filament are you using? Is heat resistance or strength a major consideration? I have a MicroMark with the BLDC motor, and am satisfied with the torque, but nonetheless I find your project interesting. ? Greg ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2019 9:07 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Gear reduction 3D printed bracket. ? Just preliminary working on a 3D plastic Real Bull motor bracket. |
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Hi Greg.
Thanks for the post.
In this first trial I am using PLA. and see how it all works out.
ABS is stronger but can also become brittle ( I think) over periods of time.
Heat will not be an issue as the bracket is only in point contact (6 pointed grub screws) around the profile
that engage onto the motor casing, and is seeing air flow from the motor fan.
Strength again is not a major issue, the whole GR system is driven by the motor using plastic gears.2 x 16 T and 1 x 32 T
Without the adequate tools in place, the manufacture of the ally bracket can be difficult,
this maybe a good cheap option. But we shall see .
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BLDC motors are good, but can suffer with lack of toque at the lower RPM spectrum, ? but I am
not an expert in these matters. we can pass this over to other members for discussion who are a bit more "savvy" than me
on motors.
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A good test of adequate torque is to cut for example a? 40 mm dia x 2 mm pitch thread. This requires low RPM?
and sufficient torque when coming up to full depth.
The automatic "hands free" screwcutting module of the ELS demands the threading tool moves directly in the X axis direction.
No compound slide at 29.5 degree moves.
Not a problem as the number of roughing and finishing passes are pre set.and can also be changed if cutting brass versus steel.
At the end of the cuts, the ELS automatically backs out the tool " called rebound" and travels to the original starting point and feeds back in and cuts.
In manual ELS screwcutting this adopts the same X axis "IN" move, but naturally depth of cuts and tool retraction are controlled by the operator.
In automatic mode, a predetermined backlash setting is applied in the firmware. so no fear of the tool not clearing the thread profile on?
automatic returns.
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Many thanks for your interest.
Keep posting.
-- John |
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Numbers are 2092 and 2095. Good on LMS. a brilliant bunch of guys,? I printed in the past a 32 T and looks good ( involute wise) .See photo, LMS versus 3D print. A bit grubby, well so am I. LOL Never tried it yet, as what is currently running using LMS gears that I purchased 5 years works,is still running,? but for example if it?s a Sunday? morning,and you need to replace a GR gear, well just print it.???It?s what we have the machines for. But I just purchased more gears from Chris Woods, magic, but I don?t like the US postal charges, Gr 1111111111, every one is getting fat cept Momma Cass. I am in the process of putting together 5 more Real Bull GR units and I am supposed to be retired, or is it retarded, DON'T answer. Procrastination and we are all guilty of, is the thief of time? Enjoy the day, each second is precious. John On Tue, 20 Aug 2019 at 10:50, Fast Eddie <epinnell@...> wrote: Hi John! --
John |
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Files came in brilliant. By personal choice I would not of used the brim. By pure coincidence I just printed a small gear.? A bit rough but it is eventually to replace a broken gear kitchen device. i was given the broken gear with only 3 teeth on it, so # of teeth was a wild guess from 31 T to 33 T. i settled on 32 T, and will offer this proto up to the appliance and then if tooth count , major/minor diameters are all OK I will?make one in phosphor bronze. I have an digital electronic indexer that bolts to the mill table, and already made a .8 DP fly cutter. We shall see. The step indexer, again arduino firmware, was designed by Richard. thanks mate. it will index by # of divisions, angular displacement, jog and continuous run modes. also temp readings of the unit. The indexer head itself I made and also adapts as a horizontal mill head for my Weiss. All this is for another day. So much other digital stuff flying around at the moment.Phew. Thanks John On Tue, 20 Aug 2019 at 19:12, Fast Eddie <epinnell@...> wrote: Yes, I see no reason why your printed gear wouldn't work...at least it would keep you going until you could print (or buy!) another one. Nylon is the among the best material for printed gears...flexible, self-lubricating, strong, etc. --
John |
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Eddie. My mistake, I looked at the STL files you sent again in a different program. What i was seeing on the screen was your STL files brought in with my Slic3r and of course it includes all the preferences (settings) Print/Filament/Printer from the last job, Duh.Sorry for that. I really like your gears, you certainly got this down to a fine art. I will purchase some Nylon filament, any recommendations and does or dont?s? would be appreciated.. Have you thought about printing the H/L gears in the 7 x mini lathe, I swapped my originals out and replaced with steel, they worked OK but were noisy. So I remade from Delrin bar stock , fly cut the teeth, much quieter but? Nylon 3D print would be the best option and a good back up if I break a tooth. A really fun job to print. I could draw up and send the total dimensions of a stock set of mini lathe gears, spindle gear tooth count being 29 T 21 T? layshaft being 12 T 19 T but i will check, if you could help create a STL file with the gear profile then I would print here once? I get the nylon filament. My CAD system is very limited as regards producing good gear tooth profiles. Thanks On Tue, 20 Aug 2019 at 23:29, Fast Eddie <epinnell@...> wrote: I always use a brim, but not attached to the model...a single outline or two on the first layer, 2mm or so away from the outline of the model. It primes the nozzle and it shows where the print will be on the bed, helpful when you are approaching the limits of your bed. --
John |
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Eddie
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Thanks for the information.
I have found the nearest supplier in France.?
Prices and shipping as one would expect.? ?
I found in the past when printing ABS , I sand (bead) blasted the
upper side of the glass to a frosted finish, not a heavy blast.
This seems to stop the corners from lifting during print.Also applied a so?ution of chopped up ABS?
and mixed with Acetone, mixed to a milk constituency and paint on the glass after preheat. Removal of parts off the glass, same procedure as you, hot water and soak, also I have cracked ordinary glass in the past, and?
opted for the toughened Pyrex (oven door glass) readily available locally.
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Thanks
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John
-- John |
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Hi John!
I bought a couple of packages of 12"x12" mirror tiles and I was using those but it makes it hard to get a good picture from my camera with all the reflections. I sandblasted one of them a long time ago and I tried it but I don't remember what I didn't like about it. Ultimately I opted for a sheet of regular glass and cut it to the size I need, but I still have that sandblasted mirror tile so I'll give it another go. I was also going to suggest PETG for gears. Most of my filament is PETG. It's easy to use but it tends to be stringy and that's one of the reasons why I put a camera on the x-axis carriage a few months back. I've seen the filament bubbling at the tip of the nozzle with PETG before but didn't connect the dots as it being wet, and it still prints beautifully, so I would say that PETG doesn't absolutely need to be dried unless you are after maximum performance. But the Alloy 910...the first thing I noticed is that right after I changed filament, I extruded 150mm to flush out the hotend, but then it just kept extruding/oozing out of the nozzle. As I'm watching it, it looked like there were lumps in it. I always watch the first layer, all the way through...if I don't have an absolutely perfect first layer, I cancel the print and start over. The first layer looked lumpy, like the material hadn't melted completely. I dried it in the food dehydrator/filament dryer at max (150-160F) until the next day (about 18 hrs) and then fed it out of the dryer into the printer. I printed it while the dryer was running. I don't like to run the dryer in the room because it gets too hot in there after awhile so usually I put the dryer outside while drying, but I put up with it in this case. When it's dry it comes out of the nozzle just like creamy toothpaste. I didn't think I would like printing it with a raft, but the raft prints like a plush down comforter and peels away easily, leaving a nice surface finish. Speaking about surface finishes...I printed the CR-10s camera mount with support and it produces a woven kind of finish, not entirely unattractive... Here's the other side (Hatchbox Black PETG): #3D |
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Eddie All good information. Thanks.for sharing, I have a lot to learn and experiment. On Wed, 21 Aug 2019 at 20:16, Fast Eddie <epinnell@...> wrote:
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John |
John Lindo
