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Hi Quote [Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy] He sees neon signs with messages such as "DO NOT BE ALARMED. BE VERY VERY FRIGHTENED, ARTHUR DENT." Some of my old manuals had been kept in the bottom of the machine and soaked in oil making them translucent since the images and text on the back page could be seen through the front page. I did find a method to remove the oil contamination by warming it to around 100+ degree centigrade and checking with a cable external meat thermometer BTW to make it more exciting my oven is GAS an electric would be safer GOOD ventilation is a MUST you will get smoke TEST FIRST Try it with some modern paper wiped with oil so that you can get the method and confidence to put the old manuals in the oven as separate sheets (remove the rusty staples) Before I used the oven I had some success with a hot air gun / hairdryer, it took too long and only one page at a time. You can lay quite a few pages on "Wire Cake Cooling Racks" and put them on the shelves of the oven Advice, test with paper that does not matter, to make sure you do not singe it ;-)) like one of my chickens when I did not hear the timer. all the best John

Hi I did start a reply to a recent WW8 topic and though I should say it here I used to work with electronic maps and electrical diagrams for cable layout in the street for phone networks for fault finding. You can't send an engineer massive amounts of diagram data, so optimised graphics was the key; a bit like editing images in the1990s web pages for faster download over a slow modem. I use a windscreen suction cup car phone holder Mount the camera about 12 inch from a table top on something heavy and shiny I used the water container for my dehumidifier, you need to reduce any vibration of the camera for better results. Lower the screen resolution of the camera and use masking tape to frame the photo area then you might not need to CROP every image I was copying Singer industrial books, I just turn the book upside down to photo the right hand page (image rotation later) I set the camera so I could just touch the screen to take a shot, pressing a button makes vibrations This method is so much faster than scanning If you only need to see the image on a computer and not print it then you can use a very low pixel small image and it is perfect for a laptop but wood look terrible if printed. Another setup I have seen was a wine box with the opening towards you and with a hole on side (now the top of the box) for the camera and some tape to stop it moving. You need lighting to make crisper images. Example I did in September 2021 Haid & Neu sewing machine Gamages (London store name) https://photos.app.goo.gl/HU9uZeCjb3Z6aD2w5 The silver twist bar is a cocktail stirrer holding the pages down. Ignore the Singer 28, there are two Gamages machines 1/ had bits missing 2/ the other was Ebay and arrived damaged and not working (hinge screw jammed where it shouldn't be) Serviced and take to my friend for her granddaughter to use, I gave Angela the Singer 28 for sewing alongside her granddaughter. All the best Hope this helps John

Hi All, happy to be here and have access to all the great information and expertise in this group. Some of you may recognize me by my Victorian Sweat Shop user name JRG and signature Jim in Seattle. I have become acquainted with several of you through VSS. Among the sewing machines I've accumulated in the last half dozen years are a Wheeler and Wilson No. 8 in a walnut parlor cabinet and two Singer 12W102s, one W&W dress and the other a few years newer and in Singer dress. The second 12W102 came in an industrial treadle and may be the nicest machine to treadle that I have. Here are VSS writeups for the three. No. 8 https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/1883-wheeler-and-wilson-no-8-sewing-machine-in-walnut-parlor-cabinet-13361174?highlight=wheeler%20wilson%208 Singer 12W102 in W&W dress https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1332341949&postcount=343&forum=501752 Singer 12W102 in Singer dress https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1337262364&postcount=457&forum=501752 Cheers, Jim in Seattle

Hi all, I’m joining you from Texas. Winters down here are much more tolerable than those I grew up with in Minnesota. Anyway, a long unlikely path of multiple factors has brought me here… from my dislike of shopping, trail running, outdoor gear repair, and the disposable nature of modern domestic sewing machines. Oh, and of course my discovery of Facebook marketplace and EstateSales.net… To make a long story not so long suffice it to say over the last year I’ve been hit hard by the VSM bug and have acquired at least one “really good” sewing machine from every decade from 1910 through 1970. I may have the 1900’s covered, but only if my singer 9W is from that decade, which I don’t believe it is. Anyway the 9W is the most recent addition to the family, and I was mainly intrigued by it because by this point I’ve become pretty familiar with all the different Singers and I found a listing for a “vintage singer”… but it didn’t look like any Singer I’d ever seen, no serial number visible, square pillar, what the heck? Just a beat up paint job and the Singer logo and badge. So I dismissed it as some weird counterfeit… but I was curious because the paint was in pretty rough shape, and it looked age appropriate, so that all seemed odd for a counterfeit. Then I finally discovered the Singer 9W’s and their story. So I pounced on the deal. From what I’ve pieced together, I likely have a 9W-7. It’s Singer branded, with the standard Singer mounts for their treadles, and it takes the FW type bobbins. I haven’t tested this, but the bobbin that was in the bobbin case was that type, not the bagel style. Serial number is W70686, so I’m guessing this one is from near the end of the 9W production. I just got it oiled up, everything broken loose, and I can’t wait to finish cleaning it up and then taking it for a whirl… so smooth. Love the rotary hook. Also, I’ve really enjoyed learning about the story from W&W to singer, if you can’t beat them, buy them! Looking forward to reading through the archives here and continuing a bit further down this rabbit hole. Regards, Joshua

Has anyone around here had any luck, or attempted, to make any of the early style model 8 bobbins with 3D-printing or finding a machine shop to crank some out? Tomorrow, if all goes well, I'm picking up a model 8 with a S/N in the lower 300,000's. From the pictures, it looks like there is a little bit of thread coming out of the bobbin case. So I'm hopeful that I'll have at least one bobbin. But it would be nice to have a few more... I know some people w/3D printers, although I haven't tested their capabilities or the material capabilities. There are also several machinist shops in the area. I was thinking that making a bobbin couldn't be too difficult for either the 3D printer or the machinist. I have no idea on the pricing yet for the machinist route. (I'm also going to modify a spare D9 needle bar to accept 15x1 needles for my 9W machine.) Anyway, if anyone has tried this and failed or succeeded I'd appreciate any advice before I dive into this. My apologies if this has already been brought up, I did a brief search and didn't see this covered. Best, Joshua

Sandra;The "Correct" needle for the #8 is a 126x1 needle. They are no longer manufactured but occasionally some might turn up. This is also the needle replicated by the Boye #27 tube. These needles have a 1.75mm diameter round shank with a length to eye of 38.9mm.?There are however a couple of readily available, economically priced needles available which can be used. These are the 128x1 & the DBx1 needles. ? ?Both of these needles have a length to eye of 33.9mm so have to be pulled down off the stop by about 5mm. The 128x1 needle has a round shank of 1.75mm while the DBx1's round shank is 1.64mm. In any case the eye has to be aligned which is no big deal. Just remember the W&W machines (Other than the curved needle ones) thread right to left so the long groove goes to the right.There is no absolute dating for these machines, however if you will send me the SN I might can narrow the range a bit.?Miller/TN?

Bill Wells was a valuable contributor to this list, and will be missed. I got the following note last night from his son, Scott. > My father Bill Wells avidly repaired and rebuilt Wheeler and Wilson > sewing machines, and I believe he was an active member of your > community. Dad died at home on April 9. His public-facing > obituary may be found at > https://www.starlingfuneralhome.com/m/obituaries/William-Wells-34/Memories > and on Facebook. > He really enjoyed that pastime, and we often spoke of it, down > to the technical challenges of repair and renovation. I didn't > want the people he encountered to wonder what become of him. > Sincerely yours, > Scott Wells I smiled to see Bill's obituary photo, posed with two No.9-class machines. paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 60.3 degrees)

Hello all, I'm new to the group. I just purchased a Singer 9W Treadle. It's serial number is W60188. It's bobbin has holes all around. I'm interested in learning all I can about this machine. I know it's the Singer version of the D9 machine. I'm finding many of the posts and files on this group to be helpful. Just wondering if anyone knows where the "w" serial numbers fall in the production of these machines. Are they the oldest/first ones Singer put out, or did they come along at the end of the production period? Thank you for any input. Linda G

Thank you for the add, happy to be here, learning everything I can about these fantastic machines! So far I have a curved needle #3, four #8 treadles, a #8 crank, and a D9. I love 8s, as you can tell. Two of them have the early bobbin case and three of them have the later tensioned case. Just reading through old posts for now, I’m sure I’ll have questions as I go along. -Lauren

I would like to announce that I self-published a reworking of the 1919 Singer 9w1 and 9w7 Parts List. These parts are nearly all compatible with the W&W 9 and D9 machines from which Singer cloned. I have improved the illustrations by photographing original parts or computer reworking other images. I also added more information at appropriate places including variants of attachments and other part. Added also are previously non-existent numerical and alphabetical listing of the parts. I believe the 153-page book will be helpful of all people interested in the Singer and W&W versions. It is on Amazon and available on Kindle and in paperback. https://www.amazon.com/stores/William-Wells/author/B0CBD8WB9Q?ref=ap_rdr&store_ref=ap_rdr&isDramIntegrated=true&shoppingPortalEnabled=true

Some time ago I saw the images posted by someone of D9 parts in an Excelsior Supply Company catalog. Does anyone know who owns this catalog? I would like to contact the owner. Thanks

Good chilly AM to all, Anybody have any thoughts/techniques for restoring curved needles? I guess, more than that, I kind of know of a number of options, I guess it'd be good to know if it's worth the effort. Like, when you're done de-pitting and de-rusting and trying to shine them up, will they actually work properly? I'm thinking the groove is gonna be a challenge to clean out in a few of these that came with the ill-advised #3 (that I got even though it was ill-advised!). Thanks, and stay warm! Ziggy

Sorry, I didn't mean to mislead! I posted early about some parts I have left over from a #3, and failed to include the parts list and prices. The ad implied that we were letting the parts go for postage. My bad. Available are: Brush and check segment (no brush) $5 Frog arm w/ hinge and screw $8 Needle arm w/ screw $8 Hook and spindle (properly cleaned) $25 Cloth plate $5 Some knucklehead spray-painted the poor thing black and tried to make a lamp out of it or something. The hook and spindle are very clean, frog, needle are, cloth plate are still spray painted, brush segment is just a bit rusted. Again sorry for any confusion (JP). Seller pays shipping, PayPal. Thanks, Ziggy

Judy's Sewing & Craft Museum in Morro Bay CA is closing soon and is trying to get its collection of about 90 sewing machines, including 7 Wheeler & Wilson machines, into the hands of those who know and love them. They are being auctioned individually on the following website - https://slocalestateauctions.com/ The museum website is https://jsewcraftm,com/

Just thought it seems appropriate to note that today is Allen Wilson's 200th birthday! As a refresher, he invented the vibrating shuttle, the rotary hook and round bobbin, and the four way motion for the feed dogs. And, of course, he was the "Wilson" of Wheeler and Wilson. paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 56.0 degrees)