Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
On Thu, Sep 3, 2020 at 01:08 PM, NeonJohn wrote:
NO.? The disc brakes Vanguard used were from a small airplane and totally inadequate.? The usual conversion is from disc back to drums.
My understanding was the calipers didn't float properly and gave a lot of issues.? But I don't have discs on mine to confirm this.? ??
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
On 9/3/20 12:05 PM, The Chez wrote: Are disc breaks better than drum breaks? I feel like just tapping on my
break pedal has the potential to lock up the wheels.
NO.? The disc brakes Vanguard used were from a small airplane and totally inadequate.? The usual conversion is from disc back to drums. The wheel locking problem and the remedy is explained here. John
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
On 9/3/20 12:05 PM, The Chez wrote: I couldn?€?t find a shunt motor, and D&D said the only motor available was
the series wound. How did you determine the new motor is 10HP? Series motors really don't have a fixed HP rating.? A manufacturer might specify a horsepower rating for a given temperature rise but the motor is capable of much more. Example.? My C-car had the motor inline with the axle.? 6HP?? I don't recall.? I converted my car to 72 volts, added additional motor cooling and brush reinforcements. I installed an Altrax 72 volt, 400 amp controller.? I also installed a controller bypass contactor that took the controller out of the circuit and applied full battery to the motor, along with the custom circuitry necessary to operate the bypass contactor. I use a Tong Tester, a purely mechanical moving vane ammeter to measure the motor current. I also had a G-meter.? This gadget attaches somewhere stable like the dashboard on a regular car.? It uses the vehicle's weight and an accelerometer to compute HP.? It picked up gas engine RPM from the ignition noise on the cigarette lighter power cord.? Not applicable here, of course.? With a gas engine it would generate a plot of RPM vs HP and torque on a PC. On level ground, I set the bypass controller to bypass the AXE at 20 volts on the motor.? Flooring the accelerator, the car accelerated to about 5 MPH before the bypass kicked in.? I had put the extra batteries in front of the dashboard so the front wheels didn't lift but the steering got very light.? The G-meter calculated a peak HP of around 75 HP (I don't recall the exact number).? the 1000 amp Tong Tester hard pegged on the 1000 amp scale. The actual short-term HP limit is when the trailing arc from each brush reaches the next brush and arc over.? Variable brush timing and/or arc scrapers raise the limit even further.? arc scrapers are pieces of mica sheet that almost touch the commutator and are angled against rotation.? Their function is to lift the arc away from the commutator. John
I?€?d be interested if you could make extra body parts for sale in the future.
Are disc breaks better than drum breaks? I feel like just tapping on my
break pedal has the potential to lock up the wheels.
On Thu, Sep 3, 2020 at 10:57 AM ibdilbert01 via groups.io <ibdilbert01=
[email protected]> wrote:
I'll list out the current setup, but it is probably going to change a bit
in the near future.
Four Sections of Chevy Volt Batteries (Still configured at 48 volts, 8kWh)
Alltrax AXE-7245P (Configured to limit current at 300 amps, and configured
to shut down at 36v)
Schauer Battery Charger (Configured for Lithium Cobalt, cutoff voltage is
50.4v)
J1172 Kit for Public Charging, purchased from
ES-40D-56 Electric Motor by D&D Motor Systems, 10 HP, 5000RPMs
Volt Batteries
These can found cheaper if you look around. I've seen full Chevy Volt
batteries sell for less than $1000 bucks on ebay. Some will say a BMS is
not required, but personally I feel your limiting their life as when they
get older, the cells will start to charge irregularly. Basically what ends
up happening is some cells charge quicker, and become overcharged, slowly
degrading the life of the battery. Even a cheap BMS will go a long way
with these batteries.
Controller
I'm using the older Alltrax because I originally bought it for another
CitiCar that I own. Its capable of pushing up to 72 volts and 450 amps.
Alltrax has made some changes and their new models appear to be better.
Battery Charger
Schauer is in my back yard, I like supporting local companies. These
folks are awesome! You can pretty much order a custom charger, albeit
they are pricy. I do personally feel their chargers are top notch in
quality. I have model JAC1548H, normally configured for lead acid. They
reconfigured it for Lithium Cobalt, with a cut off voltage of 50.4v. It
doesn't have a lot of the bells and whistles like the newer Lesters, its
just a simple reliable charger that works. The batteries are kind of
sensitive, you should never charge a 48 volt pack past 50.4 volts and never
discharge them below 36 volts.
The Motor
The original motor seemed to get pretty toasty in the semi hilly terrain
that I live in. The D&D model mentioned is a direct drop in, except the
existing forced cooling on the CitiCar needs reworked a bit. I have not
done this yet, but its also worth mentioning the new motor doesn't get hot.
Public Charging
The adapter I purchased was for a Zero Electric Motorcycle. Basically a
public charger will deliver 240v when negotiated. If your charger is
capable of running off 240v, then this adapter will work for you. The
Schauer auto senses its input voltage, so it was a good candidate for this
adapter.
Minor Upgrades
Radial Tires, a great improvement in ride over the trailer tires that came
with the car. Most of lights have been replaced with LED lights, including
the headlights. Retractable seat belts have been installed. A 48 volt to
12 volt converter runs all the accessories, no need for a 12v accessory
battery.
Things that still need done.
GPS speedometer, the new D&D motor would need to be modified a bit to keep
the stock speedometer, I'd rather just replace it with a GPS speedometer,
I've already purchased one. A better battery meter needs installed, I have
a cheap voltage indicator that works pretty well, but I've purchased a
nicer one that also shows amps. The reverse contactor is a bit sticky on
mine, I have an Allbright that needs installed, they are a bit more robust
anyhow. Pretty much all the wiring needs replaced, but I plan on pulling
all the body panels off, making molds and recreating them in fiberglass. I
really hate ABS. At that time, I'll rewire the car. For now, I've just
been having fun. Probably going to convert the brakes to disk brakes, I
have some ideas, but still researching. I have plenty of battery to spare,
an electric heater box is going to be installed for heat.
Some added notes from my mangled thoughts
Is it worth it? Well, who restores a classic car to be cheap and save
money? Nope, its not worth it but its cool and fun! The car drives much
differently than the original configuration. Everything is smooth and at
this point very reliable. A 72 volt configuration would give the car more
top end for sure, maybe I'll reconfigure the batteries someday, but for
now, I'm ok with the top speed of ~35mph. I'm also thinking upgrading to
a Shunt Motor would of been a better option as well, as you could get
regenerative breaking and overall better performance.
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
The brake caliper on one of the front disk brakes on my '75 Citicar cracked and I wanted to convert to drum front brakes.? At that time I contacted the vendor that seems most likely to understand these issues.? He did but could offer no options for me as a front axle with drums wasn't available.? I was lucky to find someone who could weld the crack and so far it held.? Getting the springs on the drum brakes I found to be near impossible.? My car is all original and not being used due to the cost of batteries.? I think the brakes, motor, contactors and suspension all have to be problem free or spending that amount of money on updating the batteries and charging system are not worth it. John
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
10 HP was per Eric at D&D.? ?As for Disc Brakes, they dissipate heat better, also better performance in wet conditions.? Our cars are so light and small, none of this probably really matters.??
I think the rear ends of our cars are either from a Cushman, or maybe a club car.? ?I'm learning towards Cushman, and I think a motor compatible with an early Cushman would fit our cars.
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
I couldn¡¯t find a shunt motor, and D&D said the only motor available was the series wound. How did you determine the new motor is 10HP?
I¡¯d be interested if you could make extra body parts for sale in the future.
Are disc breaks better than drum breaks? I feel like just tapping on my break pedal has the potential to lock up the wheels.?
On Thu, Sep 3, 2020 at 10:57 AM ibdilbert01 via <ibdilbert01= [email protected]> wrote: I'll list out the current setup, but it is probably going to change a bit in the near future.? ?
?
Four Sections of Chevy Volt Batteries (Still configured at 48 volts, 8kWh)
Alltrax AXE-7245P (Configured to limit current at 300 amps, and configured to shut down at 36v)
Schauer Battery Charger (Configured for Lithium Cobalt, cutoff voltage is 50.4v)
J1172 Kit for Public Charging, purchased from
ES-40D-56 Electric Motor by D&D Motor Systems, 10 HP, 5000RPMs
?
Volt Batteries
These can found cheaper if you look around. I've seen full Chevy Volt batteries sell for less than $1000 bucks on ebay.? Some will say a BMS is not required, but personally I feel your limiting their life as when they get older, the cells will start to charge irregularly. Basically what ends up happening is some cells charge quicker, and become overcharged, slowly degrading the life of the battery.? Even a cheap BMS will go a long way with these batteries.
?
Controller
I'm using the older Alltrax because I originally bought it for another CitiCar that I own.? Its capable of pushing up to 72 volts and 450 amps. Alltrax has made some changes and their new models appear to be better.
?
Battery Charger
Schauer is in my back yard, I like supporting local companies.? ?These folks are awesome!? ?You can pretty much order a custom charger, albeit they are pricy.? I do personally feel their chargers are top notch in quality.? I have model JAC1548H, normally configured for lead acid.? They reconfigured it for Lithium Cobalt, with a cut off voltage of 50.4v.? It doesn't have a lot of the bells and whistles like the newer Lesters, its just a simple reliable charger that works.? The batteries are kind of sensitive, you should never charge a 48 volt pack past 50.4 volts and never discharge them below 36 volts.?
?
The Motor
The original motor seemed to get pretty toasty in the semi hilly terrain that I live in.? ?The D&D model mentioned is a direct drop in, except the existing forced cooling on the CitiCar needs reworked a bit.? I have not done this yet, but its also worth mentioning the new motor doesn't get hot.
?
Public Charging
The adapter I purchased was for a Zero Electric Motorcycle.? Basically a public charger will deliver 240v when negotiated.? If your charger is capable of running off 240v, then this adapter will work for you.? The Schauer auto senses its input voltage, so it was a good candidate for this adapter.?
?
Minor Upgrades
Radial Tires, a great improvement in ride over the trailer tires that came with the car.? Most of lights have been replaced with LED lights, including the headlights.? Retractable seat belts have been installed.? A 48 volt to 12 volt converter runs all the accessories, no need for a 12v accessory battery.??
?
Things that still need done.
GPS speedometer, the new D&D motor would need to be modified a bit to keep the stock speedometer, I'd rather just replace it with a GPS speedometer, I've already purchased one. A better battery meter needs installed, I have a cheap voltage indicator that works pretty well, but I've purchased a nicer one that also shows amps.? The reverse contactor is a bit sticky on mine, I have an Allbright that needs installed, they are a bit more robust anyhow. Pretty much all the wiring needs replaced, but I plan on pulling all the body panels off, making molds and recreating them in fiberglass.? I really hate ABS.? At that time, I'll rewire the car.? For now, I've just been having fun.? Probably going to convert the brakes to disk brakes, I have some ideas, but still researching. I have plenty of battery to spare, an electric heater box is going to be installed for heat.
?
Some added notes from my mangled thoughts
Is it worth it?? Well, who restores a classic car to be cheap and save money?? Nope, its not worth it but its cool and fun!? ?The car drives much differently than the original configuration.? Everything is smooth and at this point very reliable.? A 72 volt configuration would give the car more top end for sure, maybe I'll reconfigure the batteries someday, but for now, I'm ok with the top speed of ~35mph.? ?I'm also thinking upgrading to a Shunt Motor would of been a better option as well, as you could get regenerative breaking and overall better performance.? ?
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
You¡¯ll also need a GPS speedometer. The motors end is capped off. You can¡¯t even put a Hall effect sensor on it.?
You¡¯ll probably want a J1772 inlet/adapter on the car as well to use public charging stations - and those require a few simple components ?to talk to the EVSE. And that goes with having a portable EVSE at home to verify everything works first¡
The whole project is a passion. Fun, entertainment. By time I¡¯m done, a model 3 Tesla would probably be cheaper. It depends on how far you want to go with it. I go around town quite often with my dog to parks, so I¡¯m getting a lot of use out of it. Plus I love learning new things. I don¡¯t expect to get the money I put into it through a sale. I think all of the cars that are in really good condition are hard to come by on the market because the people who own them have put so much of their soul into the cars restoration/modernization.?
I¡¯ll have to get prices of everything updated on my blog, but here is most of the stuff I¡¯ve been upgrading.?
Battery cutoff switch400A Fuse Main contact switch Motor controller Forward and reverse switch Motor
Fuse block (for 12v) Fuse block (for 48v) DC-to-DC 48v to 12v converter? Automotive wire, ring and spade terminals Pot box
Lithium Charger? Lithium Battery Modules BMS for each battery module Volt/Amp monitor 2/0 wire and lugs
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
I'll list out the current setup, but it is probably going to change a bit in the near future.? ?
?
Four Sections of Chevy Volt Batteries (Still configured at 48 volts, 8kWh)
Alltrax AXE-7245P (Configured to limit current at 300 amps, and configured to shut down at 36v)
Schauer Battery Charger (Configured for Lithium Cobalt, cutoff voltage is 50.4v)
J1172 Kit for Public Charging, purchased from https://www.tucsonev.com/
ES-40D-56 Electric Motor by D&D Motor Systems, 10 HP, 5000RPMs
?
Volt Batteries
These can found cheaper if you look around. I've seen full Chevy Volt batteries sell for less than $1000 bucks on ebay.? Some will say a BMS is not required, but personally I feel your limiting their life as when they get older, the cells will start to charge irregularly. Basically what ends up happening is some cells charge quicker, and become overcharged, slowly degrading the life of the battery.? Even a cheap BMS will go a long way with these batteries.
?
Controller
I'm using the older Alltrax because I originally bought it for another CitiCar that I own.? Its capable of pushing up to 72 volts and 450 amps. Alltrax has made some changes and their new models appear to be better.
?
Battery Charger
Schauer is in my back yard, I like supporting local companies.? ?These folks are awesome!? ?You can pretty much order a custom charger, albeit they are pricy.? I do personally feel their chargers are top notch in quality.? I have model JAC1548H, normally configured for lead acid.? They reconfigured it for Lithium Cobalt, with a cut off voltage of 50.4v.? It doesn't have a lot of the bells and whistles like the newer Lesters, its just a simple reliable charger that works.? The batteries are kind of sensitive, you should never charge a 48 volt pack past 50.4 volts and never discharge them below 36 volts.?
?
The Motor
The original motor seemed to get pretty toasty in the semi hilly terrain that I live in.? ?The D&D model mentioned is a direct drop in, except the existing forced cooling on the CitiCar needs reworked a bit.? I have not done this yet, but its also worth mentioning the new motor doesn't get hot.
?
Public Charging
The adapter I purchased was for a Zero Electric Motorcycle.? Basically a public charger will deliver 240v when negotiated.? If your charger is capable of running off 240v, then this adapter will work for you.? The Schauer auto senses its input voltage, so it was a good candidate for this adapter.?
?
Minor Upgrades
Radial Tires, a great improvement in ride over the trailer tires that came with the car.? Most of lights have been replaced with LED lights, including the headlights.? Retractable seat belts have been installed.? A 48 volt to 12 volt converter runs all the accessories, no need for a 12v accessory battery.??
?
Things that still need done.
GPS speedometer, the new D&D motor would need to be modified a bit to keep the stock speedometer, I'd rather just replace it with a GPS speedometer, I've already purchased one. A better battery meter needs installed, I have a cheap voltage indicator that works pretty well, but I've purchased a nicer one that also shows amps.? The reverse contactor is a bit sticky on mine, I have an Allbright that needs installed, they are a bit more robust anyhow. Pretty much all the wiring needs replaced, but I plan on pulling all the body panels off, making molds and recreating them in fiberglass.? I really hate ABS.? At that time, I'll rewire the car.? For now, I've just been having fun.? Probably going to convert the brakes to disk brakes, I have some ideas, but still researching. I have plenty of battery to spare, an electric heater box is going to be installed for heat.
?
Some added notes from my mangled thoughts
Is it worth it?? Well, who restores a classic car to be cheap and save money?? Nope, its not worth it but its cool and fun!? ?The car drives much differently than the original configuration.? Everything is smooth and at this point very reliable.? A 72 volt configuration would give the car more top end for sure, maybe I'll reconfigure the batteries someday, but for now, I'm ok with the top speed of ~35mph.? ?I'm also thinking upgrading to a Shunt Motor would of been a better option as well, as you could get regenerative breaking and overall better performance.? ?
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
I¡¯ll have to get prices of everything updated on my blog, but here is most of the stuff I¡¯ve been upgrading.?
Battery cutoff switch 400A Fuse Main contact switch Motor controller Forward and reverse switch Motor
Fuse block (for 12v) Fuse block (for 48v) DC-to-DC 48v to 12v converter? Automotive wire, ring and spade terminals Pot box
Lithium Charger? Lithium Battery Modules BMS for each battery module Volt/Amp monitor 2/0 wire and lugs
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
Have to applaud??1d10cracy .....my opinion you have the recipe for success moving forward these citi/commuta cars.
Installing newer technology in an old platform golf cart/car. Curious if so kind create a build list.
My guess is...
Lithium volts two at $850 ea 1700....
controller? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?guess? ? ? 500
charger? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? guess? ? ? 500
wires etc? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 200
charging station kit? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 400
may include receptor
rough estimate? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? $3200
Could get skeptical and ask group is this a game changer for these cars? If you had the wisdom
of 1d10cracy to put this together. Do the values go up for original setup batteries or adding the technology.
Is this 5-10k toy a good investment.....probably got it wrong....its not about the money. Its about preserving history and responsible ownership/having fun/sharing information.....or
Its about getting in a car when you turn the key does what it suppose too.....gets you from point A to B.
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, ... Volt BMS?
Robert,
The Volt batteries do not have BMS built into them, but there is an orange connection on top that allows easy attachment of a BMS.? ? The BMS that I am using doesn't allow charging to pass through it.? It balances low cells by feeding those lower cells from the higher charged cells.? Its sort of constantly making adjustments, even as your charging.? ? The charger itself is a separate unit made by Schauer, a company based in Cincinnati Ohio.
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
Hi Jerry, Roy,
He is charging a lot, but he is also the only seller I could find selling "new" 2015 Chevy Volt batteries.? Everyone else I could find selling them were selling used ones pulled from wrecks or pulling good cells from full sets that GM had replaced.? There probably isn't an issue with that either, as the BMS on the Volt is outstanding, I just wanted new ones. The 1d10cracy YouTube channel is mine BTW.? ?The guy selling the expensive volt batteries name is Allen, he was on the original battery design team of the Tesla Coupe.? ?He has some interesting stories and is easy to listen too.??
To answer Roy's question regarding the motor controller, its an older Alltrax 7245p, I purchased it years ago for another CitiCar that I own.
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, ... Volt BMS?
Hi Roy and All, ? Exactly what I've done using the same EZGo transaxle in my EV trike pickup thought using the stock motor and hotrodding it though to only 45mph so it'll last.? 103mph is a bit too fast for my taste. ?My new aero subcar I'm chain increasing the ratio so I can do 70mph with 2 folk lift motors, one to go faster and the other to tow my trailer at speed and get 200 mile + range on new Bolt modules. It cuts unsprung weight so the ride isn't so harsh too. Don't try this with a Ccar as the brakes, suspension is only good for 50mph at the most. My Yamaha 1000cc front end is good for 140mph but I'm more than fine with just 70mph and likely to drive more at 60mph anyway. Thanks for the vid, it was cool! Jerry Dycus? ? ?
On Friday, August 7, 2020, 03:02:26 AM PDT, Roy Egan via groups.io <lowbid2001@...> wrote:
in line with a dream
here you go
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, ... Volt BMS?
in line with a dream
here you go
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
Hi Tom and All,? ? ? ?Sad to hear he is charging so much for the batteries, $850 for 2kwh? as I'm charging just $700 for 4kwh. ? ? ? And less/kwh? for larger packs. .? ? ? ? I don't do Facebook so if one wants to repost my posts there I'm fine with that.? We really all need to be on this, the original list. ? ? ? ? ?Jerry Dycus
On Thursday, August 6, 2020, 03:07:18 AM PDT, Tom Rymes <tom@...> wrote:
I can¡¯t say for certain on any of this, Roy. I do know that I bought a modern Lester charger for my car for $350.
The guy that made the video is on the Facebook group. It¡¯s weird to me how scattered the community is for these cars. There is this list, and then at least four groups on Facebook. It¡¯s hard to share information, because you have to post it in five different places.
Tom
On Aug 5, 2020, at 11:31 PM, Roy Egan via groups.io <lowbid2001@...> wrote:
?looked at the link on youtube.....great video Tom thanks....makes what have currently obsolete...and just posted Aug 2, 2020 fresh meat.
everything in that
if only had the knowledge and $ to put that together
plug in to current charging stations.......and park in their preferred parking spaces
loose the weight of lead acid?
guy had some money in those goodies..like 500 for the charger?
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 850 each for the batteries and he had two
Could not see how much the controller mentioned went for ....google search guessing 4-5 hundred
next dream is handling like a vette and 0-60 times in the 3 sec. range
not bad for a guy who has no clue how this car even works?
having fun putting on a coat of wax for now
one step at a time
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
I can¡¯t say for certain on any of this, Roy. I do know that I bought a modern Lester charger for my car for $350.
The guy that made the video is on the Facebook group. It¡¯s weird to me how scattered the community is for these cars. There is this list, and then at least four groups on Facebook. It¡¯s hard to share information, because you have to post it in five different places.
Tom
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 5, 2020, at 11:31 PM, Roy Egan via groups.io <lowbid2001@...> wrote:
?looked at the link on youtube.....great video Tom thanks....makes what have currently obsolete...and just posted Aug 2, 2020 fresh meat.
everything in that
if only had the knowledge and $ to put that together
plug in to current charging stations.......and park in their preferred parking spaces
loose the weight of lead acid?
guy had some money in those goodies..like 500 for the charger?
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 850 each for the batteries and he had two
Could not see how much the controller mentioned went for ....google search guessing 4-5 hundred
next dream is handling like a vette and 0-60 times in the 3 sec. range
not bad for a guy who has no clue how this car even works?
having fun putting on a coat of wax for now
one step at a time
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, ... Volt BMS?
I don't?understand his reference to a BMS and his charger.? Is the BMS built into the battery pack in the VOlt?? I don't?see any multi-cell BMS cable to the charger? Bob
looked at the link on youtube.....great video Tom thanks....makes what have currently obsolete...and just posted Aug 2, 2020 fresh meat.
everything in that
if only had the knowledge and $ to put that together
plug in to current charging stations.......and park in their preferred parking spaces
loose the weight of lead acid?
guy had some money in those goodies..like 500 for the charger?
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 850 each for the batteries and he had two
Could not see how much the controller mentioned went for ....google search guessing 4-5 hundred
next dream is handling like a vette and 0-60 times in the 3 sec. range
not bad for a guy who has no clue how this car even works?
having fun putting on a coat of wax for now
one step at a time
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
looked at the link on youtube.....great video Tom thanks....makes what have currently obsolete...and just posted Aug 2, 2020 fresh meat.
everything in that
if only had the knowledge and $ to put that together
plug in to current charging stations.......and park in their preferred parking spaces
loose the weight of lead acid?
guy had some money in those goodies..like 500 for the charger?
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 850 each for the batteries and he had two
Could not see how much the controller mentioned went for ....google search guessing 4-5 hundred
next dream is handling like a vette and 0-60 times in the 3 sec. range
not bad for a guy who has no clue how this car even works?
having fun putting on a coat of wax for now
one step at a time
|
Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
Hi Chris and All, ? ? ? ? You are correct I was using an Curtis E controller but it died so I replaced it with 2 resistor step 3 speed but my trike is 300 lbs lighter than a Ccar. ? ? ? ? ?So a 400+ amp E controller and preferable 650amp would be the best way. ? ? ? ? ?I'll be replacing it with a 72vdc controller and 36vdc Bolt modules, 2 in series for higher speed. ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Jerry Dycus??
On Wednesday, August 5, 2020, 10:36:35 AM PDT, kriss_davis via groups.io <kriss_davis@...> wrote:
A question about using a Volt battery pack in? citicar.? I am assuming you would need a continuous speed controller.? That you could not use the factory contactor setup as there would be no where to take the lower voltages off.?? Kriss Davis Normal, IL 1975 citicar.??
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Re: Reviving lead batteries, buying new ones, Need Help getting 1980 Commuta going
A question about using a Volt battery pack in? citicar.? I am assuming you would need a continuous speed controller.? That you could not use the factory contactor setup as there would be no where to take the lower voltages off.?? Kriss Davis Normal, IL 1975 citicar.??
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NeonJohn
Roy Egan