One more… this one for $4.99 is cleaner and even closer! It’s called “Bebas Neue Semi Rounded”.
Link:
https://www.myfonts.com/products/regular-bebas-neue-semi-rounded-204747
73, Randy K7RAN

shot:

Addendum… screen shot for “Redgar Clean” by Graphite (link in previous post):

Hi gbrandy and Randy, thanks for your reply. I'll give a try.
73 de PA8MA
Marcel

The font “Redgar Clean” by Graphite is a $12 font that comes pretty close! Note the serif on the number “1” as well as the curves on the 3, and 5, and the straight vertical sides of the zero. Link:
https://www.myfonts.com/products/clean-redgar-162082
73, Randy K7RAN

开云体育

Hi Chris, yes that is my goal. But it is more effort then expected. The Arduino run out of memory and the speed is too low. So I have switch to an ESP32. And a redesign of the pcb.

Hi Marcel,
Does this version have the Mhzas well as the Khz readout?

Hello,

I'm working on a new version of the digital readout. Does anyone know which font has been used for the dial in the FRG-7?

Regards,
Marcel
de PA8MA

The mind boggles at some of the "mods" you find, most are just a bastardisation. This one appears to route DC through another fuse to the RCA connector at the back. The rest appears to be a tapping via the coax cable to something on the PCB. There are no active components on the added PCB so I am guessing its an output for an external frequency counter.

There's a small board located on the underside of the RF board. I assume it's some type of mod.










There are 2 RCA jacks added on the back skirt of the receiver. Labeled VFO and PWR
Wonder if anyone is familiar with this mod...external VFO??

Well again thanks much for your help..
As an industrial electrician for years I understand exactly your previous comment.
I guess it would be bad juju to say i hope it fails again but... maybe not..

Again thanks,

Brian

In the repair industry, these "events" happen with no explanation, and are the worst thing. Do we give the radio back to the customer knowing full well it is not really repaired, but could fail again at any moment. On the other hand, how can we now repair it properly when it is working fine with no fault to hunt down. A conundrum.
I suggest thanking your lucky stars and enjoy the radio.

Well here's a crazy turn of events.... I removed the cover on the HG unit. poked around a bit. Then removed the enclosure, looked things over and was about to to check the transistor as you suggested.
I powered the rig up and low and behold it's receiving!!! The lock light is going on and off like it should as I tune the MHZ control.
So I guess my question is: Is there a possibility that the crystal was "stuck" as the radio has been sitting for probably a few decades???
I think I'll still replace the crystal but wow... did not expect that... unless something else is lurking !!!
?

The waveform you see at TP019 is the straight through leakage of the first VFO, this is normal, but not seeing anything as you tune up in frequency on the megacycle knob strongly suggests your HG is not working.
Because the lock light does come? on , and off , that suggests the selective amplifier is working fine.
The other TP monitors the second VFO, thats the kilocycle tuning, and given your measurements, is working fine. That section is seperate from the section you are dealing with, so at this stage can be ignored.
At this point, I would put my money on the? HG crystal, these can be found cheaply online.
Otherwise, measure the HG transistor voltages. These vary a little, but there should be around 9 volts on the collector, around 1 volt on the Base, and a few millivolts on the emitter for the transistor to oscillate. If these voltages are in the ballpark, the next step is to replace that crystal.
Replacing that crystal should see the old thing running again. Thats when you can realign the second VFO to conform to the drum markings.

I believe I have the main dial set properly now.
Putting the scope on TP019 I get no waveform unless I move the MHZ dial down to the zero mark (where the led goes out) then I get the waveform below. It does not change when moving the second VFO.?

But when I put the scope on TP401 I do get a waveform that changes in frequency from 3.35 mhz to 2.42 mhz when I tune the second vfo from 0 to 1000. ? ? I hope all this is making some sense and helping!!!




Also checked to make sure that VR102 is not full on. It's at it's aprox. mid point.

I believe the HG is dead. I did as you suggested with a SW SDR and I do not detect any signal at all tuning up and down, and putting the scope on TP106? the output from the HG shows nothing. It is getting the 9V supply
Is there a process to check the crystal?

I really appreciate your help with this..

The HG should provide a very strong fundamental tone at 1 mHz,? especially when the box is removed from the chassis and powered. . Its not uncommon for the crystal to fail. The HG output is at a very low level, a spectrum analyser? is handy here. But, any SW radio placed near will find the harmonics from 1 to 35 megs as you tune up and down the spectrum... use SSB if you have it. thats where those small Chinese radios are handy for this. There is little to check in there really. The two diodes clip the oscillator output giving the distortion to create the harmonics, I guess these could fail, but doubtful.

Your other questions.....
The slight? resistance you feel at the tuning edges is normal, and is to do with the mechanism limiting the end stops.
By loosening the tuning drum center nut,? it can be easily adjusted to agree with the kilocycle markings if the basic arrangement is ok.?

I don't think the HG unit is running. Putting the scope on TP106 I get nothing. It's getting the 9 volts.
I haven't as yet? popped the lid off the HG enclosure.

Yes, you need to fix those? mechanical issues first. It seems someone has really fiddled with this one
The kilocycle tuning capacitor needs careful setting up. With the vanes fully closed, the tuning shaft should be against the stop, and the tuning? indicator? should be aligned with the small triangle mark on the right hand side of the tuning drum.. The tuning cap is not used over its full travel, this is done to give a more linear readout on the scale.? It is normal for the tuning cap to not fully open, so perhaps this has not been changed.? This is a pain to get right, and you will need some very small allen keys to loosen the grubscrews if repairs are needed..
For completeness, the second VFO ,or kilocycle oscillator should be checked, it will run from 2.455 megs to 3.455 to give the 1 meg tuning increments.... and remember it actually tunes backwards.
Connecting your scope to TP109 should reveal a rising and falling waveform amplitude as the Megacycle knob is varied, but the scope will need to be a good one, this section is at 50 odd megs.
If you dont see any waveform here , the fault is either the amplifier chain or the harmonic generator. Sometimes the mixer chip will take a hit, but seldom.
Also check VR102 hasnt been wound fully on. This preset alters the bias on the LED lock lamp, It should go off at one extreme. This section rectifies part of the selective amplifier output signal to indicate correct tuning.

Screen grab of output from osc board. Freq varies smooth from 83 mhz @ 29 mhz down to 54 @ at 0 mhz
taken at TP 101 /102 gnd.