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Indispensable. I bought dozens for the student shop I managed for years. Eventually I discovered that the Clockwise branded ones are without a doubt the best value. If you use cheap ones and get

Aaron, “Good” standards should be constant and be able to be reproduced wherever one may need it. Celsius degrees are the same size as the earlier centigrade degrees and are not arbitrary. A

Hello David: My 1973 Unimat came with one, and it was the first thing I took off. It is nice to have the spring return, but with the spring there is only 19mm of stroke available. Take it off and you

I saw a headstock spindle spring for sale on ebay. My old cast iron unimat did not have one when I got it and my manual does not show one either. Were they only on later models and are they a

This what i was thinking Peter

I took a machine shop class in high school, finished the class and graduated from high school right around 50 years ago. A bit over 15 years ago, I bought my first lathe. One of the Chinese

What about forming a valley in the centre of the 5mm form tool. Sort of back rake on the front and sides. I've seen this on some parting tools

Hello Bill: Thank you, appreciate your saying so. 8^) Best, JHM

Oh, so very well done! Congratulations! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by:Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?SEMPER GUMBY!

My experience was otherwise, on the loading of cassette tapes, and my friend that used my TRS-80 to get a job at the local Tandy Computer Center said that they were a great deal faster and more

Hello Peter: You are right, taking cuts from different angles will help a lot. Just because a big lathe could form cut this pulley in one plunge, doesn't mean you must. Lots of lighter cuts are OK.

There's a more than one way to skin a cat, just that sometimes you have to push the envelope a bit more than would otherwise be comfortable. I was in the exact same spot, did not want to spend absurd

Thanks both, good advice and sounds like a mix of steps would be the way forward. Roughing out, followed by left / right cuts before a final, slightly deeper forming cut. I appreciate that the U3

Hello: Ahh ... I see a pattern becomes visible. Not only Unimat 3s. Yes, that's one way to do it albeit with a huge disadvantage: any further adjustments will always require partly dressing the brass

[Even more off topic] My recollection of loading from a cassette is that it often took several attempts, and even when successful, the programmes (using the archaic British spelling) did very little

All of what you say can be improvements.? The root problem is a lot of cutting surface all at once on a large diameter in a small minimally powered machine. Going in at two different X positions as

I had the same problem with my Emco Compact 5, an overgrown U3. I found that the brass I made did not eliminate the play in the carriage, so I filed about about .004" from the part of the gib that

Use a hacksaw blade to remove some of the material before you use your tool, and that might help. Might also be "Interesting" trying to get just the right depth... ;) perhaps used a hacksaw blade, or

As part of my 24v re-motoring exercise I’m making new pulleys from aluminium. I’m not finding it easy to machine the groove for the belt and would appreciate any tips (apart from ‘buy them

Hello: You're welcome, hope it was at least it gave you an idea as to where you stand. Make no mistake: everyone who comes across the problem notices it as it is a nightmare to try to turn even a