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Hi Peter, It's amazing how long it has taken these dry joints to cause trouble. I guess it is all part of the "bath tub curve" theory that we were taught about reliability and the probability of

I can't beat that one Gordon, but I did have a dry joint on one of the circuit boards in my early FT-101 that only became apparent after ~35 years! 73 Peter

Now That! I Do have.. forgot about it...? ?Thanks for the tip!

Also an SDR receiver / dongle would work great. Can be bought for little money

Awesome advice. I do have a Multimeter and a Dummy load to connect the output.? ? ? ? ?Wondering about the AM RAdio usage, as I have of course a Car AM , but I would presume I need an in

Hello, You wrote that AM TX is improved with ALC on? There is no ALC feedback on AM. Have you set the bias current correctly? (60mA) What is the AM carrier plate current when you tune up the rig for

I used both methods (hot and cold) and prefer the 'cold' method. If you don't have a scope or just a simple AM radio to monitor RF output then a Germanium diode terminated with a resistor would do the

Jose, I prefer the " cold neutralization " method by removing the ACC plug in the back to remove the heaters from the finals. Do you have a multimeter and a RF probe? If you don't have a probe, do

Good day FT101ers...? I have a FT-101EE that is due for Final replacements as I only can get 40W out of the rig right now and I got myself a pair of 6JS6C Tubes that were tested in a tube checker to

Hello All Thanks for the clarification!…Yes of course it is ‘71 not ‘91….I missed that too? 73 Steve

Todd, You are correct. A typo on my part. I was thinking 71 but for some reason hit 91. I have a E model built in 1975. Sorry for the confusion. 73 Don ve3ids [email protected]> wrote:

They didn't build 101's in 1991. The early 101's were built in the early 70's. Your rig was built in 1971. I have a "B" model built in 1974.

Hi Don My apologies I just recognized the link that you sent…exactly what I was looking for!??? Thank you !!! Steve

Hi Steve, That is the way I read it. That jives with when the FT 101 was produced. Have fun with it. They are a nice old classic. 73 Don ve3ids <stevewiddett@...> wrote:

Hi Don Thanks for your response.! So is this how to interpret: 1=91 M11=November 7016 is the serial number Correct? Thanks Steve

Steve, I would say that your FT 101 was built in November of 1991. https://ve3ips.wordpress.com/2015/10/08/yaesu-serial-number-and-date-of-manufacturing-decoder/ 73 Don

Just reach in behind the viewing glass and rotate the white 500KHz disk to where you want it. It is not really tightly mounted to the shaft.

Mine is the same way. The dial needle is actually on the other side (zero end) KHz mark slightly. The dial (back) behind the line doesn't track perfectly I've found from one extreme to the other in

Hello All I am trying to understand the serial number on my FT101: 1M117016 I have been able to establish from the PCB number reference list that this is an early 25,000 or under model. Does the

Having some minor issue with the Main Tunning Dial. When calibration for the 100s (x.400) frequency in this case, Im almost 15-20 off from the visual mark. Anyway to correct this easily ?? Thx