Re: My Wheeler & Wilson

Hi Diana;

Instructions on installing a belt simply say it should be "Just tight enough to run the machine without slipping". A bit vague? know but how it is stated. A too tight belt will treadle hard &? place an extra load on the bearings.?

When installing a new leather belt I normally first place one ed on the floor & stand on it. I then run the other end up over my shoulder & give it a good stretch to take out some of the initial stretch. I then run it around the pulleys & pull it fairly snug, mark, cut & join it together. After running a bit it will stretch some more & begin to slip. Straighten one end of the staple & remove that belt end & cut off through the staple hole (about 1/4 inch), re-punch? re-join. You may have to do this a couple of times but the it should run for a long time without further stretching.

It is not uncommon at all for the bobbin winder to actually run harder than the machine itself. Just be sure your winder is oiled & turning freely but it will still load as heavy, or heavier, as the machine.? It should not turn both ways, that sounds as if you don't have your treadling rhythm down good.?

Miller/TN

Re: My Wheeler & Wilson

Diana Burrow

#3160

I've finally installed a leather belt on my WW D-9. Does anyone know how tight it should be?? I find winding the bobbin is quite a challenge. I now have a greater respect for the woman of the1800's!!? I could only find one utube demo for this. It was not complete enough for me. Does anyone in this group know of a web site, or any other resource that has a more detailed explanation?? As I treadle, the bobbin turns forward and backward, winding and unwinding. ugh!!? Thank you for your comments to come!

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On Oct 16, 2017 1:03 AM, "Diana Burrow" <mygranna@...> wrote:

My D-9 is the drop head version. I acquired the machine first and the cabinet later. I cleaned the machine the best I could. It has no decals and looks as though someone painted it. However all the important parts were removed first and put back on. My cabinet is need of refurbishing. I watched a man on utube and he took all the pieces apart, fixing the missing veneer spots. It does seem overwhelming!!? It's a good challenge for me and my husband, but well worth it. ?

On Oct 15, 2017 3:27 PM, "Miller Fulks" <mmf38@...> wrote:
Hi Diana;
The D-9 is a very good stitching machine. Is your D-9 a covered top version with the bandwheel out side the leg or the drop head with bandwheel inside the leg. No real difference in the stitching ability, just curious as to type. My D-9 treadle is the drop head variety. I was very fortunate in obtaining a hand crank version at a very reasonable cost which I use much more than the treadle.
Miller/TN

Re: My Wheeler & Wilson

#3159

Hi Diana,

I added schmatic pics of 8, 9, D9, & 12 to Photos in "W&W Parts Schematics".? Once downloaded the pics can be magnified.? The schematic are from a? Excelsior Supply Company catalog c.1910

I found the descriptions of W&W 9 and D9 interesting.? The D9 is described as "Wheeler & Wilson No 9, Latest (Formerly D9)" .The #9 is described as "9-1 machine formerly old style 9".??

Jon? ?

Re: My Wheeler & Wilson

#3158

Diane;

I do not know of one except what is found in the owner's manuals which of course are not complete.

Miller/TN

Re: My Wheeler & Wilson

Diana Burrow

#3157

I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find a parts list of the W&W D-9.?

Re: New and have two D9's

Diana Burrow

#3156

I measured the opening for the slide plate, it's 2 1/2 X 1 5/8. I'll keep a watch on e-bay. Thank you!

Re: New and have two D9's

#3155

Hi Diana;

These plates appear rather frequently on E-Bay. Seems a lot of folks are deciding they can get more for the machines by stripping them down & selling parts than selling a possible working machine, perhaps a bit drab in appearance.? An unfortunate circumstance really, though it does provide some parts sources for us. Prices vary considerably, some think they have a Gold Mine, others are more reasonable. You might do a search there, or perhaps some member here will have what you need & respond.

Miller/TN

Re: New and have two D9's

Diana Burrow

#3154

I'll keep that mind to secure the end stitches.? In everyone's experience, is it just as hard to find the slide plates as it is bobbins for the D-9's???

Re: New and have two D9's

#3153

Hi David;

Sorry I failed to note in your topic you stated these machines were D-9's. They would have been built in the 1895-1905?era. Mostly I use the same method As John stated to secure seam ends. Occasionally when starting a seam I will hold the mat'l tightly with my left hand so the feed dogs slip, put my first finger of my right hand on a spoke of the handwheel. I have my foot on the treadle & give the handwheel 2 or 3 turns, putting the stitches in the same hole which secures them. My foot has picked up the treadle motion so I begin treadling as I remove my finger from the spokes & "Let-e Rip". This doesn't work so well at the end of the seam as you have no protruding mat'l to hold so I use John's method there.

Miller/TN

Re: New and have two D9's

#3152

Welcome David;

Tell us a bit more about your machines so we will know which model you have. I am going to assume for now it is either a #9 or a D-9. The #9 had a hinged bobbin holder (W&W called it a bobbin drop) With a removable bobbin case while the D-9 had a built in bobbin case with latch finger to secure the bobbin. Serial numbers for the #9 will be 6 digits or less with D-9 SN's being & digits & will start with either a 2 or a 3. I am of the opinion, though unable to prove, that those beginning with a 3 were built under Singer ownership after their buyout of W&W in 1905. Do feel free to ask any question you might have about these machines or make any comments concerning, they are wonderful machines.

Note that during the period of time the W&W was being built there were few if any domestic/family machines being built which had a reverse feed or a back tack. A back tack was later added to some Singer models which were in existence during this period.

My W&W D-9 in a drop head cabinet has an anti reverse in the form of a little wood block which can be swung down to engage the groove in the band wheel to prevent it being turned backwards.

It does take a bit of getting used to when you sometimes switch from machine to machine with the hand wheels turning it opposite directions, but the more you do it the easier it becomes.

Miller/TN

Re: New and have two D9's

#3151

OR, to secure stitches at the ends, ....to begin, sew a few stitches, lift the foot and return the fabric to the beginning point, sewing over the first stitches? to finish, sew to the end, lift the foot and pull the fabric back about 1/4 inch and sew over the stitching.? Eliminates turning the fabric around.
John

Re: New and have two D9's

Diana Burrow

#3150

The opposite wheel action is odd to me also, I have 2 Singers. With the D-9 not going backwards, I guess I could turn my work around and stitch over First stitches to secure the thread.? I'm still in the process of collecting parts. Hopefully I'll be able to sew a project soon

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On Oct 30, 2017 8:34 AM, "Tague, David" <tagued@...> wrote:

One is a treadle and the other was a frozen free machine head.?? They are very similar in that the decals are all gone, they have similar era serial #’s, and both came with exactly one bagel bobbin.

?

I fabricated top tension spring out of a click pen spring, it sews well.?? I wonder if an E string off an octave mandolin set would be whippy and provide a better stitch??? Anyone else make one of these??

?

I also own several Singer machines, the opposite handwheel direction is a little odd for me.

?

Thanks for adding me.

?

Tague

New and have two D9's

#3149

开云体育

One is a treadle and the other was a frozen free machine head.?? They are very similar in that the decals are all gone, they have similar era serial #’s, and both came with exactly one bagel bobbin.

?

I fabricated top tension spring out of a click pen spring, it sews well.?? I wonder if an E string off an octave mandolin set would be whippy and provide a better stitch??? Anyone else make one of these??

?

I also own several Singer machines, the opposite handwheel direction is a little odd for me.

?

Thanks for adding me.

?

Tague

Re: Bagel bobbins

#3148

Hi Diana;

These machines are generally referred to loosely as simply 9W machines. How ever there were sub models listed by the following number. The 9W1 &? 9W7 were the most popular, though the sub? numbers went up through around 9W12. The 1 & 7 were listed as family along with 4 other numbers 2 in both the 1 & 7 series. These were either fitted for a hand attachment or fitted with it. All were listed for Export Only. The others were primarily considered as Tailoring machines, had knee lever for lifting presser foot etc. This info is from a 1908 with handwritten corrections to 1911 Singer/Bridgeport catalog.

Miller/TN??

Re: Bagel bobbins

Diana Burrow

#3147

Good to know!? I didn't know Singer made 9 W1 or 9W7. I just thought that after W&W, Singer called it 9W.?

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On Oct 28, 2017 11:02 AM, "Miller Fulks" <mmf38@...> wrote:

Hi All;
Note that only late 9W7's came with the flat bobbins. 9W1's as well as early 9W7's still used the same bagel bobbin as the W&W D-9.?
9W1 machines still wore W&W decals & fit W&W cabinets. These were made from 1905 to around 1908. The 9W7 was introduced in 1908? was made through 1913. The bed on these was modified to fit Singer cabinetry & they wore Singer decals. I do not know exactly at what point the bobbin change was made but likely only the last couple of ears of production.
Miller/TN

Re: Bagel bobbins

#3146

Hi All;

Note that only late 9W7's came with the flat bobbins. 9W1's as well as early 9W7's still used the same bagel bobbin as the W&W D-9.?

9W1 machines still wore W&W decals & fit W&W cabinets. These were made from 1905 to around 1908. The 9W7 was introduced in 1908? was made through 1913. The bed on these was modified to fit Singer cabinetry & they wore Singer decals. I do not know exactly at what point the bobbin change was made but likely only the last couple of ears of production.

Miller/TN

Re: Intro

#3145

Miller, here are the specs on the #8 needle plate screw...
head diameter? .195"
head thickness?? .050"
lgt under head? .300"
major dia.?? .127"
tpi?? 36
thread size.....5-36?? or 1/8 x 36
good luck finding that one !?
John

Re: Intro

#3144

Wow, thanks! I appreciate the correction! I didn't mean to give bad information!

Best regards,

Hilde

Best

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On Oct 27, 2017 2:13 PM, "Miller Fulks" <miller@...> wrote:

Hi Hilde;
First, the needle plate & throat plate are jus two different names for the same plate, which other screw do you need.I have nt measred the throat pate screw on the #8 so off hand do no kno is actual size, may??be a while before I am able to do so.. The Singer thread is not actually a #6-40 it is? 9/64-40. 9/64 = .1406" while a #6 screw = 0.138". They are so close they will often interchange, though depending upon tolerance the Singer screw will not always enter a #6-40 tapped hole.
Miller/TN

Re: Bagel bobbins

Diana Burrow

#3143

Thank u for your reply!

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On Oct 27, 2017 4:21 PM, <diquilts@...> wrote:

The 9W uses Featherweight bobbins.? The D-9s use bagel bobbins.

Di in TN
TN Treadler - TOGA Tart
"Motor?? I Don't Need No Stinkin' Motor!"

> On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 10:21 PM Diana Burrow <mygranna@...> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know if any other bobbin would fit the Wheeler & Wilson D-9?
>> I saw a picture of the Singer 9W which looks like a flat bobbin with
>> several holes in it.
>>
>>
>

Re: Bagel bobbins

#3142

The 9W uses Featherweight bobbins.  The D-9s use bagel bobbins.

Di in TN
TN Treadler - TOGA Tart
"Motor?  I Don't Need No Stinkin' Motor!"

Show quoted text

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 10:21 PM Diana Burrow <mygranna@...> wrote:

Does anyone know if any other bobbin would fit the Wheeler & Wilson D-9?
I saw a picture of the Singer 9W which looks like a flat bobbin with
several holes in it.