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Re: Welcome! (Or... "Is this thing on?")
I join you Allen , thank you all for the good works ! Henry On Tue, Sep 11, 2018 at 12:23 PM allen wood via Groups.Io <al4303=[email protected]> wrote: Yes, I'm on and glad that we've made the move. Thank you for your good efforts. |
Re: OK the old guy made it over here !! Henry
OK . NOT the oldest guy , eh ? Henry? On Tue, Sep 11, 2018 at 11:39 AM Alfred Erdmann <oklacnw@...> wrote: Hmmmmm. at 85 I thought? was the "old guy"?? LOL! |
Re: OK the old guy made it over here !! Henry
Very Happy about that! WELCOME! Walter On Mon, Sep 10, 2018 at 11:15 AM Henry Hultgren <huligin62@...> wrote: |
Re: Making and fitting window inserts for Mantua extruded aluminum passenger cars
My apologies , Hobby Lobby has MOD Podge [matte' ] , it works super fine for ''smaller windows in Cabeeses' !!! I apply it using a wooden stick . Toothpick , Kabob spear ?? Get a large portion , come in from back side , or put some smaller amounts on the stick , get the matte' to get onto the window frame . Stir the stick around the edges faster until it begins to fill the widow cavity , then remove the stick . ?? Try till' you get your own way to do it . Dries Christal clear . Hope this helps ?? Henry
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-------------------------------------------- On Thu, 9/6/18, Henry Hultgren via Groups.Io <huligin62@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [YardbirdTrains] Making and fitting window inserts for Mantua extruded aluminum passenger cars To: [email protected] Date: Thursday, September 6, 2018, 5:39 PM Walter ! Have you? used "Hodge Podge ? It's a Matte used by artists . It work very well in smaller windows . Micro Scale makes Kristal Clear , I used the other one . Try it? ?? Henry -------------------------------------------- On Thu, 9/6/18, Walter <bayerw2@...> wrote: Subject: [YardbirdTrains] Making and fitting window inserts for Mantua extruded aluminum passenger cars To: [email protected] Date: Thursday, September 6, 2018, 11:32 AM I can easily cut the length and width on my mini table saw. The problem is the corners. What tool can I use to make the tight radius corners? A friend suggested a router. Has anyone overcome this problem? How? What tools did you use?? Filing the corners down by hand is possible, but accuracy and uniformity are hard to achieve with hand tools. Plus doing four corners on each window for a dozen or so cars is a daunting proposition. Thanks for your help. Walter P.S.: I am cross posting this on a few sites. Sorry if that annoys anyone. Please bear with me. |
Re: Filling holes
I¡¯ve had the problem of putty shrinking over time with every brand I¡¯ve tried, probably half a dozen different brands. ?So, for plastic at least, I first plug the holes with Evergreen styrene rod. ?If there¡¯s no rod the right size, I drill the hole out to fit the next size larger rod. ?I glue the plug in place with a thin plastic cement¡ªlately I¡¯ve been using Tamiya¡ªand leave the end of the plug just proud of the surface. ?When the cement is good and set up I slice/file/sand the plug flush with the surface then use putty, something thin like Dr. Microtools, to finish.
John Bopp |
Re: Filling holes
NOT Squadron Green. It shrinks, and you will NOT be happy.
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I use JB Quick, black tape over the front, car laid on that side until itc sets, sand off. -----Original Message-----
From: "Henry Hultgren via Groups.Io" <huligin62@...> |
Re: Kitbashed PRR K4s
Pennroad made many mods , valve gear ?? . B&O did too on their P7 Class . I wanna' see when you get her done !! Model Power made spoked drivers for their 4-6-2 in the last years ?? Let me in on it if you find a bunch ??? Henry
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-------------------------------------------- On Thu, 9/6/18, Roger Huber via Groups.Io <trainpainter@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [YardbirdTrains] Kitbashed PRR K4s To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Date: Thursday, September 6, 2018, 7:56 PM Doug, Well, doesn't every Pennsy modeler need "just one more K4s"? lol I think this is a very neat conversion and would love to see it when it's finished. Those aren't disk drivers. They are Box Pok.?I'm no expert but I don't recall Tyco/Mantua Pacifics having the spoked drivers you mentioned. Maybe Bowser K-11 drivers might work? I think you and I are in the minority liking the "modernized" front ends. Very interesting model!?Roger HuberDeer Creek Locomotive Works From: Doug Kisala via Groups.Io <dougkisala@...> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, September 6, 2018 9:42 PM Subject: [YardbirdTrains] Kitbashed PRR K4s Hello list, You may ask why I would need to kitbash an HO scale PRR K4s 4-6-2 since there have been (amongst others) the Bowser, Bachmann, MTH, and Broadway Limited versions. ?As with many kitbashing questions, the answer is just a skosh complicated. ? I attached a couple of shots of what will become PRR K4s 5455. ?k45455.jpg The first prototype photo shows the engine about 1947. ? The second shows the engine probably in the middle of WWII, but shows the main disc-type driver better.?prr_5455_4-6-2a_ft_dix_nj.jpg A few years ago I purchased a Bowser "13,000 gallon" tender (really an early 130F82 that can stand in for a 130P75) and a Sunset/Samhongsa PRR K4s boiler from another modeling friend. Initially, I had no idea what I'd do with the pieces. ?Last year, I bought a used Mantua 4-6-2 that had (amongst other cosmetic flaws) a cracked cab. ?I had one remaining Alliance Mantua 4-6-2 reposer kit, so I fit it to the model. ? Once I saw photos of K4s 5455 with the main disc-type driver, I thought the Mantua chassis (albeit with all disc-type drivers) could work with the Samhongsa K4s boiler. ?If I can get a supply of more Mantua spoked Pacific drivers, I could get closer to the prototype, but that's not the end of the world for me. ? I test fit the Samhongsa boiler to the Mantua chassis, and after a bit of grinding on the firebox front sheets, the boiler fit nicely onto the chassis. ?I'm still building up a pad of .030 styrene attached to the boiler so that it will eventually sit level on the Mantua chassis. I just got the engine running with a very basic decoder installation. ?So now I have a Mantua 4-6-2 with a Korean boiler and a Bowser tender....very American. :) I like the modernized front end appearance (relocated headlight and generator, along with front platform and drop coupler pilot). ?I plan on finishing the model to represent the prototype's general configuration in 1947. Doug Kisala |
Re: Filling holes
I used to use Squadron Green ??? Is it not available ? Then body putty ??? Henry H.
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-------------------------------------------- On Thu, 9/6/18, Bob Yarger via Groups.Io <bobyar2001@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [YardbirdTrains] Filling holes To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Date: Thursday, September 6, 2018, 6:53 PM Automotive spot putty should work well. ?It is an air-dry product that dries quickly and sands easily. ?Buy a small tube, as it will eventually dry out and become unusable in the tube. ?I use it in woodworking, on vehicles and just about anything that will be painted.?Bob Yarger From: "alankilby@..." <alankilby@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, September 6, 2018 1:43 PM Subject: [YardbirdTrains] Filling holes I have some unwanted holes and pits from removed grabirons,pipe,casting flaws in soft metal and plastic.What can I use to fill and smooth these holes. ?Alsn |
Re: Making and fitting window inserts for Mantua extruded aluminum passenger cars
Thanks Henry. I have the stuff.? Regards, Walter On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:39 PM Henry Hultgren via Groups.Io <huligin62=[email protected]> wrote: Walter ! Have you? used "Hodge Podge ? It's a Matte used by artists . It work very well in smaller windows . Micro Scale makes Kristal Clear , I used the other one . Try it? ?? Henry |
Re: Filling holes
I need to fill as small as#65 holes where grabs,piping etc. were removed.Can the putty plug such small holes.Is this the same as bondo used to fill in dents on cars or finer particle filler.I think I need almost a liquid.I was thinking acc but it would be harder than surrounding material and difficult to contour without damaging surrounding area and only work in very small holes.
Thanks Alan |
Re: Kitbashed PRR K4s
Doug,
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? ? ?Love the kit bash! Have you seen the book "Many Faces of the K4?" Pennsy did a dizzying amount of experimenting on their steamers and I think the K4 must have had the more tinkering done to it than any locomotive in history! Drivers often were unmatched...sometimes three different ones... there were the many different tenders, different streamlining mods, valve gear, headlights... all in addition to the progressively modernized standard equipment. Another thing about the K4 is that the Bowser/Penn Line model is of the last run of K4s built in the late 20s. Those locos had a shorter frame than the vast majority of them.. by about 18 inches. I think the Mantua frame is a little longer so it might actually be better for that reason. Anyway, great project!! Jeff jppellas@... -----Original Message-----
From: Doug Kisala via Groups.Io <dougkisala@...> To: yardbirdtrains <[email protected]> Sent: Thu, Sep 6, 2018 10:41 PM Subject: [YardbirdTrains] Kitbashed PRR K4s Hello list, You may ask why I would need to kitbash an HO scale PRR K4s 4-6-2 since there have been (amongst others) the Bowser, Bachmann, MTH, and Broadway Limited versions. ?As with many kitbashing questions, the answer is just a skosh complicated. ? I attached a couple of shots of what will become PRR K4s 5455. ? The first prototype photo shows the engine about 1947. ? The second shows the engine probably in the middle of WWII, but shows the main disc-type driver better.? A few years ago I purchased a Bowser "13,000 gallon" tender (really an early 130F82 that can stand in for a 130P75) and a Sunset/Samhongsa PRR K4s boiler from another modeling friend. Initially, I had no idea what I'd do with the pieces. ?Last year, I bought a used Mantua 4-6-2 that had (amongst other cosmetic flaws) a cracked cab. ?I had one remaining Alliance Mantua 4-6-2 reposer kit, so I fit it to the model. ? Once I saw photos of K4s 5455 with the main disc-type driver, I thought the Mantua chassis (albeit with all disc-type drivers) could work with the Samhongsa K4s boiler. ?If I can get a supply of more Mantua spoked Pacific drivers, I could get closer to the prototype, but that's not the end of the world for me. ? I test fit the Samhongsa boiler to the Mantua chassis, and after a bit of grinding on the firebox front sheets, the boiler fit nicely onto the chassis. ?I'm still building up a pad of .030 styrene attached to the boiler so that it will eventually sit level on the Mantua chassis. I just got the engine running with a very basic decoder installation. ?So now I have a Mantua 4-6-2 with a Korean boiler and a Bowser tender....very American. :) I like the modernized front end appearance (relocated headlight and generator, along with front platform and drop coupler pilot). ?I plan on finishing the model to represent the prototype's general configuration in 1947. Doug Kisala |
Re: Kitbashed PRR K4s
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDoug, If you can find the late production Mantua Pacific drivers, those used in the Model Power days. they were spoked. Model Power/Mantua is now a part of MRC. Go to I¡¯d suggest contacting customer service to see if they have parts available for the Mantua Pacific. John Hagen ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Doug Kisala via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2018 9:41 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [YardbirdTrains] Kitbashed PRR K4s ? Hello list, ? You may ask why I would need to kitbash an HO scale PRR K4s 4-6-2 since there have been (amongst others) the Bowser, Bachmann, MTH, and Broadway Limited versions. ?As with many kitbashing questions, the answer is just a skosh complicated. ? ? I attached a couple of shots of what will become PRR K4s 5455. ? ? The first prototype photo shows the engine about 1947. ? ? The second shows the engine probably in the middle of WWII, but shows the main disc-type driver better.? ? A few years ago I purchased a Bowser "13,000 gallon" tender (really an early 130F82 that can stand in for a 130P75) and a Sunset/Samhongsa PRR K4s boiler from another modeling friend. Initially, I had no idea what I'd do with the pieces. ?Last year, I bought a used Mantua 4-6-2 that had (amongst other cosmetic flaws) a cracked cab. ?I had one remaining Alliance Mantua 4-6-2 reposer kit, so I fit it to the model ? ? Once I saw photos of K4s 5455 with the main disc-type driver, I thought the Mantua chassis (albeit with all disc-type drivers) could work with the Samhongsa K4s boiler. ?If I can get a supply of more Mantua spoked Pacific drivers, I could get closer to the prototype, but that's not the end of the world for me. ? ? I test fit the Samhongsa boiler to the Mantua chassis, and after a bit of grinding on the firebox front sheets, the boiler fit nicely onto the chassis. ?I'm still building up a pad of .030 styrene attached to the boiler so that it will eventually sit level on the Mantua chassis. ? I just got the engine running with a very basic decoder installation. ?So now I have a Mantua 4-6-2 with a Korean boiler and a Bowser tender....very American. :) ? I like the modernized front end appearance (relocated headlight and generator, along with front platform and drop coupler pilot). ?I plan on finishing the model to represent the prototype's general configuration in 1947. ? Doug Kisala |
Re: Kitbashed PRR K4s
Doug, Well, doesn't every Pennsy modeler need "just one more K4s"? lol I think this is a very neat conversion and would love to see it when it's finished. Those aren't disk drivers. They are Box Pok.?I'm no expert but I don't recall Tyco/Mantua Pacifics having the spoked drivers you mentioned. Maybe Bowser K-11 drivers might work? I think you and I are in the minority liking the "modernized" front ends. Very interesting model! ? Roger Huber Deer Creek Locomotive Works From: Doug Kisala via Groups.Io <dougkisala@...> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, September 6, 2018 9:42 PM Subject: [YardbirdTrains] Kitbashed PRR K4s Hello list, You may ask why I would need to kitbash an HO scale PRR K4s 4-6-2 since there have been (amongst others) the Bowser, Bachmann, MTH, and Broadway Limited versions. ?As with many kitbashing questions, the answer is just a skosh complicated. ? I attached a couple of shots of what will become PRR K4s 5455. ? The first prototype photo shows the engine about 1947. ? The second shows the engine probably in the middle of WWII, but shows the main disc-type driver better.? A few years ago I purchased a Bowser "13,000 gallon" tender (really an early 130F82 that can stand in for a 130P75) and a Sunset/Samhongsa PRR K4s boiler from another modeling friend. Initially, I had no idea what I'd do with the pieces. ?Last year, I bought a used Mantua 4-6-2 that had (amongst other cosmetic flaws) a cracked cab. ?I had one remaining Alliance Mantua 4-6-2 reposer kit, so I fit it to the model. ? Once I saw photos of K4s 5455 with the main disc-type driver, I thought the Mantua chassis (albeit with all disc-type drivers) could work with the Samhongsa K4s boiler. ?If I can get a supply of more Mantua spoked Pacific drivers, I could get closer to the prototype, but that's not the end of the world for me. ? I test fit the Samhongsa boiler to the Mantua chassis, and after a bit of grinding on the firebox front sheets, the boiler fit nicely onto the chassis. ?I'm still building up a pad of .030 styrene attached to the boiler so that it will eventually sit level on the Mantua chassis. I just got the engine running with a very basic decoder installation. ?So now I have a Mantua 4-6-2 with a Korean boiler and a Bowser tender....very American. :) I like the modernized front end appearance (relocated headlight and generator, along with front platform and drop coupler pilot). ?I plan on finishing the model to represent the prototype's general configuration in 1947. Doug Kisala |
Kitbashed PRR K4s
Hello list, You may ask why I would need to kitbash an HO scale PRR K4s 4-6-2 since there have been (amongst others) the Bowser, Bachmann, MTH, and Broadway Limited versions. ?As with many kitbashing questions, the answer is just a skosh complicated. ? I attached a couple of shots of what will become PRR K4s 5455. ? The first prototype photo shows the engine about 1947. ? The second shows the engine probably in the middle of WWII, but shows the main disc-type driver better.? A few years ago I purchased a Bowser "13,000 gallon" tender (really an early 130F82 that can stand in for a 130P75) and a Sunset/Samhongsa PRR K4s boiler from another modeling friend. Initially, I had no idea what I'd do with the pieces. ?Last year, I bought a used Mantua 4-6-2 that had (amongst other cosmetic flaws) a cracked cab. ?I had one remaining Alliance Mantua 4-6-2 reposer kit, so I fit it to the model. ? Once I saw photos of K4s 5455 with the main disc-type driver, I thought the Mantua chassis (albeit with all disc-type drivers) could work with the Samhongsa K4s boiler. ?If I can get a supply of more Mantua spoked Pacific drivers, I could get closer to the prototype, but that's not the end of the world for me. ? I test fit the Samhongsa boiler to the Mantua chassis, and after a bit of grinding on the firebox front sheets, the boiler fit nicely onto the chassis. ?I'm still building up a pad of .030 styrene attached to the boiler so that it will eventually sit level on the Mantua chassis. I just got the engine running with a very basic decoder installation. ?So now I have a Mantua 4-6-2 with a Korean boiler and a Bowser tender....very American. :) I like the modernized front end appearance (relocated headlight and generator, along with front platform and drop coupler pilot). ?I plan on finishing the model to represent the prototype's general configuration in 1947. Doug Kisala |
Re: Filling holes
Automotive spot putty should work well. ?It is an air-dry product that dries quickly and sands easily. ?Buy a small tube, as it will eventually dry out and become unusable in the tube. ?I use it in woodworking, on vehicles and just about anything that will be painted. ? Bob Yarger From: "alankilby@..." <alankilby@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, September 6, 2018 1:43 PM Subject: [YardbirdTrains] Filling holes I have some unwanted holes and pits from removed grabirons,pipe,casting flaws in soft metal and plastic.What can I use to fill and smooth these holes. ?Alsn |