Thank You for all of the replies.? I found a site that shows RAL paint colors. It seems that the 7047 gray may be too dark, but it is an image of it. There are some possibilities in their white category that look close.? ?We still have an automotive paint store here that handles PPG paints. I probably should have gone there at first but was looking for some kind of common off the shelf substitute.? Not that big of a deal. The paint store does offer custom mixed spray cans. If it works out, I will post the price and results of it.?
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I have inserts planned for some places and a test of a long through hole, threaded M8x1 left handed for the lead screw. We will see. The proper tap is due here Monday. I hope it works¡ this is what I¡¯m making.? It was intended to be a compound rest for the Unimat, but I think it is too tall. I will finish it, maybe it will be useful for something else. Also, I am working on a built in QCTP version.?  I need to finish this one to prove it works, then print this top piece.? 
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Someone on facebook said "RAL 7047? - Telegrey4"
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Good work? PLA+ machines nicely. Threads OK if you dont need strength.
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@clankennedy2004?
I¡¯m not sure what you are talking about. I don¡¯t want a wooden compound rest for anything, but I do think that PLA+ will make a good one for this application. And, I¡¯m not worried about microplastics. Too much worry about nonsense. I guess you comment was just a space filler.
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Sorry but i cant help but think we sometimes try to reinvent the wheel ! Block of wood. Drill some holes. Not sure but might have done the same job ! Also would have prevented the release of more microplastics into the environment, wormy or not ! :/
Just Sayin :/
On Saturday, 23 March 2024 at 21:02:03 GMT, John Entwistle via groups.io <jentwistle3@...> wrote:
Woo hoo, the Unimat comes through!
On Mar 23, 2024, at 4:51?PM, Nevadablue <nevadablue@...> wrote: ?I made a couple of items from PLA+ and of course got warping on the bottom of them. That caused me to dig out my poor old neglected Unimat. After finding enough parts to be able to use the mill, and fiddling with setup, I have successfully machined the plastic. These parts are solid, 8 walls, 6 top and bottom layers and 100% infill.? There are lines on the surface, small and insignificant for this project. The mill head is good side to side but slightly off from front to back. The only way I know to fix that is by using a tiny shim under the mill base. This is the column mounted mill that is independent from the lathe bed.? I used a solid carbide end mill. The ¡®chips¡¯ are fuzz and ¡®worms¡¯. No melting, just sticking together made the worms. Easy cleanup.? <IMG_5462.jpeg> And with the fuzz wiped off the part: <IMG_5463.jpeg>
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Woo hoo, the Unimat comes through!
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On Mar 23, 2024, at 4:51?PM, Nevadablue <nevadablue@...> wrote: ?I made a couple of items from PLA+ and of course got warping on the bottom of them. That caused me to dig out my poor old neglected Unimat. After finding enough parts to be able to use the mill, and fiddling with setup, I have successfully machined the plastic. These parts are solid, 8 walls, 6 top and bottom layers and 100% infill.? There are lines on the surface, small and insignificant for this project. The mill head is good side to side but slightly off from front to back. The only way I know to fix that is by using a tiny shim under the mill base. This is the column mounted mill that is independent from the lathe bed.? I used a solid carbide end mill. The ¡®chips¡¯ are fuzz and ¡®worms¡¯. No melting, just sticking together made the worms. Easy cleanup.? <IMG_5462.jpeg> And with the fuzz wiped off the part: <IMG_5463.jpeg>
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Testing the draft message functionality
This is a test. Line one, go to draft¡ and, by clicking outside the message or back on ¡®messages¡¯, the system saves a draft, which CAN be edited. third edit¡ over and over, help file says this will last for 2 weeks. This should be the way I always post because I always want to edit. happy I am¡?  And it saves images and all, test successful. now press send and you can no longer edit it.?
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I made a couple of items from PLA+ and of course got warping on the bottom of them. That caused me to dig out my poor old neglected Unimat. After finding enough parts to be able to use the mill, and fiddling with setup, I have successfully machined the plastic. These parts are solid, 8 walls, 6 top and bottom layers and 100% infill.? There are lines on the surface, small and insignificant for this project. The mill head is good side to side but slightly off from front to back. The only way I know to fix that is by using a tiny shim under the mill base. This is the column mounted mill that is independent from the lathe bed.? I used a solid carbide end mill. The ¡®chips¡¯ are fuzz and ¡®worms¡¯. No melting, just sticking together made the worms. Easy cleanup.?  And with the fuzz wiped off the part: 
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Yes, paint spray cans seem to be more common in the UK than the US.
But the question is: what is the standard color code for the Unimat 3?
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In the UK go go your local automotive paying supplier and look at RAL
codes (German standard colours) I beg you will find a match and they
will then be able to supply a rattle can.
Nick
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Further to what I just sent.? Somehow, somewhere, in all of this Unimat discussion over time, we should have the automotive paint code number to match the Unimat 3.? Can anyone tell me what this code is?
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I will try to tell you what can be done, but you must be able to spray, coarse tip airbrush or similar.
I called our True Value Hardware.? You get a Benjamin Moore DTM(direct to metal) alkyd oil-base paint, low luster or semi-gloss.? The paint comes in quarts if you want.? Take your Unimat 3 to the store.? They have hundreds of color chips, one of which will be very close to what you have on the lathe.? They will tint you one quart.
Here are 4 pages of the white family:
One of the brighter whites should do the job.? An additional benefit is that if you have a cooperative paint person, they can slightly change the tint if you bring it back.
Now for automotive spray paint in cans:? it is available in various "white" tones to match cars that have been made.? However, they want to know your model and year.? Or the paint color code.? Maybe if you can find an auto paint store, they can match your lathe or come close to the color code.? But you have to find a store that will do this.
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Does anyone know what color white was used on a Unimat 3 lathe?? I am trying to locate something that is close to original and available off the shelf. If I take a sample to a paint store it is possible they can scan it to mix up a custom batch but would rather prefer to purchase it already made (Spray Can or Pint, Quart). Searching the Forum and found reference to Zinc White. Most of that is sold in tubes for an Artist use as a base. The closest match will work fine for me as the unit is not going to be an authentic restoration.?I tried to post this on The Unimat 3 Forum two weeks ago and it is still waiting Moderator Approval.?
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U3 table saw attachment: video
From Machinist Matt, a very nice video about the Unimat 3 table saw attachment.?
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Re: Self-made accessories for my Unimat MK4.
Nice work everyone. Inspiring¡
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Re: If your Unimat SL/DB was misaligned with the headstock, how did you fix it?
Ha!? These were a set of weighted valves, made out of zinc, found at a Habitat for Humanity Restore store. I manually hack-sawed the large cuts, not too bad. A bit gummy for drilling. A test for lead came negative.? I would have melted and done casting instead, but it can't be done at my place.?
On Thu, Mar 21, 2024, 10:14 AM McKee, Don {Quaker} < donmckee@...> wrote: Juan:
WHAT are you hacking those parts out of?? It looks like it has taken a bit of sawing to get those pieces.
Don
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Re: Self-made accessories for my Unimat MK4.
#Carl#
Very nicely made and a good solution to make full use of the bed length.
Bruno
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John Entwistle
Bruno