Yeah, you can't use anything even slightly abrasives to remove rust
from any of the bearing/wiping/sliding surfaces such as shafts and
vanes and valve seats and so forth.
If there is pitting or a change in the shape or surface quality of
the cleaned steel, that part is scrap.
On Feb 14, 2013, at 5:22 AM, Russell Shaw wrote:
On 14/02/13 02:36, Vaughn Mcdowell wrote:
...
Regarding freeze up besides rust rotor and stator components keeping then from
sliding; I should have mentioned when I was working on my 1402; the components
were somewhat frozen ( hard to rotate the shaft) because the rotor and stator
were not lined up correctly ( as suggested from the Sam's FAQ) ; that's why I
assembled it with the bolts loose then rotated the shaft with the system in oil;
then later tightened the bolts; did not have the alignment paper as discussed in
the FAQ link; so I assumed this to be the next best thing working in the dark (
ie limited information found on the Web) . Another incident occured with a 1400
that I bought for very cheep had the vane rod bent keeping the vane from sliding
in and out the rotor.
For rust-removal, evaporust is good because it dissolves rust instead of
converting it like other stuff. It works better when warm > 20-25degC.
Complete immersion or continuous spraying with a jet is best.
The 1402 that I recently got on Ebay didn't have exhaust or air intake
components. With my limited knowledge as to where to get replacement components;
found out the nipple replacements were outside the beer budget. After finding
the required thread 1-20 I found
and
purchased three. With my metal lathe the hole was enlarged to fit a hose barb
purchased from the hardware store. The intake was assembled using solder. I then
used the Loctite 592 with Teflon tape; seems to work OK.
You could make an oil mist output filter using a car oil or air filter.
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
- Bill "Gomez" Lemieux,
The Highland Tinker
