Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory

[email protected] All Messages By This Member #63712 Hello everybody, Nice to discover other amateurs of the Emco Unimat! I just removed mine from the attic where it was sleeping for more than 50 years and now I am in the process of learning to use it. And I already come up with a question: Does anybody knows the details of the saw blade for the jig saw? Up to now I haven't been able to find a reseller for the right size of blades. I found small blades, but they don't withstand to the fact that they are only clamped on the underside and therefore they bend after a very short use. The main use would be for fine wooden workpieces. As I am living in Belgium, it would be nice if somebody can indicate me an Internet shop for this blades. ? Thanks in advance!
clankennedy2004 All Messages By This Member #63713 Could you not make one ? Use a Recip Saw Blade or hacksaw blade depending on the TPI /Blade thickness you need and make it to suit. You might need to anneal the blade in some areas to drill a hole for instance. But most adaptations to the blade could be done using a cutting disc or even a grinder ! :/ Just my thoughts as I have never used this attachment nor do i own a unimat :/ Kind Regards and Good Luck. On Wednesday, 18 September 2024 at 13:38:08 BST, michel.lebacq via groups.io <michel.lebacq@...> wrote: Hello everybody, Nice to discover other amateurs of the Emco Unimat! I just removed mine from the attic where it was sleeping for more than 50 years and now I am in the process of learning to use it. And I already come up with a question: Does anybody knows the details of the saw blade for the jig saw? Up to now I haven't been able to find a reseller for the right size of blades. I found small blades, but they don't withstand to the fact that they are only clamped on the underside and therefore they bend after a very short use. The main use would be for fine wooden workpieces. As I am living in Belgium, it would be nice if somebody can indicate me an Internet shop for this blades. ? Thanks in advance!
John Rausch All Messages By This Member #63714 I can't offer you a source, but here is the only blade I have for my jigsaw. It is 2mm from the teeth to the back of the blade and 0.8mm thick. P1090580.JPG
Mehmood All Messages By This Member #63715 开云体育 I’ve never seen any available for sale. ?I make do with Stanley 160mm coping saw blades, cutting/snapping approximately 4cm off one end and pressing out the retaining pin from the other end. ?They are not as stiff as the proper ones should be, but they work well enough. 15TPI blades are Stanley part number 0-15-061. ?Probably other similar makes are just as good. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 18 Sep 2024, at 16:15, John Rausch <jjrausch@...> wrote: ? I can't offer you a source, but here is the only blade I have for my jigsaw. It is 2mm from the teeth to the back of the blade and 0.8mm thick. <P1090580.JPG>
[email protected] All Messages By This Member #63716 Hello, Thanks to everybody who helped me with answers. I think indeed that there is no regular source and that I will have to make something starting from other existing sawblades. ? That is always possible but I would have prefered to find the right ones on the market. ? I was very glad receiving many answers so fast. Many thanks again!
Peter ashby All Messages By This Member #63717 could you use a slitting saw and arbour designed for a mill, it could probably be held in the chuck for light work On Thu, 19 Sep 2024 04:04:47 -0700 "michel.lebacq via groups.io" <michel.lebacq@...> wrote: Hello, Thanks to everybody who helped me with answers. I think indeed that there is no regular source and that I will have to make something starting from other existing sawblades. That is always possible but I would have prefered to find the right ones on the market. I was very glad receiving many answers so fast. Many thanks again! -- Peter Ashby <aescinga.pgen@...>
McKee, Don {Quaker} All Messages By This Member #63718 Never having seen either the jig-saw attachment clamp, or an original Emco jig-saw blade it SOUNDS like they had some custom blades made for their saw.? Probably about as thick as a normal jig-saw blade, with a width somewhere between a normal scroll saw blade and a normal jig-saw blade?? That would give you a reasonable stiffness for the blade, since the top end of the blade is un-supported - I think. ? Would a normal jig-saw blade in a narrow format, something like the Disston 6444/E0102226 work?? If the Tee mounting style for that blade wont work, you could always try whacking that off with a cut-off disc and using the rest of the blade.? That Disston blade is 2-3/4" long, and I know Milwaukee and Bosch make similar format blades that are up to 4-1/2" long.? (Not sure about their TPI.)? Although I can't see the wimpy little Unimat motor as being able to handle very thick material. ? Don
fred All Messages By This Member #63719 You need a fretsaw or scroll saw blade depends where you live what it is called? In use lower the top guide close to work piece whilst still allowing you to see where blade is cutting This will reduce flex and breakage Fred toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Thu Sep 19 2024 McKee, Don {Quaker} <donmckee@...> wrote: ---------- Original Message ---------- Never having seen either the jig-saw attachment clamp, or an original Emco jig-saw blade it SOUNDS like they had some custom blades made for their saw.? Probably about as thick as a normal jig-saw blade, with a width somewhere between a normal scroll saw blade and a normal jig-saw blade?? That would give you a reasonable stiffness for the blade, since the top end of the blade is un-supported - I think. ? Would a normal jig-saw blade in a narrow format, something like the Disston 6444/E0102226 work?? If the Tee mounting style for that blade wont work, you could always try whacking that off with a cut-off disc and using the rest of the blade.? That Disston blade is 2-3/4" long, and I know Milwaukee and Bosch make similar format blades that are up to 4-1/2" long.? (Not sure about their TPI.)? Although I can't see the wimpy little Unimat motor as being able to handle very thick material. ? Don
John Dammeyer All Messages By This Member #63720 开云体育 I found this video on the installation of the jig saw attachment.?? Pretty boring for the most part.? He only used one of the two required screws to hold the assembly to the rails and never did install a jig saw blade.? Interesting installation of digital scale on the Z axis though. ? ? Now that I know what the Unimat Jigsaw attachment looks like the search term on google should be “Jewelry Saw Blades”. ? or ? I’ve been using these types of blades since I was about 10 years old. ? ? ? toggle quoted message Show quoted text From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of michel.lebacq via groups.io Sent: September 19, 2024 4:05 AM To: Mehmood; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory ? Hello, Thanks to everybody who helped me with answers. I think indeed that there is no regular source and that I will have to make something starting from other existing sawblades. ? That is always possible but I would have prefered to find the right ones on the market. ? I was very glad receiving many answers so fast. Many thanks again!
John Dammeyer All Messages By This Member #63721 开云体育 They are also called scroll saws. ? ? toggle quoted message Show quoted text From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Dammeyer Sent: September 19, 2024 8:53 AM To: [email protected]; michel.lebacq@... Subject: Re: [Unimat] Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory ? I found this video on the installation of the jig saw attachment.?? Pretty boring for the most part.? He only used one of the two required screws to hold the assembly to the rails and never did install a jig saw blade.? Interesting installation of digital scale on the Z axis though. ? ? Now that I know what the Unimat Jigsaw attachment looks like the search term on google should be “Jewelry Saw Blades”. ? or ? I’ve been using these types of blades since I was about 10 years old. ? ? ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of michel.lebacq via groups.io Sent: September 19, 2024 4:05 AM To: Mehmood; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory ? Hello, Thanks to everybody who helped me with answers. I think indeed that there is no regular source and that I will have to make something starting from other existing sawblades. ? That is always possible but I would have prefered to find the right ones on the market. ? I was very glad receiving many answers so fast. Many thanks again!
Herman de Leeuw All Messages By This Member #63732 Bonsoir, Micehl, ? Apologies for the late input but if you would not mind visiting a Dutch language website, please check out. They specialize in jig saw blades and have a whole section on machine jig saw blades. Just one, perhaps really obvious advice beforehand: The cutting action should always be towards the downward stroke. ? ? ? ? Herman toggle quoted message Show quoted text Op 19-09-2024 13:04 CEST schreef michel.lebacq via groups.io <michel.lebacq@...>: ? ? Hello, Thanks to everybody who helped me with answers. I think indeed that there is no regular source and that I will have to make something starting from other existing sawblades. ? That is always possible but I would have prefered to find the right ones on the market. ? I was very glad receiving many answers so fast. Many thanks again!
Richard Burrows All Messages By This Member #63733 The Unimat scroll saw uses a spring arm to maintain tension on the blade. ? With spring tension return jig saws when you run the saw too fast the spring does not have time to return and can not keep the blade under continuous tension, this causes the blade to flex and the blade will fail from repeated bending. (Think of bending a solid wire over and over, it gets hot at the bend and then it breaks at the bend from metal fatigue.) ? Thin fret and scroll saw blades can make tighter turns but you must keep the speed very low to maintain spring tension and avoid blade flex since the thin blade flexes more and it doesn't take long to fatigue the thin metal. Thicker jig saw blades can last longer at slightly higher speeds since they don't flex quite as much but they can't make tight turns. ? Modern types of scroll saws use a parallelogram drive mechanism to maintain constant blade tension and also keep the blade perpendicular to the table through each stroke (assuming the table is not set at an angle) so the saw can be run much faster without premature blade failure. ? Of course there are other factors that contribute to premature blade failure such using a blade which has too many or too few teeth for the material, cutting stock that is too thick, or pushing the material into the blade too fast, all this can overheat and/or flex the blade causing it to fail no matter what saw you are using. ? Push the stock into the blade only as fast as it cuts, don't get in a hurry and force it. ? Also the teeth must cut toward the table.... ? Richard ?
Richard Burrows All Messages By This Member #63734 Here is a URL to a site that sells scroll saw blades, you probably need 5". They come in 6 and 12 packs which tells you they break pretty often. I have used this brand with my modern scroll saw. The thicker ones should work fine as long as you keep the speed slow. ? Richard ? ?
Herman de Leeuw All Messages By This Member #63735 Thank you for this useful explanation!? Just one comment: The spring arm is in use with the DB and SL scroll saws but the Unimat 3 has no spring arm; the fret saw’s tension at the U3 depends on the downward cutting force, with the fret saw moving inside a somewhat tight tube that is held in place by the arm, without any spring involved. Verzonden vanuit ? toggle quoted message Show quoted text Van: Richard Burrows <bluerandonee@...> Verzonden: vrijdag, september 20, 2024 10:53 PM Aan: Herman de Leeuw <herman.deleeuw@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]> Onderwerp: Re: [Unimat] Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory ? The Unimat scroll saw uses a spring arm to maintain tension on the blade. ? With spring tension return jig saws when you run the saw too fast the spring does not have time to return and can not keep the blade under continuous tension, this causes the blade to flex and the blade will fail from repeated bending. (Think of bending a solid wire over and over, it gets hot at the bend and then it breaks at the bend from metal fatigue.) ? Thin fret and scroll saw blades can make tighter turns but you must keep the speed very low to maintain spring tension and avoid blade flex since the thin blade flexes more and it doesn't take long to fatigue the thin metal. Thicker jig saw blades can last longer at slightly higher speeds since they don't flex quite as much but they can't make tight turns. ? Modern types of scroll saws use a parallelogram drive mechanism to maintain constant blade tension and also keep the blade perpendicular to the table through each stroke (assuming the table is not set at an angle) so the saw can be run much faster without premature blade failure. ? Of course there are other factors that contribute to premature blade failure such using a blade which has too many or too few teeth for the material, cutting stock that is too thick, or pushing the material into the blade too fast, all this can overheat and/or flex the blade causing it to fail no matter what saw you are using. ? Push the stock into the blade only as fast as it cuts, don't get in a hurry and force it. ? Also the teeth must cut toward the table.... ? Richard ? Verzonden vanuit
Gerald Feldman All Messages By This Member #63736 开云体育 Your description is more like that of the fret saw for the DB-200 /SL (which is the saw that I have). ?How about including a picture of your saw that shows all of its parts so any advise we provide will be appropriate for the saw you actually have.? ? Thanks, ? Jerry F.? ? toggle quoted message Show quoted text From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Herman de Leeuw via groups.io Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2024 1:04 AM To: Richard Burrows; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory ? Thank you for this useful explanation!? ? Just one comment: The spring arm is in use with the DB and SL scroll saws but the Unimat 3 has no spring arm; the fret saw’s tension at the U3 depends on the downward cutting force, with the fret saw moving inside a somewhat tight tube that is held in place by the arm, without any spring involved. ? Verzonden vanuit ? Van: Richard Burrows <bluerandonee@...> Verzonden: vrijdag, september 20, 2024 10:53 PM Aan: Herman de Leeuw <herman.deleeuw@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]> Onderwerp: Re: [Unimat] Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory ? The Unimat scroll saw uses a spring arm to maintain tension on the blade. ? With spring tension return jig saws when you run the saw too fast the spring does not have time to return and can not keep the blade under continuous tension, this causes the blade to flex and the blade will fail from repeated bending. (Think of bending a solid wire over and over, it gets hot at the bend and then it breaks at the bend from metal fatigue.) ? Thin fret and scroll saw blades can make tighter turns but you must keep the speed very low to maintain spring tension and avoid blade flex since the thin blade flexes more and it doesn't take long to fatigue the thin metal. Thicker jig saw blades can last longer at slightly higher speeds since they don't flex quite as much but they can't make tight turns. ? Modern types of scroll saws use a parallelogram drive mechanism to maintain constant blade tension and also keep the blade perpendicular to the table through each stroke (assuming the table is not set at an angle) so the saw can be run much faster without premature blade failure. ? Of course there are other factors that contribute to premature blade failure such using a blade which has too many or too few teeth for the material, cutting stock that is too thick, or pushing the material into the blade too fast, all this can overheat and/or flex the blade causing it to fail no matter what saw you are using. ? Push the stock into the blade only as fast as it cuts, don't get in a hurry and force it. ? Also the teeth must cut toward the table.... ? Richard ? ? Verzonden vanuit
Richard Burrows All Messages By This Member #63737 I have the model 1070 saw with round table and a spring arm so I was referring to this model in my explanation. The principal remains the same, the object is to eliminate blade flex. ? I see the later models use a blade guide tube assembly so I presume there is no return spring inside the tube. My guess this blade guide tube would need to be adjusted down to the just above the surface of the stock being cut to eliminate blade flex. There may also be some way to adjust for the width of the blade but I can find no references to it's function. ? There are instructions for using the later (model 1080) Jigsaw and Saber saw attachment to be found in the files section under "1971 Miniature Machining Techniques Part 2" on page 39. This is for the DB/SL models but it looks like the mechanism is essentially? the same as the Unimat 3 Jigsaw and Saber saw accessory. here is the URL: /g/Unimat/files/Unimat_Too/Miniature%20Machining%20Technique/1971%20Miniature%20Machining%20Techniques%20Part%202.pdf ? By the way there is a difference between scroll saw and jig saw blades, jig saw blades have a set to the teeth which makes a wider kerf and scroll saw blades do not have a set so the kerf is the actual width of the blade. Now reciprocating (saber) saw blades are often called of as? jig saw blades. ? This is the type 1070 scroll saw attachment I have. The blade return spring is the long thin metal section attached to the arm. ? This is a picture of a vintage jig saw before "Jig Saw" became generic for what is actually a hand held reciprocating saw. Notice the cylinder on the arm above the table, this is where the blade return spring is housed. ?
[email protected] All Messages By This Member #63794 Many thanks for your suggestion. However I am based in Europe, so I am not sure they would send oversea. In the meantime, I also received a suggestion by Herman De Leeuw for a Dutch reseller, where I already bought the blades. Anyway I thank you for your help!
[email protected] All Messages By This Member #63795 Hallo Herman, Thanks for your suggestion, I already ordered and received the blades from "Machine-figuurzaagjes". Net wat ik zocht!
Herman de Leeuw All Messages By This Member #63796 You’re very welcome, Michel, glad the blades suit the job!! Verzonden vanuit ? toggle quoted message Show quoted text Van: via groups.io <michel.lebacq@...> Verzonden: vrijdag, oktober 4, 2024 10:30 AM Aan: Herman de Leeuw <herman.deleeuw@...>; [email protected] <Unimat@groupsio> Onderwerp: Re: [Unimat] Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory ? Hallo Herman, Thanks for your suggestion, I already ordered and received the blades from "Machine-figuurzaagjes". Net wat ik zocht! Verzonden vanuit
OldToolmaker All Messages By This Member #64059 Saw blades for the Unimat fret saw are available in most big box stores such as Menards and Home Depot. ?Also known as coping saw blades. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

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Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory

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