Re: Thrilled with my new WW 9
I didn't know that W&W made chain stitch attachments. Do you have pics??
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Thrilled with my new WW 9
I found a WW 9 treadle with really nice decals, serial number 308992. The irons are marked Wheeler Wilson, none of my other 5 WW irons are marked. I bought it from the original owners great grandson. He said they married in 1888 and she got the machine soon after. It hasn't been used or cleaned in years. I have it cleaned & sewing again. The 2 drawers were full of old buttons & attachments. Two of the attachments were the chain stitch needle plate & the chain stitch bobbin cover. ? Sandra in Texas
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Re: Wheeler and Wilson #8 hand crank
Hi Deb;
Excellent advice there from Bill. I will just add the following. I do not have specific instructions for the W&W machines. However several makes recommend the needle Rise for 2.4mm or 3/32" depending upon the standard you use, At that point of rise the point of the hook should center on the needle & be in the scarf area. Do keep in mind the #8 threads right to left as do the 9's. On the #8's with external bobbin tension (no spring on the case) the thread "MUST" come off the bottom of the bobbin toward you in loading the bobbin so it pulls up in front of the bobbin. Turn it around & it will not sew, just don't ask me how I know.
Miller/TN
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Re: Wheeler and Wilson #8 hand crank
Hi Deb. I'll try my best to walk you through it. First, remove the thread, the bobbin and the needle so it doesn't get bent. Next, loosen the screw that holds the bobbin holder and remove the bobbin holder. This allows for an unobstructed view of the rotating hook. Next, lay the sewing machine back on it's side and locate the two set screws on the first fitting to the right of the rotating hook beside the black casting that holds the bobbin holder. These two set screws hold the shaft that is attached to the rotating hook. Once loosened, you should be able to turn the the hook back and forth. If you find that it is still stuck, say with age, or dried oil, etc., you must do what you can to free it up so it turns because this is how you set the timing. Once lose, raise the needle bar and replace the needle. With your left hand, rotate the hook so it is just under the needle hole and then hold it from turning and lower the needle bar by turning the hand wheel with you right hand. Lower it all the way. Now, continue to turn the hand wheel so the needle comes up ever so slightly and stop. Now, adjust the rotating hook by turning it so the end of the hook just comes up to the needle and then re-tighten the set screws. Your machine should now be timed. You can go back and and adjust things ever so slightly after if you need too, but this should work now.
Good luck, Bill.
On Sunday, April 30, 2017 4:49 PM, Deb via Groups.Io <brookstonegsp2@...> wrote:
I acquired a #8 hand crank missing plates, a needle bar etc. I have found these pieces and have the machine back together, ?only to find the timing is truly off. I can watch the needle come down late behind the hook and brush against the u of the hook as the needle comes up. I need to know where to start in figuring out how to fix this. I am not ready to give up on this machine.
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Wheeler and Wilson #8 hand crank
I acquired a #8 hand crank missing plates, a needle bar etc. I have found these pieces and have the machine back together, ?only to find the timing is truly off. I can watch the needle come down late behind the hook and brush against the u of the hook as the needle comes up. I need to know where to start in figuring out how to fix this. I am not ready to give up on this machine.
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I have a 12, but it's bobbin assembly looks like a d9.
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D;
Thanks for the link, several manuals there. Some other sites which have down loadable manuals are;
The Smithsonian, ISMACS, needlebar & Singer.
Singer has free manuals for a number of their older machines while newer ones have a fee. The other sites mentioned are all free.
Miller/TN
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Just found this site with manuals for d9, #8, curved needle, Davis, Willcox & Gibbs, Eldredge 2 spool etc.? https://www.woodlandquiltworks.com/services/lessons-traning-manuals/training-manuals/
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David; Glad I could help you get it back together. Taking pictures & labeling parts is certainly a good idea.? I do have to admit though it is something I totally ignore. I normally just take them apart & drop all the parts in some sort of container & then start fishing them out when it goes back together.? Most difficult time I ever had with one was my first Davis Vertical Feed machine. I bought it as a "Parts" machine at a parts machine price. The person I had acquired it from had taken it apart & then didn't know how to get it back together, so he just boxed up the parts & sold them. He said he was quite sure all the parts were there. I guess he was right as I used everything & didn't seem to be missing anything or have any left overs. Miller//TN
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Gotcha. Thanks, that did the job. I should take pictures before disassembly or be more alert when working on mechanical things!
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David; Here is a link to pictures from needlebar showing the two types of feed used on these machines. As you can see the springs, while not identical, are located similarly on both types. This feed return spring & the presser foot spring are to the best of my recollection the only two springs on these machines.
Miller/TN
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Anybody got a link to an Exploded Diagram for a #3 ? (or by extension any curved needle machine) I gotta extra coil spring left over after having the feed dogs out....and cloth wont feed thru now. I'm certain this spring has to do with it because it worked prior to cleaning. Thanks! ? David O.?
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Thank you Miller & please don't do anything painful on my account. I'm not in any hurry.
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On Friday, March 24, 2017, Miller Fulks < mmf38@...> wrote: D; I do not have any experience with a 301. However it does use the same bobbin & case ?as the 221 (FW). There is a sliding latch just inside the case which locks into a groove around the stud the bobbin fits over. Raising the outer latch slides this inner latch over out of contact with the stud allowing the case to be lifted out. As I see it there are two possibilities for your problem. One is that the case is simply stuck by the rust & not lifting out. In this case continue applying the penetrat, apply some heat, a heat gun or hair dryer works well for this & also tap on it a bit to set up vibrations which helps the penetrant go deeper. It should eventually pop free.? 2nd possibility is the connection to the inner latch is broken so the outer latch is not disengaging it. If this appears to be the case we will have to determine how to get the inner latch to release. For the last couple of days I have been suffering from a severe case of gout in one hand. I don't think I can manage getting our FW out to look at the case top help. Maybe in a couple more days it will begin to clear up. In the meantime see if ?you can determine for sure which is your problem, & if anyone has had a similar situation do feel free to jump in.? The 301 machines were all made in Singer's plant in Anderson SC. They were the first machine to use the slant needle. They are aluminum bodied, have all metal gearing & an internal motor. They are in fact a rather nice machine, not much heavier than a FW, but larger, more powerful & much more versatile. Miller/TN ?
On Thursday, March 23, 2017 9:32 PM, D Page <D7artist@...> wrote:
This is a bit off subject, but I am pretty new to machine repair. I received a singer 301 fixer-upper yesterday & can't get the bobbin case out. I have been able to free up the rest of the machine with penetrating oil, but there is some rust on the case & lifting the latch doesn't seem to have any effect. The hook seems to move adequately. Can anyone tell me what to do next? Thanks in advance.
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D; I do not have any experience with a 301. However it does use the same bobbin & case ?as the 221 (FW). There is a sliding latch just inside the case which locks into a groove around the stud the bobbin fits over. Raising the outer latch slides this inner latch over out of contact with the stud allowing the case to be lifted out. As I see it there are two possibilities for your problem. One is that the case is simply stuck by the rust & not lifting out. In this case continue applying the penetrat, apply some heat, a heat gun or hair dryer works well for this & also tap on it a bit to set up vibrations which helps the penetrant go deeper. It should eventually pop free.? 2nd possibility is the connection to the inner latch is broken so the outer latch is not disengaging it. If this appears to be the case we will have to determine how to get the inner latch to release. For the last couple of days I have been suffering from a severe case of gout in one hand. I don't think I can manage getting our FW out to look at the case top help. Maybe in a couple more days it will begin to clear up. In the meantime see if ?you can determine for sure which is your problem, & if anyone has had a similar situation do feel free to jump in.? The 301 machines were all made in Singer's plant in Anderson SC. They were the first machine to use the slant needle. They are aluminum bodied, have all metal gearing & an internal motor. They are in fact a rather nice machine, not much heavier than a FW, but larger, more powerful & much more versatile. Miller/TN ?
On Thursday, March 23, 2017 9:32 PM, D Page <D7artist@...> wrote:
This is a bit off subject, but I am pretty new to machine repair. I received a singer 301 fixer-upper yesterday & can't get the bobbin case out. I have been able to free up the rest of the machine with penetrating oil, but there is some rust on the case & lifting the latch doesn't seem to have any effect. The hook seems to move adequately. Can anyone tell me what to do next? Thanks in advance.
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This is a bit off subject, but I am pretty new to machine repair. I received a singer 301 fixer-upper yesterday & can't get the bobbin case out. I have been able to free up the rest of the machine with penetrating oil, but there is some rust on the case & lifting the latch doesn't seem to have any effect. The hook seems to move adequately. Can anyone tell me what to do next? Thanks in advance.
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Nice looking machine. One simply cannot tell for certain if it's a D-9 or a 9W1. There is really no difference in the two other than SN & the 9W1 has some Singer part numbers. I am way down here in TN so outside my range as well. Miller/TN
On Thursday, March 23, 2017 12:29 AM, D Page <D7artist@...> wrote:
If anyone's interested, I saw a 9w or d9 on eBay that would clean up nice. It's local pickup in NY,NY. $69 starting bid. Decals are mostly intact, 5 drawer treadle cabinet, accessories in a case. I'd bid if I were in the area, but I'm in Missouri.?http://m.ebay.com/itm/112343011192
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If anyone's interested, I saw a 9w or d9 on eBay that would clean up nice. It's local pickup in NY,NY. $69 starting bid. Decals are mostly intact, 5 drawer treadle cabinet, accessories in a case. I'd bid if I were in the area, but I'm in Missouri.?http://m.ebay.com/itm/112343011192
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Re: Photo library of glass presse r foot inserts
ty for posting this blog site... that lady has her act together.
my no 8 is like that and i love it
judy in so cal
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Re: Photo library of glass presser foot inserts
Even better photos in the recent eBay listing: Becky
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Re: Photo library of glass presser foot inserts
There is a photo of them here: From this blog: Becky
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Sandra Scott
Deb
Becky L