Re: Trying to figure out what my car is
The batteries were not in it when I bought it. That would be an easy way to check though.
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Re: Trying to figure out what my car is
Harry,
You should contact Peter Crisitello, He has been keeping records on all these cars for years and can probably piece together the info with you.
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I am trying to figure out exactly what my car is. The s/n is 1117 and everything on the car seems to be original. The motor is a 3.5hp, 36V but there are SV-48 stickers on the car. Per Wikipedia, "Prior to car #1501, CitiCars left the factory as 36 volt models; most had a 2.5 hp Baldor motor, but a few had the 3.5 hp GE motor." Looks like they made a 36V as well as a 48V, 3.5hp motor? Is mine a SV-36?
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Re: Trying to figure out what my car is
Are the batteries still in the car?
|
Trying to figure out what my car is
I am trying to figure out exactly what my car is. The s/n is 1117 and everything on the car seems to be original. The motor is a 3.5hp, 36V but there are SV-48 stickers on the car. Per Wikipedia, "Prior to car #1501, CitiCars left the factory as 36 volt models; most had a 2.5 hp Baldor motor, but a few had the 3.5 hp GE motor." Looks like they made a 36V as well as a 48V, 3.5hp motor? Is mine a SV-36?
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Re: Beautiful Commutacar for sale in NY
Please. You use it when you’re plowing snow.
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On Sep 22, 2020, at 5:42 PM, Richard Oleson <rick.oleson@...> wrote:
? No, that would be silly.? It was originally red, this was a police interceptor. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Visit my very own website at / ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ??/
.... or just photos and stuff at?
That rotating amber light on the roof is a bit odd... Is that for when it is towing?a vehicle?
Might want to check out this car just for reference.? Really cool one near me but don't have that much $ to invest:
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Re: Beautiful Commutacar for sale in NY
No, that would be silly.? It was originally red, this was a police interceptor. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Visit my very own website at / ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ??/
.... or just photos and stuff at?
That rotating amber light on the roof is a bit odd... Is that for when it is towing?a vehicle?
Might want to check out this car just for reference.? Really cool one near me but don't have that much $ to invest:
|
Re: Beautiful Commutacar for sale in NY
That rotating amber light on the roof is a bit odd... Is that for when it is towing?a vehicle?
Might want to check out this car just for reference.? Really cool one near me but don't have that much $ to invest:
|
Beautiful Commutacar for sale in NY
Might want to check out this car just for reference.? Really cool one near me but don't have that much $ to invest:
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
Yes, absolutely, only better.? In the X-ray world, we have a tube parameter called IHU or International Heat Units.? The units are BTU-seconds.? This is a measure of how much energy the anode (where the electrons strike to make X-rays) can receive and dissipate without damage.? The anode is tungsten embedded in a large copper bar.? The actual exposure, which lasts only a fraction of a seconds, imparts up to millions of BTU to the anode.? The copper absorbs the heat energy from the small tungsten button and, since the tube is under vacuum, radiates it away over time.? The higher the IHU rating, the longer an exposure can be, or more commonly in a busy medical setting, how often the tube can be energized.
The almost exact same thing applies to "overloaded" series motors, the only difference being that air surrounds the motor winding. The motor world simply lacks a catchy term like IHU.? The more massive the winding assembly is, the more heat it can store during extremely high loads, to be dissipated as the load decreases. That's why epoxy dipping and baking the pole windings does so much good.? Motor varnish is highly heat conductive so it draws heat off the windings and into the bulk of the assembly.
The epoxy used is 100% solids - no solvent, so there are no voids in the cured product.? Ideally the stator would be VPI (vacuum pressure impregnated) which is a process where the stator is placed in a pressure vessel.? A vacuum is drawn on it to remove all air from the space between the windings.? Then the epoxy is forced in under pressure.? This pressure causes it to penetrate all voids and compresses the tiny bit of air that remains until no bubbles exist.
Atmospheric dipping will work but ONLY if the technician leaves the stator in the epoxy for an extended period of time.? Our shop practice is 2 hours.
Under normal conditions, the motor amp profile is similar to an X-ray tube.? Very high current lasts only a few seconds while accelerating up to speed.? Then it drops to whatever is required to overcome drag and rolling resistance.
Climbing hills, which is a special condition, is a whole different situation. There, there is a high amperage load for an extended period of time.? I never engaged my controller bypass on steep hills.? I just creeped up at the controller current limit of 450 amps.
I also had a very good temperature indicator.? Don't rely on the cheap chicom indicators which rely on thermistors.? Instead, use a bare tipped thermocouple, covered with heat-shrink and wiggled deep in the field winding before the stator is dipped.? Spend the money on a good industrial temperature indicator.? I bought one from Omega Engineering for about $75.? It ran on from 5 to 45 volts.? It drew such a tiny amount of power that I simply tapped my pack at the 45 volt point.? It can handle any type of thermocouple and displays the temperature to one decimal point.? I have a thermocouple calibrator on which I maintain an INIST-traceable calibration.? My indicator was always spot-on right down to the decimal degree every time I tested it.
The class H epoxy is rated to 140 deg c.? I set my limit to 100 deg C.? for testing I mounted a small camera and a process control infrared temperature pyrometer to look at a brush and holder assembly.? I was looking at temperature and for the trailing arc length.? The brushes got considerably hotter than the field which is why I limited the field winding to 100 deg C.
The arcing phenomena can be controlled by advancing the brush assembly about 5 deg.? That requires a bit of machining but it can be done with a die grinder and a steady hand.? Interpoles, also called commutation poles that fit between the main poles, completely solve the arcing problem but I could not find a pole piece in the catalog small enough to fit the Terrel axle motor's main field windings.? machining poles was out of the question before on-line CAD-CAM services.
All the above applies to the stock motors.? The D&D motor is vastly more rugged.? Someone correct me if my memory is faulty but I think it contains interpoles which enables it to withstand heavy overloads.? I installed one on a customer's 72 volt car.? I ordered a 45 volt motor.? I'm not recommending this unless you have the proper test equipment to evaluate the situation.? This worked out great.? I equipped the motor with a thermocouple temperature indicator and never saw more than 80 deg C, even after a long hill climb.
As always, one must consider the load on the axle.? Either my mods or the D&D motor applies much more torque than the axle was designed for.? A guaranteed gear breaker is wheel hop during hard acceleration.? This can partially be addressed with better shocks.? A good friend owns the local NAPA dealership.? He received a lot of technical info from the major manufacturers that the typical NAPA store makes available to the customer.? We picked out a shock with more upward damping and less rebound damping. This limited how high off the road the rear axle can rise off the road and allows the springs to force the wheel back down faster. this limits how much the motor can increase speed while the tires are off the ground, thus limiting the inertial load on the gears when the wheel(s) touch back down.? The result is a harsher ride but gears that live.
I just can't recall the shock we selected.? Yellow and blue come to mind so probably Monroe.? Now that everything is online, shock selection will be much easier.
with either motor, fitting a high pressure blower to the motor tremendously increases the overload capability.? You must buy a high pressure blower and not an ordinary squirrel-caged blower. There are high pressure squirrel-cage blowers but they must be selected by catalog spec.
All high pressure blowers are noisy.? very noisy.? So you'll probably want to fit a Klixon thermal switch to the motor field. I selected one that turned on at 40 deg C and turned off at 35.? I think Digikey has them.? Granger certainly does.? The type I'm talking about looks like a slightly squared cylinder about an inch long.? It can be high temperature RTV'd to the field winding.
The blower inlet must be flex-hosed into the passenger compartment to prevent the intake of rain and road debris and in colder climates, to keep out ice and snow.? It is loud.? I fabricated a muffler out of fiberglass and polyester resin that knocked the noise down to a low roar.
out of advice for now,
John
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On 9/10/20 11:22 AM, Roy Egan via groups.io wrote: 72v motor action
would that same technique work for a Commuta car motor think 6hp
like homemade wire upgrade system to handle the heat
think motors d@d 600-800
looks like least 100-200 parts on a gamble plus time
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
For tutorials, I’m usually going to YouTube. Specifically for Citi/Comuta- car/van, there aren’t many. I’ve made a public playlist of about 200 C-Car videos. I found the CitiCarTom channel on YouTube has a lot of great advice and repair videos. David Brunson also has a couple that are pretty good for a motor install and breaks. I still need to go through my curated list and organize the order in which videos appear.
For everything else, I’m often watching videos on repairing and upgrading cars, golf carts, buggies, ATVs, EVs, boats, off-grid systems, and small airplanes.
I tend to jokingly refer to YouTube as YouTube-U (university) since it’s practically a choose your own university course adventure.
The C-Car community is also extremely helpful. My thoughts are - don’t be afraid to post a video about what you are doing. Someone is bound to need it and your thoughts eventually, including yourself.
John, Thanks for a very good tutorial.? I watch so many good ones on YouTube for various projects that I work on.? Does this group have a site for similar tutorials or threads?
On Wednesday, September 9, 2020, 10:28:47 AM CDT, NeonJohn < jgd@...> wrote:
Yes, absolutely you can raise the front wheels IF you supply enough
amps.? When I did mine about 10 years ago, I cut my front shroud and
made it into a hood.? I put the extra PbA batteries up front.? I used an
Altrax 72450 450 amp controller.? This is unsatisfactory compared to the
contract controller.? with the contact controller, flooring the pedal
from a barely rolling start (to prevent burning a commutator bar), the
current to the motor hard-pegged my 1000 amp tong tester.? The
electronic controller by itself will supply a fraction of the torque
supplied by the contact controller.? In a series motor, torque is
generally treated proportional to the amps^2.
What I did was prepare the motor on my Terril axle motor for the added
current
The ultimate current limit is that which makes the trailing arcs from
the brushes reach the adjacent brush and flash over.? This can be
eliminated by fitting the motor with arc scrapers.? These are small
pieces of mica (min 2, preferably 3) mounted at an angle opposed to the
rotation of the armature.? They almost touch the armature.? The rotating
air near the commutator directs the arc off and away from the
commutator,? What arc escapes the first scraper is caught by the second
one.
Now the limit is the brush lead.? I took my brushes to my friend's (who
unfortunately died a couple of months ago) electric motor shop.? I
drilled a second hole in the rear of the brush and cemented a second
lead into the hole with a copper dust/mercury amalgam.? I also had the
stator dipped in Class H epoxy varnished and baked to cure it.? This
greatly slows the rate of heating at high current AND it gives the field
coils the strength not to blow off the poles at >1000 amps.
Since 450 amps is rather puny, I designed a controller bypass contactor
system.? This contactor takes the controller out of the circuit and
connects the battery directly to the motor a la the contact controller.?
I designed an electronic board that is essentially a comparator.? A
microswitch detects WOT.? One can't slam 72 volts onto the motor when
the car is stationary.? Almost guaranteed to lift commutator bar(s) and
probably break gears in the axle.? The board monitors the voltage across
the motor.? I had mine set to 20 volts which is <5mph.? When the voltage
is reached, the board closes the bypass controller.
When that happens, my car, even with the heavy PbA batteries up front,
the steering got extremely light.? I'm not sure if the wheels actually
left the ground but if not, they had practically no weight on them.? I
clocked the car with my radar gun at 55mph. That's not the ultimate
speed.? That's the speed when I ran out of guts!? The front wheels have
almost no caster and essentially no toe to reduce rolling drag.? I built
a jig so I could twist the axle such that it had 2 deg of caster and
added 1/2" of toe-in. This nominally reduces the range but with a 72
volt pack, you and your butt will wear out before the pack does.
One other consideration if you go to this level of torque is the
possibility of breaking the axle gears.? I had a spare axle or I would
not have gone this far.
Before the steering geometry changes, at 50 mph, the car was almost
uncontrollable.? worse, a bump (as in rolling over a large gravel) would
cause it to hobby-horse.? I'm a former racer and am essentially feerless
in a vehicle.? This had me white-knuclked!
When I had to sell my car because of health problems, I was working on
fitting a sub-compact front axle to the car.? I had picked out the doner
car but for the life of me I can't recall what model.? I also planned to
lengthening the frame for more stability.? The previous owner had
sheathed the car with aluminum panels (a very good job) so extending the
panels would be simple.
To address another problem that was raised last week, namely the front
brakes locking up and not releasing until the car came to a stop, here's
the problem and solution.
Be SURE to read the update.? That is where the problem is described and
fixed.
I don't recall what the Leaf battery amp rating is but I'm fairly sure
you'll have to parallel two packs to supply the amperage.? I suggest a
contactor that separates the packs for charging so that each pack has
its own BMS.
PS:
A note about Tong Testers.? Everything I could find with a quick look on
Google about this device is wrong.? As usual, Wikipedia is completely wrong.
The Tong Tester is a totally mechanical moving vane type of ammeter.? It
measures AC, DC or AC riding on DC with equal accuracy.? It indicates
true RMS.? It typically comes in a kit with the tong that clamps around
the conductor and 4 range cartridges.? A cartridge is inserted into the
tong and the magnetic field from the tong acts on an iron vane connected
to the pointer.? It is the most accurate and repeatable ammeter I own.
Unfortunately it's been out of manufacture for a long time. They
occasionally show up on sleazebay.? Two things to make sure of.? 1) the
kit consists of the tong and 4 range cartridges. I've seen them for sale
with only one or two cartridges. Second, the tong and the cartridges
have small numbered stickers on them.? All numbers must be alike.? The
cartridges have been individually calibrated to that individual tong.
I'll dig up some photos when I return from the (arggghh) dentist.
This device is so good that when I was doing my work-scholarship in a
TVA nuclear plant, TVA would pay me to go to hamfests to buy up as many
as I could.
John
On 9/9/20 6:06 AM, Roy Egan via wrote:
> looks like 72 volts is the way to go for getting up to speed
> anyone got the setup ...... d and d motor
> lithium batteries
> like the sound of front tires coming off the ground
> is that possible with 4" wide tires
>
>
>
>
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
72v motor action would that same technique work for a Commuta car motor think 6hp like homemade wire upgrade system to handle the heat think motors d@d?600-800 looks like least 100-200 parts on a gamble plus time
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
John, Thanks for a very good tutorial.? I watch so many good ones on YouTube for various projects that I work on.? Does this group have a site for similar tutorials or threads?
On Wednesday, September 9, 2020, 10:28:47 AM CDT, NeonJohn <jgd@...> wrote:
Yes, absolutely you can raise the front wheels IF you supply enough
amps.? When I did mine about 10 years ago, I cut my front shroud and
made it into a hood.? I put the extra PbA batteries up front.? I used an
Altrax 72450 450 amp controller.? This is unsatisfactory compared to the
contract controller.? with the contact controller, flooring the pedal
from a barely rolling start (to prevent burning a commutator bar), the
current to the motor hard-pegged my 1000 amp tong tester.? The
electronic controller by itself will supply a fraction of the torque
supplied by the contact controller.? In a series motor, torque is
generally treated proportional to the amps^2.
What I did was prepare the motor on my Terril axle motor for the added
current
The ultimate current limit is that which makes the trailing arcs from
the brushes reach the adjacent brush and flash over.? This can be
eliminated by fitting the motor with arc scrapers.? These are small
pieces of mica (min 2, preferably 3) mounted at an angle opposed to the
rotation of the armature.? They almost touch the armature.? The rotating
air near the commutator directs the arc off and away from the
commutator,? What arc escapes the first scraper is caught by the second
one.
Now the limit is the brush lead.? I took my brushes to my friend's (who
unfortunately died a couple of months ago) electric motor shop.? I
drilled a second hole in the rear of the brush and cemented a second
lead into the hole with a copper dust/mercury amalgam.? I also had the
stator dipped in Class H epoxy varnished and baked to cure it.? This
greatly slows the rate of heating at high current AND it gives the field
coils the strength not to blow off the poles at >1000 amps.
Since 450 amps is rather puny, I designed a controller bypass contactor
system.? This contactor takes the controller out of the circuit and
connects the battery directly to the motor a la the contact controller.?
I designed an electronic board that is essentially a comparator.? A
microswitch detects WOT.? One can't slam 72 volts onto the motor when
the car is stationary.? Almost guaranteed to lift commutator bar(s) and
probably break gears in the axle.? The board monitors the voltage across
the motor.? I had mine set to 20 volts which is <5mph.? When the voltage
is reached, the board closes the bypass controller.
When that happens, my car, even with the heavy PbA batteries up front,
the steering got extremely light.? I'm not sure if the wheels actually
left the ground but if not, they had practically no weight on them.? I
clocked the car with my radar gun at 55mph. That's not the ultimate
speed.? That's the speed when I ran out of guts!? The front wheels have
almost no caster and essentially no toe to reduce rolling drag.? I built
a jig so I could twist the axle such that it had 2 deg of caster and
added 1/2" of toe-in. This nominally reduces the range but with a 72
volt pack, you and your butt will wear out before the pack does.
One other consideration if you go to this level of torque is the
possibility of breaking the axle gears.? I had a spare axle or I would
not have gone this far.
Before the steering geometry changes, at 50 mph, the car was almost
uncontrollable.? worse, a bump (as in rolling over a large gravel) would
cause it to hobby-horse.? I'm a former racer and am essentially feerless
in a vehicle.? This had me white-knuclked!
When I had to sell my car because of health problems, I was working on
fitting a sub-compact front axle to the car.? I had picked out the doner
car but for the life of me I can't recall what model.? I also planned to
lengthening the frame for more stability.? The previous owner had
sheathed the car with aluminum panels (a very good job) so extending the
panels would be simple.
To address another problem that was raised last week, namely the front
brakes locking up and not releasing until the car came to a stop, here's
the problem and solution.
Be SURE to read the update.? That is where the problem is described and
fixed.
I don't recall what the Leaf battery amp rating is but I'm fairly sure
you'll have to parallel two packs to supply the amperage.? I suggest a
contactor that separates the packs for charging so that each pack has
its own BMS.
PS:
A note about Tong Testers.? Everything I could find with a quick look on
Google about this device is wrong.? As usual, Wikipedia is completely wrong.
The Tong Tester is a totally mechanical moving vane type of ammeter.? It
measures AC, DC or AC riding on DC with equal accuracy.? It indicates
true RMS.? It typically comes in a kit with the tong that clamps around
the conductor and 4 range cartridges.? A cartridge is inserted into the
tong and the magnetic field from the tong acts on an iron vane connected
to the pointer.? It is the most accurate and repeatable ammeter I own.
Unfortunately it's been out of manufacture for a long time. They
occasionally show up on sleazebay.? Two things to make sure of.? 1) the
kit consists of the tong and 4 range cartridges. I've seen them for sale
with only one or two cartridges. Second, the tong and the cartridges
have small numbered stickers on them.? All numbers must be alike.? The
cartridges have been individually calibrated to that individual tong.
I'll dig up some photos when I return from the (arggghh) dentist.
This device is so good that when I was doing my work-scholarship in a
TVA nuclear plant, TVA would pay me to go to hamfests to buy up as many
as I could.
John
On 9/9/20 6:06 AM, Roy Egan via groups.io wrote:
> looks like 72 volts is the way to go for getting up to speed
> anyone got the setup ...... d and d motor
> lithium batteries
> like the sound of front tires coming off the ground
> is that possible with 4" wide tires
>
>
>
>
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
No joke there! A few times I really thought my head might pop through the roof over bumps my other vehicles dont even notice.?
I'm sure you can get the front tires coming off the ground by running over a pothole. You'll feel like Evel Knievel about to jump over a?canyon. Just be prepared for that landing on the other side.
looks like 72 volts is the way to go for getting up to speed
anyone got the setup ...... d and d motor
lithium batteries
like the sound of front tires coming off the ground
is that possible with 4" wide tires
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
I'm sure you can get the front tires coming off the ground by running over a pothole. You'll feel like Evel Knievel about to jump over a?canyon. Just be prepared for that landing on the other side.
looks like 72 volts is the way to go for getting up to speed
anyone got the setup ...... d and d motor
lithium batteries
like the sound of front tires coming off the ground
is that possible with 4" wide tires
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
Yes, absolutely you can raise the front wheels IF you supply enough amps.? When I did mine about 10 years ago, I cut my front shroud and made it into a hood.? I put the extra PbA batteries up front.? I used an Altrax 72450 450 amp controller.? This is unsatisfactory compared to the contract controller.? with the contact controller, flooring the pedal from a barely rolling start (to prevent burning a commutator bar), the current to the motor hard-pegged my 1000 amp tong tester.? The electronic controller by itself will supply a fraction of the torque supplied by the contact controller.? In a series motor, torque is generally treated proportional to the amps^2.
What I did was prepare the motor on my Terril axle motor for the added current
The ultimate current limit is that which makes the trailing arcs from the brushes reach the adjacent brush and flash over.? This can be eliminated by fitting the motor with arc scrapers.? These are small pieces of mica (min 2, preferably 3) mounted at an angle opposed to the rotation of the armature.? They almost touch the armature.? The rotating air near the commutator directs the arc off and away from the commutator,? What arc escapes the first scraper is caught by the second one.
Now the limit is the brush lead.? I took my brushes to my friend's (who unfortunately died a couple of months ago) electric motor shop.? I drilled a second hole in the rear of the brush and cemented a second lead into the hole with a copper dust/mercury amalgam.? I also had the stator dipped in Class H epoxy varnished and baked to cure it.? This greatly slows the rate of heating at high current AND it gives the field coils the strength not to blow off the poles at >1000 amps.
Since 450 amps is rather puny, I designed a controller bypass contactor system.? This contactor takes the controller out of the circuit and connects the battery directly to the motor a la the contact controller.? I designed an electronic board that is essentially a comparator.? A microswitch detects WOT.? One can't slam 72 volts onto the motor when the car is stationary.? Almost guaranteed to lift commutator bar(s) and probably break gears in the axle.? The board monitors the voltage across the motor.? I had mine set to 20 volts which is <5mph.? When the voltage is reached, the board closes the bypass controller.
When that happens, my car, even with the heavy PbA batteries up front, the steering got extremely light.? I'm not sure if the wheels actually left the ground but if not, they had practically no weight on them.? I clocked the car with my radar gun at 55mph. That's not the ultimate speed.? That's the speed when I ran out of guts!? The front wheels have almost no caster and essentially no toe to reduce rolling drag.? I built a jig so I could twist the axle such that it had 2 deg of caster and added 1/2" of toe-in. This nominally reduces the range but with a 72 volt pack, you and your butt will wear out before the pack does.
One other consideration if you go to this level of torque is the possibility of breaking the axle gears.? I had a spare axle or I would not have gone this far.
Before the steering geometry changes, at 50 mph, the car was almost uncontrollable.? worse, a bump (as in rolling over a large gravel) would cause it to hobby-horse.? I'm a former racer and am essentially feerless in a vehicle.? This had me white-knuclked!
When I had to sell my car because of health problems, I was working on fitting a sub-compact front axle to the car.? I had picked out the doner car but for the life of me I can't recall what model.? I also planned to lengthening the frame for more stability.? The previous owner had sheathed the car with aluminum panels (a very good job) so extending the panels would be simple.
To address another problem that was raised last week, namely the front brakes locking up and not releasing until the car came to a stop, here's the problem and solution.
Be SURE to read the update.? That is where the problem is described and fixed.
I don't recall what the Leaf battery amp rating is but I'm fairly sure you'll have to parallel two packs to supply the amperage.? I suggest a contactor that separates the packs for charging so that each pack has its own BMS.
PS:
A note about Tong Testers.? Everything I could find with a quick look on Google about this device is wrong.? As usual, Wikipedia is completely wrong.
The Tong Tester is a totally mechanical moving vane type of ammeter.? It measures AC, DC or AC riding on DC with equal accuracy.? It indicates true RMS.? It typically comes in a kit with the tong that clamps around the conductor and 4 range cartridges.? A cartridge is inserted into the tong and the magnetic field from the tong acts on an iron vane connected to the pointer.? It is the most accurate and repeatable ammeter I own.
Unfortunately it's been out of manufacture for a long time. They occasionally show up on sleazebay.? Two things to make sure of.? 1) the kit consists of the tong and 4 range cartridges. I've seen them for sale with only one or two cartridges. Second, the tong and the cartridges have small numbered stickers on them.? All numbers must be alike.? The cartridges have been individually calibrated to that individual tong.
I'll dig up some photos when I return from the (arggghh) dentist.
This device is so good that when I was doing my work-scholarship in a TVA nuclear plant, TVA would pay me to go to hamfests to buy up as many as I could.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 9/9/20 6:06 AM, Roy Egan via groups.io wrote: looks like 72 volts is the way to go for getting up to speed
anyone got the setup ...... d and d motor
lithium batteries
like the sound of front tires coming off the ground
is that possible with 4" wide tires
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
looks like 72 volts is the way to go for getting up to speed
anyone got the setup ...... d and d motor
lithium batteries
like the sound of front tires coming off the ground
is that possible with 4" wide tires
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
72 volts is the way to go!? It makes so much difference in the performance of the car.? Li batteries are the way to go now but I'd do whatever I had to regarding a BMS to get at least 72 volts under load.? Several years ago I called Alltrax and talked to the engineer/owner.? Can't recall his name.? He told me that he uses 200 volt transistors in the 72 volt controller and that up to 90 volts on the input is safe.? That is not to say that one should exceed 72 volts.? It means that the controller is well protected against surges, load dumps, etc.
Plan on putting the batteries up front if you want to avoid wheelies, especially if you also do a controller bypass.
The D&D will easily handle the additional voltage.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 9/7/20 8:43 PM, Roy Egan via groups.io wrote: do volts make a difference
48 vs 72
going for 10hp motor d and d
will it change performance
such a nice setup for 48 volts
with chevy volt lithium batteries
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
Voltage makes a huge difference. I went from 48 to 60 volts with my Citicar, and did some testing at 72 volts. Higher voltage resulted in much faster acceleration, but at the expense of hotter motor temperatures and comm plasma at high loads.? Tom Keenan
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 7, 2020, at 5:43 PM, Roy Egan via groups.io <lowbid2001@...> wrote:
?do volts make a difference
48 vs 72
going for 10hp motor d and d
will it change performance
such a nice setup for 48 volts
with chevy volt lithium batteries
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
do volts make a difference
48 vs 72
going for 10hp motor d and d
will it change performance
such a nice setup for 48 volts
with chevy volt lithium batteries
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
My drum brakes work better than my tires. I just dislike the cost of the spider and seals. Some 7" brakes that are cheaper exist somewhere beyond what I have been able to locate with a real backing plate and a $20 wheel cylinder.?
On Thu, Sep 3, 2020 at 01:08 PM, NeonJohn wrote:
NO.? The disc brakes Vanguard used were from a small airplane and totally inadequate.? The usual conversion is from disc back to drums.
My understanding was the calipers didn't float properly and gave a lot of issues.? But I don't have discs on mine to confirm this.? ??
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Harry Armstrong
Tyler
Richard Oleson
NeonJohn
Roy Egan