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Looking for hinge for W&W D9 cabinet

 

I have a broken hinge bracket for a W&W D9 treadle.? It is the right side hinge for the machine lift.?The bracket has a pin in?it that goes into the side of the frame and is what allows the support frame that holds the machine to pivot.? Anyone have extra Wheeler and Wilson treadle cabinet parts?

See pictures in this folder for details of what I am looking for.


Thanks for any help you can provide....or suggestions on what to do if I can't get a replacement.

Cathy Stephens
 


I would make a new one out of steel, you need to find a fabrication shop or even a handy garage.?
We would used some flat steel and mig welder and grind it to shape and then drill (Family run Blacksmiths sad to say now sold, opened 1890s)

JB weld glue will never be strong enough for this job [1]

I don't think it cast iron (we could with special rods weld that ) normally a repair would be brazed.
It is more likely?to be steel or iron and that can be welded if you wanted a new piece added on and then drill.

My choice would be to replicate it out of flat steel or even cut some angle iron to give you the raised edge and no welding.

I live in Wales UK so I am sorry I can't do more for you,?wish I could.

I still have not fixed my WW D9 corner of the base is broken across the stitch length adjuster might JB weld it to save the paint
?

all the best
John?



On Sun, 26 Jul 2020 at 18:48, Cathy Stephens <cathys8780@...> wrote:
I have a broken hinge bracket for a W&W D9 treadle.? It is the right side hinge for the machine lift.?The bracket has a pin in?it that goes into the side of the frame and is what allows the support frame that holds the machine to pivot.? Anyone have extra Wheeler and Wilson treadle cabinet parts?

See pictures in this folder for details of what I am looking for.


Thanks for any help you can provide....or suggestions on what to do if I can't get a replacement.

Cathy Stephens
 

Thanks John.? I may have found a replacement.? Will know soon.? I will keep your idea of using angle iron and modifying that as a backup.? It is steel, not cast iron.
 

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I do not have any spare parts but could fabricate a new one easy enough, Blacksmiths and welders are not gone we are just harder to find. If you have both pieces it could be breezed or maybe welded, it certainly looks like cast iron. Unfortunately I do not blacksmith full time but if you want to send it to me I will repair or make a replacement as I can. It would probably not be fast unless my traveling work schedule slows down.

Ken Jansen

On Jul 26, 2020, at 13:48, Cathy Stephens <cathys8780@...> wrote:

?
I have a broken hinge bracket for a W&W D9 treadle.? It is the right side hinge for the machine lift.?The bracket has a pin in?it that goes into the side of the frame and is what allows the support frame that holds the machine to pivot.? Anyone have extra Wheeler and Wilson treadle cabinet parts?

See pictures in this folder for details of what I am looking for.


Thanks for any help you can provide....or suggestions on what to do if I can't get a replacement.

Cathy Stephens
 

Hello,

? I have a couple no 8's in our herd of W&W's.? One was cracked across the bed on the rear some time long ago.? The bed on the no 8 is thinner than what I am used to on machines.? I believe the stress that caused it to break was induced by the wooden base coming apart and allowing the stress to go to the bed when the case was being moved around.? My "fix" was single layer 10oz fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.? I then took felt and covered it with that.? Looks great and importantly very strong.? Some previous owner long ago drilled two holes in the bed then counter sunk and used pan head screws of fairly large size.? This person then threaded holes into flat bar and screwed it up against the bottom of the bed.? It is a fairly good repair and I guess I could smooth the bed over with epoxy and paint to make it near invisible.

? We have done cast iron repairs repeatedly using stainless steel welding rod of 2.0mm size.? I buy this electrode by the kilo.? First we tested on cast iron broken parts and found it works well.? Then I received a New Home machine that was broken entirely across the bed.? We used this technique to repair the bed and it really did come out good saving the machine but losing about a 1 inch wide section of decals where the break was on the bed and subsequently repaired.? Some black paint and nobody can tell on the top of bed except the loss of decals and black paint that doesn't match perfectly.

Best regards,
Mike

On Monday, July 27, 2020, 02:30:40 AM GMT+8, John Harrison <jdhtyler@...> wrote:



I would make a new one out of steel, you need to find a fabrication shop or even a handy garage.?
We would used some flat steel and mig welder and grind it to shape and then drill (Family run Blacksmiths sad to say now sold, opened 1890s)

JB weld glue will never be strong enough for this job [1]

I don't think it cast iron (we could with special rods weld that ) normally a repair would be brazed.
It is more likely?to be steel or iron and that can be welded if you wanted a new piece added on and then drill.

My choice would be to replicate it out of flat steel or even cut some angle iron to give you the raised edge and no welding.

I live in Wales UK so I am sorry I can't do more for you,?wish I could.

I still have not fixed my WW D9 corner of the base is broken across the stitch length adjuster might JB weld it to save the paint
?

all the best
John?



On Sun, 26 Jul 2020 at 18:48, Cathy Stephens <cathys8780@...> wrote:
I have a broken hinge bracket for a W&W D9 treadle.? It is the right side hinge for the machine lift.?The bracket has a pin in?it that goes into the side of the frame and is what allows the support frame that holds the machine to pivot.? Anyone have extra Wheeler and Wilson treadle cabinet parts?

See pictures in this folder for details of what I am looking for.


Thanks for any help you can provide....or suggestions on what to do if I can't get a replacement.

Cathy Stephens
 

Thanks for the tips.?Michael Kendall

The previous owner had glued the broken bit onto the wood base; the break occurred?through the rear stitch length?screw hole. When in use you do not notice the break unless you lift the head.

The seller told me lies and that the machine worked perfectly ? and for ?50 no haggling?I decided to take it.
The other fault was the missing tiny bobbin tension screw, I found I could use one out of a singer, not perfect but it works.

I had considered and may use fiberglass mat, I also have some very fine SS perforated mesh and if I use JB weld so the repair can be?seen below the head; on the top of the machine it will look just like a hairline crack there is no need to paint it.

Another task will be to make some more bobbins out of copper sheet and tube.
I did have quite a conversation with Mr Miller (very sad, he said he was ill), but good memories regarding his engineering knowledge about adapting industrial needles to fit the WWD9. I have a few other makes of machine that use non standard needles.
[Jones, Bradbury and an Elsa]
What is odd is that different makers of the same needle can have different diameters, I have quite a selection of PDFs that were compiled by someone else they make interesting reading? ? ?

Welding - not Sewing - off topic ;-) waffle
In the 1970s we had special cast iron rods, the funny thing was the shiny flux coating was conductive and when reaching in to repair a frost damaged engine?block you had to be careful what you brushed up against ;-) my dad was doing the welding and I was only 12ish.
His biggest repair was a fire engine?gearbox that was in 16 pieces?welded an inch at a time over 2 days and kept warm on the forge residual heat. When finished and all reassembled?you could turn it over by hand but it did squeak?a bit ever so often ;-)

He once used a piece?of scrap cast iron and plated a tractor that had a 12 inch split on the block, the tractor was outside in the yard. He said if this fails we will stitch drill and tap the split with bolts.

Sad to say I was the last of my line 4th generation blacksmith but by the late 1980s I moved into electronics?and computing. I have included pictures to make you smile.
My grandad made the micrometer with the shaper and geared threading lathe that are behind the horse.


The gearbox reduction he designed and built?a few during WW2 so that an old car could be used as a tractor plough.

all the best
John


On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 00:38, Michael Kendall via <michael.kendall=[email protected]> wrote:
Hello,

? I have a couple no 8's in our herd of W&W's.? One was cracked across the bed on the rear some time long ago.? The bed on the no 8 is thinner than what I am used to on machines.? I believe the stress that caused it to break was induced by the wooden base coming apart and allowing the stress to go to the bed when the case was being moved around.? My "fix" was single layer 10oz fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.? I then took felt and covered it with that.? Looks great and importantly very strong.? Some previous owner long ago drilled two holes in the bed then counter sunk and used pan head screws of fairly large size.? This person then threaded holes into flat bar and screwed it up against the bottom of the bed.? It is a fairly good repair and I guess I could smooth the bed over with epoxy and paint to make it near invisible.

? We have done cast iron repairs repeatedly using stainless steel welding rod of 2.0mm size.? I buy this electrode by the kilo.? First we tested on cast iron broken parts and found it works well.? Then I received a New Home machine that was broken entirely across the bed.? We used this technique to repair the bed and it really did come out good saving the machine but losing about a 1 inch wide section of decals where the break was on the bed and subsequently repaired.? Some black paint and nobody can tell on the top of bed except the loss of decals and black paint that doesn't match perfectly.

Best regards,
Mike

On Monday, July 27, 2020, 02:30:40 AM GMT+8, John Harrison <jdhtyler@...> wrote:



I would make a new one out of steel, you need to find a fabrication shop or even a handy garage.?
We would used some flat steel and mig welder and grind it to shape and then drill (Family run Blacksmiths sad to say now sold, opened 1890s)

JB weld glue will never be strong enough for this job [1]

I don't think it cast iron (we could with special rods weld that ) normally a repair would be brazed.
It is more likely?to be steel or iron and that can be welded if you wanted a new piece added on and then drill.

My choice would be to replicate it out of flat steel or even cut some angle iron to give you the raised edge and no welding.

I live in Wales UK so I am sorry I can't do more for you,?wish I could.

I still have not fixed my WW D9 corner of the base is broken across the stitch length adjuster might JB weld it to save the paint
?

all the best
John?



On Sun, 26 Jul 2020 at 18:48, Cathy Stephens <cathys8780@...> wrote:
I have a broken hinge bracket for a W&W D9 treadle.? It is the right side hinge for the machine lift.?The bracket has a pin in?it that goes into the side of the frame and is what allows the support frame that holds the machine to pivot.? Anyone have extra Wheeler and Wilson treadle cabinet parts?

See pictures in this folder for details of what I am looking for.


Thanks for any help you can provide....or suggestions on what to do if I can't get a replacement.

Cathy Stephens
 

Hi John,

? Very nice pictures and story of ingenuity.? Thanks for sharing.? The family watched a Netflix movie "The Boy Who Harnessed The Wind" last night and it was an incredible true story of triumph over hardships and ingenuity.? It turned into a couple discussions of how the Jacob brothers sat on the front porch watching and learning how to make one with an odd number of blades (four in the movie), furling techniques, and the problems beset poorer countries in the world.? I'm certain our 10 year old triplets will remember this movie for life.? Amazing what can be done with persistence and ingenuity.

Best regards,
Mike



On Monday, July 27, 2020, 02:37:09 PM GMT+8, John Harrison <jdhtyler@...> wrote:


Thanks for the tips.?Michael Kendall

The previous owner had glued the broken bit onto the wood base; the break occurred?through the rear stitch length?screw hole. When in use you do not notice the break unless you lift the head.

The seller told me lies and that the machine worked perfectly ? and for ?50 no haggling?I decided to take it.
The other fault was the missing tiny bobbin tension screw, I found I could use one out of a singer, not perfect but it works.

I had considered and may use fiberglass mat, I also have some very fine SS perforated mesh and if I use JB weld so the repair can be?seen below the head; on the top of the machine it will look just like a hairline crack there is no need to paint it.

Another task will be to make some more bobbins out of copper sheet and tube.
I did have quite a conversation with Mr Miller (very sad, he said he was ill), but good memories regarding his engineering knowledge about adapting industrial needles to fit the WWD9. I have a few other makes of machine that use non standard needles.
[Jones, Bradbury and an Elsa]
What is odd is that different makers of the same needle can have different diameters, I have quite a selection of PDFs that were compiled by someone else they make interesting reading? ? ?

Welding - not Sewing - off topic ;-) waffle
In the 1970s we had special cast iron rods, the funny thing was the shiny flux coating was conductive and when reaching in to repair a frost damaged engine?block you had to be careful what you brushed up against ;-) my dad was doing the welding and I was only 12ish.
His biggest repair was a fire engine?gearbox that was in 16 pieces?welded an inch at a time over 2 days and kept warm on the forge residual heat. When finished and all reassembled?you could turn it over by hand but it did squeak?a bit ever so often ;-)

He once used a piece?of scrap cast iron and plated a tractor that had a 12 inch split on the block, the tractor was outside in the yard. He said if this fails we will stitch drill and tap the split with bolts.

Sad to say I was the last of my line 4th generation blacksmith but by the late 1980s I moved into electronics?and computing. I have included pictures to make you smile.
My grandad made the micrometer with the shaper and geared threading lathe that are behind the horse.


The gearbox reduction he designed and built?a few during WW2 so that an old car could be used as a tractor plough.

all the best
John

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