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Oil pan replacement

 

Any tips on Do and Don't?
Also, does the damper need to be changed at the same ?

The reason for replacement is striped out oil plug threads.
Once the new pan is installed, I plan on replacing the stock plug
with a Stalbus drain system.

My only other thought was to remove the pan, put a permanent bolt in
the drain hole, then tap a new drain hole in the bottom of the pan. Does that
alternative seem doable?

?David?
Lakes Area
Oakland County , MI
2000-W

"Create the sequence of goodness, and the
consequences will always be good."
 

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David,
I had the same problem a few years ago. Stripped thread on the oil drain. After trying a few fixed such as retread etc I gave up, bit the bullet and renewed the pan, had it powder coated on the outside only and fixed with a Stalbus drain - wonderful!? About 20000 miles and 3 oil changes since fixing with no problem

The only real problem is that a new pan is uncoated aluminium and cleaning the old gasket faces and bottom gunge. I am not a trained mechanic and just followed the manual on replacing the pan and made special attention at keeping everything clean. Make sure you keep a record of which bolt goes where and follow the order of torquing them up - with a correctly set torque wrench

The attached photo shows from inside the pan that there is only two or three full threads holding the drain plug and so no wonder it is very easy to the strip this thread but more particularly makes it very difficult, if not impossible to insert a new thread coil.

Keith 1999 W650 UK

On 13/04/2021 20:49, dvdberman via groups.io wrote:

Any tips on Do and Don't?
Also, does the damper need to be changed at the same ?

The reason for replacement is striped out oil plug threads.
Once the new pan is installed, I plan on replacing the stock plug
with a Stalbus drain system.

My only other thought was to remove the pan, put a permanent bolt in
the drain hole, then tap a new drain hole in the bottom of the pan. Does that
alternative seem doable?

?David?
Lakes Area
Oakland County , MI
2000-W

"Create the sequence of goodness, and the
consequences will always be good."


Oil Sump Drain.jpg

 

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What are you referring to when you say 'damper'?

Keith

On 13/04/2021 20:49, dvdberman via groups.io wrote:

Any tips on Do and Don't?
Also, does the damper need to be changed at the same ?

The reason for replacement is striped out oil plug threads.
Once the new pan is installed, I plan on replacing the stock plug
with a Stalbus drain system.

My only other thought was to remove the pan, put a permanent bolt in
the drain hole, then tap a new drain hole in the bottom of the pan. Does that
alternative seem doable?

?David?
Lakes Area
Oakland County , MI
2000-W

"Create the sequence of goodness, and the
consequences will always be good."
 

开云体育

David,

I am not a motor mechanic but I replaced the oil pan on my 1999 W a few years ago. I took on this task after realising that the oil drain thread had been stripped by an over zealous real mechanic. On removing the pan and looking at the thread from the inside it was no wonder. I tried two different re-threading solutions but neither worked because of the lack of threads and material on one side. I posted a photo on the group site. The pan its self is rather thin material and therefore redrilling and fitting a new drain, I would suggest, is not a viable solution.

I do not have a bike lift or any fancy tools but following the W650 Manual I managed the removal with no difficulty without removing the Exhaust pipes. Just make sure you clean the are and lay the bolts out so that they are replaced in the same location. When I had obtained the new pan it was plain uncoated aluminium and so I decided to get it Powder Coated. Replacing the pan was no problem although I would emphasise that cleanliness and applying a new seal and sealant with care are important. One other thing is to take note of the position on the Oil Breather tube a the rear end. Then using a non-permanent locking agent, torque the bolts as indicated in the manual. It is also useful to have a comfortable seat and pot of tea available for some relaxation between processes as it is not a job that should be rushed.

Keith

On 13/04/2021 20:49, dvdberman via groups.io wrote:

Any tips on Do and Don't?
Also, does the damper need to be changed at the same ?

The reason for replacement is striped out oil plug threads.
Once the new pan is installed, I plan on replacing the stock plug
with a Stalbus drain system.

My only other thought was to remove the pan, put a permanent bolt in
the drain hole, then tap a new drain hole in the bottom of the pan. Does that
alternative seem doable?

?David?
Lakes Area
Oakland County , MI
2000-W
Bob Lombardi
 

One time I made a modified drain plug for a Honda 150 I acquired in a deal for another bike.?? Someone had
overtightened the original plug and stripped the threads in the engine case.

My fix was to take the old plug out and drill a new hole in it in the center.?? The hole was sized for a tapered pipe plug.?? I tapped the hole for the pipe plug. ? The tapered pipe plug now became my new drain plug.
The stripped plug was epoxied into the old drain hole with JB Weld.?? Epoxy will withstand the heat and the oil.?? I once actually epoxied a chunk of engine case in a Honda 90 that had thrown a chain and took out some of the engine case.
The epoxied piece of engine case held up even with the hot oil sitting on it.?? I sold the bike that way after driving it around for a couple of months.

Just make sure you clean well around the parts you are sticking together.??
Of course you end up with a modified smaller drain,? so the oil doesn't come out as fast with you change the oil,? but it's a cheap fix and it doesn't cost much to do it.?? You'll be riding the next day.

My 2 cents on the powdercoat idea is that the oil pan radiates heat from the oil.?? Personally,? I would not add any heat barrier to the outside of the pan.?? Maybe the powder coat doesn't change this too much,? I don't know.?? Just saying my preference would be to wire brush it instead and not coat it.

Bob

On Saturday, June 4, 2022 at 09:08:44 AM PDT, Rev <keith.kkr@...> wrote:


David,

I am not a motor mechanic but I replaced the oil pan on my 1999 W a few years ago. I took on this task after realising that the oil drain thread had been stripped by an over zealous real mechanic. On removing the pan and looking at the thread from the inside it was no wonder. I tried two different re-threading solutions but neither worked because of the lack of threads and material on one side. I posted a photo on the group site. The pan its self is rather thin material and therefore redrilling and fitting a new drain, I would suggest, is not a viable solution.

I do not have a bike lift or any fancy tools but following the W650 Manual I managed the removal with no difficulty without removing the Exhaust pipes. Just make sure you clean the are and lay the bolts out so that they are replaced in the same location. When I had obtained the new pan it was plain uncoated aluminium and so I decided to get it Powder Coated. Replacing the pan was no problem although I would emphasise that cleanliness and applying a new seal and sealant with care are important. One other thing is to take note of the position on the Oil Breather tube a the rear end. Then using a non-permanent locking agent, torque the bolts as indicated in the manual. It is also useful to have a comfortable seat and pot of tea available for some relaxation between processes as it is not a job that should be rushed.

Keith

On 13/04/2021 20:49, dvdberman via groups.io wrote:

Any tips on Do and Don't?
Also, does the damper need to be changed at the same ?

The reason for replacement is striped out oil plug threads.
Once the new pan is installed, I plan on replacing the stock plug
with a Stalbus drain system.

My only other thought was to remove the pan, put a permanent bolt in
the drain hole, then tap a new drain hole in the bottom of the pan. Does that
alternative seem doable?

?David?
Lakes Area
Oakland County , MI
2000-W
 

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The other option … find a machinist who can weld the crap out of it , then cut new threads. Not easy in this digital/virtual/snowflake day and age but not impossible. ?


On Jun 4, 2022, at 16:46, Bob Lombardi <chiplom@...> wrote:

?
One time I made a modified drain plug for a Honda 150 I acquired in a deal for another bike.?? Someone had
overtightened the original plug and stripped the threads in the engine case.

My fix was to take the old plug out and drill a new hole in it in the center.?? The hole was sized for a tapered pipe plug.?? I tapped the hole for the pipe plug. ? The tapered pipe plug now became my new drain plug.
The stripped plug was epoxied into the old drain hole with JB Weld.?? Epoxy will withstand the heat and the oil.?? I once actually epoxied a chunk of engine case in a Honda 90 that had thrown a chain and took out some of the engine case.
The epoxied piece of engine case held up even with the hot oil sitting on it.?? I sold the bike that way after driving it around for a couple of months.

Just make sure you clean well around the parts you are sticking together.??
Of course you end up with a modified smaller drain,? so the oil doesn't come out as fast with you change the oil,? but it's a cheap fix and it doesn't cost much to do it.?? You'll be riding the next day.

My 2 cents on the powdercoat idea is that the oil pan radiates heat from the oil.?? Personally,? I would not add any heat barrier to the outside of the pan.?? Maybe the powder coat doesn't change this too much,? I don't know.?? Just saying my preference would be to wire brush it instead and not coat it.

Bob

On Saturday, June 4, 2022 at 09:08:44 AM PDT, Rev <keith.kkr@...> wrote:


David,

I am not a motor mechanic but I replaced the oil pan on my 1999 W a few years ago. I took on this task after realising that the oil drain thread had been stripped by an over zealous real mechanic. On removing the pan and looking at the thread from the inside it was no wonder. I tried two different re-threading solutions but neither worked because of the lack of threads and material on one side. I posted a photo on the group site. The pan its self is rather thin material and therefore redrilling and fitting a new drain, I would suggest, is not a viable solution.

I do not have a bike lift or any fancy tools but following the W650 Manual I managed the removal with no difficulty without removing the Exhaust pipes. Just make sure you clean the are and lay the bolts out so that they are replaced in the same location. When I had obtained the new pan it was plain uncoated aluminium and so I decided to get it Powder Coated. Replacing the pan was no problem although I would emphasise that cleanliness and applying a new seal and sealant with care are important. One other thing is to take note of the position on the Oil Breather tube a the rear end. Then using a non-permanent locking agent, torque the bolts as indicated in the manual. It is also useful to have a comfortable seat and pot of tea available for some relaxation between processes as it is not a job that should be rushed.

Keith

On 13/04/2021 20:49, dvdberman via groups.io wrote:
Any tips on Do and Don't?
Also, does the damper need to be changed at the same ?

The reason for replacement is striped out oil plug threads.
Once the new pan is installed, I plan on replacing the stock plug
with a Stalbus drain system.

My only other thought was to remove the pan, put a permanent bolt in
the drain hole, then tap a new drain hole in the bottom of the pan. Does that
alternative seem doable?

?David?
Lakes Area
Oakland County , MI
2000-W
 

Interesting -and useful!
As someone who's viewed the oil pan 'from the inside', would you think it would be viable to have it welded up and redrilled??
 

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I think this would be unlikely due to the limited space provided by the Damper and the? internal profile of the pan. The existing threaded hole has about 10 threads for just over half of the circumference. The remainder has three or four due to a vertical channel which significantly reduces the pan thickness at that point. Having said that, it might be possible for an experienced aluminium welder to fill the existing orifice and re-drill and thread a new smaller drain but I would not hold my breath.

Keith

On 05/06/2022 14:27, tony bellworthy wrote:

Interesting -and useful!
As someone who's viewed the oil pan 'from the inside', would you think it would be viable to have it welded up and redrilled??

Bob Lombardi
 

It?could be welded entirely from the outside if the hole is tapered from the outside towards the?inside.?
As a welder, I have personally done that as a government certified repair procedure on aluminum parts at the factory where machinesist have damaged new parts by either a n operator?mess up or when a cutting tool breaks.?

I would use TIG welding for that if possible.?
The only problem with engine parts is that oil comes out of the aluminum when it gets hot.?
Clean the pan well and bake it off before you start if you can.?
Bob




On Sunday, June 5, 2022, 2:10 PM, Rev <keith.kkr@...> wrote:

I think this would be unlikely due to the limited space provided by the Damper and the? internal profile of the pan. The existing threaded hole has about 10 threads for just over half of the circumference. The remainder has three or four due to a vertical channel which significantly reduces the pan thickness at that point. Having said that, it might be possible for an experienced aluminium welder to fill the existing orifice and re-drill and thread a new smaller drain but I would not hold my breath.

Keith

On 05/06/2022 14:27, tony bellworthy wrote:
Interesting -and useful!
As someone who's viewed the oil pan 'from the inside', would you think it would be viable to have it welded up and redrilled??

 

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thanks Keith I was brainstorming - but with your input it sounds like welding might cost more than a new pan!?


On Jun 5, 2022, at 17:10, Rev <keith.kkr@...> wrote:

?

I think this would be unlikely due to the limited space provided by the Damper and the? internal profile of the pan. The existing threaded hole has about 10 threads for just over half of the circumference. The remainder has three or four due to a vertical channel which significantly reduces the pan thickness at that point. Having said that, it might be possible for an experienced aluminium welder to fill the existing orifice and re-drill and thread a new smaller drain but I would not hold my breath.

Keith

On 05/06/2022 14:27, tony bellworthy wrote:
Interesting -and useful!
As someone who's viewed the oil pan 'from the inside', would you think it would be viable to have it welded up and redrilled??

Bob Lombardi
 

I’d price the welding first.?
That is not a big welding ?job. ? Especially if you clean it up yourself and just hand it to the guy ready to go.?
Drilling and taping out the weld you’ll end up with a much stronger piece than the original cast piece,?actually better than new.?
As I said, ?price it first. It wouldn’t cost anything to do that.?
Bob?




On Sunday, June 5, 2022, 3:27 PM, Sal Emma <bikewriter@...> wrote:

thanks Keith I was brainstorming - but with your input it sounds like welding might cost more than a new pan!?


On Jun 5, 2022, at 17:10, Rev <keith.kkr@...> wrote:

?

I think this would be unlikely due to the limited space provided by the Damper and the? internal profile of the pan. The existing threaded hole has about 10 threads for just over half of the circumference. The remainder has three or four due to a vertical channel which significantly reduces the pan thickness at that point. Having said that, it might be possible for an experienced aluminium welder to fill the existing orifice and re-drill and thread a new smaller drain but I would not hold my breath.

Keith

On 05/06/2022 14:27, tony bellworthy wrote:
Interesting -and useful!
As someone who's viewed the oil pan 'from the inside', would you think it would be viable to have it welded up and redrilled??

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