Re: Welcome to our newest members !
Dave, It’s been mentioned before here, and I have experienced it; for me one of the more mysterious difficulties with running the Mantuas, is a problem with the tender bolsters. Make sure you clean the bottom surface of the bolsters, and the corresponding top surface of the tender trucks. Denis
|
Re: tyco motorized tender
Hello Nelson, I knew there was a sub-group at the Tyco Forum that had a lot of fun with these Chattanoogas .? They are great to play around with. ? I had been a member of the forum, but, like every 2 years, it would tell me that my password, etc, were no good.? So I would set a new one.? The last time, the forum wouldn’t accept my changes at all, so I gave up. Denis
|
This brings to mind the recent post concerning Martha Raye. ? While she did special things managing her entertainment group for the GIs, she was not a nurse, was not a colonel, and was not in the National Guard. Her formal education ended in the fifth grade. Denis ?
|
Re: Mantua Classic Lindbergh Special 4-4-2
Dirty tender wheels and contact surfaces between the trucks and the tender body is where the electrical path is the weakest. Cleaning these areas will usually clear up the erratic running problem but only temporarily. Over time the poor running will return. For much improved reliable running, especially of you wish to convert to DCC you will need to make some improvements to the electrical pick-up system.
Starting with the tender, remove both trucks and drill out the rivet on only one side so that the wheels can be replaced with better metal wheels that are insulated on one side. I have used Bachmann wheels for this purpose that work very well. Then replace the rivet with a screw or nut and bolt. The hole can also be threaded so that a nut is not needed.
Next, solder a flexible wire to the rivet on the other side of the truck and connect it to the tender chassis with a screw after drilling and taping a hole for it. These steps will insure good electrical pick-up. Since the tender is only providing power from the left hand rail, it may be necessary to add wipers to the right hand wheels for all wheels pick-up which is what DCC usually requires. It will then be necessary to run a separate wire to the engine that carries the power from the right rail.
That brings up the engine which again is only picking up power from the right hand side. By adding wipers to the left hand driving wheels you will have power pick-up coming from
almost all wheels, thereby insuring the best possible power delivery to the motor for DC operation or to the decoder for DCC operation.
Richard in Vermont
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "cwvpost1" <pgkdave@...> wrote:
I just acquired a Limited Edition Mantua Classic 4-4-2 Atlantic that was still New In the Box. It is over 20 Years Old. When I tried to Run it on a test track, it ran erratic starting and stopping and shorting out.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what would be causing the problem and any suggestion on how to fix it?
Also is there anyway to upgrade this engine to DCC?
|
Re: Welcome to our newest members !
You might find HOseeker.org site very helpful . It has Mantua diagrams ! Should be what you want ? Henry
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "Dave Crum" <pgkdave@...> wrote:
Vic, Thanks for the advice!
I opened the boiler and disconnected the tender as you suggested and it
contains a can motor. Using alligator clips and a 3 foot piece of flex
track, I was able to get the motor running by connection to a set of the
tender wheels that I removed from the tender and connecting the power pack
to the test track. The motor and engine drivers run perfectly so I know now
it is the tender that is causing the problem. I am in the process now of
trying to clean the tender connections.
This leads me to another problem I came across with the tender. How do I
remove the tender shell? I removed both trucks and tried using a small
screwdriver to lift the shell but it won't budge. Is there some trick to
removing the shell from Mantua tender frames?
I don't want to break it.
Now that I know it has a can motor I would like to place a decoder in the
tender and upgrade it to DCC. Another option I have to purchase a Bachmann
DCC ready tender or since I just received a Broadway Limited PRR K4, I can
remove the short haul DCC ready tender from an old Bachmann K4 that was
replaced by the new Broadway use it instead. I would like to use the
mantua tender since it matches the engine, what do you think?
From: yardbirdtrains@... [mailto:yardbirdtrains@...]
On Behalf Of Victor Bitleris
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2013 12:13
To: yardbirdtrains@...
Subject: RE: [yardbirdtrains] Welcome to our newest members !
Hi there,
Running erratically, no surprise, shorting, unlikely (but, possible). I
suspect the electrical path through the wheels, trucks and framework has
oxidized and not conducting elecricity properly. Mantua locos (as well as
other cast locos) are very well known for this feechur. You will need to
check out and clean the electrical path throughout the whole loco. My best
guess is to start with the tender as usually that is where the problem is
the worst. In order to help diagnose this problem, remove the tender and
maybe even the boiler and using jumper wires, like the kind you can get at
Radio Shack, connect the motor directly to the rails, temporarily. I bet
you get a very smooth response. If not, then the motor itself needs help.
I don't know if this is a can motor or an open frame. If it is a can motor,
then I kind of doubt you would have a motor issue. If it is an open frame,
then some cleaning and tuning may be required. Usually it would be the
brushes that need cleaning.
As to DCC, almost every locomotive made for DC can be converted. If it is a
can motor loco, then it is even easier as almost all can motors are already
isolated from the case. If it is an open frame, some of them will require
insulating between the frame of the motor and the frame of the loco.
However, when converting to DCC, rule number ONE is to ensure the loco runs
very well on DC first.
Good luck and regards, Vic Bitleris
Vic Bitleris Raleigh, NC
_____
To: <mailto:yardbirdtrains@...> yardbirdtrains@...
From: <mailto:pgkdave@...> pgkdave@...
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 12:59:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [yardbirdtrains] Welcome to our newest members !
Henry, thanks.
I do have one question, I have a Mantua classic Lindbergh Special 4-4-2
that I purchased on EBay. It was new in the box and over 20 years old.
When I tried to run it, it ran erratic stoping and shorting. Can Yardbirds
repair it and convert it to DCC?
There is no contact page on the website to ask questions so please let me
know if you can do it. My phone number is 347-262-4706
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 21, 2013, at 12:24 PM, "Henry" < <mailto:long95209@...>
long95209@...> wrote:
Welcome to the group . Browse the photo albums , some good works in those .
Feel free to ask questions , again welcome . Henry H. moderator
|
Re: Welcome to our newest members !
Vic, Thanks for the advice!
I opened the boiler and disconnected the tender as you suggested and it
contains a can motor. Using alligator clips and a 3 foot piece of flex
track, I was able to get the motor running by connection to a set of the
tender wheels that I removed from the tender and connecting the power pack
to the test track. The motor and engine drivers run perfectly so I know now
it is the tender that is causing the problem. I am in the process now of
trying to clean the tender connections.
This leads me to another problem I came across with the tender. How do I
remove the tender shell? I removed both trucks and tried using a small
screwdriver to lift the shell but it won't budge. Is there some trick to
removing the shell from Mantua tender frames?
I don't want to break it.
Now that I know it has a can motor I would like to place a decoder in the
tender and upgrade it to DCC. Another option I have to purchase a Bachmann
DCC ready tender or since I just received a Broadway Limited PRR K4, I can
remove the short haul DCC ready tender from an old Bachmann K4 that was
replaced by the new Broadway use it instead. I would like to use the
mantua tender since it matches the engine, what do you think?
From: yardbirdtrains@... [mailto:yardbirdtrains@...]
On Behalf Of Victor Bitleris
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2013 12:13
To: yardbirdtrains@...
Subject: RE: [yardbirdtrains] Welcome to our newest members !
Hi there,
Running erratically, no surprise, shorting, unlikely (but, possible). I
suspect the electrical path through the wheels, trucks and framework has
oxidized and not conducting elecricity properly. Mantua locos (as well as
other cast locos) are very well known for this feechur. You will need to
check out and clean the electrical path throughout the whole loco. My best
guess is to start with the tender as usually that is where the problem is
the worst. In order to help diagnose this problem, remove the tender and
maybe even the boiler and using jumper wires, like the kind you can get at
Radio Shack, connect the motor directly to the rails, temporarily. I bet
you get a very smooth response. If not, then the motor itself needs help.
I don't know if this is a can motor or an open frame. If it is a can motor,
then I kind of doubt you would have a motor issue. If it is an open frame,
then some cleaning and tuning may be required. Usually it would be the
brushes that need cleaning.
As to DCC, almost every locomotive made for DC can be converted. If it is a
can motor loco, then it is even easier as almost all can motors are already
isolated from the case. If it is an open frame, some of them will require
insulating between the frame of the motor and the frame of the loco.
However, when converting to DCC, rule number ONE is to ensure the loco runs
very well on DC first.
Good luck and regards, Vic Bitleris
Vic Bitleris Raleigh, NC
_____
To: <mailto:yardbirdtrains@...> yardbirdtrains@...
From: <mailto:pgkdave@...> pgkdave@...
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 12:59:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [yardbirdtrains] Welcome to our newest members !
Henry, thanks.
I do have one question, I have a Mantua classic Lindbergh Special 4-4-2
that I purchased on EBay. It was new in the box and over 20 years old.
When I tried to run it, it ran erratic stoping and shorting. Can Yardbirds
repair it and convert it to DCC?
There is no contact page on the website to ask questions so please let me
know if you can do it. My phone number is 347-262-4706
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 21, 2013, at 12:24 PM, "Henry" < <mailto:long95209@...>
long95209@...> wrote:
Welcome to the group . Browse the photo albums , some good works in those .
Feel free to ask questions , again welcome . Henry H. moderator
|
|
|
Great electrical contact, ya want it!
I have long swore by and not at the electrical reliability of a model railroad locomotive since I discovered how Tuner Cleaner or similar Electronic contact conditioner fluids make base Zamak or other metals act like you have gold-plated contacts throughout the electrical path.
With a model that sort of sputters when it tries to run, cleaning the metal surfaces as basicly as using paper toweling with glass cleaner and the wiping the now bare metal electrical surfaces with the electronic fluid makes you think you put a high grade Kato locomotive in the rails.
Once you see this happen to a beast like the ancient Athearn 0-4-2t that you know has sat on the former owners shelf for 20 or more years. Where you see it can only turn the driver a quarter-turn.... And once you just loosen up screws wipe the ancient bare Zamak metals with the fluid and a wisp on the electrical mounting screw threads. A wisp of oil and grease on the mechanical bearing surfaces, snug down the screws and try it on the track again...
And it then runs like you have a new Kato instead of an over 30 years old Shelf Queen......
You too will believe in the stuff!!!
Mike Bauers
|
Re: tyco motorized tender
"A left-over smoke unit from one is going into the base of a small
line-side power house as animation."
I'm surprised you got any smoke out of that thing, Tom. I always got more smoke out of the motor.
The worst drive ever designed. Can you imagine the board meeting? "Hey Jim, you know those tiny, weak pancake motors in HO slot cars? What say we put them in all our locos with paper thin open gearing! What could go wrong?"
It was such a bad idea that Life-Like and Bachmann decided to copy them. ;)
Roco and other European companies still use tender drives in some of their steam, but they are rock solid. This mech was designed as a toy under the reign of Consolidated Foods in the 70's, and was only expected to survive 40 hours of normal use. The tender in your pictures is a later one with the plastic frame from the cheapened 0-8-0 version.
They're actually not too hard to get running if you know their quirks, but they're really just a nostalgic curiosity. Don't oil them and they scream. Oil them a little too much, and they bog down or smoke. When they do run the gear noise is something like a giant mosquito whining inside your head.
Some of us have put CD Rom motors in them for better performance, but that noise doesn't get any better.
It isn't too hard to put a motor in the loco by replacing the smoke cam with a Mantua axle gear. I've seen that done a few times.
Mehano ended up with the tooling and used it for the IHC 0-8-0 and 2-8-0, which are good lookers and excellent runners.
Nelson
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Tom Knowles <tomk@...> wrote:
The Chattanooga mechanisms are very free running as they would have to
be to be pushed by the terrible tender and also take a train anywhere.
They are useful for harvesting parts such as valve gear (some came with
no gear) or siderods. They often have broken valve gear hangars when
bought unseen, but the links are still useful.
I believe I show a remotor project of one...putting a can motor with
flywheel in the Chattanooga's chassis, just for fun, in the photos
section of Yardbirds. With the metal frame and free mech this actually
runs pretty darn good. One must also reduce the flange size for best
use, I do this holding the yet-to-be-powered mech against a belt sander
with a little skew t5o it to spin the drivers and take the flanges of a
little at a time. I then dress the flange profile after the unit is
powered. XCrude, but effective...I thought, "what the heck, these are
throw-aways, and I had been buying them up cheap for parts so why not
try a few off the wall things with 'em?".
As for the tenders, they look to be copies of the typical Tyco "long
haul" tender with slots in the sides to hold the afore mentioned
four-wheeled unit robbed from their Diesel line. I find them useful as
line-side junk, work train uses or cut up as rivet-detailed parts for
other weird tender projects.
The freight pilot and steps look pretty good on the front of Mikados.
The air pump isn't too badly detailed and comes right off with nippers.
One is on the kit bashed articulated NC&StL pusher engine that has a
plastic boiler so the thing glues right on...
A left-over smoke unit from one is going into the base of a small
line-side power house as animation.
Pretty good deal at ten bucks or less when you think about all the
possibilities!
Tom Knowles
|
Re: Welcome to our newest members !
Vic,
As always great advice. You've "cut to the chase".
Its always good to get back to basics.
Tom Knowles
On 3/23/2013 11:13 AM, Victor Bitleris wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
???
Hi there,
Running erratically, no surprise, shorting, unlikely (but,
possible).??? I suspect the electrical path through the
wheels, trucks and framework has oxidized and not
conducting elecricity properly.??? Mantua locos (as well as
other cast locos) are very well known for this feechur.???
You will need to check out and clean the electrical path
throughout the whole loco.??? My best guess is to start with
the tender as usually that is where the problem is the
worst.??? In order to help diagnose this problem, remove the
tender and maybe even the boiler and using jumper wires,
like the kind you can get at Radio Shack, connect the
motor directly to the rails, temporarily.??? I bet you get a
very smooth response.??? If not, then the motor itself needs
help.??? I don't know if this is a can motor or an open
frame.??? If it is a can motor, then I kind of doubt you
would have a motor issue.??? If it is an open frame, then
some cleaning and tuning may be required.??? Usually it
would be the brushes that need cleaning.
As to DCC, almost every locomotive made for DC can be
converted.??? If it is a can motor loco, then it is even
easier as almost all can motors are already isolated from
the case.??? If it is an open frame, some of them will
require insulating between the frame of the motor and the
frame of the loco.??? However, when converting to DCC, rule
number ONE is to ensure the loco runs very well on DC
first.
Good luck and regards, Vic Bitleris
Vic Bitleris
Raleigh, NC
To: yardbirdtrains@...
From: pgkdave@...
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 12:59:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [yardbirdtrains] Welcome to our newest
members !
???
Henry, thanks. ???
I do have one question, ???I have a Mantua
classic Lindbergh Special 4-4-2 that I purchased
on EBay. ???It was new in the box and over 20
years old. ???When I tried to run it, it ran
erratic stoping and shorting. ???Can Yardbirds
repair it and convert it to DCC?
There is no contact page on the website to
ask questions so please let me know if you can
do it. ???My phone number is 347-262-4706
???
Welcome to the group .
Browse the photo albums , some good works in
those . Feel free to ask questions , again
welcome . Henry H. moderator
|
Re: Welcome to our newest members !
Hi there, Running erratically, no surprise, shorting, unlikely (but, possible).? I suspect the electrical path through the wheels, trucks and framework has oxidized and not conducting elecricity properly.? Mantua locos (as well as other cast locos) are very well known for this feechur.? You will need to check out and clean the electrical path throughout the whole loco.? My best guess is to start with the tender as usually that is where the problem is the worst.? In order to help diagnose this problem, remove the tender and maybe even the boiler and using jumper wires, like the kind you can get at Radio Shack, connect the motor directly to the rails, temporarily.? I bet you get a very smooth response.? If not, then the motor itself needs help.? I don't know if this is a can motor or an open frame.? If it is a can motor, then I kind of doubt you would have a motor issue.? If it is an open frame, then some cleaning and tuning may be required.? Usually it would be the brushes that need cleaning. As to DCC, almost every locomotive made for DC can be converted.? If it is a can motor loco, then it is even easier as almost all can motors are already isolated from the case.? If it is an open frame, some of them will require insulating between the frame of the motor and the frame of the loco.? However, when converting to DCC, rule number ONE is to ensure the loco runs very well on DC first. Good luck and regards, Vic Bitleris Vic Bitleris
Raleigh, NC
To: yardbirdtrains@... From: pgkdave@... Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 12:59:38 -0400 Subject: Re: [yardbirdtrains] Welcome to our newest members !
?
Henry, thanks. ?
I do have one question, ?I have a Mantua classic Lindbergh Special 4-4-2 that I purchased on EBay. ?It was new in the box and over 20 years old. ?When I tried to run it, it ran erratic stoping and shorting. ?Can Yardbirds repair it and convert it to DCC?
There is no contact page on the website to ask questions so please let me know if you can do it. ?My phone number is 347-262-4706
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 21, 2013, at 12:24 PM, "Henry" < long95209@...> wrote:
?
Welcome to the group . Browse the photo albums , some good works in those . Feel free to ask questions , again welcome . Henry H. moderator
|
If you are interested Pacific Locomotive Association [the SP 2472 folks] have recently overhauled Clover Valley Lumber #4 . A 2-6-6-2 T Fans of Mantua's logger tank loco will love the pictures ? Look in today's and 24hrs. photos for it . Railpictures.net Henry
|
Willie and Joe ? Look back ?
My favorite one of that era , they were in a foxhole with a Tiger Tank raring up behind them . Willie is holding the walkie-talkie saying I have a confirmed target for you ! Loved those guys ! Henry
|
Re: Mantua Classic Lindbergh Special 4-4-2
Always a way to upgrade to DCC . BTW ,Dan doesn't work on DCC . Lots of members in this group run and work on DCC . Check the past emails . FYI this site and YB Classic Trains are two different entities with one owner ? Henry
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "cwvpost1" <pgkdave@...> wrote:
I just acquired a Limited Edition Mantua Classic 4-4-2 Atlantic that was still New In the Box. It is over 20 Years Old. When I tried to Run it on a test track, it ran erratic starting and stopping and shorting out.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what would be causing the problem and any suggestion on how to fix it?
Also is there anyway to upgrade this engine to DCC?
|
I KNOW THIS IS WAY OFF TOPIC, BUT THOUGHT?ALL OF US OLDIES MIGHT ENJOY THIS WHO KNEW ABOUT WILLIE AND JOE IN WWII
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: "Devil761@..." To: gomertrains@... Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 6:18 PM Subject: (no subject)
For those who had family in WW11, Korea, Viet Nam, etc.
Willie, Joe, and Bill in WWII
Get out your history books and open them to the chapter on World War II. Today's lesson will cover a little known but very important hero of whom very little was ever really known. Here is another important piece of lost U.S. history.
Makes ya proud to put this stamp on your
envelopes...
Bill Mauldin stamp honors grunt's hero. The post office gets a lot of criticism. Always has, always will. And with the renewed push to get rid of Saturday mail delivery, expect complaints to intensify.
But the United States Postal Service deserves a standing ovation for something that happened last month: Bill Mauldin got his own postage stamp.
Mauldin died at age 81 in the early days of 2003. The end of his life had been rugged. He had been scalded in
a bathtub, which led to terrible injuries and infections; Alzheimer's disease was inflicting its cruelties. Unable to care for himself after the scalding, he became a resident of a California nursing home, his health and spirits in rapid decline
He was not forgotten, though. Mauldin, and his work, meant so much to the millions of Americans who fought in World War II, and to those who had waited for them to come home. He was a kid cartoonist for Stars and Stripes, the military newspaper; Mauldin's drawings of his muddy, exhausted,
whisker-stubble infantrymen Willie and Joe were the voice of truth about what it was like on the front lines.
Mauldin was an enlisted man just like the soldiers he drew for; his gripes were their gripes, his laughs their laughs, his heartaches their heartaches. He was one of them. They loved him.
He never held back. Sometimes, when his cartoons cut too close for comfort, superior officers tried to tone him down. In one memorable incident, he enraged Gen. George S. Patton, who informed Mauldin he wanted the pointed cartoons celebrating the fighting men, lampooning the high-ranking officers to stop. Now!
"I'm beginning to feel like a fugitive from the' law of averages."
The news passed from soldier to soldier. How was Sgt. Bill Mauldin going to stand up to Gen. Patton? It seemed impossible.
Not quite. Mauldin, it turned out, had an ardent fan: Five-star Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower, supreme commander of the Allied forces in Europe .. Ike put out the word: Mauldin draws what Mauldin wants. Mauldin won. Patton lost.
If, in your line of work, you've ever considered yourself a young hotshot, or if you've ever known anyone who has felt that way about him or herself, the story of Mauldin's young manhood will humble you. Here is what, by the time he was 23 years old, Mauldin accomplished:+
"By the way, wot wuz them changes you wuz
Gonna make when you took over last month, sir?"
He won the Pulitzer Prize, was featured on the cover of Time magazine. His book "Up Front" was the No. 1 best-seller in the United States .
All of that at 23. Yet, when he returned to civilian life and grew older, he never lost that boyish Mauldin grin, never outgrew his excitement about doing his job, never big-shotted or high-hatted the people with whom he worked every day.
I was lucky enough to be one of them. Mauldin roamed the hallways of the Chicago Sun-Times in the late 1960s and early 1970s with no more officiousness or air of haughtiness than if he was a copyboy. That impish look on his face remained
He had achieved so much. He won a second Pulitzer Prize, and he should have won a third for what may be the
single greatest editorial cartoon in the history of the craft: his deadline rendering, on the day President John F. Kennedy was assassinated, of the statue at the Lincoln Memorial slumped in grief, its head cradled in its hands. But he never acted as if he was better than the people he met. He was still Mauldin, the enlisted man.
During the late summer of 2002, as Mauldin lay in that California nursing home, some of the old World War II infantry guys caught wind of it. They didn't want Mauldin to go out that way. They thought he should know he was still their hero.
"This is the' town my pappy told me about."
Gordon Dillow, a columnist for the Orange County Register, put out the call in Southern California for people in the area to send their best wishes to Mauldin. I joined Dillow in the effort, helping to spread the appeal nationally, so Bill would not feel so alone. Soon, more than 10,000 cards and letters had arrived at Mauldin's bedside.
Better than that, old soldiers began to show up just to sit with Mauldin, to let him know that they were there for him, as he, so long ago, had been there for them. So many
volunteered to visit Bill that there was a waiting list. Here is how Todd DePastino, in the first paragraph of his wonderful biography of Mauldin, described it:
"Almost every day in the summer and fall of 2002 they came to Park Superior nursing home in Newport Beach , California , to honor Army Sergeant, Technician Third Grade, Bill Mauldin. They came bearing relics of their youth: medals, insignia, photographs, and carefully folded newspaper clippings. Some wore old garrison caps. Others arrived resplendent in uniforms over a half century old. Almost all of them wept as they filed down the corridor like pilgrims fulfilling some long-neglected obligation."
One of the veterans explained to me why it was so important: "You would have to be part of a combat infantry unit to appreciate what moments of relief Bill gave us. You had to be reading a soaking wet Stars and Stripes in a water-filled foxhole and then see one of his cartoons."
"Th' hell this ain't th' most important hole in the world. I'm in it."
Mauldin is buried in Arlington National Cemetery .
Last month, the kid cartoonist made it onto a first-class postage stamp. It's an honor that most generals and admirals never receive.
What Mauldin would have loved most, I believe, is the sight of the two guys who keep him company on that stamp.
Take a look at it.
There's Willie. There's Joe. And there, to the side, drawing them and smiling that shy, quietly observant smile, is Mauldin himself. With his buddies, right where he belongs. Forever.
What a story, and a fitting tribute to a man and to a time that few of us can still remember. But I say to you youngsters, you must most seriously learn of and remember with respect the sufferings and sacrifices of your fathers, grand fathers and
great grandfathers in times you cannot ever imagine today with all you have. But the only reason you are free to have it all is because of them.
I thought you would all enjoy reading and seeing this bit of American history!
| |
|
Re: tyco motorized tender
Thanks, yes I understand. My reply was
intended as a generality.
Tom Knowles
On 3/22/2013 4:46 PM, trainsnwrcs wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Except, Tom, all he has is the tender. Free rollin,
maybe...until the gears, shafts and pins wear, then it's
continual futzing.
The tender isn't worth saving. You'd have to fill the
slots, make a frame, buy new (complete) trucks and then
find a locomotive that needs it.
Dave
--- In yardbirdtrains@...,
Tom Knowles wrote:
>
> The Chattanooga mechanisms are very free running as
they would have to
> be to be pushed by the terrible tender and also take
a train anywhere.
> They are useful for harvesting parts....
|
Re: tyco motorized tender
Except, Tom, all he has is the tender. Free rollin, maybe...until the gears, shafts and pins wear, then it's continual futzing.
The tender isn't worth saving. You'd have to fill the slots, make a frame, buy new (complete) trucks and then find a locomotive that needs it.
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Tom Knowles <tomk@...> wrote:
The Chattanooga mechanisms are very free running as they would have to
be to be pushed by the terrible tender and also take a train anywhere.
They are useful for harvesting parts such as valve gear (some came with
no gear) or siderods. They often have broken valve gear hangars when
bought unseen, but the links are still useful.
I believe I show a remotor project of one...putting a can motor with
flywheel in the Chattanooga's chassis, just for fun, in the photos
section of Yardbirds. With the metal frame and free mech this actually
runs pretty darn good. One must also reduce the flange size for best
use, I do this holding the yet-to-be-powered mech against a belt sander
with a little skew t5o it to spin the drivers and take the flanges of a
little at a time. I then dress the flange profile after the unit is
powered. XCrude, but effective...I thought, "what the heck, these are
throw-aways, and I had been buying them up cheap for parts so why not
try a few off the wall things with 'em?".
As for the tenders, they look to be copies of the typical Tyco "long
haul" tender with slots in the sides to hold the afore mentioned
four-wheeled unit robbed from their Diesel line. I find them useful as
line-side junk, work train uses or cut up as rivet-detailed parts for
other weird tender projects.
The freight pilot and steps look pretty good on the front of Mikados.
The air pump isn't too badly detailed and comes right off with nippers.
One is on the kit bashed articulated NC&StL pusher engine that has a
plastic boiler so the thing glues right on...
A left-over smoke unit from one is going into the base of a small
line-side power house as animation.
Pretty good deal at ten bucks or less when you think about all the
possibilities!
Tom Knowles
On 3/22/2013 2:31 PM, kbkchooch wrote:
Best to relegate that turkey to the boneyard. They run bad on a good
day. If you had the engine, you could always pair it up with a regular
tender to , in effect, make a dummy put of it.
I've been known at shows to have a coal drag with 2 consolidations on
the front, and a mid-train or a rear end "helper, which is really a
dummy. One in Western Maryland and 1 in B&O.B-) Pics are in my photo
album, Karl's Kustoms.
Cheers,
Karl Bond
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs"
<idioticyahoo@> wrote:
No battery. Track power. The locomotive wheels picked up power from
the other rail, there was a wire between the engine and tender.
The loco was a 2-8-0, later due to inability to keep the lead truck consistently on the rails, a 0-8-0.
Look for a 2-8-0 or 0-8-0 in the pile....no motor and more inportantly, no gear on any axle.
That will be the one.
Look on HO Seeker for drawings/instructions.
Dave
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Alan Kilby albyrno@ wrote:
Dave,
Thanks for the info. it looks rather toylike except theres
nowhere to put a battery.There are several locos with burnt out or no
motors in lot,one an o-6-o which would likely work but would look
funny pulling a long haul tender, not as funny as 1 of the many 0-4-0
saddle tankers in lot though,might be a good candidate to give to my
son,says he doesn't like trains but he sure likes to run them,there is
also a gallon freezer bag full of kemtron,cal-scale cary,detail
associates,psc and who knows what other detail parts in packages I
haven't looked at yet,also got the balboa 4-4-0 and I started
assembling it last night other than drawbar spring and insulating
washer,bell,piping to whistle it looks like everythings there being
loose parts in a box I am surprised.Bottom cover plate was warped and
driver axles were binding which I corrected by drawfiling cover.
Alan
|
Re: tyco motorized tender
The Chattanooga mechanisms are very
free running as they would have to be to be pushed by the terrible
tender and also take a train anywhere. They are useful for
harvesting parts such as valve gear (some came with no gear) or
siderods. They often have broken valve gear hangars when bought?
unseen, but the links are still useful.
I believe I show a remotor project of one...putting a can motor
with flywheel in the Chattanooga's chassis, just for fun, in the
photos section of Yardbirds. With the metal frame and free mech
this actually runs pretty darn good. One must also reduce the
flange size for best use, I do this holding the yet-to-be-powered
mech against a belt sander with a little skew t5o it to spin the
drivers and take the flanges of a little at a time. I then dress
the flange profile after the unit is powered. XCrude, but
effective...I thought, "what the heck, these are throw-aways, and
I had been buying them up cheap for parts so why not try a few off
the wall things with 'em?".
As for the tenders, they look to be copies of the typical Tyco
"long haul" tender with slots in the sides to hold the afore
mentioned four-wheeled unit robbed from their Diesel line. I find
them useful as line-side junk, work train uses or cut up as
rivet-detailed parts for other weird tender projects.
The freight pilot and steps look pretty good on the front of
Mikados. The air pump isn't too badly detailed and comes right off
with nippers. One is on the kit bashed articulated NC&StL
pusher engine that has a plastic boiler so the thing glues right
on...
A left-over smoke unit from one is going into the base of a small
line-side power house as animation.
?Pretty good deal at ten bucks or less when you think about all
the possibilities!
Tom Knowles
On 3/22/2013 2:31 PM, kbkchooch wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
?Best to relegate that turkey to the boneyard. ?They run
bad on a good day. If you had the engine, you could always
pair it up with a regular tender to , in effect, make a
dummy put of it.
I've been known at shows to have a coal drag with 2
consolidations on the front, and a mid-train or a rear end
"helper, which is really a dummy. One in Western Maryland
and 1 in ?B&O.  ?Pics are in my photo
album, Karl's Kustoms. Cheers,
Karl Bond
?
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs"
wrote:
>
> No battery. Track power. The locomotive wheels picked
up power from the other rail, there was a wire between the
engine and tender.
> The loco was a 2-8-0, later due to inability to keep
the lead truck consistently on the rails, a 0-8-0.
> Look for a 2-8-0 or 0-8-0 in the pile....no motor and
more inportantly, no gear on any axle.
> That will be the one.
> Look on HO Seeker for drawings/instructions.
> Dave
>
> --- In yardbirdtrains@..., Alan Kilby
albyrno@ wrote:
> >
> > Dave,
> > ?Thanks for the info. it looks rather toylike
except theres nowhere to put a battery.There are several
locos with burnt out or no motors in lot,one an o-6-o
?which would likely work but would look funny pulling a
long haul tender, not as funny as 1 of the many 0-4-0
saddle tankers in lot though,might be a good candidate to
give to my son,says he doesn't like trains but he sure
likes to run them,there is also a gallon freezer bag full
of kemtron,cal-scale cary,detail associates,psc and who
knows what other detail parts in packages I haven't looked
at yet,also got the balboa 4-4-0 and I started assembling
it ?last night other than drawbar spring and insulating
washer,bell,piping to whistle it looks like everythings
there being loose parts in a box I am surprised.Bottom
cover plate was warped and driver axles were binding which
I corrected by drawfiling cover.
> > ? Alan
> >
>
|
Re: tyco motorized tender
?Best to relegate that turkey to the boneyard. ?They run bad on a good day. If you had the engine, you could always pair it up with a regular tender to , in effect, make a dummy put of it. I've been known at shows to have a coal drag with 2 consolidations on the front, and a mid-train or a rear end "helper, which is really a dummy. One in Western Maryland and 1 in ?B&O. ?Pics are in my photo album, Karl's Kustoms. Cheers, Karl Bond ?
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs" wrote:
>
> No battery. Track power. The locomotive wheels picked up power from the other rail, there was a wire between the engine and tender.
> The loco was a 2-8-0, later due to inability to keep the lead truck consistently on the rails, a 0-8-0.
> Look for a 2-8-0 or 0-8-0 in the pile....no motor and more inportantly, no gear on any axle.
> That will be the one.
> Look on HO Seeker for drawings/instructions.
> Dave
>
> --- In yardbirdtrains@..., Alan Kilby albyrno@ wrote:
> >
> > Dave,
> > ?Thanks for the info. it looks rather toylike except theres nowhere to put a battery.There are several locos with burnt out or no motors in lot,one an o-6-o ?which would likely work but would look funny pulling a long haul tender, not as funny as 1 of the many 0-4-0 saddle tankers in lot though,might be a good candidate to give to my son,says he doesn't like trains but he sure likes to run them,there is also a gallon freezer bag full of kemtron,cal-scale cary,detail associates,psc and who knows what other detail parts in packages I haven't looked at yet,also got the balboa 4-4-0 and I started assembling it ?last night other than drawbar spring and insulating washer,bell,piping to whistle it looks like everythings there being loose parts in a box I am surprised.Bottom cover plate was warped and driver axles were binding which I corrected by drawfiling cover.
> > ? Alan
> >
>
|
Re: tyco motorized tender
No battery. Track power. The locomotive wheels picked up power from the other rail, there was a wire between the engine and tender.
The loco was a 2-8-0, later due to inability to keep the lead truck consistently on the rails, a 0-8-0.
Look for a 2-8-0 or 0-8-0 in the pile....no motor and more inportantly, no gear on any axle.
That will be the one.
Look on HO Seeker for drawings/instructions.
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Alan Kilby <albyrno@...> wrote:
Dave,
?Thanks for the info. it looks rather toylike except theres nowhere to put a battery.There are several locos with burnt out or no motors in lot,one an o-6-o ?which would likely work but would look funny pulling a long haul tender, not as funny as 1 of the many 0-4-0 saddle tankers in lot though,might be a good candidate to give to my son,says he doesn't like trains but he sure likes to run them,there is also a gallon freezer bag full of kemtron,cal-scale cary,detail associates,psc and who knows what other detail parts in packages I haven't looked at yet,also got the balboa 4-4-0 and I started assembling it ?last night other than drawbar spring and insulating washer,bell,piping to whistle it looks like everythings there being loose parts in a box I am surprised.Bottom cover plate was warped and driver axles were binding which I corrected by drawfiling cover.
? Alan
|
