开云体育

I just got a great deal on a Citicar, thanks to Mike Chancey's EV
trading post. It's a white later Citicar with the quieter dana axle
and real doors. It drives, but barely. I'm going to transfer my
modifications from my earlier Citicar and sell my old one, so keep an
eye on the trading post
() if you're looking for
one.

Thanks again Mike!

Royce Chow
rufus@...

Mike, thanks alot for the info, on your State Farm policy. This
was all the information they needed, to get a basic recreational use
policy started on my C-Car for $100.00 a year. I still can't take it
on any major roads, but with the information from you latest post, I
may still have an opportunity the get the coverage I need and be able
to drive it anywhere. Thanks again Mike.
Getting back to the trimmer pot on the pack charger, I tried to
adjust the pot down, but only after it had reached it's average top
reading of 62.2 volts. I'll try it again after the next run when the
batterys are down a bit. When I first got this car, I bypassed the
dash amp gague and related wirring, because they were getting warm
even after replacing the connections. This improved the charge rate
from 17 amps to 24 amps and nothing gets warm but the charger. As a
temporary measure, I have used a clamp-on hall/effect DC ampmeter
probe, as a test device for checking various systems, such as loads
on the 12v battery. It will read as low as 1 amp for the parking
light circuit, and 8 amps for the highbeams. This ampmeter has
indicated readings as high as 565 amps on the main pack, in series,
at the middle of a short hill climb, in high speed. On level road and
in second speed, it will draw about 125 to 135 amps. I don't know how
accurate this method is but it gives me a crude method of what is
going on while I am working on a tight budget.
If I don't get back on the list before Monday,(D Day for the DMV)
I will let you all know if my C-Car gets legal.

Thanks again Jack

I don't know if this would help any, or if State Farm keeps records that far back, but when my 1975 CitiCar was insured with them, the policy number was 5560 722 A27 25. This was a liability only policy. I hope this helps.

Thanks,

Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at:
My Electric Car at:
Mid-America EAA chapter at:
Join the EV List at:

What on earth is wrong with the boys at State Farm? When I took my '75 Citicar to them for insurance in 1990 they were a bit surprised to discover they actually had the car listed in their books and had rates for it on file, right in the local office. They were still in the book in 1996 when I moved to Missouri. Unless they have lost all their paperwork, I can't imagine what the problem could be. I do recal they were listed under CitiCar and CommutaCar not Commuter Industries or Sebring-Vanguard.

I have also had several EVs insured through Farmer's Insurance, including the Citicar, a Jet Omni conversion, a Dodge TEVan and my Civic conversion. If you can't get anything working locally maybe my agent can get with your agent and make it happen.

Thanks,

Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at:
My Electric Car at:
Mid-America EAA chapter at:
Join the EV List at:

I'm about to finish the paperwork at DMV. This includes title
reconstruction, inspection, and getting tags. Beford I did this, I
went to State Farm Insurance Company to insure my 1980 C-Car. They
have taken great care of me in the past with my many regular cars.
They were able to write a policy for my C-car under a Classic/Antique
application, for less than $200.00 a year, with no collision coverage
but towing included. As of yet, I am not sure how much I will drive
this car but, I know that I will be putting alot less than the 12,000
combined yearly miles that I put on my 2 gas cars that I have full
coverage on at a monthly cost of $105.00. I paid my $90.00 for six
months of insurance and went to DMV. Two weeks later I got a $75.00
check in the mail from State Farm along with a regestered letter
saying that they canceled my polocy because their underwriters
did not recognize Commuter Vehicles Inc as an automobile manufacturer.
The young lady at State Farm reccomended a company that insured under
Progressive Insurance. So I went there today and I was given a quote
of nearly $1,400.00 a year for a minium polocy and no collision.
What do I do next? State Farm said they would try to write a policy
on my C-car, if I promised that I would not drive it on the open road,
and only in my neighborhood. I need help. What have other C-car
owners done about insurance without costing and Armature and a
Legiron?

Thanks for now

Jack at the Shack

Congrats on getting another one rolling!

The "can solenoid" is the middle speed (second).

First is the tall contactor closing with the dropping resistor in the circuit. (18 volts to motor)
Second is the can solenoid closing bypassing the resistor. (24 volts to motor)
Third is the shorter contactor switching from parallel to series. (48 volts to motor)

Turning on the "ignition" switch should cause the short contactor to switch over from series to parallel. If this isn't happening, then you are starting out with the batteries in series. This would mean about 36 volts in low and 48 volts in second, with no high. This is a great way to burn out a motor or contactor.

To understand your potential charging problem, you have to get an idea of what problems are encountered when charging strings of batteries in series. All batteries are not created equal. Some are going to have higher or lower internal resistance than others. Some are going to have a bit more or less capacity than the others. What this means is as you cycle a string of batteries from full charge to discharged back to full charge and so on, they will slowly get out of synch. During charging, some will reach full charge first, while others are still only part way there. To deal with this, charger designers add an equalization phase at the end of the cycle. During this phase, battery voltage is allowed to climb very high in order to insure all the batteries get to full charge. Unfortunately, there is a problem using sealed batteries with a charger designed for conventional flooded batteries. At the end of the charging cycle the voltage and current will be too high for the sealed batteries. This may cause them to gas, vent, and overheat. You can even encounter a problem called a thermal runaway. In a thermal runaway a fully charged battery is still being charged and begins to heat up. As it heats up its voltage drops causing it to draw more current. This causes more heating result in still lower voltage and even more current draw. If not caught you can end up with batteries going over 200 degrees and actually boiling. This will cause a least a permanent loss of capacity or more likely the permanent destruction of the battery. Some internal gassing is normal in batteries during charging. Flooded batteries gas at the end of the cycle, but they can be refilled with water. Sealed batteries cannot but the still must be equalized. There are several options available to deal with this problem.

Some EVers use "Rudman Regulators" or Batt-Pro regulators, electronic devices which by-pass any current over a certain voltage from the battery to a load. I had a set installed on my Civic EV conversion at one time. What they do, is when the voltage on a particular battery hits a trigger point, say 13.8 volts, the regulator kicks in, putting a 2 to 10 amp load across the battery, I used #1157 stop light bulbs for loads. This prevents the voltage on that battery from going higher, while allowing the other batteries to continue to rise. Of course, adding that load drops the battery's voltage, thereby switching the unit back off. What you end up with is individual units blinking on and off as the whole pack slowly moves towards full charge. Once every single one has blinked at least one, the pack is fully charged.

Another option is PowerCheq equalizers. These use a different method, simply moving electricity from the higher voltage batteries to the lower voltage batteries. Basically they are a 2 amp battery charger powered by two batteries, that compares the voltage of the two and charges one until it matches the other.

Yet another option is to turn down your charger to prevent the voltage from going high enough to damage the sealed batteries. Unfortunately, this will mean you are no longer equalizing them at all. You could solve this by simply charging each battery separately with a cheap 12 volt charger designed for sealed batteries. It would be better to use four, to insure each one gets a full run on its on. Several folks are even doing this as regular charging on EVs. This is referred to as modular chargers. While it works, there is the hazard that one of the chargers might fail and you might not notice. As a result the uncharged battery would get hammered the next time the car was operated. By the time you realize something is wrong that battery has been ruined.

The thing is, all these systems, Batt-Pros, Rudman Regs, and PowerCheqs usually cost more than the simple flooded golf cart batteries your CitiCar was designed for. Adding a $60 PowerCheq to a battery rather than using the $45 dollar battery the car was designed to use isn't good economics. Now if there are safety issues involved, and you have to use sealed batteries, then you are kind of stuck. In that case I would simply get four small 12 volt automatic chargers and take out the original one. That way each battery should get exactly what it wants without harming its neighbors. For a simple 48 volt car this might not be a bad option. On larger conversions with 120 to 192 volts, multiple chargers gets to be a pain.

You can find info on Rudman Regs at:

PowerCheq Equalizers at:

I hope this helps,

Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at:
My Electric Car at:
Mid-America EAA chapter at:
Join the EV List at:

On Friday night at school, we got our red 48V Citicar going. With
an advisor from a local electric forklift service co., he verified out
wiring. We lifted the back of the car and tested the motor and it went
well so then we proceded to the road test. Out into the school parking
lot we drove, getting lots of attention.
The car only seemed to have the lower two speeds with no top end.
Floored it would only go twenty so we think the can solenoid is bad.
All in all, I was very happy to get this car going after about a month
or two of after school work on it.
The batteries we are using out GNB opportunity charge. Our advisor
said that since they are sealed batteries, the charger in the car is
not ideal and he would look into it. Any similar problems around here?

-Ross

on my 75 citicar which I've had since one year old, I changed to silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) and stopped all pitting of brake cylinder bores.
To reduce bouncing of the contactor (series/parallel) due to foot movement over bumpy roads and excessive wear on microswitches and power contacts, I added a foot rest beside the accelerator pedal at about the level just before it switches to parallel. The old Model "A" Ford used the same technique. This has really saved on the cycling of micros and power contacts. Any questions contact evdon2001 at donruth215@....

Hi Jack,
The pot is for adj the regulator voltage at the end of charge. It
will however, also affect the charging rate too (amps). I had adj
mine to 56 volts after the batteries were fully charged. Be carefull,
if set to hi, the batteries will use plenty of water!
Take Care, Happy Holidays,
Electric Lou



-- In C-Car@y..., "rxlr888" <rxlr88@h...> wrote:

Most of the problems I have had in the begining were with the

brakes.

Not because they were worn out but because they sat for so long. I

did

notice that the rear brake axle flanges on the white 1980 C-car

could

be removed with the center nut in order to remove the wheel

cylinders.

However on the green C-car,it looks as if the diff cover would have

to

be removed to pull the axles all the way out, to get to the

cylinders.

Front cylinders on a C-car can be used on the rear. The only
difference is that the rear wheel cylinder axle hole is smaller to
hold a felt packing to keep the bearing somewhat protected. When I
ordered wheel cylinders (called spiders) from "Parts for Carts"

they

only had front ones for @ $120.00 each. The other problem I had was
with the brake drums. The bottom most part of the drum sweep area
had rust which caused a pulsating feeling in the brakes. The machine
shops that I took them to said that they couldn't resurface them
because they were stamped, not cast, and were to thin to resurface.
What I ended up doing is jacking up one rear wheel, removing that

tire

and drum and reinstalling the drum in reverse. Then I would set
(block) the "go" peddle in forward/low to let the drum spin so I
could clean up the drum with sand paper and steelwool. This is not

a

safe way to do this but it made unusable drums usable. Rust is like
cancer and once it starts to grow it will never stay away. Frequent
use of the car and brakes will help but I am looking for new drums.

I have rebuilt two of the three bulk chargers I have and the
circuit board parts are available through "Radio Shack" in store

and

on line. The two large diodes and the isolated large SCR I found
online from a small electronics store in Pennsylvania. One circuit
board has a small light bulb and the other two don't. I don't know
which is the "improved" verson. I also don't know what the 5K pot
does. Is it for charge current/voltage or is it for end charge
voltage/current adjustment? I have replaced all the under seat 12
volt wiring along with the accesary charger and battery. I used and
old Sears fully automatic 2/10 amp charger and found a good source
for used 75 amp sealed standby batterys at $10.00 each. These used
batterys work great as they last much longer per charge than the

bulk

pack. I also installed 4 automotive 30 amp relays with sockets,
available at the shack, to reduce the arcing on the throttle box
micro switches. They haven't failed yet.

I have to end this one now to close the store and count the

pennys.

Jack at the Shack

Most of the problems I have had in the begining were with the brakes.
Not because they were worn out but because they sat for so long. I did
notice that the rear brake axle flanges on the white 1980 C-car could
be removed with the center nut in order to remove the wheel cylinders.
However on the green C-car,it looks as if the diff cover would have to
be removed to pull the axles all the way out, to get to the cylinders.
Front cylinders on a C-car can be used on the rear. The only
difference is that the rear wheel cylinder axle hole is smaller to
hold a felt packing to keep the bearing somewhat protected. When I
ordered wheel cylinders (called spiders) from "Parts for Carts" they
only had front ones for @ $120.00 each. The other problem I had was
with the brake drums. The bottom most part of the drum sweep area
had rust which caused a pulsating feeling in the brakes. The machine
shops that I took them to said that they couldn't resurface them
because they were stamped, not cast, and were to thin to resurface.
What I ended up doing is jacking up one rear wheel, removing that tire
and drum and reinstalling the drum in reverse. Then I would set
(block) the "go" peddle in forward/low to let the drum spin so I
could clean up the drum with sand paper and steelwool. This is not a
safe way to do this but it made unusable drums usable. Rust is like
cancer and once it starts to grow it will never stay away. Frequent
use of the car and brakes will help but I am looking for new drums.

I have rebuilt two of the three bulk chargers I have and the
circuit board parts are available through "Radio Shack" in store and
on line. The two large diodes and the isolated large SCR I found
online from a small electronics store in Pennsylvania. One circuit
board has a small light bulb and the other two don't. I don't know
which is the "improved" verson. I also don't know what the 5K pot
does. Is it for charge current/voltage or is it for end charge
voltage/current adjustment? I have replaced all the under seat 12
volt wiring along with the accesary charger and battery. I used and
old Sears fully automatic 2/10 amp charger and found a good source
for used 75 amp sealed standby batterys at $10.00 each. These used
batterys work great as they last much longer per charge than the bulk
pack. I also installed 4 automotive 30 amp relays with sockets,
available at the shack, to reduce the arcing on the throttle box
micro switches. They haven't failed yet.

I have to end this one now to close the store and count the pennys.

Jack at the Shack

to: Jack from the Shack
You got a great find. Good luck with your great mode of transportation. After 26 years wih my Citicar they're great and a lot of fun. Some young kids laugh at it but most people give me the thumbs up signal. (I'm sure it's the thumb.) Anyhow I wish you good luck.
Want to hear more, Don

The first time I saw my 1980 Commutacar was 20 years ago when it
was sitting on the lot of a Chevrolet dealership. It was brand new
with a sticker price of $5,495.00. Even back then I thought they were
neat but expensive. In comparison a 1980 Chevy Monte Carlo (V8,A/T
P/S,A/C 2 door 6 passanger) was less than $4,000. Few of the 1/2
dozen or so Commutacars ever sold. When the owner died and the dealer-
ship closed, these Commutacars and about 20 Lectraleopards, along
with the rest of the GM stock were stored in a warehouse for the next
15 years or so. I lost track of them durring this time. At some point
an auction was held where some of these cars sold and the tow company
owner, who took care of the towing for the dealership, ended up with
the unsold cars. I saw this white Commutacar again in December 2000
along with a green one (both complete) and a red parts car. I say
parts car because this one sat outside for a long time with broken
windows and suffered from the sun,snow and rain. The red one had less
than 100 original miles. I bought all 3 along with the last remaing
Leopard. I spent the next year and $300.00 for two wheel cylinders
and two complete kits from "Parts For Carts". $520.00 for eight
Trogen Milage Masters,rebuilt pack charger and alot of rewiring with
parts from Radio Shack where I work. I had the car flatbedded down to
DMV last week for theft recovery (no title) and standard inspection.
It passed inspection and I drove it home with with a 30 day "T" tag
awaiting completion of the paperwork. Getting Insurance is a whole
other story. More on that later. This is my first e-mail message and
this c-car list is great!

Be back soon, Jack from the Shack

Hi Louie,
I ckecked with about a half dozen electrical supply houses locally with no luck until one suggested Gould Shawmut who had the fuse links same as originals. They are part RL #250 for(replaceable link). I just phoned them placed the order and they shipped in a day or so. I must have used a credit card because I have no record of a check. I think they were $2 or $3 ea.in Nov. 1995 (date on the box). I'm going to add a fuse link to one 24v. bank where the cable connects to the S/P contactor. It will take another standoff insulator to support the cable where it joins the outer fuse end.
Good luck,
see ya, Don

Hi Blaine,
Yes I would like to see a picture of your battery boxes. I have to
have new ones made up this winter, mine are rotted out from batteries
leaking acid. I guess I have the 6.13 rear, i remember years ago the
top end was 37 or 38 mph with new batts. Did you ever replace your
motor brushes? I am looking to purchase a set, but read somewhere
that the brushes in our motors have a special composition so they
will not burn up. Do you know where i can purchase the proper set (ge
6 hp motor). Also how nany amp hours are the batteries you are
currently using?
Take Care, Louie
-- In C-Car@y..., Blaine Wills <pinto_one@y...> wrote:

The mods on my commutacar are still going on , I
modifyed the battery boxes front and back to carry two
more six volt batterys in each box or 12 all together,
right now I am useing 9 Delfis 8 volt batterys , 72
volts altogether but at alittle over 300 lbs, willsend
some photos of the box if you like, also made a new
front bumper, on the brakes I use 5606 aircraft hyd
oil , (you guys with the disk brakes should use it
because the calapers are off a cessna) the tires are
spacesaver spare tires off a honda, 105 13" aired to
65 to 70lbs , it rolls very easy ,I use a sevcon 72
volt dc to dc converter and a motorcycle battery, and
a 400 amp curtis controler, this car has the hi speed
rearend 5.17 to 1 , I think the low speed 6.13 to one
went 38 mph, which one do you have,like to compare and
figure out what I realy need to make my speedometer
right, I think the motor was changed at one time
before I got it, as for the brushes they are copper
grafite , I have a amp meter and at 55 mph it pulls
125 amps , which is the max amp for the motor, at 75
amp it will do 45mph , the road here is flat with few
small hills,I drive alittle over 30 miles a day with
the car, serves me well , Hope this helps you ,yours
Blaine
--- Lou <ka2pfl@j...> wrote:

Hi Blaine,
I would sure like to know the mods you did to your
comutacar to
achieve 50 mph. I am in the process of restoring my
1980 comutacar. I
seem to remember the car did around 37 mph tops,
with 48 volts, does
this sound about right?
Are you using the stock 6 hp ge motor? Do the
brushes burn up?
Please fill me in, my inquiring mind would like to
know.
Thanks, Louie
PS sorry I cannot help with the spedo gear.



--- In C-Car@y..., Blaine Wills <pinto_one@y...>
wrote:

Hello I am new to the group and have a 81 commuta

car

,72 volts with a curtis controler, I live over

here in

missisippi , kind of flat here with black top

roads

and found out that my speedometer is 10 mph slow

,got

stopped doing over 50 in a 35, I think that the

angle

drive that bolts to the end of the motor is the

wrong

ratio, its marked 3.25 on the end , I have the hi
speed rear, does any one with the low speed (that
reads 10mph fast)rear want to trade angele drives,
called new car but they havent a clue, anybody

have

one they want to sell please let me know , thanks

Blaine

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Hi Don,
Yes you are correct, A fuse at each bank would be smart, I will look
into it. How much did the fuse links cost and how many amps are they
rated for?
Take Care, Louie
--- In C-Car@y..., evdon2001@y... wrote:

Hi Lou,
I think it's a good idea to add a fuse in either bank of batteries

to prevent a direct short between the banks if the contactor messes
up. I've gotten spare fuse replacable links from Gould Shawmut. I'm
anxious to find out here spare contacts for the citicar can be
purhased.

Thanks, Don

Hi Tim,
Well thanks for taking the time to look for the contactor. You are
correct, the 2 I need are double pole double throw, DPDT. So far I
have located a source of 3 of the 4 stationary contacts, no luck on
the movable contact yet, but have a supplier looking for them. I will
post the supplier and part numbers for all of you once I have the
proper contacts in my hand.
Take Care, louie
- In C-Car@y..., Tim Dunning <tdunning@c...> wrote:

Hi Louie,
I'm sorry it took me so long to do, but I did find the spare

contactor I

have. Unfortunately, it does not seem to be an S/P model - it is

set up as a

single pole double throw (SPDT), not a DPDT as I think the

series/parallel

model is. Also it has a 24 volt coil. I'm sorry to have raised

your hopes.

Good luck on your quest.
Tim

Hi Tim,
I am actually looking for the contacts for the contactors. Both

of

my comutacar contactors have bad contacts. I took the contactors
apart to try to clean up the contacts, but the silver contacts are
eroded away.
What really killed the contactors, was the movable contact that

is

screwed to the relay armature unscrewed itself, and decided to

make a

nice path to ground, while the car was running, spark spark, burn
burn!
If your contactor is in good shape, I would be happy to purchase

it

from you.
The company I was trying to purchase contacts from today SMH inc,
refused to sell to me because I am not a dealer. I told them I

would

be happy to pay retail, but they would still not sell to me,

bummer.

So my quest for contacts continues...........
Take Care,
Louie from NJ

- In C-Car@y..., Tim Dunning <tdunning@c...> wrote:

Hi,
I'm not sure if you are looking for the parallel/series

contactor

for Commuta

-Car, but I think I have a unit that may be just that in my junk

box. I will

not be able to look for it until Friday, but will let you know

what

it seems

to be.
Thanks,
Tim

Thanks for the info Ross. I just found out tonight that the

contacts

for the citicar and the comutacar are different! My comutacar
contacts have a much longer t section where the wiring

connects. I

have had no luck so far finding a dealer with contacts. I found

a

fork lift company on the internet with a on line catalogue and

found

a match for 1 of the stationary contacts. I had never noticed

that

there is a right and left contact. each contact has a "flag"

section

that is larger on opposite sides. This is the area where the

ceramic

spacer mounts. The online catalogue has measurements which

matched

my

1 contact exactly, just need to match the other 1, so far

cannot

find

it.
I will contact the company tommorow, and hopefully find a

match.

When I get the proper contacts, I will post the part numbers.
Hopefully, then no 1 will have to go through the crap I have

gone

through trying to locate contacts for the contactor.
Take Care All,
Louie (aka Electric Lou) LoL







- In C-Car@y..., dconrad@d... wrote:

Well this is what we found out.
The replacements we found were identical to the old

parts.

Oddly

they were from a brand new contactor assembly, so new the

forklift

parts guy could
only find one distributor that had started selling them.

They

were

made by Caterpillar or Daewoo and we found them in an

Entroupa

Parts

Catalogue.
Every distributor had a different ID number on them, of which

there

were about 12. Since the contactor assembly used on the

Citicar

was

made by HB
electric, also search under HB Prestolite.
Our 300 amp fuse is good as new so we haven't had to look

for

any.

Somehow we want to include a fuse between the batteries and

the

contactor incase
of problems.

-Ross Conrad

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Hi Louie,
I'm sorry it took me so long to do, but I did find the spare contactor I
have. Unfortunately, it does not seem to be an S/P model - it is set up as a
single pole double throw (SPDT), not a DPDT as I think the series/parallel
model is. Also it has a 24 volt coil. I'm sorry to have raised your hopes.
Good luck on your quest.
Tim

don paine (donruth215@...)
The first rear end problem in about 1980 was a growl on left side rea, caused by a bad left rear wheel bearing easily obtained from local brng. supplier.
Next about five years apart I broke the second leaf on the left rear spring which I replaced with a leaf from an old 41 Chrysler leaf.
Next while traveling along our Manchester sometimes washboard sections of road I broke the right rear main leaf, which stopped me dead in the road. The main leaf broke at the front end causing tha axle to shift back causing the emergency brake to lock.After blocking the body up and safety wiring the axle forward I could drive home. I found a complete spring at Electric Car Man for $75 plus shipping or I could have a main leaf made locally for $15. Obviously I chose the latter.
Next I read in an old Electric Vehicle News (published in 70 and 80s) in nearby Westport CT that the Terrell axle was prone to cracking at the right side of the differential at the torque tube junction. So I put a block between the back end of the motor and the torque tube and used a threaded rod U bolt to clamp them together to stiffen up the assembly.
Lastly, I had the right rear spring shackle U bolt nuts looosen and drop the body again. Now I have all shackle bolt double nutted to prevent this from happening again.
Bye for now, Don

Hi Lou,
I think it's a good idea to add a fuse in either bank of batteries to prevent a direct short between the banks if the contactor messes up. I've gotten spare fuse replacable links from Gould Shawmut. I'm anxious to find out here spare contacts for the citicar can be purhased.
Thanks, Don

The mods on my commutacar are still going on , I
modifyed the battery boxes front and back to carry two
more six volt batterys in each box or 12 all together,
right now I am useing 9 Delfis 8 volt batterys , 72
volts altogether but at alittle over 300 lbs, willsend
some photos of the box if you like, also made a new
front bumper, on the brakes I use 5606 aircraft hyd
oil , (you guys with the disk brakes should use it
because the calapers are off a cessna) the tires are
spacesaver spare tires off a honda, 105 13" aired to
65 to 70lbs , it rolls very easy ,I use a sevcon 72
volt dc to dc converter and a motorcycle battery, and
a 400 amp curtis controler, this car has the hi speed
rearend 5.17 to 1 , I think the low speed 6.13 to one
went 38 mph, which one do you have,like to compare and
figure out what I realy need to make my speedometer
right, I think the motor was changed at one time
before I got it, as for the brushes they are copper
grafite , I have a amp meter and at 55 mph it pulls
125 amps , which is the max amp for the motor, at 75
amp it will do 45mph , the road here is flat with few
small hills,I drive alittle over 30 miles a day with
the car, serves me well , Hope this helps you ,yours
Blaine
--- Lou <ka2pfl@...> wrote:

Hi Blaine,
I would sure like to know the mods you did to your
comutacar to
achieve 50 mph. I am in the process of restoring my
1980 comutacar. I
seem to remember the car did around 37 mph tops,
with 48 volts, does
this sound about right?
Are you using the stock 6 hp ge motor? Do the
brushes burn up?
Please fill me in, my inquiring mind would like to
know.
Thanks, Louie
PS sorry I cannot help with the spedo gear.



--- In C-Car@y..., Blaine Wills <pinto_one@y...>
wrote:

Hello I am new to the group and have a 81 commuta

car

,72 volts with a curtis controler, I live over

here in

missisippi , kind of flat here with black top

roads

and found out that my speedometer is 10 mph slow

,got

stopped doing over 50 in a 35, I think that the

angle

drive that bolts to the end of the motor is the

wrong

ratio, its marked 3.25 on the end , I have the hi
speed rear, does any one with the low speed (that
reads 10mph fast)rear want to trade angele drives,
called new car but they havent a clue, anybody

have

one they want to sell please let me know , thanks

Blaine

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