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Welcome Vacuum Experimenters!
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
Gee...
I sure hope I spelled that right! Anyway, Welcome to this new Yahoo Group for the casual experimenter in Vacuum or High Vacuum (from now on Vac or HiVac). Searching the web I've found a few places for more experienced vacuum workers that seem to really get into the Physics of what and how the molecules do what they do under low pressures. I've made a few requests on some of those lists and I either get a full-blown snow- job or an offer to sell me just the right do-dad for only a few thousand dollars. That kinda leaves me without a place to chat with folks that have some knowledge and are willing to share it. I am interested in HiVac in order to put together an Aluminizing chamber for telescope mirrors. I've been gathering parts for several years in order to build my system and have a barn full of goodies but was still looking for an 18 inch Bell Jar until last week when I found a surplus 24 inch SYSTEM. I will be travelling to Eastern PA this weekend to pick it up and will keep a running description on here (assuming there is any interest and/or members). I've seen Aluminum vaporized onto glass before and "it ain't rocket science". It's a fairly simple process but there are things to be aware of and to watch out for. So... Let's get together and have some friendly discussions on what works, what doesn't, things to watch out for, things to sell, trade, etc. I'm moderator only in the sense that I've started this group. I'll pretty much leave the daily running to the members but will step in if I'm asked or if I see a need... other than that, it's your group to use. Have fun, be kind, learn, teach, participate. Ken Hunter |
Photo's posted to Group
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
Hi Guys...
I've posted some photo's to the group in a folder named "Ken's junque shop". There's one of me and a SILO top that I have been lugging around for a while, a few of some vacuum valves, diffusion pumps and condenser baffle units as well as one of the 20 inch baseplates I have been trying to find an 18 inch bell jar for. There are also 4 photo's of the vacuum system that I'll be picking up in Pa this coming week. It is a 24 inch bell jar with all the valves, turbo pump etc. Only thing missing is a roughing pump. I have a HyVac that I think will work but it might be a bit under-rated for the turbo. I'll just have to see how it does. Now it's your turn... Open up a folder and post your photo's then give us a description of what you're doing or would like to do. Personal photo's are nice to have also so we can see who we are chatting with. Have fun! Ken Hunter |
Re: Photo's posted to Group
James Lerch
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Guys,
?
I'm heading out the door for a 4 day fishin trip,
but just wanted to say Hi!? BTW, Ken I love your "Junque Shop"
:)
?
Threw a couple images into the photo's
section.? I have many more images on my web site @ (towards the
bottom of the left screen)
?
When I get back Tuesday, I'll send a post of
detailing two of my more exciting moments during Aluminizing.?(A Cracked
window and a Tripped breaker?while Evaporating!)
?
Take Care,
James Lerch
?(My
Telescope Construction, Testing, and Coating site)
|
capillary tube vs valve
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
In James Lerch's system he uses an adjustable valve to "tune" the
amount of cooling derived from an air conditioning compressor to cool his cold trap... I have a similar cold trap (3 actually) that I have not set up yet. They came with compressors, expansion chambers and capillary tubes. Should I go ahead and try using the capillary tubes or change over to an adjustable valve? I would have to re-weld, silver solder the capillary tubes back into the chambers to get them working. Does the tubing aperature actually have to be changed if the compressed liquid type is changed? I'm not sure what the original refrigerant was but the system is fairly ancient. Most likely I'd have to change refrigerent types to a newer approved refrigerant. Anybody out there have any ideas on what would be the best way to proceed? Looks like I might need to start a "compressed gasses" group... Ken Hunter |
Group Links
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
I've added James Lerch's web site link to the Group Links. If you
have a web site that you'd like to add... please do! Ken Hunter |
Is this group gonna make it?
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
Hi...
It's been a while since anyone (me) posted. We now have 12 members, but not much participation. Should I keep the Group open or let it die? I've returned from Eastern PA with a vacuum coating system on the back of the trailer. Unfortunately, I contracted a bad cold during the loading of the equipment and have been bedridden for most of the last few days. It's still where it was parked Wednesday and I haven't been outside since that time. There will be a lot to do to make the system operational. Originally it was a wafer handling and coating chamber for making Integrated circuits. Most of the wafer handling equipment, gauges etc were taken off the rack before I purchased it but I was able to retrieve the electronics necessary for making the gauges and turbo pump work. I'll need to dis-assemble and clean everything as there is no way of knowing what kind of toxic materials may be lurking in the thing. A complete re-wiring will also be necessary as the original machine was controlled by computer. So, I have my work cut out for me. What are you up to these days? Ken Hunter |
Re: Is this group gonna make it?
andy miller <[email protected]>
Ken ; hello , just joined your group , I confess I dont know much
about vacuum coating mirrors, thats part of the reason I joined.I do however calibrate vacuum gages at work for a liveing.So if I can be of any help, give me a holler.I hope this group makes it.Coating ones own mirrors, isnt a pretty wide spread practice , but it is interesting. Andy --- In VacuumX@..., "Ken Hunter <atm_ken_hunter@y...>" <atm_ken_hunter@y...> wrote: Hi...the last few days. It's still where it was parked Wednesday and Ihaven't been outside since that time.Originally it was a wafer handling and coating chamber for making Integratedtaken off the rack before I purchased it but I was able to retrieve theI'll need to dis-assemble and clean everything as there is no way ofwas controlled by computer. So, I have my work cut out for me. |
Welcome to the group
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
Hi Andy...
Welcome to the Group. I'm sure that your expertise can be of help to some of us as we muddle through. Where are you located? I'm thinking Australia for some reason. (Am I close?) Tell us more about what you do at work and please post a photo of yourself or favorite project or both in the sections to the left. If you have access to surplus gauges, parts or supplies, let that be known also... Let's see if we can keep this thing going. Do you work on Gauge Controllers as well as the gauges? What models do you handle and recommend? There's a lot of folks that use Vacuum pumps, gauges, etc for making Neon signs and other projects that may have some needed information or may be able to pick some up here as well. You never know who will show up or what they will bring with them. Ken Hunter |
Re: Welcome to the group
andy miller <[email protected]>
Ken ; hello I work in a foundry, Im the lead calibrator technician,
we have 5 small units we use to pull up to 30 lbs of vacuum to test for gas in the aluminum.Calibrateing them is pretty straight forward.I live in north east ohio.As for parts well, I dont actually own one myself.But Ill be glad to help as much as I can as far as where to purchase the gages goes or the testing equipment, or even how to test for accuracy of the gage.I know a year or so ago, I went looking for some one who might have a coating chamber, found exactly zero, so Im sure this group can serve a usefull function in the atm universe. Andy --- In VacuumX@..., "Ken Hunter <atm_ken_hunter@y...>" <atm_ken_hunter@y...> wrote: Hi Andy...to some of us as we muddle through. Where are you located? I'mthinking Australia for some reason. (Am I close?) Tell us more about whatyou do at work and please post a photo of yourself or favorite projector both in the sections to the left. If you have access to surpluswe can keep this thing going.making Neon signs and other projects that may have some needed informationwill show up or what they will bring with them. |
Re: capillary tube vs valve
James Lerch
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Ken,
?
Interesting question,?unfortunately the answer
has a whole bunch of variables!? So here's my stab at an
answer.
?
The Cap Tube size/length needed depends on the
following variables
?
Pump Volume (speed)
The type and amount of refrigerant being
used
High side Temp / Pressure to get liquid refrigerant
at the cap tube
Low side Temp / Pressure desired for
cooling.
?
Since you indicate you don't know the original refrigerant being used, nor
the quantity, ?its going to get a little difficult.?
?
So, the question is how to proceed with what you've got... Hmmmmmmm
?
My best suggestion is a source of R-22 freon (or its environmentally
friendly equivalent)
?
R-12/R-124a might work, however the system won't get as cold given the same
low side pressure.? However R-124a is available at any Wal-Mart
or?auto parts store...?
?
In any event the best course of action might be to just pick a handy
refrigerant and give it a try!?? Pull a modest vacuum on the
system,??fire up the compressor and watch the low side
pressure.?Next add JUST A TOUCH of refrigerant, and what you want to
achieve are two things
?
#1 Liquid refrigerant going thru the Cap Tube (just listen to the system,
liquid refrigerant will sound different than gas flow thru the Cap tube, I avoid
attaching gauges to the high side of a freon system but you could do this and
note the Pressure/Temp relationship and calculate if your getting a
liquid)
?
#2 The lowest low side pressure possible, while still maintaining item #1
:)
?
If the above doesn't get cold enough for you, either increase the length of
the Cap tube, or decrease it's internal diameter.
?
On my system, I used just a "Squirt" of R-22, a dang near totally closed
valve, ?and my low side actually runs @ -10 inches of mercury as displayed
on the HVAC gauge set during?"normal" operation.
?
BTW, if you have to guess on a Cap tube length, Guess LONGER than you
think.?
?
Also, a trick you might try If you find the low side pressure is still
higher than you want, gently crush the cap tube with a vise, in effect
decreasing its internal diameter. This will add increased restriction to
refrigerant flow, lowering the low side pressure/temp.? Only problem with
this idea is if you "Over do it!" :)
?
Best of luck!? BTW, have any pictures???
?
Take Care,
James Lerch (My telescope construction,testing, and coating site) ? |
Re: Welcome to the group
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
Thanks Andy for the Bio and info on your job... Hmmm, working in a
foundry sounds interesting. Bet that you'd be able to make your own forks for a fork mount there??? Yeah, I hear you about finding a coating chamber. I'm doing a 26.5 inch mirror and NOBODY can Aluminize it for less than a small fortune and I'd have to stand in line forever so decided I'd put one together... Found a 29-1/2 inch tank and a bunch of diffusion pumps and assorted parts still sitting in the barn. Got a few guys here interested for a while but getting it all together has been less than fast. Not even half-fast ;0) so I'm pretty much on my own again. Then a couple weeks ago I was contacted by a guy that had bought a system for some of the goodies and what was left over was what I was looking for so we made a deal and I went to PA to pick it up last week. Once I get it together, I'm going to do Aluminizing and overcoating, maybe thin films too, for ATM's at a reasonable price and fast turn around. It'll be my retirement project and a way to earn some spending money without dipping into what's left of the retirement funds... Take care. Ken Hunter |
Exciting Moments :)
James Lerch
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýGreetings All,
?
To stimulate a little conversation, I thought I'd
recount a few of my more "Exciting" moments during a few recent coating runs
:)
?
Good Times #1
?
Things were going well, but perhaps it was a little
cold for Florida (~40f).? So I'm in the process of evaporating some Al,
actually I was almost done.? Anyway I've got my eyeball right next to my
1/4" thick viewing window, watching the 'Magic' as the coating forms, when I
hear a LOUD "TINK" followed by a hissing noise!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
?
After quickly turning my head away from the chamber
and stepping back a few paces, I waited for the chamber to implode :)?
Thankfully it didn't, but ya never know..?
?
After a few seconds I regained my courage and
started looking around to see what was going on.?
?
In one smooth motion,?I scanned the chamber
and mirror inside, both of which appeared to be in one piece
still.???Next on the list were the pressure gauges, which were
rising rapidly!? I quickly killed the evaporative power source, Cold trap
power and Diff-Pump power, and started closing the Diff-Pump valve as fast as
possible, still not sure what was going on!
?
After venting the chamber, I started
investigating.? First the mirror coat looked pretty funny, with odd waves
going across it.? After a little more investigation, I found the
culprit.? The 2" diameter 1/4" thick plate glass electric pass thru for my
heater power had fractured!!!? The odd waves on the mirror coating were
caused as the air streamed into the chamber, past the evaporating Al, and onto
the mirror.
?
The glass appears to have fractured from thermal
imbalance caused by the "Cold" chamber and the rather hot bolt conducting the
high current into the tungsten heaters.? OOpps :)
?
I've since replaced the 1/4" thick piece of glass
with a nice big square piece of 3/4" thick scrap I had lounging around (BTW, a
diamond wet saw cuts glass like butter!!)? No problems since
then.
?
One good thing I learned from this?is just how
tenaciously my two part Silicone weather strip adhesive holds the glass the
steel!? I thought I could just 'peel' the glass off the chamber with a
razor blade, WRONG.? In the end I used a hammer to pulverize the glass into
dust, which STILL stuck to the?chamber like no tomorrow!? In the end I
had to use a 4" grinder to grind the silicone and remaining bits of glass of the
steel chamber.
?
Good Times #2
?
I'm with a friend, demoing the 'Junkyard Coating
rig',? things are going really smoothly.? We just finished the
fascinating glow discharge light show and had starting evaporating Al, onto the
mirror.?Next thing I know the lights are out and everything is QUITE!?
Ahh HELL the breaker TRIPED!
?
Fortunately I was smart enough to use a
electro-pneumatic valve on the Diff pump fore line, So I know when the power
went off the valve would have snapped shut protecting the hot oil in the diff
pump.? UNFORTUNATLY I wasn't smart enough to turn the switch controlling
the valve off PRIOR to resetting the breaker! (WHOOPS!)
?
Since it took a few minutes to blindly find my way
to the breaker box, AND my rough pump won't hold a vacuum when its turned
off.? The moment I flipped the breaker the diff pump fore line valve
snapped open, exposing the diff pump to the much higher than normal fore line
pressure.? As you can guess this made a NASTY mess inside the chamber, as
the high pressure wave went backwards thru the diff pump and blew hot oil all
inside the chamber!
?
NOTE TO SELF, its time to install that relay and a
pair of push buttons to control the fore line valve!!!? Worse part is I had
considered doing this during the build, but never got around to it :(?
?
The ideal mechanism would be a push button that
would trigger a relay, the relay would in turn power itself AND power the fore
line valve.? To close the valve a second push button would interrupt the
power to the relay, allowing it to turn off, thus powering down the relay AND
closing the fore line valve.? In the event of a power outage, when the
power came back on the valve wouldn't instantly snap open making such a
horrendous MESS! :)
?
I guess we'll chalk this one up to a little "On the
Job Training" :)? Oh, and BTW, the mirror in the chamber was OH MY GOD ugly
:O?
?
Amazing what a little hot oil on fresh Al will
do!
?
?
I guess that's it for interesting experiences
lately, anyone else have some to share?
?
?
Take Care, James Lerch (My telescope construction,testing, and coating site) |
Re: capillary tube vs valve
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
Hi James,
Thanks for the informative post on the Capillary tube usage. I don't know much about those things but I'd have to guess that the capillary tubes I have are about 6-8 feet long (in a 3 inch dia coil), maybe 1/16th inch OD and have a hole so tiny that I can't blow air through them. I can take some photo's later but doubt that you'll be able to see anything. The 3 compressor units came on a frame with my 3 diffusion pumps, valves etc. and 2 of thecapillary tubes were broken off at the point where they were (looks like) soldered into the expansion chamber. I haven't taken them apart to see what's inside but I imagine just a couple inches of the capillary tube is sticking into the chamber. Thought I could re-solder (maybe have to silver solder) the Capillary tube back into the chamber and give it a go to see what happens. I think I have a photo of the valves that also shows the compressors... I'll need to find a set of A/C gauges to give it a try. Interesting that you said just to give it a shot of freon... I gather the idea is to get the maximum pressure differential across the chamber while still delivering a compressed liquid to the chamber to be expanded. I'll try to get some measurements of the Capillary tubing and some photo's this week if it get's warm enough to get outside to the barn. There sure is a lot to learn. Ken Hunter |
Re: capillary tube vs valve
Darald Bantel
On Sun, 2003-01-26 at 08:32, Ken Hunter wrote:
Hi James,Yes - it is necessary to silver solder. If you just use a tin lead (or whatever the newer version is) you run a severe risk of failure. Silver solder done well has a tensile that is higher than your base material where regular tin lead (I think the new version is zinc tin???) is considerably weaker (about 5000# tensile if my information is correct (it was for 37% Sn solder)). Maybe I should introduce myself. I am a machinist with a fair amount of welding experience that also likes to tinker. Astronomy has been something that I have wanted to get into for a long time so I am gathering information and we will see from there. Has anyone here silvered a mirror and then coated it? Just wondering how something like that would work out. Darald |
Re: capillary tube vs valve
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
Hi Darald,
James is the ONE to ask about silvering... He has done quite a few mirrors that way and I believe he's made a few attempts at coating them to prevent tarnishing. I'd bet that he can give you all the info you need to Silver then give you his reasons for Aluminizing too... Check out his web page. The URL for his web site is in the LINKS section <------- over there Ken Hunter --- In VacuumX@..., Darald Bantel <dbantel@t...> wrote: On Sun, 2003-01-26 at 08:32, Ken Hunter wrote:theHi James, blowcapillary tubes I have are about 6-8 feet long (in a 3 inch dia you'llair through them. I can take some photo's later but doubt that pointbe able to see anything. Iwhere they were (looks like) soldered into the expansion chamber. ahaven't taken them apart to see what's inside but I imagine just Capillarycouple inches of the capillary tube is sticking into the chamber. Itube back into the chamber and give it a go to see what happens. compressors...think I have a photo of the valves that also shows the (or whatever the newer version is) you run a severe risk of failure.Silver solder done well has a tensile that is higher than your basematerial where regular tin lead (I think the new version is zinc tin???) iscorrect (it was for 37% Sn solder)).Interesting idea isthat you said just to give it a shot of freon... I gather the expanded.to get the maximum pressure differential across the chamber while some barn.photo's this week if it get's warm enough to get outside to the amount ofMaybe I should introduce myself. I am a machinist with a fair welding experience that also likes to tinker. Astronomy has been |
Near Field Evaporative simulation update.
James Lerch
Greetings All,
Thanks to Peter Baird, I've added the option in my simulation code to support multiple evaporating rings. An interesting result from this experiment shows that it should be feasible to construct a 12" diameter by 5" tall chamber. The downside of course is the need for 19 separate tungsten evaporating coils! While this might not be feasible for such a small chamber, when constructing my next chamber (20-30" diameter) it might just be worth the effort! The main benefit of such a short chamber would be the reduction in chamber volume, thus allowing the use of smaller pumps and faster pump down time! To implement such a wiring nightmare might be interesting, but I'm wondering if I might be able to mass produce some Ceramic electric pass throughs. Something that would just require drilling a hole in the chamber, then drop the pass thru in, and seal with an O-ring.. (still working out the details :) Anyone ever seen anything like this? new Near Field Evaporative Simulator code is available from here: (8.6KB) Take Care, James Lerch (My telescope construction,testing, and coating site) |
feedthrough
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
James,
In my photo folder I have added something you might want to consider. It is a common item found at most any Hardware store and it's called a "wellnut". They come in various sizes and I imagine that it could be used as a cheap feedthrough for electrical purposes. I don't have an assembled system yet to test the idea but you do! It would work just like the botttom plug on a small boat. Put it into a hole, pass a bolt through and tighten it up. The rubber will compress sealing against the smooth shoulder on the bolt and the (hopefully smooth) sides of the hole. The pass-through bolt becomes the conductor. Ken Hunter --- In VacuumX@..., "James Lerch" <jlerch1@t...> wrote: To implement such a wiring nightmare might be interesting, but I'mwondering if I might be able to mass produce some Ceramic electric passthroughs. Something that would just require drilling a hole in the chamber,then drop the pass thru in, and seal with an O-ring.. (still working out thedetails :) Anyone ever seen anything like this? |
Feed-thru's
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
James,
I've added a photo to my folder that might be what you are asking for. It's a common item found at hardware stores and is called a "wellnut". I imagine it would work like the hole plug at the bottom of a small boat. You drill the hole, put in the wellnut, insert the bolt and tighten. The rubber compressess and tightens against the sholder on the bolt and the sides of the hole. The bolt becomes the conductor. It's available in various sizes. Ken Hunter --- In VacuumX@..., "James Lerch" <jlerch1@t...> wrote: To implement such a wiring nightmare might be interesting, but I'mwondering if I might be able to mass produce some Ceramic electric passthroughs. Something that would just require drilling a hole in the chamber,then drop the pass thru in, and seal with an O-ring.. (still working out thedetails :) Anyone ever seen anything like this? |
Feed-thru's ^
Ken Hunter <[email protected]>
Changed the Group photo so you wouldn't have to chase down the photo
of the Feed-Thru idea I have... If you have any photo's that you would like to submit to the Group, please do. I'll rotate all submitted photo's through the Group's home page as time permits. Ken Hunter |
Re: Feed-thru's ^
James Lerch
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýKen,
?
Wish I had heard of those feed-thrus a few month's
ago :)? Would have saved a ton of work!?
?
?
Take Care,
James Lerch (My telescope construction,testing, and coating site)
|
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