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Re: Sag or Preload; & suspension
Ruari McLennan
OK, I called Dave Quinn re the rear shocks and found that the travel
on the Hagon 33007s is 3.2", so total sag of 27 mm is actually 33% of that, bang on the money! (or close enough) But, I cannot find any info as to the front fork travel, which he says is usually in the service or owners manual specifications. One should look at 25-33% of that as a rough rule of thumb for sag, too, he says. Does anyone have any ideas? Ruari --- In W650riders@..., Ruari McLennan <r.mclennan@...> wrote: when you are moving the ring up to squash the spring you are increasing pre-load. Bear in mind all you do is limit the low speed springing. Once the spring starts to compress it compresses at the normal rate irrespective of preload settings because springs compress linearly. W650 preload "sag." They are not terribly familiar with older style bikes, they area sportbike/racer shop. rear classic shocks. I weigh 198 lbs dry and 217 on the bike with gear.sportbikes. My results were: Front 50 mm.; and rear 27 mm. measurements are applicable here, particularly when the W650 rear shocks are so vertical by comparison.
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NWC: motorcycle sales site
开云体育I got a flyer about this site from the AMA. I've
never seen it before, so don't know if it's news to anyone else.
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Lots of motorcycles for sale. Free
listings.
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gene in OR
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* "Where you've been is gone, where you're goin' ain't happened yet and where you are ain't no good unless you can git away from it" ? -Hazel Motes- |
Re: Chain tension
Martin Taylor
1. if the teeth are hooked i.e. very worn on the pointy bit.. best to replace.If the sprockets are symmetrical the tight spot on your chain is probably either siezure of that part of the linkage or stretching due to heavy sudden accelaration.
2. the useage of the chain is exactly the same as a closed chain. The only important thing to remember is that the closed end of the spring clip which seals the join on the new chain is in the direction of travel. If the open end of the spring clip faces the direction of travel the whole thing will pull apart. 3. I have fitted a scottoiler to my W and this keeps the chain lubricated. They are fairly easy to fit and seem to do the job. I have had mine for about 2000 miles. ________________________________ From: W650riders@... on behalf of zottomagic Sent: Thu 05/07/2007 18:26 To: W650riders@... Subject: [W650riders] Re: Chain tension Thanks Martin & Dennis. That's much easier. I've clearly never tried a master link chain - anything different about them in use? (e.g. lifetime, lube/clean, etc). What should I look for on the sprockets? The teeth seem symmetric (leading & trailing edges look the same). Any recommendations for a particular chain or supplier? / Rob --- In W650riders@... <mailto:W650riders%40yahoogroups.com> , "Martin Taylor" <martin.taylor@...> wrote: the old one and pull through before joining the new one up. Buy a chain with a master link. Works perfectly. Don't forget to check the sprockets out and replace if necessary. |
Re: W's look like.....
Roy Easthill
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Re: How I spent the 4th of July
Anita Reid
Should've stayed in bed. LOL
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Anita Gene Fitch wrote:
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Re: Update on the front wheel shimmy.
Don't know about the RoadRiders. They are a new tyre since the UK company got bought out. Let us know how they fare!
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----- Original Message -----
From: "pete7953" <peter.sluman@...> To: <W650riders@...> Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 6:32 PM Subject: [W650riders] Update on the front wheel shimmy. Thanks again to all the inputs on this. I'm pleased to report that with |
Re: Chain tension
I use DID 'X' ring. It has rubber seals to keep crap out of the joints, only needs a light oiling to keep nice, doesn't stretch, and doesn't therefore hook the sprockets or need adjustment. It's designed for much more powerful bikes so the W hardly bothers it at all. Spend money on the over-engineered expensive good stuff and it seems you only spend once!
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Thanks Martin & Dennis. That's much easier. I've clearly never tried |
Re: How to remove the front wheel.
Larry Botheras
开云体育…not part of the tool kit.? You need to buy one… ? ? Larry Botheras ? Essex UK W650 Wrench 2007 Moto Guzzi Norge 1977 KH400 1978 CD175 1994 Ural Solo ? ? ? From: W650riders@...
[mailto:W650riders@...] On Behalf Of pete7953
Sent: 05 July 2007 18:30 To: W650riders@... Subject: [W650riders] Re: How to remove the front wheel. ? Thanks for that info. Now, I wonder where the
hex driver from the |
Update on the front wheel shimmy.
pete7953
Thanks again to all the inputs on this. I'm pleased to report that with
a new front tyre, that matches the new rear, the shimmy has gone! For the record, I've fitted Avon Roadriders, and even on a gentle scrubbing in ride the bike seems transformed. Thanks Pete |
Re: How I spent the 4th of July
开云体育LOL! You understand I'm laughing WITH you, not AT
you.?? ;->
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Happy 5th Keith. Hope it goes better today. How was
the lunch special?
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gene in OR
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Re: How to remove the front wheel.
pete7953
Thanks for that info. Now, I wonder where the hex driver from the
tool kit has gone? I've never opened it until now, so maybe the previous owner(s) kept hold of it. Bugger. --- In W650riders@..., "Martin Taylor" <martin.taylor@...> wrote: lift the front wheel off the ground, then using large hex driver from tool kit, undo the right hand hex (looking towards the front of the bike) leave the other one tight until you have unwound the right handpart of the spindle. Then loosen the left hand one, pull out the spindle and the wheel will come out easily. Note that the spacers on either side of the wheel are different sizes and need to go back in the same side they came out from. When you try and reinstate the wheel, take the weight off the back of the bike, put the spacers either side of the wheel, gently pull the bike down onto the wheel and then isert the spindle again. Tighten the left hand hex first, then the right hand one. Job done...BEFORE riding off, pump the front brake a few times otherwise you will get a nasty surprise. ________________________________problem. hopefully when I get a new front tyre to match the new rear, itwill go away. However, until then, I have just tried to get the front wheelout but it looks like 2 rather large hex wrenches are required. Is oneside a 'bolt' and the other a 'nut', or are both fixings 'nuts' I alsosadly, there are no wrenches in the tool kit. |
Re: Chain tension
Thanks Martin & Dennis. That's much easier. I've clearly never tried
a master link chain - anything different about them in use? (e.g. lifetime, lube/clean, etc). What should I look for on the sprockets? The teeth seem symmetric (leading & trailing edges look the same). Any recommendations for a particular chain or supplier? / Rob --- In W650riders@..., "Martin Taylor" <martin.taylor@...> wrote: the old one and pull through before joining the new one up. Buy a chain with a master link. Works perfectly. Don't forget to check the sprockets out and replace if necessary. |
Re: W's look like.....
jimmi mc gaw
one of scotlands finest (retired } can always get a MOT
--- In W650riders@..., "Ruari McLennan" <r.mclennan@...> wrote: I hear your brother enjoys doing your MOT work these days.enclosed places or closed in streets.whenScares the hell out of the cattle and sheep on the country roads there's nobody about and I can wind it up (but I've got an oldscore to settle with them anyway).No problem with the 3 MOT's I've had since I fitted them. |
Re: CL W650 Petition ?
Kirk Johnson
Vernon, I went to Craigslist - Los Angeles - Motorcycles, then entered W650. ? I do not know how to do a national Craiglslist search. Kirk jv_roberts2000 wrote:
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Re: Oil level...
The hanging down pipes are the thing. Any oil will dribble from there. A light coating on the inside of the plastic airbox won't touch anything, and I suppose if a serios quantity runs from the drain pipe I would slide out the filters and wash them, but otherwise probably not bother. The weather is so shit at the moment one feels very unmotivated re bike stuff...
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Jon Yeah, Nige, why don't you pop off the right side cover, pull out the |
Re: Oil level...
Nige,
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What sort of oil are you using? A few years ago whilst on holiday in Italy I gave the W a day long thrash, in company with a 900 Ninja. We sat for 450 miles, at 90/100 stopping only for petrol (Autostrada from Frejuce(sp?) to Anconna). Temp was 40 + C. I was using mineral oil and had checked the level the day before. The oil went from the top of the sight glass to below the minimum, gulp. Topped her up, and no harm done apparently. I have since changed to synthetic, and she hasn't used any oil since...I wouldn't worry about being a jot over, just take her out and cane her, good & proper.... Mark, ----- Original Message -----
From: "nige_1959" <nigel.denton1@...> To: <W650riders@...> Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 1:02 PM Subject: [W650riders] Re: Oil level... Oops...LOL...yeah your right I checked the chain with her sitting on |
Re: W's look like.....
Ruari McLennan
No doubt that fiver you slip the "nice wee man" doesn't hurt, Roy, I
hear your brother enjoys doing your MOT work these days. Ruari --- In W650riders@..., "Roy Easthill" <roy@...> wrote: places or closed in streets. Scares the hell out of the cattle and sheep on the country roads whenthere's nobody about and I can wind it up (but I've got an old score to settle with them anyway). No problem with the 3 MOT's I've had since I fitted them. |
Re: Oil level...
Ruari McLennan
Yeah, Nige, why don't you pop off the right side cover, pull out the
air filter, and have a keek into the right airbox with a torch to see if there's any oil coating the inside? Also pull out the little plug at the bottom of the rubber tube leading off the airbox, to see if any oil drips out, should give you some idea if you're getting too much up in there... I would encourage you to put the bike on the centrestand on a level surface with 16.5-17 mm. (11/16") thick chocks (bits of plank) under the tires, and wait 'til it's cold, for accurate checking of the oil level. Trying to do it off the stand or with a rider on is fraught with difficulties (as well as moaning!) The slightest bit off-centre gives a false read. As well, trying to check while the oil's hot after a run is hopeless, it expands into the wrong chamber and gives a "too full" false reading. I leave the bike on their chocks so when it is cold the next day I check before starting off. Ruari --- In W650riders@..., "Jonhaddock@..." <jonhaddock@...> wrote: hasn't used any and it doesn't seem to blow any out. I think it might haveto be well above before you get problems.onOops...LOL...yeah your right I checked the chain with her sitting side ofit, with her moaning, and checked the oil with her holding one onthe bike, with her moaning. But yeah the bike was off the stand, our garage floor and upright. |
Re: W's look like.....
Roy Easthill
开云体育Yes to Minizooms,
No to dyno'ed, so dunno to power increase.?
I've got rid of the?cannister and
pipework under the tank?etc and fitted coasters,?different size front
sprocket, different jets and needles, taken out the tool tray, drilled 1'' holes in airboxes an?footered
with the?carb settings.
The Raasks come with
downpipes?with?seperate baffled exhausts clamped
together.
The bike just burbles along until you
open it up and then it sounds just like the old Nortons and Beezas.
The noise is OK as long as you don't give
it?the wellie in enclosed places or closed in streets.
But they can certainly turn heads, the
older guys always comment on how the bike? sounds and looks?like their
old bikes.
Scares the hell out of the cattle and
sheep on the country roads when there's nobody about and I can wind it
up?(but I've got an old score to settle with them anyway).
To be honest I could'nt tell you if there
is?much difference?in the performance before and after.
I just love the sound, brings back
memories and I enjoy just riding?the?bike.
No problem with the 3 MOT's I've had
since I fitted them.
He's a nice wee man tho.
Roy?
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