Welcome K;
I love my W&W #8 machine. Well, actually I love all my W&W's but the #8 is sorta special. It was a vast improvement over the older curved needle machines, though they can be enjoyable also. It is the only family machine, of any make, that I am aware of offhand which has the two-groove pulleys allowing for two different speed ratio's to the needle while using the same treadling speed. Also I enjoy watching all the moving parts as opposed to having them hidden away inside the pillar & arm. Its only real drawback is it is small & thus has limited clearance for sewing bulky things. There are some online manuals available for down loading, if you do not have one let me know & I can give you some links. A few very late #8 machines used a different bobbin than the earlier ones. These late ones use the same bobbin which was continued with the #9. The bobbin case has a tension spring mounted to it. The earlier ones, which are in the majority, have a plain case with no built in tension & use a larger diameter but thinner bobbin. Tension control is external to the case via a knurled head thumb screw located underneath the bed at the back side of the bobbin cover plate. In threading one of these it is imperative you place the bobbin with the thread coming from the bottom toward you, so when it is picked up it comes up in front of the bobbin. Put it in backwards & it "Will Not Sew", just don't ask How I Know
Any questions or comments you may have concerning this machine or any other W&W you may have do feel free to chime in. We are here for the sole purpose of sharing info about these great machines. As you have the time be sure & look over the files section, there is a lot of info posted on the various models as well as needles, bobbins etc, some of this I even wrote myself. Photo section is of course always nice to browse through, lots of good pictures of the various machines.
Miller/TN
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Hello!?
Thanks for letting me join your group!
I'm K and I recently got a # 8 treadle. ?It is my oldest machine and my only pre-1900 so far. ?I have a bunch of machines. ?My favorites are the treadles and hand cranks (re-homing most of the electrics). ?I live in southwestern Ohio, and work as an engineering admin. ?Jon (the needle guy) told me on Quilting Board about this group and recommended you.
K
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Re: Another Wheeler and Wilson 8
Thanks Miller..it really is amazing as the machine was completely? frozen when we got it. ? My husband is going to make a top to fit it. (And fit it to some irons we have, not sure what brand they are.) ?Have it now in the cabinet that one of the other 8s came in. Sent from my iPad?
Mary T
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A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy?
enough people to make it worth the effort.
Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)?
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Miller, Again thank you so much for your help and knowledge. Never even thought about stretching the belt prior to attaching it. Live and learn, ?I guess.? Have a great rest of your day?
On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 4:29 PM, Miller Fulks <mmf38@...> wrote: Hi Brenda;
Everything I have seen on belts is "They should be just tight enough to run the machine without slipping". When I install a new leather belt my general practise is to first lay one end on the floor & stand on it. I then pull the belt up behind me & over my shoulder & pull to stretch it as much as possible. I then run the belt around the grooves & through any guides present. I will pull the belt fairly snug & cut off the end without the staple flush with the other end. Then punch the hole for the staple & join (in place of course). This will generally be tight enough to run, but not overly tight. The staple holes are normally about ?" back from the end. After running a while the belt will stretch & begin to slip. When this occurs open one end of the staple, cut the belt off through the hole & repunch & rejoin. You may have to do this again later, but usually after two shortenings it will not stretch any m,ore for a long time.
Miller/TN
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Hi Brenda;
Everything I have seen on belts is "They should be just tight enough to run the machine without slipping". When I install a new leather belt my general practise is to first lay one end on the floor & stand on it. I then pull the belt up behind me & over my shoulder & pull to stretch it as much as possible. I then run the belt around the grooves & through any guides present. I will pull the belt fairly snug & cut off the end without the staple flush with the other end. Then punch the hole for the staple & join (in place of course). This will generally be tight enough to run, but not overly tight. The staple holes are normally about ?" back from the end. After running a while the belt will stretch & begin to slip. When this occurs open one end of the staple, cut the belt off through the hole & repunch & rejoin. You may have to do this again later, but usually after two shortenings it will not stretch any m,ore for a long time.
Miller/TN
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How tight should the belt be then?
On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 1:30 PM, Miller Fulks <mmf38@...> wrote: Hi Brenda;
I suppose you have noticed you have two grooves on both the treadle's bandwheel & the machine's handwheel. The belt should run in the larger groove on one wheel & the smaller groove on the other wheel. If running from the large groove on the bandwheel to the small groove on the machine you get more speed & can thus sew faster. When running from the small bandwheel groove to the larger on the machine you run slower for either more control or more power for thicker, heavier materials. A very worthwhile setup in my opinion & the sizes are calculated so that the same belt can be swapped from side to side with tension that will work for either, doesn't require another belt.
Miller/TN.
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Hi Brenda;
I suppose you have noticed you have two grooves on both the treadle's bandwheel & the machine's handwheel. The belt should run in the larger groove on one wheel & the smaller groove on the other wheel. If running from the large groove on the bandwheel to the small groove on the machine you get more speed & can thus sew faster. When running from the small bandwheel groove to the larger on the machine you run slower for either more control or more power for thicker, heavier materials. A very worthwhile setup in my opinion & the sizes are calculated so that the same belt can be swapped from side to side with tension that will work for either, doesn't require another belt.
Miller/TN.
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Thanks so much, Miller. The dimensions help out so, so much. You said to throw the belt off when winding, that makes sense.? Thank you again?
On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 12:14 PM, Miller Fulks <mmf38@...> wrote: Hi Brenda;
I measured 4 bobbins & the winder spindle for my #8. The bobbins were consistent with a hole diameter through the hub of .232". The part of the spindle the bobbin fits on for winding is tapered. with the outer end being about .220" & the inner end going up to about .250" over a length of about 5/8" (.625").? You simply push the bobbin on until it is tight, there is no groove inside the hole to engage or no pin to engage the side of the bobbin, it is simply friction driven from the fit on the spindle.
The freer it turns the better, you do not want any drag on the winder. My winder has an over center cam which operates against a flat spring. It turns down for winding & up when not in use. The winder tire engages the flat on the bandwheel on the side next to the iron's leg. Wheel is of course outside the leg. You just throw the belt off in order not to run the machine while winding, there is no other release.
Miller/TN?
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Hi Brenda;
I measured 4 bobbins & the winder spindle for my #8. The bobbins were consistent with a hole diameter through the hub of .232". The part of the spindle the bobbin fits on for winding is tapered. with the outer end being about .220" & the inner end going up to about .250" over a length of about 5/8" (.625"). You simply push the bobbin on until it is tight, there is no groove inside the hole to engage or no pin to engage the side of the bobbin, it is simply friction driven from the fit on the spindle.
The freer it turns the better, you do not want any drag on the winder. My winder has an over center cam which operates against a flat spring. It turns down for winding & up when not in use. The winder tire engages the flat on the bandwheel on the side next to the iron's leg. Wheel is of course outside the leg. You just throw the belt off in order not to run the machine while winding, there is no other release.
Miller/TN
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I have a #8 treadle. The bobbin winder is missing and in the process of fabricating a new one. My question is, does the spindle spin freely and how snug shold the bobbin be on the spindle? It's suppose to attach to the irons underneath. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.?
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Re: Another Wheeler and Wilson 8
Mary;
That old #8 is cleaning up right nice & appears to be making a good stitch, well done.
Miller/TN
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Re: Another Wheeler and Wilson 8
I uploaded a couple short videos of this machine sewing and new pictures of it cleaned. https://www.flickr.com/photos/mmaryts/sets/72157683817458804 Sent from my iPad?
Mary T
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A positive attitu de may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy?
enough people to make it worth the effort.
Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)?
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Re: Another Wheeler and Wilson 8
Thanks much, Miller! ?Always appreciate all your information and especially
telling me where Steve's pictures were. ?I missed them when I was looking thru
the albums. ? Don't think my machine will clean up as nicely as Steve's.
But I will still love it. ?Have the plate cleaned up
enough so far to read it. ?It does indeed mention J A House
with the same patent dates. ?Not completely sure about SN ?yet.
Uploaded a couple pictures of the plate to link below
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Am eager to get this machine cleaned enough to test sew.
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Thanks again...
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Sent from my iPad?
Mary T
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A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy?
enough people to make it worth the effort.
Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)?
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Thank you for adding me to this group. My name is Connie and I am a sewing machine addict! I have 60+ machines and three of them are Wheeler and Wilson. I live in the Pacific Northwest in the small town of Castle Rock. I've been collecting for 35 years. I have a W&W #3 head only (for parts), another #3 in the cabinet and a newly acquired #8 in a cabinet.?
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Hi: Thanks for adding me to your group. I have a No. 9 ?with serial number 159980. This is the smoothest treadle I have ever owned. When I'm not sewing or bringing home "new" machines, I'm gardening or hiking and taking bad photographs of the amazing views in Western North Carolina.
Pat
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Re: Another Wheeler and Wilson 8
Hi Mary;
What you have is a very early #8. I have never seen one of these in person but have seen pictures of a few others. As a matter of fact Steve H has pictures of his in our photo album, page 6, Steveh's Early #8. He shows a good picture of the right slide plate with SN showing of 2269 as well as it says patented by J A House. with three patent dates from 1870 through 1873.
Glad to here it is cleaning up nicely, would be interested in knowing its SN when you get the plate cleaned up enough to read it. Also if it references J A House. Later #8 machines only have patent dates marked but do not reference Mr house. As you noted there are a number of differences in these early #8's & the later ones.
Miller/TN
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Re: Another Wheeler and Wilson 8
Forgot to say it's starting to clean up nicely. ?Pictures are before any cleaning at all. Sent from my iPad?
Mary T
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A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy?
enough people to make it worth the effort.
Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)?
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Another Wheeler and Wilson 8
i somehow now have another Wheeler and Wilson 8. This one is only the head. ?But it is different than my other two. ?The pressure bar is in the back of machine. Stitch lever is underneath. ? The top tension thingy on top is smaller. ? The inside workings, gears or whatever they are are different. link to pictures.. Sent from my iPad?
Mary T
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A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy?
enough people to make it worth the effort.
Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)?
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Thanks for letting me join.? I have an inherited Wheeler and Wilson # 9 treadle which belonged to my grandmother.? She came from the Kansas City area to Texas when she was in her 70¡¯s bringing her machine with her.? I remember her sewing
on it in the late 60¡¯s and early 70¡¯s.? The machine was gifted to my cousin in Kansas upon grandma¡¯s passing in 1971 and spent the last 35+ years in his basement.? He recently passed away and the sewing machine found its way back to me in Texas last year!?
I have it in the shop now and the technician says it is purring like a kitten but the dilemma is finding appropriate needles.? I¡¯ve been in some e-mail conversation regarding the proper size needle but cannot seem to find the needles on line.? Nice to ¡°meet¡±
everyone.
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JENNIFER PADDEN? |??
Admissions Officer? |?
Graduate & International Admissions Center?
The University of Texas at Austin?
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P. O. Box 7608? |?
Austin, TX 78713?
Walter Webb Hall?
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?405 W 25th
St? |? Austin, TX 78705? |?
512-475-7495
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Stephen;
I will say that I believe W&W exported the vast majority of their hand machines. Probably one could have been ordered here in the US but few seem to have been so done. Most of the W&W hand machines available in the US today seem to be "Bring Backs" primarily from the UK. They thus seem to always ask a Premium for them here.
As I recall I had to give US $101.00 for my D-9 hand & US $150.00 for the #9. Neither had accesories but both did have the cases with covers. I have yet to find a #8 which I am able to afford.
I do live in a sector of the US where Hand Crank machines seem to be virtually unknown except to the few collectors around. Most other people seem to not be aware of their existence. Their Ancestors all used Treadles. Older treadles, especially Singers are in an abundance & can often be picked up rather inexpensively, but not so the hand machines.
There may be other areas of the country where the hand machines were more widely used but I don't believe the W&W's were common anywhere in this country. There were probably quite a few sent North to Canada & some of these may have migrated back South but they are just not in abundance here.
Miller
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Treadle&Gears
Mary T
Padden, Jennifer R