开云体育

Hi Guys, I flew my plane today! All was well except that I'm getting high EGTs. I'm running a 68" GSC wood prop with 16 degrees of pitch and a Hirth 2706. Both plugs are brown and not wet. The needle is a 15K2 and the main jets are 160s. I'm getting 1300 degrees on the EGTs at 6100 RPM and it settles to about 1200 at cruise (4200 RPM) and 400 on the CHTs either way (I did see the back cylinder go to 500 once). We've tried 170 main jets hoping to run it richer to get the EGTs down but it made no difference on a second circuit. Judging by the plugs we are running just fine. The engine seems to running very well with no indication of wanting to quit (I know go ahead and laugh, I know Murphy's Law very well thank you!) I'm using the Mikuni pump and I also have an electric pump but have not found that it makes a difference. We are wondering at this point if the location of the EGT probes is causing a high reading. I welded the bosses about 80 MM from the head gasket (verified with pictures taken of other Hirths at Sun N Fun). My assistant tells me that the further away from the engine the probes are the higher the reading because the fuel is still burning on exhaust. I've looked at a 503 and 582 and the probes are much closer (more like 30 mm) to the head. We are thinking about hooking up an EIS with their probes to see if they are reading properly. I'm using Westach gauges and probes. Anyone have any suggestions otherwise? -- Trevor Page X-Air Ontario Dealer tpage@... http://www.xair-ontario.com ____________________________ Free Email/SMTP/POP, http://www.bn3.com, Hosting yourname@...

Come see my website at www.xair.addr.com Bill Magrini Sky Rider, Inc. Centreville, Virginia 703-266-9245

There is a Mig 29 for sale on ebay..... current bid is US $1000.00 ?? Check it out !! Beats my X-Air, i may not be able to afford the fuel though http://cgi.ebay.com.au/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=372520682 Thanks Michael

All the best with your new site and happy flying cheers Tony Stiller 10 Caryota Street Nambour Q 4560 Tel: +61 7 54417051 Fax: +61 7 54763335 Mobile: 0427 766827 www.ozemail.com.au/~santhony

Thanks Richard, I know I have the probe bosses in the right place as I've measured them from factory units along with photographs as proof. I've just been informed the engine will run hot for the first 25 hours or so because of the Nicasil coating. 1300 degrees is not to be passed but 1200 is normal at first. I'm still going to hook up an E.I.S. to see if they read the EGTs any different. -- Trevor Page X-Air Ontario Dealer tpage@... http://www.xair-ontario.com ____________________________ Free Email/SMTP/POP, http://www.bn3.com, Hosting yourname@...

I just noticed my website doesn't load because of an inadvertent space after the.com. Here it is again. If it doesn't work, just type it in. www.xair.addr.com Happy flying! Bill Sky Rider, Inc.

Gday again.... just a quick note: when adding links etc put in the full address, like http://www.xair.addr.com This will make the address a link by adding the http:// and you can go directly to it by mouse click, the other way you need to type it all in and any mistakes will stop your customer / enquiry from finding it. One other thing.... when replying to a message delete all the advertising from the bottom, otherwise we end up with messages with four or five adds on the bottom, this not only takes up space but it also takes longer to download our messages. Hope this helps Thanks Michael magriniw@... wrote:

Hello Trevor As a general rule of thum, the position of your EGT probes needs to be 100mm from the piston skirt. Establish the distance using a vernier from the piston skirt to the end of your exhaust port and then add the difference along your exhaust manifold to make up the 100mm not forgetting to include the thickness of your gaskets. I don't know the Hirth motor although it's success here in South Africa was short lived. I would like to suggest that you contact the manufacturers of the "Hornet" fixed wing (the one that resembles a Challenger) as this company has used the Hirth engine as standard fare for many years and would seem happy with the product. Best of luck Richard Stubbs.

Setting up the Ailerons is a very important part of trimming the aircraft for balanced flight, we use the following method for quick set-up and find the aircraft flies perfectly. The attached pictures will compliment the text. Firstly this is a two person job.... forget it by yourself. Tie the control stick in the central position of the cockpit, tie it so it cant move when you pull on the ailerons further in the process. Place a straight edge or similar under each wing wedged up against the leading edge and trailing edge main tubes, the best position to do this adjustment is where the main struts attach to the wing, it is possible to tie them in position with some electricians tape or similar, the factory suggest aligning each aileron so they touch each straight edge but i have found through experiment that they are best if raised about 10 mm above the height of the straight edge. By raising the ailerons a little the plane flies better in the turns and does not suffer from the yaw problems that seem to happen in the standard position; i may be wrong but i think the plane flies faster with the ailerons lifted, something to do with reflex ??. To align the ailerons properly start with the ailerons in the right position and attach the bottom wires only, adjust the bottom wire with the turnbuckle to remove the slack, when you are satisfied with the position and tension you can then connect the top wires to the ailerons and adjust the turnbuckles to take out all the slack from the cables. Remove the string from the stick and remove the straight edges from under each wing and give the controls a good workout to check for proper operation, once satisfied position the stick centrally and replace the straight edges and check everything again, when your happy lock the turnbuckles and safety wire with a standard figure eight method. If the cables are to tight the controls will be stiff and notchy, to loose and they will be sloppy in flight, remember to use good quality silicone spray on the ends of the aileron and also on the two 'bearings' to reduce friction, finally do not over tighten the cap end bolts in the outboard ends of the wings because this will cause a lot of friction, and remember to safety wire them so they don't fall out. Any questions please send me an Email. Thanks Michael Coates X-Air Australia.

It's very important to get the aircraft perfectly balanced for the best performance, most of the aircraft in Australia that run Rotax 618's are at the nose heavy end of the acceptable range, some of the lighter engines like the 503's are at about the mid mark. I loaded a plane up to be at the aft end of the limits and found it to be very hard to fly so i would recommend from experience to keep it up the nose end. The weight and balance calcs are very simple with the information supplied with your kit, where most people come unstuck is in the actual methods used in weighing the aircraft, obviously the more accurate the better, but i have found a GOOD pair of bathroom scales does the job. By GOOD i mean an expensive pair that will read up to 135 kg's, most scales only go to 110 kg's and are not acceptable for this job as some of the weights are up to 120 kgs. The most important thing when weighing the aircraft is to keep the wheels level, i use some wood placed under the two wheels not being weighed, remember to chock the plane because when she rolls of the wood it gets a good run up and can move up to two metres. With the other two wheels chocked place the scales under the third wheel and take the reading, please use a jack as shown in the attached pictures, if you roll the wheel up onto the scales they will probably bend in the middle and be useless, same goes for lowering the wheel onto the scales take it easy, if you just drop the wheel down you will end up with bent set of scales. To spread the load a bit better i use a piece of 6 mm think aluminium about 300 by 300 mm to spread the load and i find this works well. Remember to make sure wood is under the other two wheels or the balance and weights will be out considerably. Hop this helps, thanks Michael X-Air Australia.

Michael, According to aircraft theory, if you raise both ailerons from neutral, you will increase both cruise and stall speeds. If you lower them, you will decrease them both. So you're right: If theory holds true, the plane should fly faster. I don't have a clue about why the plane would tend to yaw less. But the Xair manual said if you go positive, the plane will fly tail heavy, and if negative, the plane flies nose heavy. I understand your plane is on the nose heavy side, so the up aileron configuration, may counteract that somewhat. Of course this is only conjecture on my part as I don't really know. I do enough reading to make me dangerous. I just thought I'd throw my 2 cents in. By the way, your pic shows your aileron to be a finger width raised from the straight edge. I don't have near that much. I only have about 1/4 of an inch. Should I add more? Regards, Bill P.S. Here are some more pics of my Xair F. The first is my ailerons and flaps, (I have no idea where the stick was when i took the pic.) The second shows the Hirth setup.

Michael, Can you fly the Xair without the fuselage cloth? How does it fly? Is there more or less drag? Thanks, Bill

Don't do it: the cover also serves as a part of the fin. And without it you might not have enough fin and end up back to front. Peter Stuy

Gooday Trevor Good to have the plane in the air isn't it, now is the time to take in that feeling and enjoy flying. Cant help with the EGT, sorry. cheers Tony

Another quick tip when joining the two wings together..... route the straps as normal and use small clips to hold the straps in place. When tensioning the wing pull up each strap and slowly work your way around each tightening each strap a little bit at a time, if you try and tighten the strap in just one go you will not get enough tension on the fabric, so remember just a little bit at a time and you will get a wrinkle free wing surface. The clips make it really easy, if possible you will need 8 clips, once tight remove a clip and finish with a secure knot. Thanks Michael X-Air Australia

For those who thought I was too busy with my site, I've finished the new site for Speedwing Aircraft (North American XAir Importer/Distributor) You can visit it at: http://www.speedwing.ca Please update your bookmarks! -- Trevor Page X-Air Ontario Dealer tpage@... http://www.xair-ontario.com ____________________________ Free Email/SMTP/POP, http://www.bn3.com, Hosting yourname@...

Good day, I am interested in joining your news group as I am looking at purchasing an X-Air in South Africa I look forward to hearing from you. Regards Rodney Caruana

Bill Magrini wrote: Good question Bill, i am not really sure if it can be flown without the fastback. I would expect the plane could be flown without the fastback, but there would be an increase in drag and increased fuel consumption so i am not sure why you would bother ??. I think the plane would look pretty ugly with the back missing and i am sure the fastback and the fabric adds some strength to the whole structure. Thanks Michael X-Air Australia

Gday everyone, we have just uploaded a couple of more pictures into the files section under 'Aircraft Colours', if you have an aircraft you want to feature please send us some pics for display. We are one off having 50 members which is really good considering we only started a few weeks ago, and there is some great debate on engines and other issues. If there is anything you would like to see on this group please let me know and we will get it up and going. We also have a chat section on this eGroup which is currently dissabled but if there is enough interest i will activate it, set a time and we can all get on line and communicate together, please let me know what you think. Finally, this group has been set up for you.... owners, builders and people just comparing our aircraft against others, if you know of someone who you think may benifit from being along for the ride please ask them to join.... as they say 'The more the merrier' thanks Michael

I have poached all this from a newsgroup and it may be usefull in the Hirth - Rotax debate Okay... I don't want to start a war here... I just want to hear some folks experiences with Rotax and Hirth engines. :-) I'm building a Challenger II, and am considering the possibility of going with a Hirth 2706 rather than the standard Rotax 503DC. I would like to hear from both Rotax 503 owners and Hirth 2706 owners. * Have you had problems, and what kind? * Have you had a great running engine that has lasted forever? * What kind of support have you had if there were problems? * Has the engine lived up to your expectations? Please... I don't mean to be overly nit-picky, but I will completely disregard any posts from anybody who hasn't actually flown one of the two engines... I've already seen plenty of opinions that started with, "my brother's best friend's cousin knew this guy who was going with this girl who used to rent a house from a man who had a Rotax/Hirth, and nearly got killed because it quit on takeoff... yeah man... I think it was the flagellator valve or something..." :-) So please... no opinions, only first hand experience. Thanks!! Andrew Mueller amueller@... Well, I'll make your day. I have been around uls since before they were called uls. I have seen and flown lots of different engines, starting with a Mac 101 cart engine and a new blue head this sunday. I attended OshKosh and SnF for many years, lots of flyins, etc, I have rebuilt literally hundreds of rotax engines, some of them the same engine for thousands of hours, flown them as a newbie for hundreds and thousands more as an instructor. I've sold six brand new ones since the first of this year, and sure I've seen the 503 come in with a broken crank, seixed pistons, points stuck with no spark, carboned up so bad I could not get the rings out of the grooves with out a chisel. I flew a 503 with a broken crank three miles back to the field, didn't know it at the time though, and I intend to spend many more hours in front of or under a rotax pushing me and my friends through the sky, and the point of all this, I can't honestly say I have ever seen a Hirth engine fly anything, ever, in all that time, and places and years,,,,,,,,,,,,,, guess I can't help with the Hirth side,,,,,,,,, Hi Andrew, Why are you looking at the 503 instead of the 582 which gives the same HP....as the Hirth 2706. My friend here in Austalia is building a Challenger clip wing special 11 and bought a Hirth 2706 motor 4 years ago when he started to have his Challenger built. The new Hirth 2706 is now upgraded and his Challenger is nearly finished ..yes I would say he holds the Worlds record of 'takng the longest time to build an U/L' Now...he is in a quandary of what to do with the outdated new Hirth motor. He and I both , had a 582 Rotax for 3 years until last year on a Pegasus quantum and a Quasar Trike and after nearly 300 hours on each it never once had a hiccup. The new 'blue top' Rotax 582 is even better and if you are looking for more power like the Hirth 2706 for STOL etc I would not look any further. My two cents worth. Cheers Peter Consider this. When you're flying, why would you not want to be using the engine with the longest and best track record. Don't even consider the Hirth. Get a Rotax. The 503 is the best ultralight engine you can buy at any price. I have hundreds of hours of first hand experience with Rotax engines. I have a small amount of experience with a 2706 because it broke. The 2706 hp is over rated 65, should be 50. Nikisil cylinders are a bad idea, don't believe the hype about expantion rates. And the TBO, has anyone seen a Hirth engine make the supposed 1000 TBO? Personally I run a 582 but would be running a 503 if I could get by with less power. Q