Finally started working on my Z drive! Here is where I start:
Here is my setup on my clausing 8520 mill to mill the slots for the mounting bolts. The surface I wanted to mill is 6" off the table and vibrated and chattered horrible but I made something that should work.
Here is the 6x4x3/8 angle iron mounting plate and motor.
I got a 12 NM stepper on sale! Having more torque is better than less torque.
Ralph
-- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 02:18 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
I got a 12 NM stepper on sale! Having more torque is better than less torque.
As long as you don't crash :)
|
Gene, I was thinking exactly the same thing! -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
?
ANTHONY’S LAW OF THE WORKSHOP: Any tool, when dropped, will roll into the least accessible corner of the workshop.
?
THE LINDO COROLLARY: If you have cats, they will promptly hide the tool.
|
Ralph 12 Nm is a beast if you run it at its rated current. I have one on my mill and managed to shear a drive key using the stepper at full rated current. Fortunately the stepper drive has lower current settings.....its on about half rated current now. Don’t (how do I know ? ) use it at full current with out a trip switch to prevent end stop crashes.
By the way with Lindo’s corollary.....tools are not the only things cats make off with ! interesting curls of steel and aluminium also walk too. And they end up in funny and not so funny places....a freshly made bed ? And of course O’flanagan held that Murphy was an optimist.
Regards ?Bob
|
Interesting thanks, I only bought the motor because of the sale.
I "plan" on having travel stops, but do not know how to get my spindle to fast stop.
I use the and there is very little known about the controller.
I am currently?using a 10 k pot in place of the Hall Effect foot pedal and when I turn the pot down there appears that there might be braking involved. If I just turn the power off the motor continues to? rotate.
Ralph
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Show quoted text
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 7:26 AM Bob T < zs6bxi@...> wrote: Ralph 12 Nm is a beast if you run it at its rated current. I have one on my mill and managed to shear a drive key using the stepper at full rated current. Fortunately the stepper drive has lower current settings.....its on about half rated current now. Don’t (how do I know ? ) use it at full current with out a trip switch to prevent end stop crashes.
By the way with Lindo’s corollary.....tools are not the only things cats make off with ! interesting curls of steel and aluminium also walk too. And they end up in funny and not so funny places....a freshly made bed ? And of course O’flanagan held that Murphy was an optimist.
Regards ?Bob
-- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Why worry about the spindle stopping, I thought that the problem was
the use of high torque? motor driving the leadscrew. A limit switch
will stop that. Be aware that it is not good policy the have a high
deceleration rate on a spindle with a screw on chuck!
I need to say that I have had an ELS for quite a few years and have
never crashed it yet!
Richard
On 24/09/2020 14:05, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Interesting thanks, I only bought the motor because
of the sale.
I "plan" on having travel stops, but do not know how to get
my spindle to fast stop.
I use the
and there is very little known about the controller.
I am currently?using a 10 k pot in place of the Hall Effect
foot pedal and when I turn the pot down there appears that
there might be braking
involved. If I just turn the power off the motor continues
to? rotate.
Ralph
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 7:26
AM Bob T < zs6bxi@...> wrote:
Ralph
12 Nm is a beast if you run it at its rated current. I have
one on my mill and managed to shear a drive key using the
stepper at full rated current. Fortunately the stepper drive
has lower current settings.....its on about half rated current
now.
Don’t (how do I know ? ) use it at full current with out a
trip switch to prevent end stop crashes.
By the way with Lindo’s corollary.....tools are not the only
things cats make off with ! interesting curls of steel and
aluminium also walk too. And they end up in funny and not so
funny places....a freshly made bed ?
And of course O’flanagan held that Murphy was an optimist.
Regards ?Bob
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta
drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D printer
|
Yes Richard, The stepper I can disable with the Enable function but I was thinking of a situation where I needed to immediately?STOP everything.?
It's interesting as I have very little actual machine time so I do not know the perils. As I have said I flunked out of Machine shop II 55 years ago and have never touched a machine since.
Ralph
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 10:32 AM Richard < edelec@...> wrote:
Why worry about the spindle stopping, I thought that the problem was
the use of high torque? motor driving the leadscrew. A limit switch
will stop that. Be aware that it is not good policy the have a high
deceleration rate on a spindle with a screw on chuck!
I need to say that I have had an ELS for quite a few years and have
never crashed it yet!
Richard
On 24/09/2020 14:05, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
Interesting thanks, I only bought the motor because
of the sale.
I "plan" on having travel stops, but do not know how to get
my spindle to fast stop.
I use the
and there is very little known about the controller.
I am currently?using a 10 k pot in place of the Hall Effect
foot pedal and when I turn the pot down there appears that
there might be braking
involved. If I just turn the power off the motor continues
to? rotate.
Ralph
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 7:26
AM Bob T < zs6bxi@...> wrote:
Ralph
12 Nm is a beast if you run it at its rated current. I have
one on my mill and managed to shear a drive key using the
stepper at full rated current. Fortunately the stepper drive
has lower current settings.....its on about half rated current
now.
Don’t (how do I know ? ) use it at full current with out a
trip switch to prevent end stop crashes.
By the way with Lindo’s corollary.....tools are not the only
things cats make off with ! interesting curls of steel and
aluminium also walk too. And they end up in funny and not so
funny places....a freshly made bed ?
And of course O’flanagan held that Murphy was an optimist.
Regards ?Bob
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta
drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D printer
-- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 07:42 AM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
As I have said I flunked out of Machine shop II 55 years ago and have never touched a machine since.
For someone who hadn't touch a machine since, you have quite a few machines in your workshop! Were you just collecting them for a while, and now starting to touch them? :) Immediate stop could be useful when you hit the emergency stop button. Like mentioned already, might be not a good idea if you have a screw-on chuck, as it can unscrew during a sudden stop. If you had a 3-phase motor and a VFD, most VFDs have a fast stop option (some faster than others, using an external brake resistor). No idea if that's possible with a motor like yours. I've heard that bigger lathes can have mechanical brakes as there is a lot of energy to dissipate quickly.
|
Bob, I certainly agree with O'Flanagan! -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
?
ANTHONY’S LAW OF THE WORKSHOP: Any tool, when dropped, will roll into the least accessible corner of the workshop.
THE LINDO COROLLARY: If you have cats, they will promptly hide the tool.
|
"I need to say that I have had an ELS for quite a few years and have never crashed it yet!Richard"Unlike Richard, who is an outstanding machinist and whose level of expertise I shall never come close to achieving, I have crashed my RELS system once. It was 100% my fault, not the system's. The point I want to make is that I use a NEMA 23 stepper with 3.0 Nm holding torque on both the Z and X axes. When I incorrectly drove the cutting tool straight into the part with the cross-slide at relatively high speed, my X-axis stepper never stalled. I managed to hit the Emergency Stop button, which on my mini-lathe disables the mains power, before any? damage was done. The stepper motor torque was sufficient that it spun my QCTP about 30 degrees around its M12 (or is it M10? I can't remember) mounting bolt. I can't imagine what kind of damage a 12 Nm stepper could cause! I view the stepper motor partly as a kind of mechanical fuse, and prefer that it stall rather than cause more permanent damage. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
?
ANTHONY’S LAW OF THE WORKSHOP: Any tool, when dropped, will roll into the least accessible corner of the workshop.
THE LINDO COROLLARY: If you have cats, they will promptly hide the tool.
|
This guy put a disk brake on his chuck??Almost certainly something similar could be done with a bicycle disk brake mechanism; and it could be made ’digital’ by use of an actuator of some sort so when you hit the big red STOP button it comes on.
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 07:42 AM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
As I have said I flunked out of Machine shop II 55 years ago and have never touched a machine since.
For someone who hadn't touch a machine since, you have quite a few machines in your workshop! Were you just collecting them for a while, and now starting to touch them? :) Immediate stop could be useful when you hit the emergency stop button. Like mentioned already, might be not a good idea if you have a screw-on chuck, as it can unscrew during a sudden stop. If you had a 3-phase motor and a VFD, most VFDs have a fast stop option (some faster than others, using an external brake resistor). No idea if that's possible with a motor like yours. I've heard that bigger lathes can have mechanical brakes as there is a lot of energy to dissipate quickly.
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
Hi Gene, 5 years ago, maybe 7, time flies when one is retired and has all of this time on their hands.
I started to build a workshop, thinking it would be a wood workshop when my neighbor decided he was too old to continue safely using his machine tools (Clausing 8520 Vertical Mill, Craftsman 12x36 lathe, 4x12 mini lathe and lots of hand tools).
So he wanted to sell them to me, <$1,000.00 all together. I now have a machine shop. Actually the shop still is not "finished".
I am picturing using a DS1803 Digital Pot to control my spindle in place of the Hall Effect Sensor (10k replacement pot). Currently?if I shut off power to my spindle motor it seems to have a capacitive?charge and continues to turn even though?not powered.
If I close the 10k pot the motor shuts off immediately, it appears there might be some sort of brake in the motor controller actuated by the pot.
I have seen ESCs (Electronic Speed Control) with brake function, there is very little knowledge on how the control works or is wired.
My chuck is 1 1/2"-8 screw on, the chuck is on tight I do not "think" a sudden stop or reversing would unscrew it.
We will be talking about how to program the DS1803 and implementing an Emergency stop.
Ralph
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Show quoted text
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 07:42 AM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
As I have said I flunked out of Machine shop II 55 years ago and have never touched a machine since.
For someone who hadn't touch a machine since, you have quite a few machines in your workshop! Were you just collecting them for a while, and now starting to touch them? :)
Immediate stop could be useful when you hit the emergency stop button. Like mentioned already, might be not a good idea if you have a screw-on chuck, as it can unscrew during a sudden stop. If you had a 3-phase motor and a VFD, most VFDs have a fast stop option (some faster than others, using an external brake resistor). No idea if that's possible with a motor like yours. I've heard that bigger lathes can have mechanical brakes as there is a lot of energy to dissipate quickly.
-- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
I have a 3.5Nm stepper but it was suggested it was too small for a 3/4-8 leadscrew.
I am "thinking" of using it for my X drive, possible with 8:1 gearing.
Ralph
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On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 11:35 AM CLevinski < clevinski@...> wrote: "I need to say that I have had an ELS for quite a few years and have never crashed it yet! Richard"
Unlike Richard, who is an outstanding machinist and whose level of expertise I shall never come close to achieving, I have crashed my RELS system once. It was 100% my fault, not the system's. The point I want to make is that I use a NEMA 23 stepper with 3.0 Nm holding torque on both the Z and X axes. When I incorrectly drove the cutting tool straight into the part with the cross-slide at relatively high speed, my X-axis stepper never stalled. I managed to hit the Emergency Stop button, which on my mini-lathe disables the mains power, before any? damage was done. The stepper motor torque was sufficient that it spun my QCTP about 30 degrees around its M12 (or is it M10? I can't remember) mounting bolt. I can't imagine what kind of damage a 12 Nm stepper could cause!
I view the stepper motor partly as a kind of mechanical fuse, and prefer that it stall rather than cause more permanent damage. -- Regards,
Charlie New Jersey, USA
?
ANTHONY’S LAW OF THE WORKSHOP: Any tool, when dropped, will roll into the least accessible corner of the workshop.
THE LINDO COROLLARY: If you have cats, they will promptly hide the tool.
-- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
All seems we are working towards the same goal, well done Ralph, nice to read you are going physically forward.
Eventually (depends on SANTA)? I will replace my Z axis stepper from a Nema 23 to a Nema 34. The Nema 23 will replace the Nema 17 currently fitted to the X axis. I am just looking for a bit more of a comfort zone (power) when threading coarse threads using the RELS. Recently totally overhauled my RB 7 x 14 and tightened a few things up, and I was suffering a bit on stalling? using auto threading with the Nema 23 in Z axis,
With Richards help, I managed to change a few lines in the Arduino sketch and this has improved things. Problem now is, I will possibly need to change the driver, if changing the size of the stepper, as the Nema 34 is needing a 6 amp supply, what I currently have is a driver rated MAX 4 amps.Oh well.Only money LOL. So in the meantime of? purchasing more TOYS, ( I use Stepper on Line) as prices are good and they have warehouses in Germany and USA.as well as China.? Attached photos of the new Nema 34 mounting bracket, it just needs the 4 x motor holes 6 mm x 1 mm drilled and tapped. The original profile machined on the lathe m/f a 135 mm dia ally billet, then moved to the mill to finish the stepper profile front end. The CNC uses the DDCS V 3.1 that i am very happy with, the circular interpolation is excellent.?
Last photo showing existing Nema 23 on the end of the Z axis screw. the mill work totally CNC,? The lathe work I used a (125 mm/? 5 " dia ) chuck, and with the Gear reduction fitted not a problem. Again it's a typical 7 x 14 Chinese lathe good enough.? Also the facing operations incorporated the CSS constant surface speed to achieve the finish, IE further you face into the spindle c/L the cutting speed increase.? Hope of interest?
Stay safe and be vigilant and wise. PS I just added another photo to show the effects of the CSS.
-- John
|
What pitch is your X leadscrew?
I would suggest applying 28Nm which is 2.8KgM which is 20lbsft will
be a bit OTT.
Richard
On 25/09/2020 18:39, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a 3.5Nm stepper but it was suggested it was
too small for a 3/4-8 leadscrew.
I am "thinking" of using it for my X drive, possible with
8:1 gearing.
Ralph
On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 11:35
AM CLevinski < clevinski@...> wrote:
"I
need to say that I have had an ELS for quite a few years
and have never crashed it yet!
Richard"
Unlike Richard, who is an outstanding machinist and whose
level of expertise I shall never come close to achieving, I have
crashed my RELS system once. It was 100% my fault, not the
system's. The point I want to make is that I use a NEMA 23
stepper with 3.0 Nm holding torque on both the Z and X axes.
When I incorrectly drove the cutting tool straight into the
part with the cross-slide at relatively high speed, my X-axis
stepper never stalled. I managed to hit the Emergency Stop
button, which on my mini-lathe disables the mains power,
before any? damage was done. The stepper motor torque was
sufficient that it spun my QCTP about 30 degrees around its
M12 (or is it M10? I can't remember) mounting bolt. I can't
imagine what kind of damage a 12 Nm stepper could cause!
I view the stepper motor partly as a kind of mechanical fuse,
and prefer that it stall rather than cause more permanent
damage.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
?
ANTHONY’S
LAW OF THE WORKSHOP: Any tool, when dropped, will
roll into the least accessible corner of the
workshop.
THE LINDO COROLLARY: If
you have cats, they will promptly hide the tool.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta
drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D printer
|
I’ve been playing with various stepper motor sizes and torques.? I do have a 12 Nm stepper on my mill and have just upped the the sizing on my Hobbymat MD 65 Z drive from a 1 Nm to a 3 Nm drive nema 23 and from a 0.4Nm to a 0.65 Nm nema 17 on the X axis. My take on sizing (for what its worth) is that the larger the torque rating you have on a stepper the larger the “cogging” effect you feel when you turn it without the power connected. The 3Nm nema 23 on my Z axis has gotten just a little too big to be comfortable turning it when I’m not using the stepper drive (the hand wheel is 60 mm dia). On the other hand my 12 Nm beast works well with a 100mm dia. hand wheel without power on. I suspect that the “clogging or detent” effect varies with with the supplier and the length/diameter ?ratio of the stepper motor rotor. Of course any gearing will amplify the effect. For interests sake when I was “commissioning” my new ?X axis drive I put a digital dial gauge on the cross slide and measured what actual movement hat I was actually getting as I put steps on the motor. I was surprised to find that although a complete revolution of the stepper motor was a constant the angle change for a given number of steps did vary a bit.....probably in line with the spec sheet on the motor that said 5% linearity, not a problem for most folks but I will be looking at doing a 2 or 3 reduction in drive ratio to improve that.If I do that then I will have to look at a neat way of dis-engaging the drive when I don’t want it connected. It never ends ! The stepper in line folk also have a depot or agent in Australia so I get good response (and prices ) from them. But when you get to the larger sizes of stepper and drive things are no longer “cheap”.
Regards Bob
|
The X leadscrew is 1/2-10. What is OTT? Ralph
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On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 6:33 PM Bob T < zs6bxi@...> wrote: I’ve been playing with various stepper motor sizes and torques.? I do have a 12 Nm stepper on my mill and have just upped the the sizing on my Hobbymat MD 65 Z drive from a 1 Nm to a 3 Nm drive nema 23 and from a 0.4Nm to a 0.65 Nm nema 17 on the X axis. My take on sizing (for what its worth) is that the larger the torque rating you have on a stepper the larger the “cogging” effect you feel when you turn it without the power connected. The 3Nm nema 23 on my Z axis has gotten just a little too big to be comfortable turning it when I’m not using the stepper drive (the hand wheel is 60 mm dia). On the other hand my 12 Nm beast works well with a 100mm dia. hand wheel without power on. I suspect that the “clogging or detent” effect varies with with the supplier and the length/diameter ?ratio of the stepper motor rotor. Of course any gearing will amplify the effect. For interests sake when I was “commissioning” my new ?X axis drive I put a digital dial gauge on the cross slide and measured what actual movement hat I was actually getting as I put steps on the motor. I was surprised to find that although a complete revolution of the stepper motor was a constant the angle change for a given number of steps did vary a bit.....probably in line with the spec sheet on the motor that said 5% linearity, not a problem for most folks but I will be looking at doing a 2 or 3 reduction in drive ratio to improve that.If I do that then I will have to look at a neat way of dis-engaging the drive when I don’t want it connected. It never ends ! The stepper in line folk also have a depot or agent in Australia so I get good response (and prices ) from them. But when you get to the larger sizes of stepper and drive things are no longer “cheap”.
Regards Bob
-- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
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From: Ralph
Hulslander
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2020 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Z stepper mount
#RELS
?
The X leadscrew is 1/2-10.
What is OTT?
Ralph
?
On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 6:33 PM Bob T
<zs6bxi@...> wrote:
I’ve
been playing with various stepper motor sizes and torques. I do have a 12
Nm stepper on my mill and have just upped the the sizing on my Hobbymat MD 65
Z drive from a 1 Nm to a 3 Nm drive nema 23 and from a 0.4Nm to a 0.65 Nm nema
17 on the X axis. My take on sizing (for what its worth) is that the larger
the torque rating you have on a stepper the larger the “cogging” effect you
feel when you turn it without the power connected. The 3Nm nema 23 on my Z
axis has gotten just a little too big to be comfortable turning it when I’m
not using the stepper drive (the hand wheel is 60 mm dia). On the other hand
my 12 Nm beast works well with a 100mm dia. hand wheel without power on. I
suspect that the “clogging or detent” effect varies with with the supplier and
the length/diameter? ratio of the stepper motor rotor. Of course any
gearing will amplify the effect. For interests sake when I was “commissioning”
my new? X axis drive I put a digital dial gauge on the cross slide and
measured what actual movement hat I was actually getting as I put steps on the
motor. I was surprised to find that although a complete revolution of the
stepper motor was a constant the angle change for a given number of steps did
vary a bit.....probably in line with the spec sheet on the motor that said 5%
linearity, not a problem for most folks but I will be looking at doing a 2 or
3 reduction in drive ratio to improve that.If I do that then I will have to
look at a neat way of dis-engaging the drive when I don’t want it connected.
It never ends ! The stepper in line folk also have a depot or agent in
Australia so I get good response (and prices ) from them. But when you get to
the larger sizes of stepper and drive things are no longer
“cheap”.
Regards Bob -- Clausing 8520,
Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser,
Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Ralph, it would help if you "Replied" to the original mail!
As Peter has said OTT is "UK English" for Over the Top, meaning, a
lot more than necessary.
In your case OTT referred to your suggestion of using a 3Nm motor
with a 6:1 drive on your 1/2" 10tpi X leadscrew.
There are a number of problems with such a setup. First is adding
the complication of a belt 6:1 ratio drive.
Secondly that amount of torque is just not needed. Thirdly as Bob
indicates below the detent torque becomes a pain when working
manually.
My X screw is 12mm x 2.5mm pitch so very close to yours and I have a
1.85Nm direct driving it. The detent torque is acceptable though
there are times when I just unplug the motor to get rid of any
loading. I have never had any cutting problems with my X feed though
I do not take 5mm facing cuts in steel! I would suggest that you use
your 3Nm motor but with an inline 1:1 drive.
Richard
On 26/09/2020 00:29, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The X leadscrew is 1/2-10.
What is OTT?
Ralph
On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 6:33
PM Bob T < zs6bxi@...> wrote:
I’ve
been playing with various stepper motor sizes and torques.?
I do have a 12 Nm stepper on my mill and have just upped the
the sizing on my Hobbymat MD 65 Z drive from a 1 Nm to a 3 Nm
drive nema 23 and from a 0.4Nm to a 0.65 Nm nema 17 on the X
axis. My take on sizing (for what its worth) is that the
larger the torque rating you have on a stepper the larger the
“cogging” effect you feel when you turn it without the power
connected. The 3Nm nema 23 on my Z axis has gotten just a
little too big to be comfortable turning it when I’m not using
the stepper drive (the hand wheel is 60 mm dia). On the other
hand my 12 Nm beast works well with a 100mm dia. hand wheel
without power on. I suspect that the “clogging or detent”
effect varies with with the supplier and the length/diameter
?ratio of the stepper motor rotor. Of course any gearing will
amplify the effect. For interests sake when I was
“commissioning” my new ?X axis drive I put a digital dial
gauge on the cross slide and measured what actual movement hat
I was actually getting as I put steps on the motor. I was
surprised to find that although a complete revolution of the
stepper motor was a constant the angle change for a given
number of steps did vary a bit.....probably in line with the
spec sheet on the motor that said 5% linearity, not a problem
for most folks but I will be looking at doing a 2 or 3
reduction in drive ratio to improve that.If I do that then I
will have to look at a neat way of dis-engaging the drive when
I don’t want it connected. It never ends !
The stepper in line folk also have a depot or agent in
Australia so I get good response (and prices ) from them. But
when you get to the larger sizes of stepper and drive things
are no longer “cheap”.
Regards Bob
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta
drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D printer
|
Thanks.
Richard re:?
?"Replied" to the original mail!? What does that mean? I just answered and hit Reply in my email reader (Gmail)?as far as I know I replied to the original mail, I think you have said this in the past on other subjects so there is something you are seeing that I am not.
Interesting, it will certainly be much easier to mount the stepper directly inline with the X leadscrew. I have never found any guidance on sizing stepper motors; this?is?all guess?and bygolly.
And of course with my limited machining experiences I have no idea of required torques.
Ralph
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 2:46 AM Richard < edelec@...> wrote:
Ralph, it would help if you "Replied" to the original mail!
As Peter has said OTT is "UK English" for Over the Top, meaning, a
lot more than necessary.
In your case OTT referred to your suggestion of using a 3Nm motor
with a 6:1 drive on your 1/2" 10tpi X leadscrew.
There are a number of problems with such a setup. First is adding
the complication of a belt 6:1 ratio drive.
Secondly that amount of torque is just not needed. Thirdly as Bob
indicates below the detent torque becomes a pain when working
manually.
My X screw is 12mm x 2.5mm pitch so very close to yours and I have a
1.85Nm direct driving it. The detent torque is acceptable though
there are times when I just unplug the motor to get rid of any
loading. I have never had any cutting problems with my X feed though
I do not take 5mm facing cuts in steel! I would suggest that you use
your 3Nm motor but with an inline 1:1 drive.
Richard
On 26/09/2020 00:29, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
The X leadscrew is 1/2-10.
What is OTT?
Ralph
On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 6:33
PM Bob T < zs6bxi@...> wrote:
I’ve
been playing with various stepper motor sizes and torques.?
I do have a 12 Nm stepper on my mill and have just upped the
the sizing on my Hobbymat MD 65 Z drive from a 1 Nm to a 3 Nm
drive nema 23 and from a 0.4Nm to a 0.65 Nm nema 17 on the X
axis. My take on sizing (for what its worth) is that the
larger the torque rating you have on a stepper the larger the
“cogging” effect you feel when you turn it without the power
connected. The 3Nm nema 23 on my Z axis has gotten just a
little too big to be comfortable turning it when I’m not using
the stepper drive (the hand wheel is 60 mm dia). On the other
hand my 12 Nm beast works well with a 100mm dia. hand wheel
without power on. I suspect that the “clogging or detent”
effect varies with with the supplier and the length/diameter
?ratio of the stepper motor rotor. Of course any gearing will
amplify the effect. For interests sake when I was
“commissioning” my new ?X axis drive I put a digital dial
gauge on the cross slide and measured what actual movement hat
I was actually getting as I put steps on the motor. I was
surprised to find that although a complete revolution of the
stepper motor was a constant the angle change for a given
number of steps did vary a bit.....probably in line with the
spec sheet on the motor that said 5% linearity, not a problem
for most folks but I will be looking at doing a 2 or 3
reduction in drive ratio to improve that.If I do that then I
will have to look at a neat way of dis-engaging the drive when
I don’t want it connected. It never ends !
The stepper in line folk also have a depot or agent in
Australia so I get good response (and prices ) from them. But
when you get to the larger sizes of stepper and drive things
are no longer “cheap”.
Regards Bob
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta
drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D printer
-- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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