Good morning all,?
? ? ? I believe a similar thing happened to me, but I have a question that may or may not have been covered.?
? ? ? ?Will any club car 10 tooth spline? motor fit a 1980? I want to replace the 40 year old motor instead of working on it, again lol.?
? ? ? ?Looking for direction and hoping for more hill climbing capability.?
Cheers,
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-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...>
Date: 4/16/20 5:55 AM (GMT-08:00)
Subject: Re: [c-car] Replacement motor
The verdict is that my armature is shorted to the shaft... not sure where yet, nothing obvious, but every bar measures continuity to the shaft.?
Yanked my motor. Now my garage stinks like gear dope.?
Thanks!
My d&d was series and I believe 5hp. I put the alltrax 750 if my memory serves me right on it. Noticable more power than stock. Driven it about 8k miles no problems yet.?
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
-------- Original message --------
Date: 4/12/20 4:00 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [c-car] Replacement motor
Did you guys choose a d&d that was of similar specs as your old ones?? Did you stay series or go sepex?? I'm tempted with he thought of tossing my f/r contacts with sepex, but I'd have to buy a new controller too... and mines not very old. Did you loose
any top speed or torque?? It would be nice to gain some, but I definitely wouldn't want to loose any.?
Go with a D&D 6 HP.? That¡¯s. What I used
On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:15, Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> wrote:
Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently
running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
-- Cheers Tony P 1980 Orange Comuta-car?
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The verdict is that my armature is shorted to the shaft... not sure where yet, nothing obvious, but every bar measures continuity to the shaft.?
Yanked my motor. Now my garage stinks like gear dope.?
Thanks!
My d&d was series and I believe 5hp. I put the alltrax 750 if my memory serves me right on it. Noticable more power than stock. Driven it about 8k miles no problems yet.?
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
-------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 4:00 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [c-car] Replacement motor
Did you guys choose a d&d that was of similar specs as your old ones?? Did you stay series or go sepex?? I'm tempted with he thought of tossing my f/r contacts with sepex, but I'd have to buy a new controller too... and mines not very old. Did you loose any top speed or torque?? It would be nice to gain some, but I definitely wouldn't want to loose any.?
Go with a D&D 6 HP.? That¡¯s. What I used On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:15, Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> wrote: Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
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Yanked my motor. Now my garage stinks like gear dope.?
Thanks!
My d&d was series and I believe 5hp. I put the alltrax 750 if my memory serves me right on it. Noticable more power than stock. Driven it about 8k miles no problems yet.?
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
-------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 4:00 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [c-car] Replacement motor
Did you guys choose a d&d that was of similar specs as your old ones?? Did you stay series or go sepex?? I'm tempted with he thought of tossing my f/r contacts with sepex, but I'd have to buy a new controller too... and mines not very old. Did you loose any top speed or torque?? It would be nice to gain some, but I definitely wouldn't want to loose any.?
Go with a D&D 6 HP.? That¡¯s. What I used On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:15, Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> wrote: Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
|
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My d&d was series and I believe 5hp. I put the alltrax 750 if my memory serves me right on it. Noticable more power than stock. Driven it about 8k miles no problems yet.?
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
-------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 4:00 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [c-car] Replacement motor
Did you guys choose a d&d that was of similar specs as your old ones?? Did you stay series or go sepex?? I'm tempted with he thought of tossing my f/r contacts with sepex, but I'd have to buy a new controller too... and mines not very old. Did you loose any top speed or torque?? It would be nice to gain some, but I definitely wouldn't want to loose any.?
Go with a D&D 6 HP.? That¡¯s. What I used On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:15, Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> wrote: Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
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Re: Terrell axle ran without fluid findings.
Stupidly I did this once before but only drove 3 or 4 miles. That was 6k ago. Not accelerated wear from that I found. Will keep you guys posted. I drive 3 to 4k a year now. I am not sure if there are rebuild kitsch for it. Have to look into that.?
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-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> Date: 4/12/20 4:03 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [c-car] Terrell axle ran without fluid findings.
Hopefully no damage done!? If there's a problem it will show itself. Keep a close eye on your fluid and magnet for a while to make sure it's not disintegrating behind your back.? As title says it was filled to the wrong plug hole. Turns out this whole is a drain plug for if the axle was mounted differently. I made a new set up to test if it was ran dry. At the amount that was in it when I drove 10 miles it was below the splash pick up. It had about 2.5 oz in the case. At 3.5 oz it will splash and get some lubrication. The first drain I seen some small amount of glitter in the oil, nothing out of the ordinary for a yearly oil change. The magnet had nothing new stuck to it. I filled the oil to the proper amount 11oz and went back out for 10 miles. Dropped the oil and seen a small amount of glitter and about 3 or 4 pieces of metal the size of a grain of sand. I put an inspection camera in the diff and see no gouges or scratches. There is some where marks on the spiders and that is to be expected since the car has 40k miles. The gears are shiny and no scratches. There is no blue overheat color or the metal. Refilled the car with oil put it on stands and spun the wheels with the motor, no odd noises or new noises or leakes. Rock the wheels back and forth by hand and there is no grinding or excessive play just the normal lash between the gears (give or take 1/4 inch on the tire back and forth). I see no damage as of yet but most certainly did accelerate wear. I also used a royal purple 75w 90 as a lube. I imagine that this also helped with reducing wear becouse of its molecular bonding additives. The gears were spun at high speed in my mock test without the oil and they remained shiny, so I think the oil was still on the gears through the 10 miles. Let me know if you have questions or comments, I will call royal purple and ask about there oil, I am a nerd. Curious about there additive package and how it reacts on metal. Alot of new oils will impregnate the metal with anti wear protective coating and reduce wear in a situation like mine. Thanks if you held on this far in the email.?
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
|
My d&d was series and I believe 5hp. I put the alltrax 750 if my memory serves me right on it. Noticable more power than stock. Driven it about 8k miles no problems yet.?
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> Date: 4/12/20 4:00 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [c-car] Replacement motor
Did you guys choose a d&d that was of similar specs as your old ones?? Did you stay series or go sepex?? I'm tempted with he thought of tossing my f/r contacts with sepex, but I'd have to buy a new controller too... and mines not very old. Did you loose any top speed or torque?? It would be nice to gain some, but I definitely wouldn't want to loose any.?
Go with a D&D 6 HP.? That¡¯s. What I used On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:15, Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> wrote: Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
|
Re: Terrell axle ran without fluid findings.
Hopefully no damage done!? If there's a problem it will show itself. Keep a close eye on your fluid and magnet for a while to make sure it's not disintegrating behind your back.?
As title says it was filled to the wrong plug hole. Turns out this whole is a drain plug for if the axle was mounted differently. I made a new set up to test if it was ran dry. At the amount that was in it when I drove 10 miles it was below the splash pick up. It had about 2.5 oz in the case. At 3.5 oz it will splash and get some lubrication. The first drain I seen some small amount of glitter in the oil, nothing out of the ordinary for a yearly oil change. The magnet had nothing new stuck to it. I filled the oil to the proper amount 11oz and went back out for 10 miles. Dropped the oil and seen a small amount of glitter and about 3 or 4 pieces of metal the size of a grain of sand. I put an inspection camera in the diff and see no gouges or scratches. There is some where marks on the spiders and that is to be expected since the car has 40k miles. The gears are shiny and no scratches. There is no blue overheat color or the metal. Refilled the car with oil put it on stands and spun the wheels with the motor, no odd noises or new noises or leakes. Rock the wheels back and forth by hand and there is no grinding or excessive play just the normal lash between the gears (give or take 1/4 inch on the tire back and forth). I see no damage as of yet but most certainly did accelerate wear. I also used a royal purple 75w 90 as a lube. I imagine that this also helped with reducing wear becouse of its molecular bonding additives. The gears were spun at high speed in my mock test without the oil and they remained shiny, so I think the oil was still on the gears through the 10 miles. Let me know if you have questions or comments, I will call royal purple and ask about there oil, I am a nerd. Curious about there additive package and how it reacts on metal. Alot of new oils will impregnate the metal with anti wear protective coating and reduce wear in a situation like mine. Thanks if you held on this far in the email.?
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
|
Did you guys choose a d&d that was of similar specs as your old ones?? Did you stay series or go sepex?? I'm tempted with he thought of tossing my f/r contacts with sepex, but I'd have to buy a new controller too... and mines not very old. Did you loose any top speed or torque?? It would be nice to gain some, but I definitely wouldn't want to loose any.?
Go with a D&D 6 HP.? That¡¯s. What I used On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:15, Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> wrote: Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
|
Terrell axle ran without fluid findings.
As title says it was filled to the wrong plug hole. Turns out this whole is a drain plug for if the axle was mounted differently. I made a new set up to test if it was ran dry. At the amount that was in it when I drove 10 miles it was below the splash pick up. It had about 2.5 oz in the case. At 3.5 oz it will splash and get some lubrication. The first drain I seen some small amount of glitter in the oil, nothing out of the ordinary for a yearly oil change. The magnet had nothing new stuck to it. I filled the oil to the proper amount 11oz and went back out for 10 miles. Dropped the oil and seen a small amount of glitter and about 3 or 4 pieces of metal the size of a grain of sand. I put an inspection camera in the diff and see no gouges or scratches. There is some where marks on the spiders and that is to be expected since the car has 40k miles. The gears are shiny and no scratches. There is no blue overheat color or the metal. Refilled the car with oil put it on stands and spun the wheels with the motor, no odd noises or new noises or leakes. Rock the wheels back and forth by hand and there is no grinding or excessive play just the normal lash between the gears (give or take 1/4 inch on the tire back and forth). I see no damage as of yet but most certainly did accelerate wear. I also used a royal purple 75w 90 as a lube. I imagine that this also helped with reducing wear becouse of its molecular bonding additives. The gears were spun at high speed in my mock test without the oil and they remained shiny, so I think the oil was still on the gears through the 10 miles. Let me know if you have questions or comments, I will call royal purple and ask about there oil, I am a nerd. Curious about there additive package and how it reacts on metal. Alot of new oils will impregnate the metal with anti wear protective coating and reduce wear in a situation like mine. Thanks if you held on this far in the email.?
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
|
Go with a D&D 6 HP. ?That¡¯s. What I used
On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 10:15, Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> wrote: Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
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I have a d&d motor and love it. I had then add in the ability to make it forced air cooled. I can run the car 35 miles without stop and the motor temp gets only to about 160f. I can look up the part number if you want but the motor is for the terrell axle.? Speaking of which I had a fun day yesterday. I ran drained the diff and filled it to the plug line. Problem it was to the other dtain bolt plug line. Did not realize this and drove 10 miles. It had increased whine in the gears at a couple of points but no clunking. Got it home figured in would change the fluid again then seen how little was in it, maybe 3oz. Filled it properly took it for a drive and everything seems normal. Drained the fluid had some glitter but no chunks or anything out of the normal. We will see what happens in the future. Anyone do this before? What's your thoughts?
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-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Brice <dbrice3721@...> Date: 4/12/20 10:15 AM (GMT-05:00) Subject: [c-car] Replacement motor
Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
|
Well, I killed my motor. It was spectacular.? Somehow its grounded so when power went through it it turned my speedo cable into a speedo rod. It was surprising and smokey, and did not blow a fuse!? So I need a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions?? Currently running a sr48600.? I'll probably stick with a series motor again?? I have a transition car with the pinion mounted 6hp on the Dana axle. Any thoughts on d&d, or others?
|
Re: Buying into the frustration/THRILL comuta car experience....charger junk?
You'll be fine splicing another cable for the power. Use 14 gauge or larger for the ac side. That DC side plug may have 3 wires if it has a temp sensor or a power sensor lead.?
On Sun, Mar 15, 2020, 9:21 AM lowbid2001 via Groups.Io <lowbid2001= [email protected]> wrote: charger arrived
Its a Delta qui q setup for Ez Go golf cart and missing the power cord adapter
it is 48 volt charger though......
maybe splice in a regular plug for 110
and maybe cut the square ez go plug end put eyelets on
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Re: Buying into the frustration/THRILL comuta car experience....charger junk?
charger arrived
Its a Delta qui q setup for Ez Go golf cart and missing the power cord adapter
it is 48 volt charger though......
maybe splice in a regular plug for 110
and maybe cut the square ez go plug end put eyelets on
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Re: Buying into the frustration/THRILL comuta car experience....charger junk?
Wiring it is as simple as neg and pos, with the caveat that if you have the original series parallel contactor, care needs to be taken to ensure it doesn't end up in parallel while charging, or else 48 into 24...
On Fri, Mar 13, 2020, 8:48 AM lowbid2001 via Groups.Io <lowbid2001= [email protected]> wrote: Bought Delta q charger used off craigslist including shipping $150. Charger suppose to arrive
Saturday looked to be great condition. Six eight volt batteries all charged individually 12 volt charger reading 7.5v + each.? Will need to figure out how to wire this into the system. Need to buy a 12 volt battery.?
?
G
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Re: Buying into the frustration/THRILL comuta car experience....charger junk?
Bought Delta q charger used off craigslist including shipping $150. Charger suppose to arrive
Saturday looked to be great condition. Six eight volt batteries all charged individually 12 volt charger reading 7.5v + each.? Will need to figure out how to wire this into the system. Need to buy a 12 volt battery.?
?
G
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how about stabilizer bar? anyone got one on their machine?
Not sure if any need for one
the thought crossed my mind
seen this on a search for club car golf?
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the cost overrides the hassle with faded vinyl windows
the inability to even see out and safety aspect?
the ability to just roll down a glass window ....
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my perfect thought of a glass window setup
advice, a wet polishing cloth, and a plastic cream polish
i will post the pictures once i have my glass framed windows made and installed.
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What method of cleaning these vinyl windows is recommended?? They are hard to see through on my '75 CitiCar.
On Monday, March 9, 2020, 09:28:59 AM CDT, RC H <rc1917@...> wrote:
anyone ever thought of replacing the vinyl clear windows with an roll-up assembly from a small sports car?
just a thought ....
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I think that I'll be taking my windows to a boat shop and have them refurbished - no idea of cost
Bart
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Tony399
Nicholas Gee
Roy Egan