#3D Printer Mods #3D
|
3D printing can be treated as an art.
It?s a matter of what suits the artist, the selection easel and brushes and paints (filament) in art maybe have been OK for Rembrandt but possibly not the same mix for Picasso. Naturally design of prints is fundamental and avoid printing overhangs or the need to use rafts, bridges etc. I admire the work of Michelengelo who painted the Sistene chapel, possibly more pait on the floor tan stuck to the celing, again avoid overhangs, a nice slope if you can does the job. I have a Geeetech Prusa I3 printer, aluminum frame now 4 yars old, and with many mods I can almost garantee, well almost perfecrt prints, I even print through the night. Why watch it screw up, when you can sleep, if it does screw up, then there is nothing you can do about it anyway and spending hours watching chages nothing. This printer has a Sanguinlou board, no defunct in preference to the Geeetech GT 2560 and even to find the software to upgrade is a real nightmare. You first need to install Arduino 1.0,01, this contains the board for Sanguinolou, all latest version of Arduino IDE do not. It is possible to attach a 3D probe but very difficult to update the firmware. Reading Richard?s post I tend to agree that 3D probes can be horses for different courses, again it?s all an art. if you do not have a solid bed and glass to work from, then leveling and setting initial Z heights can be intimidating. I removed the IMHO the stupid 4 x spring leveling adjusters, very "heath robinson" and replaced with 4 x Delrin blocks., now permanent. Naturally the varoious heights are crucial in each corner and Red Bull cans cut up make perfect shim material. So I devised a DTI that hangs from the top X axis rod and this serves several functions.? Calibration of the Z axis stepper motor, setting zero? 0 off the glass and in my case a 60 mm build of slip blocks to check and calbrate the movement. The DTI also seves to guarantee that the glass is flat and level, some shim under the riser blocks worked a treat. I did these mods and made tooling 3 years ago and haves never an issue of bed levelling. see photos 1 thru 4 Photo 5 a new design blower using 2 x fans, it clips onto the end of the extruder stepper motor. The heater glass I glass beaded one side, as I use ABS very frequently, and the roughened surface really helps in stopping the corner lift, a common problem whn printing with ABS. The nozzle from the glass height, I replaced. that IMHO the spring loaded switch for a Honeywell micro switch and fitted a new adjuster for fine tuning. I never use the thickness of a piece of paper but a slice of Red Bull can as my shim to adjust the height. Again depending on variations of my workshop temp, from -10C to 40C I rareley need to adjust, but only if I change nozzles. see photo 6 of the new height adjuster and switch. The as supplied 3 mm screw IMHO was a NO NO. Between the heater plate and the aluminum bed, I slipped in a piece of 180 mm x 180 mm cork.see photo 7 Ikea cork table mat, milled down from 20 mm to 17 mm thick.?I have 1 mm of air gap only, this prevents the bed heat convecting into air.? Saves on the bed heater and power usage. Photo 8 printer inside a Hood, with clock, temp, and humidity gauges. This will do for now on 3D mods, hope of interest, and any Cheers -- John |
|
Hello Julian The enclosure works for me, as my 3D printer is in an outside building, I call my workshop, affectionately called by my?wife as a "dung hole" and during the winter months it prevents drafts blowing across the printer when opening the workshop door. ABS failures in prints can be caused by having cold air blasting across the bed and causing non adhesion between layers. A minimum amount of controlled air through a fan onto the print is also required, but the enclosure gets warm inside so the air is not chilled, it's all a balancing act. I truly believe that if you can get the correct?air supplies onto a print, at the right time, the right volume of air,? and the right place then a lot of failures will go away. Angel hairs for instance.? I too use?a?type of "glue" to hold the?print down, and always use the typical?acetone mixed with snippets of the filament you are using, these are dropped in a jar of a small amount of acetone, to form almost a paste after a few minutes, which then is painted onto my pre heated glass plate, just past the profile?of the shape you are printing. If you use a small glass sealed jar, my " homemade" glue keeps at least a week in the fridge. Never tried the?"mickey mouse ears" adhesion trick, but worth?bearing in mind. Almost like a raft? in Slic3r settings ? The Youtube?video is very interesting and thanks for sharing. Always nice?to see young engineers at work, very refreshing. I note that the CMM was manufactured by C E Johansson, from Sweden, a very famous company for metrology instruments and the originators of the slip blocks or slip gauges and these were commonly known as "Jo" blocks in my days of early engineering. Cheers On Wed, 22 Sept 2021 at 00:43, Julian <julian@...> wrote: John, --
John |
|
Jerry? Photos would be appreciated. Sounds like a fun project fot the winter. Thanks John On Wed, 22 Sep 2021, 15:45 Jerry Trantow, <jerry.trantow@...> wrote:
--
John |
|
Jerry Trantow
I used some HVAC foil covered cardboard for the top. Sides are polycarb. The resistors are 300W each. There is an SCR and thermister running a pid loop for chamber temperature. (similar to heated bed). Contain your laughter and comments on the machine, It's a makerslide hodgepodge upgraded many times over the years. My first Thingiverse design was in 2012.? I'm gathering parts/plans for my next printer. It will be a coreXY with a 3/8" cast aluminum plate. The bed will be milled out of the center of the XY plate. The Z axis will be a single linear axis with a 3 point kinematic mount using some differential adjusting screws I made on the lathe. There are several guys on Craigslist selling table saw tops (27"x20"x1.5") for $10-$20 a piece. I plan to pick up several this weekend and will use at least one for the printer base and possibly two for the sides. That will give me a very heavy and rigid machine. Not quite CMM air bearing quality, but should be very solid. I've been keeping an eye on the E3D tool change platform and the SecKit. My main influence is Mark Rehorst's?printers. Look up UMMD. His design philosophy tends to making a better machine rather than software and hardware bandaids. (For the opposing design view, look at the Moron/Voron kludge of a design.) My guess is that most people in this group are capable of building a Rehorst type machine that could hold tight tolerances. I also?picked up a 54"x36"x6" surface plate a couple weeks ago. The plan is to cut that up and make a lathe and mill/router. See videos of granite CNC. No shortage of project plans! Last, in case anyone is looking for a precision spindle... PiotrFoxWysocki does a spindle review. He ended up with a Jianken spindle. I found a different Jianken?spindle listed on eBay for $400. I made them an offer of $200 which was accepted. Unit has been delivered and I have not fired it up, but it looks brand new. They still have one left. This has the SK06 collet which would not have been my first choice but for $200 I figured I can live with it.  ?
(143775114012) Delivered on Thu, Sep 16 Tracking number:? This item has been shipped.
On Wed, Sep 22, 2021 at 8:59 AM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
|
|
Jerry Trantow
Forgot 3d printer photo attachments. On Wed, Sep 22, 2021 at 1:55 PM Jerry Trantow <jerry.trantow@...> wrote:
|
John Lindo
