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Tapping drill chucks for M12x1

Carl All Messages By This Member #54933 开云体育 Hi Gang: This is almost what I do, the big difference I put a dowel pin in the lathe for the drill chuck to clamp on. If the dowel pin is running true, the clamping surfaces of the chuck are too. Then I'm very gentle about drilling / boring before the tapping. And I think it reaches the possible limits of a three jaw drill chuck to be consistent. Next I should get an Albrecht chuck for my Unimat, they are the best. Carl. On 4/25/2020 2:08 AM, lesorton@... wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text When I got my Unimat SL it had a 3 jaw chuck and a 4 jaw chuck, not self centering. I bought a 10mm drill chuck that had a B2 I believe taper in it. I clamped the drill chuck in the 4 jaw chuck and made sure it was running true. I bored out the back to 11mm and then put the M12x1 tap in using a fixed centre in the tailstock to make sure it was aligned. I tapped the M12x1 then bored the 12mm section. It worked fine with only a small run-out.
OldToolmaker All Messages By This Member #54934 Hi Carl, I was assuming the chuck body was able to be machined and not too hard. That makes it very doable. Dick
Carl All Messages By This Member #54935 开云体育 Hello Dick: You are right, the body is mild steel where you need to cut. That is how I did the threads on my ER32 Chuck: /g/Unimat/photo/195716/4?p=Name,,er32,20,1,0,0 Carl. On 4/25/2020 1:22 PM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Hi Carl, I was assuming the chuck body was able to be machined and not too hard. That makes it very doable. Dick

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