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Morning all,
Does anyone use their jig and sabre saw attachment on their unimat if so;
1. Is it functional or just a novelty??
2. Are blades available? I presume the normal jigsaw blades will work for the sabre saw but the thin blades look very different and most likely unavailable.
Some thought from owners and users would be much appreciated
Dave
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I've never had the earlier version for the cast iron Unimat so cannot comment but I have the later attachment for the SL1000.
It does work, and quite well too. However it's much less convenient than a standalone machine.
Blades are just regular plain ended type and are still available. The thin ones you mention are probably just jeweller's saw blades.
You might be interested in this video:
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I have I guess the later versions of the jig/sabre saw and the circular saw. ?I have never been able to find original or replacement Unimat jigsaw blades so I have made do with Stanley coping saw blades eg?. ?I break them a few cm short and drive out the retaining pin and it’s a reasonable substitute.
The issues I have with it are mainly the usual unimat ones of the effective working space. ?You use the headstock raising block but the standard motor arrangement still intrudes on the work surface so that you only have about 10cm flat to the left of the blade. ?In use it is a bit noisy, inevitably because rigid material will amplify the oscillating saw, and when cutting wood, it showers the ways with fine, oil-absorbing sawdust, so cleaning up is a chore. ?The blade does wander a lot, partly because it is tricky to get the blade aligned precisely and then keep it aligned given the furious vibrations of sawing. ?But practice helps of course. ?Thin blades will wander more of course and are harder to keep locked on. ?I don’t often use it because of the setup and takedown time and the fact that it is therefore difficult to switch between unimat modes - fretting by hand is usually quicker unless I have a whole lot of stuff ready, eg plywood to cut up into stock boxes for my models. ?I would struggle to use it for fine metalwork, for which I use a piercing saw/jewellers saw, by hand.
The circular sawbed has the same space limitations and setup and takedown issues. ?I have intended to make a better fence for it by desecrating the original table, and a fence for the jigsaw too although that might sound like a contradiction to the jigsaw’s purpose. ?The point there is that I get more use from the jigsaw than the circular saw.
Regards? Mehmood?
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On 30 Apr 2023, at 11:22, Unimat Matt <matthewtay2020@...> wrote:
?I've never had the earlier version for the cast iron Unimat so cannot comment but I have the later attachment for the SL1000.
It does work, and quite well too. However it's much less convenient than a standalone machine.
Blades are just regular plain ended type and are still available. The thin ones you mention are probably just jeweller's saw blades.
You might be interested in this video:
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Thanks for the feedback, I don't have a saw but was wondering if it was worth it to buy one. Sounds like it is more hassle than fun.
Dave
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I have owned both at one time. The older cast iron version for the DB200 has a spring blade tension and the newer version for the SL uses a solid blade guide slot and may be easier to use.
Dick
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http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Thanks for the feedback.? My question to all is, is it worth buying one to use or not?
Dave
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Of course it depends on how severe your particular case of techno lust is. ? A real stand alone machine is almost always preferable but space and cost can preclude that. They do work, but with limits that have been well spelled out in previous responses. Based on that information think out what your particular needs and budget are and proceed accordingly.?
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On Apr 30, 2023, at 9:32 AM, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:
?Thanks for the feedback.? My question to all is, is it worth buying one to use or not?
Dave
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Hello, Dave!
It would not be worth the cost to me.
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Hi
Gang:
One of
the advantages of the Unimat saws is speed control. I can slow
my Unimat table saw down to where it doesn't melt plastic and
still have the torque to cut.
I don't
have the scroll saw, but I think slower speeds would help
there too.
On 4/30/2023 8:11 AM, David James via
groups.io wrote:
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Thanks for the feedback, I don't have a saw but was wondering if
it was worth it to buy one. Sounds like it is more hassle than
fun.
Dave
|
Look up on Amazon “German style jewelers saw”. They are available for around $13 for a saw frame and 144 blades. ?
I am sure that true made in Germany blades would be a higher quality. ?That said I have used both inexpensive and German or Swiss made blades. The difference in quality was difficult to quantify (a little smoother, lasted a little longer) and prices were like $10 a package of 20 or 30 versus around $20-30 a package. Micromark and Lee Valley have good quality ones. Amazon has all types and qualities.?
The Unimat saw frame appears to be a clamp type design for plain end jewelers blades.?
Before laying out a few hundred dollars for the Unimat attachment, get a saw frame and some blades to see if they work for you in a hand saw frame. If yes then the saw frame attachment will work for your needs.?
I would start on one of those sites and look for “metal cutting” description. Those blades are useful and work better than you might think, even by hand.?
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On Apr 29, 2023, at 8:58 PM, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:
?Morning all,
Does anyone use their jig and sabre saw attachment on their unimat if so;
1. Is it functional or just a novelty??
2. Are blades available? I presume the normal jigsaw blades will work for the sabre saw but the thin blades look very different and most likely unavailable.
Some thought from owners and users would be much appreciated
Dave
|
Hi Dave,
I'm in the camp of a dedicated saw would be better. Small enough to store under a bench. Mainly, I'm too impatient when it comes to reconfiguring tools, would rather just have the separate tool, which is why I have a 2nd Unimat that will be setup as a mill. The other reason is that I don't want to cut wood or do any grinding that would get sawdust/grit on the lead screws/ways.
Steve
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Hello, Dave!
It would not be worth the cost to me.
--
forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Yes, a hand driven piercing saw (UK) aka jeweller’s saw (USA) will serve most fine sheet metalworking needs. ?The blades are not a substitute for unimat jigsaw blades, they are far too thin. ?(And 144 blades in a pack will probably be fully accounted for in just a few days’ work in the hand frame so isn’t a bulk bargain, more like business as usual.)
The unimat jigsaw naturally has to cut on the downstroke, pressing the work against the table, and the eccentric therefore cuts by ?pulling from below. ?That’s fine. ?But the upstroke is equally energetic and the upper end of the blade is not secured to anything. ? It is held in place only by the vertical slot in the guide rod. ?So the jigsaw blade has to be rigid enough to resist buckling against the resistance of the workpiece and horizontal pressure from the operator. ?That is all fairly obvious when you look at the setup, but it means that fine piercing saw blades will just disintegrate if you try to use them in the Unimat jigsaw. ?I’m sure there are other alternatives to the Stanley blades I use in it, but they are thick enough to work reliably.
Meanwhile, fine sheet metal work is best done with a handheld piercing saw.
Regards?
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On 1 May 2023, at 15:05, Tool247 <Sjkochan@...> wrote:
? Look up on Amazon “German style jewelers saw”. They are available for around $13 for a saw frame and 144 blades. ?
I am sure that true made in Germany blades would be a higher quality. ?That said I have used both inexpensive and German or Swiss made blades. The difference in quality was difficult to quantify (a little smoother, lasted a little longer) and prices were like $10 a package of 20 or 30 versus around $20-30 a package. Micromark and Lee Valley have good quality ones. Amazon has all types and qualities.?
The Unimat saw frame appears to be a clamp type design for plain end jewelers blades.?
Before laying out a few hundred dollars for the Unimat attachment, get a saw frame and some blades to see if they work for you in a hand saw frame. If yes then the saw frame attachment will work for your needs.?
I would start on one of those sites and look for “metal cutting” description. Those blades are useful and work better than you might think, even by hand.? On Apr 29, 2023, at 8:58 PM, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:
?Morning all,
Does anyone use their jig and sabre saw attachment on their unimat if so;
1. Is it functional or just a novelty??
2. Are blades available? I presume the normal jigsaw blades will work for the sabre saw but the thin blades look very different and most likely unavailable.
Some thought from owners and users would be much appreciated
Dave
|
I have the round cast iron table, return arm and drive cam for the 1070 scroll saw attachment but I a am missing the table support and drive parts,maybe someday I'll find the parts to make it complete.
I presume standard 5" scroll saw blades can be used on the Unimat DB/SL scroll saw. I have used them to cut wood, plastic and non ferrous metal on my full sized scroll saw.
You must not run the saw so fast that the spring tension does not have time to pull the blade up on the return stroke, the blade must remain under tension at all times or it will flex and break.
Let the saw do the cutting, do not apply too feed much pressure on the blade, too much pressure can cause the blade to flex and cut in an arc giving poor results on thicker material not to mention overheating the blade causing premature dulling and/or breakage.
A bit of a primer on choosing scroll saw blades can be found here:
Richard B.
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Jewelers saws are available in hard back wide versions that are 2 or 3 mm wide. They have a reasonable stiffness. Like a small hacksaw blade and designed with plain ends for clamped attachment. ??
There are many different types.?
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On May 1, 2023, at 2:34 PM, Mehmood Naqshbandi <mehmood.naqshbandi@...> wrote:
? Yes, a hand driven piercing saw (UK) aka jeweller’s saw (USA) will serve most fine sheet metalworking needs. ?The blades are not a substitute for unimat jigsaw blades, they are far too thin. ?(And 144 blades in a pack will probably be fully accounted for in just a few days’ work in the hand frame so isn’t a bulk bargain, more like business as usual.)
The unimat jigsaw naturally has to cut on the downstroke, pressing the work against the table, and the eccentric therefore cuts by ?pulling from below. ?That’s fine. ?But the upstroke is equally energetic and the upper end of the blade is not secured to anything. ? It is held in place only by the vertical slot in the guide rod. ?So the jigsaw blade has to be rigid enough to resist buckling against the resistance of the workpiece and horizontal pressure from the operator. ?That is all fairly obvious when you look at the setup, but it means that fine piercing saw blades will just disintegrate if you try to use them in the Unimat jigsaw. ?I’m sure there are other alternatives to the Stanley blades I use in it, but they are thick enough to work reliably.
Meanwhile, fine sheet metal work is best done with a handheld piercing saw.
Regards? Mehmood? On 1 May 2023, at 15:05, Tool247 <Sjkochan@...> wrote:
? Look up on Amazon “German style jewelers saw”. They are available for around $13 for a saw frame and 144 blades. ?
I am sure that true made in Germany blades would be a higher quality. ?That said I have used both inexpensive and German or Swiss made blades. The difference in quality was difficult to quantify (a little smoother, lasted a little longer) and prices were like $10 a package of 20 or 30 versus around $20-30 a package. Micromark and Lee Valley have good quality ones. Amazon has all types and qualities.?
The Unimat saw frame appears to be a clamp type design for plain end jewelers blades.?
Before laying out a few hundred dollars for the Unimat attachment, get a saw frame and some blades to see if they work for you in a hand saw frame. If yes then the saw frame attachment will work for your needs.?
I would start on one of those sites and look for “metal cutting” description. Those blades are useful and work better than you might think, even by hand.? On Apr 29, 2023, at 8:58 PM, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:
?Morning all,
Does anyone use their jig and sabre saw attachment on their unimat if so;
1. Is it functional or just a novelty??
2. Are blades available? I presume the normal jigsaw blades will work for the sabre saw but the thin blades look very different and most likely unavailable.
Some thought from owners and users would be much appreciated
Dave
|
I think we are probably at crossed purposes here. ?The point is that any blade for the Unimat jigsaw will have to be fairly stiff to work. ?There is no mechanism for tensioning the blade, unlike a with jeweller’s/piercing saw.
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On 1 May 2023, at 20:37, Richard Burrows <bluerandonee@...> wrote:
?I have the round cast iron table, return arm and drive cam for the 1070 scroll saw attachment but I a am missing the table support and drive parts,maybe someday I'll find the parts to make it complete.
I presume standard 5" scroll saw blades can be used on the Unimat DB/SL scroll saw. I have used them to cut wood, plastic and non ferrous metal on my full sized scroll saw.
You must not run the saw so fast that the spring tension does not have time to pull the blade up on the return stroke, the blade must remain under tension at all times or it will flex and break.
Let the saw do the cutting, do not apply too feed much pressure on the blade, too much pressure can cause the blade to flex and cut in an arc giving poor results on thicker material not to mention overheating the blade causing premature dulling and/or breakage.
A bit of a primer on choosing scroll saw blades can be found here:
Richard B.
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the Unimat 1070 scroll saw attachment does have a tension spring... and can use scroll saw blades. 
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Ah. ?We are at cross purposes. ?I was describing the jigsaw, eg. ?  (Picture copied off the web).
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On 1 May 2023, at 21:49, Richard Burrows <bluerandonee@...> wrote:
?the Unimat 1070 scroll saw attachment does have a tension spring... and can use scroll saw blades.
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The image you supplied is the Unimat 1080 fret saw attachment.
I presume the OP can choose which he wants depending on his needs.
Of course if he is not buying to expand his Unimat collection he could just buy a dedicated tabletop scroll saw which has a bigger (16") throat for less money.
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David James
Unimat Matt
OldToolmaker
Tom Angell
Carl
Tool247
Steve Johnson