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Eventually this 'collection on screw informations' may be helpful to decide what kind of screw(s) one can take as a replacement... I've gathered this 'informations' some years ago...

The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. * /Screw-Types.pdf ( /g/YamahaDX/files/Screw-Types.pdf ) *By:* Michael Whocares

I intend to drive the 13mm into a piece of plastic >8mm thick and grind off the excess ~5mm, unscrewing to hopefully clean up the threads. Either way I have lots to experiment with. Could paint the

As I said before, the shorter screw (on the back panel near the power) is 4 x 8mm. A 13mm screw will be too long here. Also note, that the length of a screw is usually measured at the length of the

Good job! I'm sure you could sell them on eBay. If selling small quantities is an issue, sell a large lot and someone will probably come along that will resell those. Between all the DX# varieties out

Well if anyone is interested in a set of Four (4) 16mm and one (1) 13mm M4.2 Pan Phillips Tapping Steel, Zinc Plated DIN 7981-C Let me know, had to buy a decent quantity for it to be cost effective. I

It's a matter of degrees, I suppose.? There are differences in the shape of Philips, JIS, etc. holes that affect the max. torque and the reliability when one is using power drivers and/or hundreds of

You're probably right. I just remember the jet engine mechanics on the shop floor making a big deal about it and how they had separate drivers. Maybe they were having fun with the Engineer - "no THAT

Fillister is a head shape, not a drive type.

Thanks for the details Ant! Based on your measurements, I think I need an M4.2 screw size. Its diameter is 4.2mm and its thread pitch is 1.4mm. McMaster-Carr has some:

I believe that they are Philips head and certainly metric thread,? being from Japan. Possibly 6mm.

They might be. At first glance, they looked like Fillister head. But I’ve always had trouble distinguishing the two without actual drivers to test it with. L. Correction - I think they are actually

More accurate measuring reveals the thread pitch may be 1.4mm. A hint for inserting self-tapping screws into old plastic is to first rest the screw in the hole then back the screw out slowly until you

According to the DX7 service manual the front panel screws are Bind(sic) Head Tapping Screw 4 x 16. The rear panel screw is Bind Head Tapping Screw 4 x 8. I have also removed them from my DX7 and

Depending on WHERE on the panel. There’s four that you take out, two at each end, to raise the panel on its hinge. Those screws are, in fact, ‘self-tapping’ or a variation thereof, simply

Op di 18 jan. 2022 om 13:23 schreef Bruce Wahler via groups.io <bw@...>: My experience with taking apart 1980's synthesizers has been that manufacturers use both self-tapping and

No, it doesn’t especially help. You missed a LOT of points and got most of it wrong. But, hey, whenever metric comes up anywhere, this type of ‘expert’ starts evangelizing. L. Sent: Tuesday,

A couple of things to try... first the Yamaha service notes often call out the individual hardware pieces by name/description. Also, there are so many parted out DX7's that the screws show up very

Ethan et al, Those screw checkers are for *tapped* holes.? That DIN standard is for a *self-tapping* screw.? The first thing is to figure out which type was used.? Here is a tapped style for

One more thing to be aware of. A lot of products coming out of Japan used the JIS screw head, which is not Pozidrive, nor is it Philips. Of course this doesn't matter if you're putting in new screws