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Re: new member

 

Hello Albert
Glad to have you join us
How large is the glass from the cat. tubes and how thick?
Because the light dosen't go thru the type of glass is less important than how stable it is. It's been a long time since I've broken a TV screen but I think the glass is too thin to grind?into a good mirror. let us know we have some real expert mirror makers here (I'm not one of the experts :-)
Good luck
Ron

teveotron wrote:

I have the idea of using the front of obsolete cathode ray tubes, as
parabolic mirrow for telescopes.



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new member

 

Hi friends, I am glad to faind a groop dedicated to the vacuum
technology.
I live in Argentina, and my english is not very good, I hope you
scuse my errors.

My main activity is the rebuilding of catode ray tubes (television
screens)but my hoby is atronomy.

I have the idea of using the front of obsolete cathode ray tubes, as
parabolic mirrow for telescopes.

This front is made of good cuality glass.

How you like the idea?

I am waiting for answers.

Albert Gasparini


Re: Transformers for evaporation and glow discharge.

 

-Hi Jeon
The Best (cheapest :>) Glow Discharge transformers are from Neon
signs you can find these on e-Bay for little money I have one 9000v -
35 ma and it seems to work fine. I use a welder to heat the
evaporation tungsten I bought .060 welding electrode tungsten and it
seems to be to large so I need a lot of amperage to get it hot I've
read of other guys using a large battery charger for the power source
and they regulate the 110v side of the charger with a dimmer switch.
I'll try to find the web site for you.
E-Beam now that's ambitious¡ªI have been studying this and not
having a lot of luck in finding the voltage / amperage and coil specs
needed. Sputtering system may be easier to deal with again finding
the source for a high voltage and high amperage source may be
difficult (expensive)Fabricating a Sputtering head seems to be
easier than E-beam.

Good Luck
Keep us posted
Ron

VacuumX@..., "jongmin686" <jongmin686@y...> wrote:
Hi, friends
Hi> I'm starting to build the Vacuum deposition system just with
a CVC


Re: Transformers for evaporation and glow discharge.

 

Maybe your best bet would be to purchase a small 110 Volt arc welding unit. They have variable outputs and will certainly zap any material you might want to coat. Although the manufactures don't recommend this... using the on and off switch will provide the control needed to get started. The output of most machines is 50 to 100 volts and 50 to 150 amps... this will do for most needs. I too am putting a small coating unit together and having the same problems. Let me know of your progress and I will do the same.
Bill Lang, Stockton , CA


Transformers for evaporation and glow discharge.

 

Hi, friends

I'm starting to build the Vacuum deposition system just with a CVC
diffusion pump and a Edwards pump.
Right now , I'm looking for transformers for evaporation and glow
discharge, but Actually I was studing bilody included with insects
such as butterflys, and so I don't have any knowledge related with
electrical power.
Could you tell me which transformer is better or the range of output
current, voltage or watt for evaportion and glow discharge ?

If I can take care of these troubles, Next problem is to find or make
electron beam gun power supply. To find it, I am still watching
ebay'power supplys everyday. Anyway It is not easy.

Good luck everybody,~~!!

Jeon *^,^*


Re: Vacuum chamber

 

Hi Ken
Here is half way between New York and Boston? . Farmington Connecticut
I'm still chasing down leaks in my tank / setup.
Most of the plumbing is cool The tank gasket has been a bit of a challenge but?I think that its OK I fabricated up some well nuts for the electrical feed thru these didn't work out to good.
I've been testing? (playing with) each thing before I put it into the full setup.
I tried checking for leaks by using dye. this works good for the larger ones but it doesn't work for the real small ones.
I still don't have a low vacuum gauge, I'll have to find some time to do some shopping.
?
Because I don't have all the bugs worked out I haven't filled ?the diffusion pumps with the correct (expensive) oil. I have tried vacuum pump oil I don't know if this will work well enough but in does tell me that I still have leaks.? mostly I am stumbling around in the dark trying different things till I get it to work.
?
I'll post photos when I get a few things put together and cleaned up.
"Soon I'll be an expert on what doesn't work"
?
Take Care
Ron
?
Ken Hunter wrote:



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Re: Slow going

Ken Hunter
 

--- In VacuumX@..., "paladinironworks" <PIW@s...> wrote:
Hi all,

I'm still kicking but work has been at a standstill on my chamber.
I'm relocating my shop is my excuse. (That and money).

Les
I understand entirely... All my goodies are in storage somewhere in
Amarillo... I'm at the Days Inn and I can relate to the money thing
too!

Ken


Slow going

paladinironworks
 

Hi all,

I'm still kicking but work has been at a standstill on my chamber.
I'm relocating my shop is my excuse. (That and money).

Les


Re: Amarillo

Ken Hunter
 

--- In VacuumX@..., RON WHITE <ron_white@s...> wrote:

Hi Ken

God I hate moving

When Joanne and I moved here ...
Hi Ron,

Where is here? Do you have any photo's of your chamber?
Put some in the group area and I'll post one as the home
page photo!

Ken Hunter


Re: Amarillo

 

Hi Ken

God?I hate moving

When Joanne and I moved here she was in the hospital having babies way to soon. Thank God for lots of friends and family including my father in law who broke his foot for his effort.

?

Greetings all:

?

I found a 21" diameter water tank that I cut in half and added flanges to both pieces cut in 12 electrical feeds about 14 up from the flange for the evaporators and 2 near the top for the glow discharge the glow discharge is connected to a 6 KV 35ma neon transformer. This isnt as bright as I expected so I am going to try -1ST grounding one side to the case 2ND using a larger 10kv 65MA transformer that I just picked up.

I have a small 300W air cooled 2 diffusion pump that is part of a leak testing setup I picked up on e-Bay. The diffusion pump setup flow starting from the vacuum / (Searss water) tank has a pneumatic valve, pressure gauge ports a Valve, cold stack, a valve, and then the diffusion pump.

?

I have been able to get the vacuum low enough to stop the glow discharge (about 20 minuets) but not low enough to evaporate the Al this may be due to the small size diffusion pump or the amount of piping before it. I did find a small leak at the pneumatic valve last time I tried it.

?

Im still trying to find vacuum gauges that work I have 3 controllers and 2 thermocouples and an ion tube all purchased separately on e-Bay and I havent gotten them to work yet.

?

I have a 6 water cooled Diffusion pump I am going to try today.

?

Now the questions:

?

How bright should the glow discharge be? It isnt giving enough light to see anything in the tank.

My Tungsten wire is way to big .045 so I need a lot of power to get it hot how hot should it get Dull red, Bright red, almost white? Will smaller wire hold up better or worse?

?

Working sucks (no pun) I hardly get any time to work on my projects.



Ken Hunter wrote:




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Amarillo

Ken Hunter
 

Hello guys...

Rose and I made it to Amarillo OK, Were staying at the Day's Inn
until we can find something to call home (with a BIG workshop of
course!)...

Don't see much activity on the group these days.

Anybody out there reading this?

Ken


Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump

Darald Bantel
 

On Fri, 2003-04-25 at 22:12, grantfair2001 wrote:
The pump label specifically warns against the use of any oil
lubricants; wouldn't this include diesel?
You bet!!

I just used google to find out what there is available for information
at they suggest using a Gast solvent ##### (!). It may be useful to
access the website and to contact your closest dealer and get a
recommendation from them. If you are real concerned about things perhaps
you need to ship them the unit for service.

Darald


Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump

grantfair2001
 

The pump label specifically warns against the use of any oil
lubricants; wouldn't this include diesel?

Grant

--- In VacuumX@..., Darald Bantel <dbantel@t...> wrote:
On Fri, 2003-04-25 at 14:01, grantfair2001 wrote:
I phoned a local vacuum pump firm and asked about a solvent to flush a
vacuum pump with carbon vanes. (The pump suggests Loctite Saftey
Solvent which doesn't seem to be made anymore). The lady I spoke to
recommended an automobile product - Brake Kleen.

Would this work for flushing the Gast?
Try 3/4 gallon of diesel with 1 qt of ATF mixed in.

The brake Kleen could be used after this. The diesel mix is a very low
viscosity lubricant.

You could try the diesel mix first and then see how the pump works.

If you are trying for a very very low vacuum then put in some brake
kleen and it will absorb and remove the previous and the inside should
be polished again.

Darald


Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump

Darald Bantel
 

On Fri, 2003-04-25 at 14:01, grantfair2001 wrote:
I phoned a local vacuum pump firm and asked about a solvent to flush a
vacuum pump with carbon vanes. (The pump suggests Loctite Saftey
Solvent which doesn't seem to be made anymore). The lady I spoke to
recommended an automobile product - Brake Kleen.

Would this work for flushing the Gast?
Try 3/4 gallon of diesel with 1 qt of ATF mixed in.

The brake Kleen could be used after this. The diesel mix is a very low
viscosity lubricant.

You could try the diesel mix first and then see how the pump works.

If you are trying for a very very low vacuum then put in some brake
kleen and it will absorb and remove the previous and the inside should
be polished again.

Darald


Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump

grantfair2001
 

I phoned a local vacuum pump firm and asked about a solvent to flush a
vacuum pump with carbon vanes. (The pump suggests Loctite Saftey
Solvent which doesn't seem to be made anymore). The lady I spoke to
recommended an automobile product - Brake Kleen.

Would this work for flushing the Gast?

Grant


Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump

grantfair2001
 

Thanks for the advice. The motor recommends flushing with a Loctite
fluid as well as mentioning some other things which may be banned by
now. I will check further.

Grant

--- In VacuumX@..., Darald Bantel <dbantel@t...> wrote:
On Tue, 2003-04-22 at 21:16, grantfair2001 wrote:
Hi Darald - thanks for the reply, it is helpful.

For reasons unknown, the Gast pump started putting out lots of air
recently. It has been running non-stop for several days so maybe
something wore into shape, though the thing was old surplus when I
bought it. Anyway - for now it is working just fine!

Grant
Greetings

I am currently working on a vacuum truck and every 8 to 10 running hours
I flush the pump with a 3:1 mixture of diesel and ATF oil. The ratio
could be different in your application because I have problems with
internal grease deposition that you should not have. Check with a Gast
vacuum pump distributor as to recommended practice. This process may not
apply to a high accuracy pump but is used regularly on vacuum trucks in
this area.

The flushing is to lubricate (and clean) the inside of the pump.

Darald


Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump

Darald Bantel
 

On Tue, 2003-04-22 at 21:16, grantfair2001 wrote:
Hi Darald - thanks for the reply, it is helpful.

For reasons unknown, the Gast pump started putting out lots of air
recently. It has been running non-stop for several days so maybe
something wore into shape, though the thing was old surplus when I
bought it. Anyway - for now it is working just fine!

Grant
Greetings

I am currently working on a vacuum truck and every 8 to 10 running hours
I flush the pump with a 3:1 mixture of diesel and ATF oil. The ratio
could be different in your application because I have problems with
internal grease deposition that you should not have. Check with a Gast
vacuum pump distributor as to recommended practice. This process may not
apply to a high accuracy pump but is used regularly on vacuum trucks in
this area.

The flushing is to lubricate (and clean) the inside of the pump.

Darald


Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump

grantfair2001
 

Thanks Ken -

They did not have any Gast kits, are the names they use "generic"?

And if those are cheap prices, what are the expensive ones like? <g>

Anyway, my pump inexplicably started pumping more air recently, so for
now I don't need to improve it.

Good luck with your upcoming move.

If I have trouble with the pump in the future I will be back to the list.

Grant

--- In VacuumX@..., "Ken Hunter" <atm_ken_hunter@y...> wrote:
Try Duniway Stockroom ( www.duniway.com/ ) for the vanes or re-build
kit. My books are already packed up so I can't look it up for you.

Ken Hunter

--- In VacuumX@..., "grantfair2001" <grant.fair@s...>
wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for replacement vanes at a cheap price
for a pump this old? Or another fix?

Thanks,

Grant


Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump

grantfair2001
 

Hi Darald - thanks for the reply, it is helpful.

For reasons unknown, the Gast pump started putting out lots of air
recently. It has been running non-stop for several days so maybe
something wore into shape, though the thing was old surplus when I
bought it. Anyway - for now it is working just fine!

Grant

--- In VacuumX@..., Darald Bantel <dbantel@t...> wrote:
On Mon, 2003-04-21 at 11:56, grantfair2001 wrote:
Hi Darald-

Machine carbon? To a high precision fit?

As Peanuts said to Lucy, you have very high ambitious - for me <g>. I
am sure it would be beyond my skills. I am reluctant to simply take
the pump apart for fear of damaging it. It does work now, although not
as well as I would like. Where are you in Canada? I'm in Toronto; if I
can find the carbon maybe you could demonstrate in your shop?

Has anyone on the list taken one of these pumps apart and know what
steps are involved?

Grant
Greetings

If I had a shop or worked in one where I had access to equipment for
after hours work I would say no problemo!!

I worked in a shop where we made carbon bushings for pump shaft
whatevers. These were done in a size from 1" OD and 3/4" ID to 3.5" OD
and can't remember the ID on that one.

We used HSS tools with a nice sharp edge with a generous radius on the
tool tip (but not too large either just more than for steel more like
that for 660 brass) and kept the cuts light. No pushing things to make
them go fast. Also used a small (3/4") paintbrush on the tool to control
the dust as this makes a mess on the machine. Clean the machine often
and clean very very well after!!

If you do not try you will never learn. Just use very sharp drill bits
and keep the pressure down and the rpms at a good rate but not real
fast. If you can machine to bearing fits and put in an O-ring groove
inside a piece 1" in that is 0.100 wide and 0.100 deep (each side) you
DO know enough to tackle it. Just do not get in a hurry and make sure
you actually have carbon and not graphite that is in the pump!

Darald


Old Kinney Vacuum Coater

 

My project is the gradual restoration of an old, (~1960 I'm
guessing)
Kinney vacuum coater, (Type SC-3).
The system is based on a 2" diffusion pump, 12" dia X 12" tall bell
jar, and a Sargent-Welch 1403 roughing pump.

To date, my progress has been to disassemble and clean up the
diffusion pump. It had the appearance and smell on the inside of
being a crude oil cracking apparatus. I used oven cleaner, (not
wanting to mess with hot lye solutions) followed by distilled water
and then acetone to clean it up. I replaced all the seals with new
Viton O rings. I cleaned up and changed the oil in the roughing pump
which seems to be in very good condition.

At this point I decided to see were I stood with the system. Without
further disassembly and cleaning, (I was worried about the condition
of the rubber diaphragms in the various diaphragm valves, the outside
edges look cracked, but I didn't want to mess with them unless I
had
to), I started roughing down the system.

I think it went surprisingly well for such and old piece of
equipment. I was able to get the system down to about 10^-2 torr,
which surprised me because as far as I can tell the 1403 roughing
pump is a one stage pump and I wouldn't expect it to get much
below 1
torr. The pressure was monitored using a Stokes McLeod gauge. One of
the three installed thermocouple gauges seemed to be functioning. I
suspect that the other two gauge tubes, (Type 531) are not working.
The discharge gauge, which I'm assuming was installed in the bell
jar
base plate, because there was a vacant hole, is missing. My guess it
was a cold cathode ion gauge. I have a Kinney type KDG gauge head a
Varian 524-2 gauge head and a NRC type 507 ionization gauge sitting
in a box of parts I got with the system, along with a CVC Autovac
3294A gauge controller and a NRC 724 Gauge controller. Which gauge
head goes with which controller I am not at all certain. I also
picked up a Bendix (CVC?) GP-310 Pirani gauge controller with no
sensor head at the MIT flea marker Sunday just because it was sitting
there for $10.

The immediate questions I have concern the next step. I feel that I
am in the pressure realm that I can consider turning on the diffusion
pump. Initiayl I charged the diffusion pump with an unknown silicon
oil that I removed from an old 4" CVC system that I have waiting for
possible restoration. Then I got to thinking that this old Kinney
system was probably designed for a hydrocarbon diffusion oil and the
heater came into question. The heater is a Chromalox HSP 31, 115V,
100W disc heater. There is no controller or thermostat on the heater
nor anyway to measure the heater temperature. What diffusion pump oil
should I use? I might add that there seems to be no baffle between
the diffusion pump and the bell jar, just a gate valve.
Intrumentation. What sensor head goes with what controller? A cheap
source of type 531 T/C gauge heads. The same for a Pirani type GP-003
sensor tube. Does anyone have any recollection of this Kinney system?
This is a "back burner" type of project, going slow as I collect
information and pieces.

My interest in vacuum coating has to do with small acoustical sensors
and sources. For example, I am currently working on a miniature
electrostatic sound source which incorporates a slightly conductive
very thin, (~.00006 inch) Mylar diaphragm and perforated thin metal
stators. Currently I am making the diaphragms "conductive", (about
10K ohms over 1") by applying powdered graphite to them. They work,
but this doesn't seem very elegant or controllable. If I get the
vacuum coating system running, my next series of questions may be
concerning how to conductively coat mylar without melting it,
(radiating heat). The Kinney system is also set up with carbon
coating capabilities. Also, because these electrostatic sources I am
working on are to be used in a very high magnetic field, (MRI) I have
a need to minimize metal in their construction, (eddy currents), so a
metalized stator might have advantages. Envisioned future uses for
vacuum coating might concern capacitance micro phones, again
metalized diaphragms and stators, and plasma clean/etching sounds
interesting because I am forever trying to adhesively bond polar
polymers, (nylon, Delrin, polyethelene, Teflon, etc)

Thanks for any guidance

ExpTec
DBA Experimental Technique