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Older #8 bobbin set up


 

Hoping someone (Miller in TN?) ?can help me find the "sweet spot" for loading the
bobbin case on an older #8 Wheeler & Wilson -- does NOT have the 8
embossed?on it and the bobbin winder is on the stand. ?

This bobbin case does not match the picture?of the bobbin case set up in my?
copy of the Carter Bays encyclopedia. ?The pictures there show a spring?
on the bobbin case and this one was clearly NOT made with a spring as there
are no screw holes for it to have attached. There is a second case in the drawer.

I have it correctly threaded (it kept jumping out of the tensioner). It has the
correct needle #29 from the Boye case (I only had one), the bobbin was wound
by hand.?

It WILL PICK UP THE THREAD, but it only makes two stitches before?
it breaks and when I look down into the bobbin race area the top thread has
wound itself around the bobbin race several times.

Yes, I did run the fabric without it threaded up so I could adjust the stitch
length with the lever underneath.?

I've been working on and off on this machine two years for a customer?
and this is the last step before returning it to them for the family estate.

Any guidance would be much appreciated. A copy of the threading and
the bobbin race would be even better so I could send a copy of it with
the machine.

Thank you for your time, Allison
?
Allison C. Bayer, Vintage Sewing Machine Collector


 

Hi Allison;
The set up you describe is actually the most commonly found on the #8. The bobbin case with tension spring is on only a few very late #8 machines.
First & foremost it is very important the bobbin is inserted in the proper direction. When placing the bobbin in the machine the thread comes off the bottom toward you, so when it is picked up it comes to the top in Front of the bobbin. A #8 simply will not sew if the bobbin is reversed.
A couple of other things to look for is if over the years either the tension or the fit of the holder has been tampered with. The bobbin tension is adjusted by the little knurled head screw you see at the end of the bed underneath the rear of the bobbin cover plate. This screw controls the fit of a bar which goes across the hook. The bobbin thread is not under constant tension, tension is applied only during the short interval needed for tightening the stitch. With the bobbin installed & thread picked up you can turn the machine slowly by hand & find that spot where the tension is applied. If you have a good sense of feel as to what the bobbin thread tension should feel like you can pull on the thread at this point & determine if it is way out of tension, either too tight or too loose. Adjust till it feels good & then of course final adjustment would need to be done with actual sewing.
The other thing to look for is if the bobbin holder has bee set up too tight to the bobbin case. As the thread is picked off the needle it must be able to travel smoothly across the bobbin case, between it & the holder. If it is too tight & binds there thread breakage is the result. When the holder ring is raised to secure the bobbin there must be enough looseness for the thread to pass around it. At the base of the bobbin holder pointing toward the bobbin is a screw with a flat on the end. Turning this screw in or out adjusts the fit of the holder to the case.
If all of this seems proper & you are still having problems do feel free to ask further. The only time I ever had a problem with my #8 was at a TOGA one year & I got mixed up & kept putting the bobbin in backwards. As I said they simply "Will Not Sew" with the bobbin in backwards. This upsets the time frame at which the tension is applied & will result in nothing but big Bird Nests beneath the fabric.
Miller/TN


 

I thought the correct boye needle for a #8 is 27. Please correct me if I misunderstood. I have a #8 that I have not tried out yet & don't want to use the wrong needle.


 

Boye Tube/Needle #27 is the correct one for the W&W #8. This needle was formerly known as the 6N1 & more recently as the 126x1. It has a 1.75mm (.069") round shank & is 38.9mm to top of eye. This needle was first introduced with the industrial W&W #6 & is also the correct needle for most #9 machines A few late #9 machines, all D-9 & Singer 9W machines use essentially the same needle with flat. This was known as the 9N1 & the 127x1 & is tube #18 in the Boye cabinets.

Likely the Boye #29 was simply a typo as there actually is no Boye #29. Tube #27 is in fact the highest number in the Boye Series.

In my own #8 & #9 machines I usually use a DBx1 needle. This needle has a round shank of 1.64MM (.065")) diameter but is only 33.9 mm to eye. Both this needle & the "proper" one have to have the eye aligned & this DBx1 needle also has to be pulled down in the clamp approx 5mm so the hook can pick up the needle thread. After that is done no difference can be told between it & the proper needle.
Miller/TN


 

one little issue that i discovered this last week... i must have installed the needle in backwards because it just made a few stitches and then thread broke.. did not look right on the bottom either...
turned the needle around the other direction, lined it up and have been making functional bags for the TO exchange.... every seam is perfect...
judy in so cal
____________________________________________________________
Police Urge Americans to Carry This With Them at All Times
The Observer


 

All of the straight needle W&W Family machines thread right to left. When installing the needle thus the long groove goes to the right, scarf to the left. Even if threaded in the right direction they won't Sew so Pretty good with the needle reversed.

On the W&W machines which use a needle with flat the needle does not seat on the flat as on Singers. The flat serves only for indexing the needle & is engaged by the clamp screw, but the needle actually seats on the opposite round side.
Miller/TN