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Introduction: #introduction


 

Hello, All!

A good friend gave me her aunt's treadle Wheeler and Wilson that originally reigned on a sheep ranch in Oregon for several years. It has the serial number of 2341945 and the last patent on it is 8/18/1885.? There is an S in the middle of the WW's so I wonder if it is a nod to Singer. It has the coffin top. This machine runs well now that I added a belt. I have rubbed sewing machine oil on it. What is a best way to get rust off the plate? Way back when, people used to soak machines in kerosene to clean them up.? Would that be appropriate for this machine?

Can I brighten up the gold lettering? Since this machine's cabinet has spent the last several years holding potted plants as a living room decorative, how do I refinish the water rings left on the top board and the splinters on the edges?

How hard is it to get needles? Can these needles be sharpened?? Has anyone considered creating them via a company like Shapeways that mades 3D copies of designs sent to them?

?I have another treadle machine, a 1910 Singer Cabinet model I have had for several years.? I am looking forward to exploring how this Wheeler and Wilson compares to it. Ironically, my dad threw away the two treadle machines at the house when he became in charge, saying that nobody would be interested in them now that electricity had come to the farm.

Thank you for creating this group and letting me join.?

Betty Fitzsimmons


William L Vanderburg
 

If it's in the 2 million serial range it should be in the D-9 territory.? That "S" in the WWs is not an S.? It's an Ampersand. &

If the patent plate is correct, it would not be a nod to Singer, since Wheeler & Wilson were bought out by them in 1905.

The serial number records ?for anything after 1876 are not available, so guesses have to be made.

In your bobbin area, is it a flip down bobbin carrier, or does a finger go through the bobbin itself.? That is the main way to tell the difference between a 9 and a D-9 ?

You can send me a pic to my personal email. ?army30th at gmail dot com

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 3:24 PM, Betty <dfitzclan@...> wrote:
Hello, All!

A good friend gave me her aunt's treadle Wheeler and Wilson that originally reigned on a sheep ranch in Oregon for several years. It has the serial number of 2341945 and the last patent on it is 8/18/1885.? There is an S in the middle of the WW's so I wonder if it is a nod to Singer. It has the coffin top. This machine runs well now that I added a belt. I have rubbed sewing machine oil on it. What is a best way to get rust off the plate? Way back when, people used to soak machines in kerosene to clean them up.? Would that be appropriate for this machine?

Can I brighten up the gold lettering? Since this machine's cabinet has spent the last several years holding potted plants as a living room decorative, how do I refinish the water rings left on the top board and the splinters on the edges?

How hard is it to get needles? Can these needles be sharpened?? Has anyone considered creating them via a company like Shapeways that mades 3D copies of designs sent to them?

?I have another treadle machine, a 1910 Singer Cabinet model I have had for several years.? I am looking forward to exploring how this Wheeler and Wilson compares to it. Ironically, my dad threw away the two treadle machines at the house when he became in charge, saying that nobody would be interested in them now that electricity had come to the farm.

Thank you for creating this group and letting me join.?

Betty Fitzsimmons



 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý


Hi, William, a finger goes through the bobbin itself. ?Yes, I see the motif repeated on the seal in gold much better and you are correct, it is an ampersand!

Thank you!

-------- Original message --------
From: William L Vanderburg <Army30th@...>
Date: 9/18/17 1:13 PM (GMT-08:00)
Subject: Re: [Wheeler_and_Wilson-Sewing-Machines] Introduction: #introduction

If it's in the 2 million serial range it should be in the D-9 territory.? That "S" in the WWs is not an S.? It's an Ampersand. &

If the patent plate is correct, it would not be a nod to Singer, since Wheeler & Wilson were bought out by them in 1905.

The serial number records ?for anything after 1876 are not available, so guesses have to be made.

In your bobbin area, is it a flip down bobbin carrier, or does a finger go through the bobbin itself.? That is the main way to tell the difference between a 9 and a D-9 ?

You can send me a pic to my personal email. ?army30th at gmail dot com

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 3:24 PM, Betty <dfitzclan@...> wrote:
Hello, All!

A good friend gave me her aunt's treadle Wheeler and Wilson that originally reigned on a sheep ranch in Oregon for several years. It has the serial number of 2341945 and the last patent on it is 8/18/1885.? There is an S in the middle of the WW's so I wonder if it is a nod to Singer. It has the coffin top. This machine runs well now that I added a belt. I have rubbed sewing machine oil on it. What is a best way to get rust off the plate? Way back when, people used to soak machines in kerosene to clean them up.? Would that be appropriate for this machine?

Can I brighten up the gold lettering? Since this machine's cabinet has spent the last several years holding potted plants as a living room decorative, how do I refinish the water rings left on the top board and the splinters on the edges?

How hard is it to get needles? Can these needles be sharpened?? Has anyone considered creating them via a company like Shapeways that mades 3D copies of designs sent to them?

?I have another treadle machine, a 1910 Singer Cabinet model I have had for several years.? I am looking forward to exploring how this Wheeler and Wilson compares to it. Ironically, my dad threw away the two treadle machines at the house when he became in charge, saying that nobody would be interested in them now that electricity had come to the farm.

Thank you for creating this group and letting me join.?

Betty Fitzsimmons



 

One thing that can be said absolutely with certainty about these lovely machines, is that the decals are FRAGILE. I have had several with reasonable decals, one or two with almost none.. If you breathe too hard near them they will come off. ?So, no rubbing, no solvents (kerosene is to unstick frozen machines, please don't), look after what you have, and Please, please do not paint it pink..

Helen Howes


 

Hi Betty;
Sounds like you indeed have a D-9. It should however have a last patent date of Aug 3, 1892. If you note the patent dates on the right hand plate there is likely 7 dates listed. They read numerically from top to bottom in two columns. That 8/18/85 date would be the last (4th) date in the left hand column, when you step over to the right hand column there are only three dates which should end with the 8/3/92 date. This plate should also have a D-9 mark stamped into it. The D-9 machines were made by W&W beginning in 1895 through their sell out to Singer in 1905. Serial numbers seem to have started around 2,200,000 & go into the upper 2,900,000 ths or a total production of between 700,000 & 800,000. I would "Guesstimate" by serial number interpolation your machine would date to 1897/98. I have a rather early D-9 handcrank at SN 2,276,882 which I guess as probably an 1896.
The needles for these machine were originally known as a 9N1, but were later given the designation by Singer as a 127x1. If you are familiar with the Boye tubes, Tube #18 is the correct one for these machines. The needle does have a flat & is fully self setting. Unfortunately none of these are in current production so we are limited to old stock. A member here, Jon, who is also a dealer generally has some of these at competitive prices, perhaps he will contact you.
There is a substitute needle which some use that is proper length but has a small round shank. The smaller shank allows it to pass by the alignment feature for the flat. The two downsides are that first being a round shank the eye must be aligned, not a big deal. The 2nd is that due to the much smaller shank the needle in clamping is pushed away from the hook. This "Could" under some difficult conditions result in skipped stitches. A good number of people have tried this needle & reported no problems with it. I have not personally tried it so am only giving what I deem to be a possibility. Will have to look up the number for it. Have to run for now so will pick back up later.
Miller/TN


 

Yes, you are correct. I do have that last patent listed on the right side of the plate. Jon has contacted me and i have put in my order for needles and bobbin.

Is there an easy way to get the bobbin plate to slide out smoothly? Has anyone used the attachments?

Some day I would like to get a hand crank model for my daughter's Montessori school. I bet you enjoy that!

Thank You!

Betty Fitzsimmons


 

Hi Betty.

From the way you worded your question; "Is there an easy way to get the bobbin plate to slide out smoothly?" I assume you have had the plate out, just that it was not smooth. This is a matter of smoothing up the dovetail contacts which the plate slides in. You can first try just oiling with a good light oil or penetrant & sliding the plate in & out several times, This may well loosen it up as much as you need. If this doesn't work my next step would be to rub the contact areas with some oiled 4-O steel wool to knock off any high spots of rust etc. It is also noted that some W&W plates, though not all, have a tightness adjustment built in. This consists of a little slot cut near one edge of the plate. At one end of this slot a 90¡ã cut is made out the side of the plate. To tighten the plate you place a screwdriver in the slot at the open end & twist it thus spreading this finger for a tighter fit. to loosen the fit you simply tap the finger back in a bit.
Yes I use some of my attachments, some more than others. if this link works here is a picture of a wall hanging I made & presented to the very nice lary who gave me her Grandmother's W&W treadle. This was my very first W&W machine, an 1892-95 #9, forerunner of the D-9. Main attachment used on this was the ruffler which was with the machine. The ribs in each quarter of the fan were done by marking the back side, then backing of the bobbin tension & sewing from back & bobbin stitching using pearl cotton.
Miller/TN


 

Miller,?

Yes, I have that adjustment on the bobbin plate. Thank you for pointing that out! I noticed many machines for sale have the bobbin cover missing so I figured sewers found the cover frustrating. No, the link is not coming through, but I would like to see it. I want to make doll clothes like those in Martha Pullen's doll books. My now-adult girls modeled for her way back when. THAT ended when the toddler decided to do a cartwheel on stage modeling a priceless dress.

Betty


 

Thank you, Helen for your suggestions!.

Betty