Breenda; Where was that piece of wire with the "Pigtail" curl in it just to the left of the felt washer. Don't recall ever seeing one of those in a tension assembly. The domed end of that washer with the bar should fit up inside the large end of the spring. The flat side goes against the felt. As far as I am aware all D-9 machines had the automatic tension release. SN's for the D-9's seem to have started no less than 2,200,00. My early handcrank is # 2,276,882. The thread comes off the bobbin in opposite direction ?of any other D-9 I have ever seen but it has the auto-tension release as did most of the still earlier #9 machines. I have a #9 @ # 21,041 which does not & from examination never did. It also has a straight spool pin rather than the inverted U & bobbin case does not have a locating finger like the very late #8 bobbin cases. These are interesting machines with a lot of minor variations over their production life. Miller/TN ?
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We took the face plate off and discovered there is a pin that goes down in where the tension bar is divided which the pressure bar will push out to release the tension. Looks as if it is worn down so we see if we can improvise with a finishing nail.
There is also a short section of a spring that is sideways which hooks in a hole in the pressure foot bar, but haven't puzzled out what it does.?
Brenda
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On Aug 22, 2016, at 8:43 AM, Brenda Stultz < bjstultz99@...> wrote: I have discovered mine does not release the tension so perhaps it is an earlier one. Serial number 2466872.
I am also having trouble changing the stitch length which may be a Meyer of more oil neede.
Brenda
Brenda
Sent from my iPad On Aug 22, 2016, at 7:03 AM, Miller Fulks < mmf38@...> wrote: It has been noted on some W&W machines that when the presserbar is raised to the position where it rests the tension is not released. To release the tension it is required to raise the lifting lever a bit higher & hold it while pulling out the mat'l. ?I do not know how prevalent this is but have noted it on an early D-9 handcrank ?I have. Actually after getting used to it I kinda like it this way. Up through the #8 & into the very early #9 there was no built in tension release, neither automatic nor manual. This also is not as bad as it first seems as one soon learns how to manipulate it. Miller/TN
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I have discovered mine does not release the tension so perhaps it is an earlier one. Serial number 2466872.
I am also having trouble changing the stitch length which may be a Meyer of more oil neede.
Brenda
Brenda
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On Aug 22, 2016, at 7:03 AM, Miller Fulks < mmf38@...> wrote: It has been noted on some W&W machines that when the presserbar is raised to the position where it rests the tension is not released. To release the tension it is required to raise the lifting lever a bit higher & hold it while pulling out the mat'l. ?I do not know how prevalent this is but have noted it on an early D-9 handcrank ?I have. Actually after getting used to it I kinda like it this way. Up through the #8 & into the very early #9 there was no built in tension release, neither automatic nor manual. This also is not as bad as it first seems as one soon learns how to manipulate it. Miller/TN
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Thanks. I?put my picture in the picture files when I saw it didn't come thru in the post. So the??spring should follow the bar with the little washer under it against the felt. Mine is the opposite with the little washer going inside the spring which seemed odd.? I will swap them and see what that does. I wonder if I need more tension on the bobbin instead of less on the top thread but am nervous about changing the bobbin tension.
Brenda
On Sunday, August 21, 2016, Miller Fulks < miller@...> wrote: Brenda; I did not find an attached picture. However here is what should be in the tension assembly of a D-9, actually any no 9. First on the spindle back against the head is a felt washer. Next on is the tension wheel/pulley. Next another felt washer followed by a cupped steel washer with bar across center. This washer goes on with the dome of the cup out with bar in the slot in spindle. The large end of the spring goes on next & will fit the flat area of the washer with the domed part inside the spring. Then the tension nut is last. This washer has serrations on the flat rim which fits against the felt. The two felt washers should remain stationary with the wheel spinning inside them as thread is pulled. The bar on the washer is pushed against by a pin when the presser foot is raised to release the tension. Mine runs with the tension nut just about even with the end of the spindle to just a bit of the spindle extending out from the nut. I don't think you can post pictures to the forum. If still needed you can load it into the photo section or you can email it directly to me. I would be happy to look at it either way. Miller/TN?
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It has been noted on some W&W machines that when the presserbar is raised to the position where it rests the tension is not released. To release the tension it is required to raise the lifting lever a bit higher & hold it while pulling out the mat'l. ?I do not know how prevalent this is but have noted it on an early D-9 handcrank ?I have. Actually after getting used to it I kinda like it this way. Up through the #8 & into the very early #9 there was no built in tension release, neither automatic nor manual. This also is not as bad as it first seems as one soon learns how to manipulate it. Miller/TN
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Thank you Brenda and Miller. I just bough a no9 in the 60,000 range and my tension assembly was installed incorrectly. Raising the presser foot lifter would not release the tension. Fixed now though! The steel washer was against the nut. --
Anthony from N. California
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Brenda; I did not find an attached picture. However here is what should be in the tension assembly of a D-9, actually any no 9. First on the spindle back against the head is a felt washer. Next on is the tension wheel/pulley. Next another felt washer followed by a cupped steel washer with bar across center. This washer goes on with the dome of the cup out with bar in the slot in spindle. The large end of the spring goes on next & will fit the flat area of the washer with the domed part inside the spring. Then the tension nut is last. This washer has serrations on the flat rim which fits against the felt. The two felt washers should remain stationary with the wheel spinning inside them as thread is pulled. The bar on the washer is pushed against by a pin when the presser foot is raised to release the tension. Mine runs with the tension nut just about even with the end of the spindle to just a bit of the spindle extending out from the nut. I don't think you can post pictures to the forum. If still needed you can load it into the photo section or you can email it directly to me. I would be happy to look at it either way. Miller/TN?
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 On Sunday, August 21, 2016, Brenda Stultz < bjstultz99@...> wrote: The top tension on my new D9 is too tIght unless I have the adjustment screw almost off the spindle so I took it apart to clean in case that was the problem. There is a small flat disk inside the spring which doesn't seem to do anything so I wonder if it has been put together wrong. I have attached a picture of the parts laid out the way they came off the machine. Let me know if something looks awry.
Brenda
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The top tension on my new D9 is too tIght unless I have the adjustment screw almost off the spindle so I took it apart to clean in case that was the problem. There is a small flat disk inside the spring which doesn't seem to do anything so I wonder if it has been put together wrong. I have attached a picture of the parts laid out the way they came off the machine. Let me know if something looks awry. Brenda
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Hi All; I have posted a scan of an original W&W #9 manual to the files section. It will be found in a folder of that name. I had merged all the files into a single PDF file. When I went to post it it occurred to me it might actually be best to post the individual scans as PDF's. This will allow you if you desire to print it out to pairing up the pages & by printing to both sides it can be arranged in book form as was the original. Miller/TN
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Carol; Yes photos can be posted. As to the 9's there is the #9 & the D-9. The primary difference is in the bobbin arrangement. The #9 is the earlier of the two. It has a hinged bobbin holder & the case is removed in changing bobbins. The D-9 has a built in bobbin case with a latch finger which is swung out to change bobbins. Both models have a decal on the pillar which is an intertwined W&W over a 9. The #9 will have on the right slide plate no more than a 6 digit serial number with a last patent date no later than March 25, 1890.If it is a real early one it could have a 5 digit or less SN & last patent date of Aug 27, 1878. The D-9 will have D-9 stamped into the right plate, have a last patent of Aug ?2, 1892 with a 7-digit SN. This SN will begin with a 2 or 3. If 3 it is a very late machine & while I have been unable to prove it thus far I believe it would have been built under Singer ownership from 1905-1908. There is already a manual for the D-9 machines in the file section. I am preparing a manual for placing there for the #9.? Miller/TN ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?? ?
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Can photos be posted on here?
I don't know which one that I have. I know that it's a number 9 and it's a treadle. I don't know how to tell the difference between the different nines.
Carol of northwestern California.
On Aug 15, 2016 5:46 PM, "Miller Fulks" < miller@...> wrote: Anthony; I have just scanned in an original & e-mailed a copy to a fellow sewing machine enthusiast from NC. She had recently acquired a #9 treadle & had only a D-9 manual. I talked with her personally at the recent TN TOGA , It was a really nice #9 with a 5 digit SN in the 6x,xxx range as I recall. Will try & get this manual in the files section within the next day or so. Miller/TN
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I don't know which one that I have. I know that it's a number 9 and it's a treadle. I don't know how to tell the difference between the different nines.
Carol of northwestern California.
On Aug 15, 2016 5:46 PM, "Miller Fulks" < miller@...> wrote:
Anthony; I have just scanned in an original & e-mailed a copy to a fellow sewing machine enthusiast from NC. She had recently acquired a #9 treadle & had only a D-9 manual. I talked with her personally at the recent TN TOGA , It was a really nice #9 with a 5 digit SN in the 6x,xxx range as I recall. Will try & get this manual in the files section within the next day or so. Miller/TN
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Thank you Miller. I look forward to it! Hopefully it will help someone else in the future as well.
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Anthony from N. California
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Anthony; I have just scanned in an original & e-mailed a copy to a fellow sewing machine enthusiast from NC. She had recently acquired a #9 treadle & had only a D-9 manual. I talked with her personally at the recent TN TOGA , It was a really nice #9 with a 5 digit SN in the 6x,xxx range as I recall. Will try & get this manual in the files section within the next day or so. Miller/TN
On Mon, Aug 15, 2016 at 12:52 PM, A.V.S. <anthonysalazarjr@...> wrote: Would anyone be in the position to post in the files section a scanned No9 manual? We have several copies of the D9 manual, but none what-so-ever for the No9. I suppose the No8 manual would suffice for basic information, but it would be nice to have the No9 as well.
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Anthony from N. California
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Would anyone be in the position to post in the files section a scanned No9 manual? We have several copies of the D9 manual, but none what-so-ever for the No9. I suppose the No8 manual would suffice for basic information, but it would be nice to have the No9 as well.
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Anthony from N. California
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Re: Embroidering on the No9 and D9
I uploaded the trading cards in "Anthonys Album" if anyone is interested.
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Anthony from N. California
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Re: Puzzling tension discs.
Thank you Miller,? I will try the spring from my spares machine, although they look the same. I think it may be that the bobbin tension is too loose and I am having to over-compensate with the upper tension. I'll try a little Plus ?Gas on the bobbin tension screw and see if I can get it to move.
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Re: D9 Hand Machine Stud adjustment
Ill try and post pictures of the screw and stud I am referring to, when I re-do my album today. Ill try adjusting it just right, so its not have too much slack like you said. Ill clean out the cap and reapply a little grease within the week as well. Thanks for the help.
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Anthony from N. California
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Re: D9 Hand Machine Stud adjustment
Anthony; I will have to take a look at my handcranks later to see what you are speaking of. My D-9 has a pillar mounted crank with the crank wheel having internal gears. I do not recall it having an adjustment for mesh. My #9 has a free standing crank assembly with three external tooth gears. From your question it sounds as if this is the type crank you have. I assume the adjustable one is the middle idler/reverse gear. I can't recall now if I have adjusted it or not. Generally speaking gears can run with either oil or grease. As grease has better "Cling-a-Bility" I prefer grease myself on open gearing. Though I never seen them on a handcrank, or sewing machines for that matter, some gears are built to run in an oil bath so they have a constant supply of oil.? When gears are adjustable it is best to keep the backlash at a minimum. They will then both have better life & be less noisy. Obviously they should not be set so tight as to cause hard running, but there should not be much slack in the teeth either.? Hope this answers your question. Miller/TN
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